Wo1f

mine's not arrived yet but ive ordered the vortex too. Worth it all day long in my opinion. never loose zero because it's real steel and the warranty is fantastic. Why sped £50 on an airsoft replica that'll either break or get shot out. I can shoot out a vortex and they'll just give me a new one, no questions asked.

【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】
Taran Tactical Innovations 2011 JW3 STI Combat Master
WE base
steel
QPQ
 

 

 

 

finish
 

finish
 

finish

They’re very snappy. Can easily use them in woodland the range on them is that good. 

Picked up a little purchase from CamoRaids.
 
TM MP7A1 GBB - Small bit of fettling to add a Maple Leaf GBB Autobot Hop Up Rubber 60D & EdGI 5.98-6.03mm Brass Inner Barrel to give it that little more poke!
 
Will be used for night time raids, using the PEQ & Tracer to compliment a set of Nods, being able to cover distance at a pace & fairly lightweight as well
 
Standard additional mags so I'm not caught short!

Made a few changes ready for the National Airsoft Festival

A TM FNX, some mags and a Vortex Crossfire Red Dot. Shame I’m gonna have to wait an unknown number of weeks until Defcon gets their pre order in stock...

No no no, this all just wrong! What is going on! 🤯🤯🤯

I have mag envy 

Hhmmm i see some pople having issues with their MWS, i will count my lucky stars then.
 
Took my TM MWS out on Sunday and my oh my di it impress.
 
Yeah Using Green Gas she was shooting 330FPS using .020g BBs and around 295FPS on .28g BBs.
 
Stock Hop chamber, hop arm, hop rubber and bucking the MWS was sending BBs so far i was losing sight of them.

My Vortex optics was so on point that where ever i pointed it at was guaranteed a hit!
 
Gas in mags were good enough for full auto dump (not that i do this, i use mostly semi).
 
Lock back worked everytime, i must say iw as mucho impressed and plan to take her out again.

For those interested, this is the inside of the flamingo bucking 

@Cipher-032 I’ve got one to go in my mp7. 

Stay tuned!

Congrats @peeved87!
 
Also thanks for reminding me to add mine to the club.  Standard for now but will be DMR’ing this (hence the short dot scope) once I’ve established a base line performance so I can measure the impact of each upgrade.  Going with the 370mm prommy .03 inner, modify tan bucking and the super nub or the Laylax strike hop arm, then probably a PTS CMR M-Lok 12.5” handguard.  Might do more and go longer in the future.
 
First impressions of the stock gun are overwhelmingly positive, absolutely love the sound of this and the kick. Definitely can never go back to an AEG again. Skirmishable GBBRs was the main reason I got back into airsoft, and holy crap has this gun justified a very expensive month kitting back up.
 
Groupings have really impressed me, but then I’ve been out of the game for a few years so my memory of stock aeg performance isn’t so sharp. I’ve been able to hit a 2.5x2.5” target at around 18m 70% of the time (from prone, 5 seconds between shots, no bipod, not the steadiest of hands) which I thought was pretty sweet.  With the hop barely dialled on it’s slightly over hopping .28s at about 20m.
 
Same with build quality, no wobble anywhere but the stock which I always think is pretty acceptable for a big plastic movable part and the Colt trades are beaut. Opening it up has been easy and I’m actually feeling pretty confident stripping this thing down and upgrading it myself (something I’ve never dared do with my AEGs or even my GBB pistols previously).
 
FPS - on propane I was getting around 310-315fps. Abbey Predator Vertex shooting between 287-291fps.  A few mags have gone through between testing though so maybe the slight drop is everything bedding in.
 
Overall, so into this gun and can’t recommend enough for anybody looking for their first GBBR (and from what I’ve read of others experiences, anyone looking for a GBBR generally).
 
Worth pointing out that this thread is largely responsible for me getting this gun as it gave me the confidence it wouldn’t just be endless trouble shooting, inconsistent shots (aka impossible to DMR) and relentless breakages like GBBRs from when I played before. And the Eagle6 takedown YouTube videos likewise were real helpful in giving me the confidence that I can deal with whatever this gun throws at me!
 
Can’t wait for my first game with this! On that actually, I’m having to wait for my mags to arrive from Rainbow 8 as nowhere UK based have them in stock! Apparently this is because TM no longer produce them, instead they’re calling the Type 89 mags Type 89/M4, which sucks because they’re a more bluey, satin finish rather than the matt grey finish.

Time to join the club I felt after studying the forum for a while. The sixG nub, how long does a response take normally? Hoping to get one to use with the newly released, flamingo bucking. See how they fair together 

As a lot of threads end up with one of us recommending the Tokyo Marui MWS, and i get PM's asking about it, i figured I'd start a thread to keep all of the information in one place. Here i plan on covering a general overview of the gun, as well as upgrade parts, general maintenance and tuning. If anyone else wants to share any information, guides or even gameplay with their MWS, here is the place to do it. With that being said, lets get on with it.
 
I've had my 2  Tm m4 GBBR's for a little over a year now, and they've got through dozens of changes to get them where they are today. Out of the box they are beautifully finished and boast impressive performance. I bought my first one from Zeroone, who price matched it for me. At the time the gun set me back £430 and the magazines £35, but they have risen quite a bit in price in most places. 

The gun is incredibly well finished and sports a Cerakoted receiver. Before opening the box, i didn't get what the big deal was about Cerakote, but that all changed after using it over time. The finish is VERY resistant to the hard life I've shown it, and is far more scratch resistant than any paint or anodization on any other gun I've owned. The two I have still don't have a scratch on them. At the rear is a standard m4 stock, which does its job with little wobble, but isn't the nicest one I've ever seen. The railed handguard is very solid and nicely finished with all of the correct numbered markings on the rails. From there you have your usual front triangle iron sight which DOES NOT have a sling attachment at the base.
 

The magazines hold 35 BB's and have a Cerakoted shell to keep them from scratching easily. They have very recently started coming with silent fill valves, but are mostly the normal kind that hiss when filling and spray liquid propane when full. Its worth noting that the valve sits at an angle to the baseplate. One modification i would highly recommend to do is the "green gas mod" which involves removing a long zinc tube from inside the magazine. This allows more gas into the magazine and upping your shots per gas fill dramatically, with some people reporting 150+ shots from a single gas charge. As a side note, i have started to just cut the zinc tube about 1 inch from the base instead of removing it entirely. A video showing how to do it: 
 
Chronograph Results:
using blaster .20 BB's and green gas i got around 298 fps with a deviation of 2FPS. yes, you heard that right, " FPS. This thing is incredibly consistent!
 
Important information:
The inner barrel is 250mm on the 10.5 " CQBR and the 14.5" carbine, meaning on the 14.5" outer you can fit a much longer 370mm inner barrel. The Hop up adjustment dial is similar to Tm pistols and can be located inside the upper receiver by locking the bolt back and looking down the magwell. Due to the way the outer barrel is cut, it's not possible to fit an aftermarket rail onto the gun without one of two things. A barrel adapter ring (PTS, ORGA and a couple of others make them and usually cost £10) or A dytac outer barrel, which has a wider lip, as shown below. Dytac on the left

 
First shots:
I took it down to the 20m range at the First and only shop and loaded it up with .28 blaster devils. They had multiple targets there, but i focused on the little spinning targets at the back wall. The orange discs must have been no more than 1.5 inches in diameter and i was hitting it virtually every time with the iron sights. So far, very impressed with the accuracy. So much so, I treated it to a new dress!

 
First internal upgrades:
After speaking with Dave about the gun, he explained that the gun wouldnt hop really heavy weight BB's with the standard nub. because it was hollow and squished when applying hop pressure. To remedy this he machined me a great little nub out of brass. Isn't it beautiful!?

This meant i could now lift much heavier BB's increasing my range and accuracy even further than the already impressive stock performance. Using this new nub and GEOFF .32 bb''s i was able to get the bb's out 60+M with a flat trajectory. They were making a 1.5-2ft grouping on the plastic bales as seen in the video below.
 
I have SOOO much move to cover, including barrel reviews, customs mods and a DMR build, but its 5;30 am and i need to be up in an hour, so we'll continue this tomorrow
 

Hello everybody, I upgraded my rif with parts recomended the most here, i.e. Modify TAN bucking + SuperG brass nub. I also added tightbore barrel MapleLeaf 410mm 6.01mm.
 

 
I never found any exact measurements of the difference in fps and projectile energy while using short and widebore barrel vs. long tightbore barrel. Therefore I decided to have a nice evening with chrono and several weights of bbs and measure it myself.
 
I used chrono AIR CHRONY MK1 (https://www.anareus.cz/detail.php?id=12868). The web is in Czech language but it basicaly says that this is high end and precise chrono. Measurement were all taken indoor with air temperature around 22 celcius. Humidity was around 45-50%, therefore indoor average. I measured velocity in m/s and then converted it to fps with conversion of 1m/s = 3.28084 FPS.
 
I used several weights of BBs. These are: BLS precision 0.20g; G&G white 0.28g; Madbull 0.40g; Novritsch 0.49; BLS Precision 0.50g.
 
First I used vanilla/stock rifle and took five shots of each BB. Then I did the upgrade, i.e. change bucking, nub and barrel, and again I took five shots each. You can find result in table hereunder. In green cells there are mws stock shots and in red cells there are shots after the upgrade. 

 MWS table.xlsx
Edit: Please ignore measurement of the fisrt shot with BB Novritsch 0.49 taken with stock MWS. It is a typo and I dont remember the correct measurement. 
 
What I find interesting is this:
 
1. I feel like I dont have enought fps in stock/vanilla rifle. If I remember correctly some people said their stock rifle has around 330fps. Can anyone confirm this?
2. Increase is not what I expected. I though it would be 20% and more because it is tightbore barrel which is 170mm longer than the stock one. Has anyone different experience?
 
3. Increase in fps and especially in energy is more significant with heavy weight BBs.
 
4. Consistency is very good. However I havent seen prolonged measurement in any other rifle and I took only 5 shots.
 
Please feel free to comment. I am very interested in your findings and opinions.
 
Thanks!

you're doing it wrong, you are meant to start arguing with the person that posts your advert. XD

Isn’t anything over 1j a firearm over there? Tell the police it’s a firearm. That’ll get the ball rolling 😂

Sold the gun that started this thread the other day. Miss it already. 😭
 
 

Sold the gun that started this thread the other day. Miss it already. 😭
 
 

Sold the gun that started this thread the other day. Miss it already. 😭
 
 

That is a lot of money when really you only need this.....
 

 
PS I love the 18yr warning about this not a f**king toy
 

Some pics on the way, lower is pretty much done now, was somewhat of a hassle to fit the selector switch. Used the pin from an iron airsoft MWS ambi selector and grinded it to the same specs as the RS selector switch pin. Worked out great, some minor filing on the trigger guard was required to align the holes for the screws, nothing major though and not visible when mounted on the lower.
Now its "just" the rethreading on the buffer tube thread left
 
Some parts on the parts, the modifications on the selector pin and then the lower. 
 
Finally my MWS DMR build (semi locked high FPS), fielded for the first time this weekend and it sure did give the bolty snipers a run for their money xD





 

Maintenance:
Now before i get into what i do, id like to point out that how i do it and what i use are not the only way of doing things. People use all sorts of different oils, grease and sprays to get the job done. As long as it's suitable for the job, all is well.
 
Items:
Wurth High performance dry chain lube (Teflon/ptfe spray)
Wurth brake and chain cleaner
Airsoft Engenuity cleaning rod
Silicone oil
paper towels

 
Step 1:
Remove the magazine and split the upper and lower by popping out the body pins. From there, remove the charging handle and bolt carrier group.

 
Using the paper towel, wipe them down properly, including the channel on the underside of the charging handle. This is what mine looks like after one game day and a bit of testing.

 
Step 2:
With the moving parts cleaned, we need to move onto the upper receiver. There is no point cleaning the moving parts if the walls they're sliding against are still dirty, so wipe down the inner walls of the upper receiver as well as the grove that the charging handle runs in.

 
Step 3:
We're going to finish off the cleaning of the upper by cleaning the barrel. I use an Airsoft Engenuity Optirod because it holds cue tips at a slight angle instead of cutting little strips of tissue, but any will work just fine.

I go in from the muzzle end and stop before the hop up so i don't disturb it or damage it in any way. Because i use propane, i don't get silicone oil or other crap all over the hop rubber. If you do, take a cue tip and gently push it inside and twist. you don't want to apply any sort of pressure because you're at risk of rotating the rubber ever so slightly or damaging it. 

 
Step 4:
Moving on to the lower.. I have two processes that i do to the lower. One after every game, and one after every 5. The only difference is on the 5th clean i spray out the lower with brake/chain/carb cleaner. Because of how tight everything is packed in to the MWS trigger box its hard to completely clean it without removing it from the lower. with carb cleaner it will blast out all of the deposits and degrease the trigger mech completely. what will happen is the spray will run into the gaps and drip out of the trigger hole in the bottom of the lower. The spray evaporates in the air, so after about 30 seconds it will be bone dry, leaving behind a clear trigger box. For the daily clean, i just wipe down all visible surfaces with a cloth/ paper towel. In order to keep a reliable bolt lock, push the bolt release and clean the faces of the ZET plate when it lifts up. if you get crap between there, it can slow and not lock back reliably. Especially running green gas, which cycles the gun faster.

 
Step 5:
Everything is now clean, so we can start with the lube. There's lots of options out there but one thing that's important is this... SILICONE OIL IS NOT FOR METAL ON METAL PARTS. over time, silicone oil will make metal bind and is the exact opposite of what we want to do. Silicone oil is important, but only for sealing components. I use Wurth dry chain spray for 2 reasons. If it can lubricate and stand up to the temperatures of chain/sprocket contact on a 200mph motorbike, it will do just fine on our bolt moving 8" forward and back. The other reason is it isn't messy. it dries in the air and leaves a light film on the surface so it isn't going to get thrown around the inside of the gun. so give it a good spray and give it a few seconds to dry.
 
Step 6:
Back to the lower.. If you're using a spray like me, put your finger over the hop up entrance in the lower receiver and give the inside a quick spray with the lube. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY LUBE OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE HOP RUBBER. If you're using a grease or oil, this is less of an issue (until you fire the gun and it throws it all in there anyway)
 
Step 7:
Spray your BCG and charging handle with lube. Pretty self explanatory so i didn't bother with a picture. What i do is hold the bolt by the nozzle with my thumb covering the underside of the nozzle. this stops any lube going into the nozzle chamber.
 
Step 8:
Last thing to do is lubricate the sealing parts with silicone oil. This step is only really needed if you use propane, as green gas should keep the sealing cup on the nozzle adequately lubed and i do this every 5 games.  Pull the nozzle out and place a couple of drops of silicone oil between the nozzle and the BCG. On WE guns you can pull the nozzle out far enough to apple lube directly to the o ring, but you cant on an MWS without removing the nozzle, so this is as good as you can get. Like i said though, if you're using green gas, this shouldn't need to be done often.

 
Step 9:
Put it all back together because you're done!
 
 
 
 
 

Realized I never posted a picture of my MTR16 here.
Just ignore the odd colors at both ends.
Sadly they have to be painted this way due to legal reasons, as its demanded by law.

I can’t even describe the joy this brings me 😬