Ian_Gere

PM Airsoft-Ed for the full info on the ICS L85A2.

Have you considered a South African Assault Vest? You can fit all your requirements in there and more.

If you have a bit of money to throw at the whole sport/hobby, you should also consider what kind of loadout you prefer. If you want to wear yank camouflage, an M4 with an EOTech or aimpoint T1 on a high mount (the height of current fashion) will be a good choice. If you want to wear MTP or DPM, then the ICS is the best L85A2. But if you want to wear something more exotic, you may want a more exotic gun to go with. Bear in mind however that if you choose a G36 of some flavour, for eg, you will need specialised webbing to carry mags because they do not fit well in pouches designed for NATO STANAG mags (like an M4 or L85 uses). But we can advise you on what works or doesn't.

It's a cheap Ultrafire with CREE XML T6. Search on ebay.com rather than .co.uk because you'll get it cheaper bidding against yanks than brits and they come from China so postage isn't an issue. There is a model which uses 1 x 18650 battery also, but this type which uses 2 is a fucking monster. The strobe function really is something to behold

No we don't. But we should!

ICS L85A2 is the best of those choices in terms of how good it will be out of the box. If you want to tinker with it however, you need to be aware that ICS use many proprietary parts externally and internally, so costs can spiral. The G&G CM16 is our default recommendation for first guns, because they are cheap, pretty robust, hold their own in the field, and are easily upgradeable. But they are also common as muck and you may prefer not to have the same gun as 5 people sat nearby in the safe zone. IMO TM guns are overpriced for what you get. If you want the same thing cheaper with more power, get a JG G36 and upgrade the hop rubber to a Prometheus Purple (soft) or Maple Leaf 60 degree.

Impressive! But yeah, the lamp is a pig. Round would be the obvious choice, but since you have the option to mill plastic, maybe something shaped like a slice through the handguards and barrel, but smaller, would go with the aesthetics even better.

I've carried mine using an original AK sling with both the strap through the original sling point and the clip attached to it and then feed the loop of sling through the frame of the stock. It doesn't rattle like that and it gives you plenty of options for how to fit the sling over your body with the stock open or folded.

One of these days you're going to come face to face with this:

Coffee needs it's own thread!

There's a pub/hotel on the Isle of Wight called The White Mouse which has an amazing collection of whisk(e)y, if anyone ever fancies trying a whole load of exotics in one night.

The finest drop i've tasted is the Talisker, but i'm done these days: my liver is fucked so i can't have even a teaspoon full. The Talisker has a really deep and multi-layered flavour, but I'm not into putting water in it - just sip it in tiny amounts at first, so it just absorbs into your tongue and then inhale through your nose with your mouth open. But once you get going, lash it down. Your whole upper body seems to become infused with flavours of it and the buzz off it is nice too - a silly drunk, not maudlin or aggressive. How to actually describe the flavours though? Words like "peaty" don't have much meaning to me - I wouldn't know peat from compost, but there are tones of earthiness to it and wet trees in rain near the coast, like storm rain, ozone maybe, and complex sweetnesses, sort of like how black bread tastes sweet after chewing a mouthful of dark green salad. Gordon Bennet I wish I could have a drop of it again I'll have to get some for when I know i'm going to die.

Yeah, no cameras allowed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ism2I3HCGU oh, and how could i forget...?

:wub:

TBH many of their designs are better than TM's or were done first. But yeah, it is a ball ache.

Well ICS do their own wood kit and they also do a polymer RIS version, so you may be able to buy that as a separate part. But the once famed full RAS kit has been OOS for ages.

ICS externals are proprietary. Without a Dremmel only their stuff fits - what are you thinking of?

Well, already they emailed me to say that my PayPal payment to them didn't clear. This was true but I have no idea why; I had overdraft available and my bank account is linked to my PP, plus balance on the credit card which is the primary payment method of my PP account. It just didn't happen. No problems when they sent me an email with their PP account deets. Spose I should be glad that they dealt with it on a weekend rather than left it until tomorrow.

Blind as well as daft, me.

Only ordered it yesterday so i dunno, mate. But the confirmation email was in French, so I'm hoping that despite being called aegcartasia.com they are EU based, like taiwangun.com being Polish.

Have a look at this: G&G UMG 50rnd mags €18 each or 3 for €51 - shipping for my TT-33 mag was about €5.50

I think it would be quite nice if gas guns did ignite their propellant at the muzzle - maybe something like a turbofan with lighter flints set in it, enclosed in a circular bearing type race but with a rough track, hidden inside the flash hider*, obviously with a hole through the centre for the BB to pass through. When it spins sparks would exit the muzzle with the propane and as it mixes with air, ignite - instant muzzle flash. *It would need to be hidden inside pistols and the slides would need to be redesigned to pass back over a wider assembly than just the barrel to allow GBB, but not impossible to do. Ignited clouds of propane do not set fire to things unless they are highly flammable, unlike the flame from cordite for eg. A tiny battery powered heater built into mags to maintain operating temp in the cold and muzzle flash - I'd be converted to GBBR's instantly.

Good video - i usually use the crocodile clips of a helping hands to grip the other side of the pin i'm soldering, which then acts as a heat sink, but i'm going to start doing it his way. Notice that he didn't actually do it as, probably, all of us were taught, ie heat the component then let the solder melt onto it, not apply the solder to the iron. There was already a bit of solder on each pin and he did just heat that until it melted and apply the solder to the iron and molten solder simultaneously. That's how I do it, but of course you need to get some solder on there to begin with - I use a tin of the most hideous flux (I have to keep it wrapped in tissue because the oil in it migrates out through the gap between lid and round tin, even though it is fitted very tight) - just a dab on each pin so it boils and cleans the surface when the pin is heated, then i apply the solder simultaneously to the tip of the iron and hot pin and the boiling flux allows the molten solder to flow over the pin and form a nice shiny joint.

Title edited to comply with our policy on 'what it says on the tin'.