Ian_Gere

A humble Element M95 spring new for £4.20 posted - fleabay.

Black SAAV 3hrs 10mins to go £12 posted

I'm calling a halt to this.

I run drop leg dump pouches and holsters with belt webbing. Having the dump pouch tied down stops rattle and the whole post box lid design is more secure for anything you drop in them than open top dump pouches. I find adding a non-elasticated strap to the top of drop leg pistol holsters stops them flapping around and that's the only disadvantage to them - having the pistol exactly where my arm naturally reaches to makes drawing faster for me than crooking my arm to reach for a belt mounted pistol, but then again I do have long arms... I have only had to quick draw once and even though I hadn't practised it, i surprised myself by drawing and shooting 2 people before they could raise their AEG's from muzzle down, across the chest, carry positions. It was at NAE13... Deltas are slow - all that oper8orness weighing them down

Project box 88x55x20mm & push button latch switch for my next (sneaky) project also about £3 ~ fleabay GFC F2 Tornado short shaft motor - £12.50 posted ~ fleabay Strichtarn T-Shirt - £8 posted ~ sfrankish on fleabay So, with my strichtarn kecks, the braces i got last week, and a strichtarn respirator pouch to dump used mags, that makes a loadout just need an M56 helmet for the full effect, but i'm not paying 30-odd quid for something that was made in the hundreds of thousands and has no special interest for collectors. DDR Webbing Belt - £7.79 posted ~ etsy.com

As you can see in the vid above, the ROF is a bit silly, so I added some extra Deans and cable so I can remove the MOSFET easily, which adds a little extra resistance and brings the ROF down to around 18.5r/s.

No no, i said the stock gearbox can handle 11.1V even when using fat wire and a MOSFET - should have said it is an active breaking MOSFET - the airfet type from ebay. My point being that it get's the full whack from a Turnigy Nano Tech 25-50C battery and copes just fine. The CM02 gearbox is a beast. here it is

No complaints from me about the CM.028 range. I still have my .028U and although she is no longer stock, it's only recently that her performance has actually beaten what it was out of the box - she was my first and i busted her learning how gearboxes work But the CM.048 range is better looking and feeling, strips easier, and maintains the performance of the legendary hop with a beast of a gearbox - needs no upgrade to handle 11.1V, even with fat wire and a MOSFET.

If your concave cylinder head and piston heads do not match up perfectly, that is a bit of air which also fails to be expelled... @its most compressed too, so that will have the effect of losing a lot more volume than would seem to be the case. Those heads are sold in pairs - i have seen them singly though and thought, "WTF?" for exactly this reason.

Magellan МПА-23 in "Night Python" Not a million miles from Kryptek Typhon, eh? €91 posted / not bad for a state of the art Russian uniform, but it'll be the new year before it arrives Oops, forgot to add: 2 x 51mm diameter x 5mm thick polycarbonate lenses for my PBF gas mask - £14.95 posted

Silent piston head is supposed to be used with a silent cylinder head - the cylinder head has a small concave sorbo pad which causes an airbrake effect as the last smidge of air is forced from the outside rim of the piston area past the interface of the protruding piston head and cupped cylinder head - it's not all about shock absorbtion by squidgy faces. TBH i'm surprised by your findings of 20FPS drop, but as you say, the percentage of piston travel does add up to around that.

For tip top range you will have to go the upgrade route no matter what gun it is. Lonex are reputedly very good for M4 hop units, but I personally don't rate their hop rubbers. With that kind of money you may as well go the whole hog and buy Prometheus Purple (Soft) - add a RATech hop cushion for accuracy. A very smooth inner barrel will mean that what you gain from good hop, you don't loose due to instability in flight, so go Raven or PDI. Then you need to get your FPS both consistent and close to your site's limit. Choose an air seal nozzle with an O-ring and grease the base of the cylinder head spout so it seals well against the nozzle O-ring. Best to get a double O-ring piston head, but whatever you use, grease the piston head well. I use CT-2 Teflon grease and haven't found anything better. Choose your spring to suit your barrel diameter and compression - for eg a double O-ring piston head can add up to 30FPS, depending on how bad the seal was before. If your site limit is 350, you want to be shooting consistently @345 +/-2, so that variations in chrono, temperature, and humidity are covered. People love to claim that it's not all about FPS. Obviously it isn't, but if you have a good hop setup and put more power through it, you will get more range than just a good hop.

A link to the item is customary when asking for opinions. Edited your title to comply with our policy on what it says on the tin. Punctuation may be going out of fashion, but it certainly makes reading posts easier. Many people will not criticise, they will just stop reading. Nothing good to say: say nothing...? Here's a shit sandwich: like it or lump it. Back again? Here's another shit sandwich. Here's another shit sandwich. Here's an...

40mm aluminium TV aerial pole about 35m away from my back bedroom window - use the sniper technique of opening the window and firing from well back inside the room so i can't be seen from outside. It makes a nice 'ting' when hit and being able to hit it within 3 shots is my minimum requirement for accuracy from my guns. This may sound quite bad and, trust me, i'm not promoting it as a good option, but it is out over rooftops, and there are no windows facing my way, so nobody could actually be hit by any BB's, but i expect that many people, including the police, would not see it that way... Sticky targets are good for pistol practice - not so much for AEG's, especially on full auto... although that is useful for proving that all BB's shatter, no matter how expensive they are.

Ahhhh, now i get it. Yes, you're right.

Yeah, £4+P&P for 10 spare strips vs 1 box of Cook's Matches = 8 strips for £1.50-ish from my local Co-Op. I quite like the look of that rail mounted striker thingy, but I'm not paying £16 for it!

You could seal the metal with a clear lacquer, but the surface will not look as nice as oiled steel. Oiling up is hardly a laborious task anyway and you only have to do it once in a blue moon - it's not as if it will get hot enough to evaporate/burn the oil off.

Welcome to the forums, cozi23

Oh yeah, the fact that i can sew definitely casts aspersions on my sexuality but £30-ish posted from fleabay and you can't go wrong: ...you need needles made for sewing jeans to cope with webbing and self threading hand sewing needles make it easier to tidy up the loose ends in a way which will not come undone; few pins; you should get a seam ripper with a machine but even if you have to buy one, they're not dear, and they do work much better than scissors.

You may have good points to make, SD, but I'll never know because reading your posts taxes my patience. The reason we have arrived at a commonly agreed structure for sentences and punctuation is because, once you know it, you can say anything to anyone who also understands the format, with the minimum of ambiguity, confusion, long windedness, etc. I lost you just after you suggested using a thinner piece of wire to actually connect to the switch in a V2 gearbox and connecting that to 2 joined 16AWG further out. This may well be an easier way to accomplish the task, but it introduces a higher resistance section to the circuit. If you physically cannot fit 16AWG all the way to the switch, you may just as well use the thinner wire for the whole circuit - electrical resistance works just like water through a hose - if you constrict the hose for one foot out of 24 say, it is the same as 24 feet of thinner hose when it comes to how much water can get through. If you cannot fit 16AWG all the way, you could consider using 2 lengths of thinner wire side by side to get past a constricted space - next time i open up my Scorpion I'm going to do this for the length of wire between the brass connectors from the grip to the motor, because there isn't enough space between the gearbox and receiver to fit anything thicker, although TBH the ROF since i fitted a Pico AB and 7.4V LiPo is such that the resistance of the thinner wire may be all that's preventing the motor from burning out! I am looking to upgrade the motor though...

This fleabayer supplies Lexan type polycarbonate and says he will cut it into circles - I've just asked him for a quote for a pair of new lenses for a Russian gas mask 51mm diameter x 5mm thick (way thicker than necessary, but the originals are double glazed, so replacements which fit exactly into the fittings will make the job easier. 2mm thick will stop BB's.

Somebody has one in the classified ads > parts & gear > i forget which > parts or gear.

Even though this is pretty simple, I'm sure there are more of you who like me have thought, "I just don't need even 2L of water on my back for a game and any weight I can shave off my loadout is all to the good," but when faced with the prices of smaller hydration bladder and pouch combos, or just the pouches, have thought, "Bollocks!" How can the smaller ones be so expensive, eh? It's not as if they a miniature and requiring additional craftsmanship or anything Anyway, I managed to find a 1.5L bladder at a sensible price here which comes pre-fitted with a Camelbak stylee removeable bite valve and tap (which are £8 on their own), so that you can decant the water into a cup, or a hand (to rinse a BB fragment out of your eye without scratching your eyeball for eg). I then bought a simple 2-3L size molle bladder pouch from here - what I wanted was lightweight and OD and you can't get much simpler unless you dispensed with the outer molle and the insulation pocket. I wanted the opportunity to fit a piece of old camping mat to prevent my body heat warming the water, but that would make sewing it a little less than completely straightforward. It's a simple enough job to turn the pouch inside out, but then you find that the edge seams are bound with 20mm black webbing - great for the quality of the item and its longevity, but a bit of a ball ache to undo with a seam-ripper. I then had to cut the angles which allow holes in the bottom of the insulation pocket, so that any water which may get inside can run out of the bottom, and refinish them with the bits of thin edge binding which were originally lower down. Then it was a simple job of cutting the webbing seam binding to size, pinning it and sewing the new seams: ...ignore those straps with the metal hooks - they're from the webbing it's now attached to. I then wanted an admin panel on the back as it's no good having patches and no velcro to attach them to. So I used a couple of layers of the pouch leftovers, some UBACS elbow neoprene, bit of 20mm OD webbing, and some velcro: ...big enough for an NAE patch, but most likely to be carrying an AF-UK one (as it doesn't fit neatly on the front of the webbing). Turned out remarkably neat for one of my creations so yeah, forget blue bladders, or £50-odd combos, and make your own!

There are 2 MOSFETs which do pre-cocking: the BTC Chimera and Burst Wizard claim it for the new BW3 of theirs. I have one, but my PP-19 Bizon 2 has an electrical fault of some kind, otherwise I was going to fit it this weekend. I'll need to get to the bottom of this fault first, because you have to tune them, by trigger pulls in the right timing/order, so that instead of active breaking causing the cycle to complete and stop, an adjustment advanced in a few millisecond increments allows it to run on long enough to cock for the next shot. There is also a tolerance to judge to take account of falling voltage - if BWKK MOSFETs are anything to go by, I'm not expecting it to be at all easy to get right, but you can see why I'm not even going to bother until there's no possibility of an electrical fault... But yeah, I've seen that L85 gb in action - Mark Walker has one, for those who know him. It's impressive.

Yeah, if you tell me how big they are I'll certainly check for you. Bear in mind that if you really like the modern look of fast mags, you could replace the tight rubber bands they come fitted with. Some green/black/tan 25mm elastic stitched into loops would be one way of making them exactly as tight as you want, however you may also need to alter they way the built in Malice-style clips which attach them to molle lock at the bottom, because they attach to the forward half, so the maximum that the very bottom opens up is about 5mm. I've just tested them though and the malice-clips fit behind he rubber as an alternate way of locking them to molle.