Ian_Gere

Bear in mind that, when you blow down the nozzle towards the piston head, the main thing which will determine how much air you can blow is the attitude of the piston head O-ring - it is not static: it only seals completely when the piston is moving forwards so that friction against the cylinder wall drags the O-ring back so that it seals behind the ports which lead to the holes in the piston head face; when the piston is moving backwards, friction drags the O-ring forwards so that the ports allow air from behind the cylinder head to fill the cylinder through those holes in the piston head face. If this did not happen, until the piston head reached any cylinder window, the only way air could fill the cylinder would be through the nozzle which, since it is restricted, would create negative pressure inside the cylinder, adding more load to the motor compressing the spring. If the O-ring is nearly all the way back and there's a decent amount of grease, then blowing down the nozzle may well be enough to push the O-ring back so that it does form a seal, as if the cylinder was moving forwards. But if not, blowing may actually push the O-ring forwards, as compressed air trying to get behind it expands in the space between the ports and the cylinder wall. As for your problem, I dunno - 1st thoughts were the interface between nozzle and rubber, but the problem should not be replicated when you switched to another rubber unless there's something wrong with either the nozzle itself or its travel. Even if you've accidentally lost an O-ring from inside the air seal nozzle, it shouldn't result in such dramatic FPS loss. And that is the clincher really: 50-100FPS is dramatic, thus it must be inside the cylinder. How much grease do you have on/around your piston head O-ring and coating the cylinder wall? If not much, try some more (preferably CT-2 Teflon grease). I don't think grease alone could account for 100FPS, but CT-2 is money well spent anyway and if you see a 20-30FPS increase from it you'll know that the rest is probably a mechanical problem in the same area.

On average I'd say yeah, less than a paintball hit, but a pinch? Dunno - it depends how hard you pinch, or where on the body, assuming you mean grabbing a bit of skin between thumb and forefinger (rather than, say, getting a bit of your finger caught in a piece of machinery so it causes a blood blister)... but it's not really equivalent anyway, because I've only ever been pinched by surprise. I mean, even while being tickled, so the physical contact isn't a surprise, the sudden change of tactics makes the pain unexpected and thus worse. When you're skirmishing your adrenalin is amped up, so even hits which break the skin don't bother you anywhere near as much as they would if, say, you sneaked into your brother's room and shot him in the bare arse after he'd just emerged from the shower, for instance (which action we, as a responsible forum, would never condone nor encourage since neither he, nor possibly you, would be likely to be wearing eye protection). However if you did and could somehow convince the hapless yoot to indeed wear eyepro into the shower, the warm, freshly scrubbed, buttock would very likely sting more from a 0.2g BB @270FPS from 5m than it would from an average non-bruising pinch. Even in the middle of a skirmish, a similar hit to ungloved fingers would sting enough to make most people yelp and/or swear, but onto a sleeved arm, you'd be far more bothered by the in-game consequences of being hit (the walk of shame or yelling for a medic) than the momentary pain. ...this hit was from a 0.2g BB @365-70FPS from 6-7m It resulted from a BB getting between a loose lower face mask bouncing away from my goggles opening and closing a gap as I ran. It did sting, but not much - less than a pinch, but it didn't half shit me up because it was so close to my eye and I could feel the wet blood running down my face. The pic was taken in the safe zone around 15mins later, after i had wiped my face with tissues and water in the field, so it doesn't really demonstrate how much it bled. I mean at worst there were multiple points where it was dripping from my beard. After the initial WTF moment had passed however, the blood itself was the only issue preventing me from just regen-ing (a marshal didn't want me carrying on until the bleeding was under control) and getting straight back into the assault on the fort, which had been stalling a bit until a handful of us went in on a banzai mission which proved enough to turn the tide, so my team were then hitting the enemy so fast that it sounded like the only thing slowing them was having to wait for dead-men-walking to get down the 2 single file staircases to the upper level, so the last few die-hards could be rooted out... all of which i mention for context, ie my adrenalin was pumping good stylee! I literally barely felt any pain even though the hit pretty much destroyed the dermis layer so I have a permanent BB sized crater scar... BTW, this is not me giving it the Billy Big Bollox - anyone who'se been into airsoft for a while will tell you the same: we've all got our tales of the real zingers that either left permanent scars but didn't hurt, or contrarily left no glory but nigh on crippled us at the time

The answer to how much it will hurt is: it all depends on where you are hit, how much adrenalin you have in your system, and how much of a wimp you are. If you get hit in the teeth at that range, even by a low power gun like 270 FPS, it could knock one out, which will probably hurt quite a lot, even if you are well excited and it doesn't hurt so much at the time... but then again, a hit to a T-shirt covered chest under the same circumstances may barely register in the heat of the moment. The thing is, airsoft is an adventure sport/hobby, and truthfully if your brother is concerned about getting hurt by something which hundreds of people take part in every weekend (hence cannot actually be particularly unsafe or you'd have seen headlines about it), he's probably too much of a wimp. Then again, you may consider it a good-brotherly thing to do to expand his horizons...

Well there you are then - get a new motor!

Not as badass as crossing your wrists with a torch in your left hand and your pistol resting on it in your right...

I thought that was intentional camo, not a real clegnut... yer dirty barstid!

Do you have one, Esoterick?

Baofeng UV-5R - £16.56 USB Cable for Baofeng UV-5R - £1.72 Cloning Cable for Baofeng UV-5R - £2.68 Z-Tactical U94 PTT for Kenwood/Baofeng Radios - £9.20 each with free postage, from aliexpress.com I've included the url's because there is a time limit on some of these prices which is counting down... worth a look. I wouldn't have bothered, but the Bolsheviki have decided they're the way to go and at these prices it seemed churlish to miss out.

So his point was that he was lied to, so that makes it alright for him to lie to you - what a prick. For me: Molle Folding Dump Pouch in OD - 35zl 6B7 1M Helmet Cover in SS Leto or Partizan as they would have it - 39zl 6B7 1M Helmet Cover in Berezka - 39zl Braces in SS Leto / Partizan - 29zl +34.60zl for postage from redzone.com.pl

I know. I said so earlier in my post than the bit you quoted Thanks for that clarification. That is my point: it is styled... beautifully.

How about glass for the barrel? Some kind of heat treated chemistry stylee kit maybee?

Can acrylic be milled in such a way that the scratches don't make the surface translucent rather than transparent? Because to see yaw in the angle of backspin would need good transparency, i think.

Keep us posted! He sounds like someone who could get at least part of this mission done. Is he into airsoft yet and if not, why not?

Oh yeah, I love H&K - for starters the USP frame is the best shaped pistol there is for man sized hands and the trigger guard size allows for ease of use even in heavy winter gloves. I've just recently finally managed to afford a KWA Umarex USP .45 Match and I love it! It's a bit of a lump for sure, but the balance is perfect - the centre of gravity is exactly where the grip meets the chamber frame, so it naturally sits horizontal on your middle finger under the trigger guard. The trades are excellent too, which is why the "Match" logo is such a shame. I mean it has to be said... it looks like it belongs on an Argos special beard trimmer, ffs! I'm planning to take it off with acetone and a mildly abrasive Dremmel polishing pad, but I dunno what will be left / I may have to take the compensator off and completely repaint it, which begs the question, what colour? Flat black seems an obvious choice, so if it wears on the edges the original dark grey will not show except very close up, but then again, even though the real steel is a precision pistol, it looks workmanlike... so how about black and yellow chevrons? I also love G3's, especially the old style ones with wooden furniture, although I've never liked those blobs on the mags. Not such a fan of MP7's - the styling doesn't seem to fit with the rest of their design philosophy. I mean it's just utilitarian. For sure there is a strong streak of Bauhaus to their designs so yeah "form follows function", but that is not to say that styling ought not to be beautiful (and by that I don't mean the kind of beauty that you have to search for; the kind which you can only appreciate on an intellectual level by understanding an object in its wider context), merely that pointless ornamentation, frippery, not only may impede function but also obscures the potential for truly stunning expressions of things' purposes merely in their silhouette. The "cooling fins" under the P.45 Match compensator are a classic example - there is no need for them; the compensator does not touch the barrel, so it will never get so hot that being able to more quickly radiate heat should be a functional consideration, but of course weight is, nonetheless cutouts could be any shape, or H&K could have gone with something similar to those protruding barrels with funky looking muzzle brakes, or just extended slides around the barrel alone, that have become popular in race guns recently, but let's be fair now, they look silly. That 1/2 chevron shape which the H&K compensator evokes points forward - it looks like what it does: projects force forward... My next best fav of theirs is another classic example of this philosophy: the MP5 SD6. It looks like frogman's gear: compact, tubular, easily gripped, and that is precisely its function - if it wasn't for the fact they use V2 gearboxes I would already have one... However the MP7 lacks a 'vision'. It's like the rear 1/2 was intended to be tidy and robust, but the front 1/2 was intended to be used very carefully, or perhaps used once and thrown away - I mean wtf is that poxy flash hider all about? It looks like a few mags on full auto might actually burn it away! And the 2 halves are just butted together - they don't even share the same horizontal line underneath and it's only the top rail which seems to unite them, a generic feature which comes from a different design house; then the grips just poke out perpendicular to the receiver, like afterthoughts... I love the look of that HK51B, but let's have it right - a belt fed gun with such low mass would be very difficult to control, even firing 5.56mm rounds - it's just an exercise in "we can" like that story that does the rounds on every engineering campus the world over: "X" country with whom "we" share a long standing rivalry has a group of top engineers who develop a drill bit as thin as [insert something cutting edge sounding (when i heard it back in the early 80's it was a human hair, but these days it would probably be something like a sperm tail)] and they send it to "our" good but not best engineers for evaluation, who promptly drill down the centre of its length and send it back. Naturally they don't write "fuck you" on the accompanying documentation, but the intention is clear regardless... Oh yeah, and let us not forget the MG 3, which is a modern version of the MG 42 (and yes it's not an H&K original design, but apparently they took over the manufacture). Perforated fuck, gentlemen, that must be hilarious to shoot as well as looking TDB! Anyway, here's my P.45 Match, who has yet to be named: [shit i can't get my pics to upload to postimg.org / imageshack / or facebook grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!] i'll add them later - had to use the simple editor on fb (t'internet's fucking broken) & now i can't get them to insert b/c the pic url doesn't end in .jpg when did that change? wtf is going on? has the world been hit by a meteor or summat?

Modern Berezka BDU size 56-5 for... wait for it... $59.80 (£40.17) posted lol! ~ fleabay Long Sleeve VDV Telnyashka size XL (54) - £11.99 posted ~ fleabay cosmixx_one

Have a look at this eBayer's stuff. I dunno if you know, but there were differences between bits of gear that you would imagine were generic across the whole Red Army - for eg VDV (paratroopers) carried a 4 cell AK mag pouch rather than the army's 3 cell, plus a plastic 1.5L water bottle & cup in a handy pouch rather than the army's 0.75L aluminium canteen in a pouch which is a right pain in the hole... What are you still looking for and what size are you?

What Soviet loadout are you going for, mate?

It's not just the GB though Tac, it's the whole thing. For eg clear barrels and 17Kf/s would let us examine exactly how BB's behave after hop up and find out what length of barrel is ideal for each type of hop unit design. If we used BB's marked like those roundels on crash test dummies we'd be able to see exactly how much the backspin ideal of rotation around an axis perfectly perpendicular to the effect of gravity is forced to yaw by individual hop up components and how much this is corrected/exacerbated by different diameters and lengths of barrel.

Exactly - animations are based on the theory of how it all works - to see what actually goes on, in the kind of detail to see whether changing the shape of the spring guide, or using linear vs non-linear springs, causes/gets rid of a momentary slow down of the gear cycle and what this does to extension of the nozzle and consequently how that affects the feed of BB's, with/out tappet plate delayers, needs high speed film of real components. Of course such things don't matter for your average AEG, or for those who decide to get uber high cycle rates from brute force &/or HPA, but for those of us who would like our suppressed AEG's to actually be quiet for eg, or for those of us who would like to be able to build a high spec AEG and know that the parts' interaction will not prematurely wear out one or more components, real data is the only way forward other than the common current approaches of 'if it costs more it must be better' and 'the more combinations you try, the more chance you have of finding the sweet spot' both of which are deeply flawed methodologies...

Absolutely Chris, but let's also be quite clear here: if you had 2 kids, your current income and your current obsession with all things airsoft, they'd be wearing hand-me-downs or converted loadouts and eating beans on toast / egg'n'chips for a treat... as would mine so in the grand scheme of things, as others have said, a mag full of BB's, even an AK hi-cap, is bugger all. I seriously doubt that there are many, if any, people who end up asking for BB's because they cannot actually afford the hobby/sport, even if they happen to have no means to pay for them on them right then and there - I know i once had to blag site owners because I'd forgotten to go to the cashpoint and didn't have enough for even the green fees on me - thankfully Steph was prepared to accept that even though i am indeed a pikey at heart, chances were that i would indeed pay up next time.

Absolutely! Wide bore barrels for starters! But i'd also like to see the guts of an average AEG set up in a clear polycarbonate rig so we could see full auto fire at 17K frames per second, so we could see exactly where each component is in relation to each other at any given moment. Plus I'd really like to see how the various shapes of spring guide affect the rate of spring compression and if that does anything to the timing of tappet plate delayers (the various shapes of which would also be nice to see @17Kf/s).

For sure in airsoft body armour is for ikkle girls, but practicality aside, the body armour from the film "Aliens" is the absolute classic TDB of looking like you're there to get some... Edit to add: you can get ex-police riot gear shin guards on ebay occasionally. Not quite as aggressive looking as those in the OP but still pretty hardcore. Oh yeah, and what about the belt rig Jack Rackham from "Black Sails" wears? But for ease of airsoft doability, you can't get much cooler than:

Yeah, but notice that to get that speed there is some pretty dodgy pistol handling going on, as regards where the trigger finger is as the gun goes live after a reload - I'll bet there were a lot of accidental discharges in practice! I like the thing of keeping a semi-auto pistol up in front of your face as you reload so that re-acquiring the target requires no thought, especially as once something is practised to the stage where you do it on muscle memory, any thinking has the potential to trip you up completely - like walking downstairs while speaking on the phone and finding a child's toy where you're about to tread... Tread anyway; try to side-step; maybe just angle your foot onto the side; go to the next step down; kick it aside? Chances are if you think those alternatives through, you trip, but just going with whatever comes instinctively would be ok. But of course we are often also trying to make sure our empty mags do not get lost, so dump-pouch-ing them adds time to our reloads. Still, I have a new pistol on order which has 29rnd mags and i will have 4 of them and, even if things go as well as I hope they will regarding my health, it will be a couple of weeks before I can get a game in, so I think I'm going to have a go at learning some speed shooting/reloading...

My bank account has recently just gone into the black for the first time since I took up airsoft... and that's because I've been so ill that I have had to seriously consider whether I'll ever get back into the field, so not only have there been no green fees but no new stuff for several months. Now I have a promising Dr. consult coming up, I've just dropped another few hundred quid and I don't actually know for sure whether I will get even one game out of it, let alone return to the sport! Anyway, yeah I have often lent/given BB's, speed loaders, batteries, connectors/adapters, charger, gas, CO2, tape, tools, meds/1st aid, sweets, biscuits, drinks, melee weapon, mags, spare gun, sling, vertical foregrip, ghillie veil, pyro's, primers, etc. away - partly because I would wish people to treat me the same way (and it has happened - only once for BB's, but nonetheless... I expected to be sniping, but the assault was failing for lack of leadership, so I had to go in to a well defended fort with my pistol and 2 17rnd mags), but more importantly to win - if our side loses a shooter, that gives the enemy an advantage and fuck that! Regarding Team Fluffy Unicorn, I want actual fluff on the patch!

To lose 20-25FPS though... Hmmmm! A wide bore barrel needs a whole new approach, because you are going to need a stiffer spring to maintain BB velocity, but to be billy badass as a sniper you must absolutely minimise any loss of compression so that your spring choice will be the lightest it can be, so that cocking it while keeping eyes on target does not become difficult/impossible, although some rifles' cocking handle design and position, relative to how you shoulder them, makes this easier as does sheer arm strength. For eg, these days my arms are pretty weak, but at last try I could cycle a Well L96 with a 150 spring without losing my sight picture, yet even though I am far more practised with my SVD with a 135 spring (which has an 'extended' cocking handle), I have to reacquire my target after every reload - my arms are long and the geometry is such that I just can't quite complete the last bit of bolt travel to lock it without shifting my body position (I did try adding 40mm to the length of the stock but it hasn't helped enough - I was going to try adding more but I've decided to try modding a CO2 kit to deliver a UK site legal FPS 1st). This may well result in needing to replace many more parts, possibly even the entire compression chain... Cutting down a barrel is a possible alternative, however to lose that much you will need to be quite brutal and of course if you can't re-crown it properly, you'll have ruined it. Bear in mind also that a good quality long barrel can do a fair bit to even out instabilities in BB spin introduced during hop up by sub-prime parts/poor design, so lopping a 3rd off that length may impact accuracy even if it is re-crowned well. I would suggest that the numbers are working for you for a simple approach - drop to a spring designation 10 below that which you are already using, which ought to get you to about 485FPS and then use washers on the spring guide to pre-tension the spring until you are getting about 494FPS at room temp and average humidity. That will leave you enough wiggle room for chrono variance and differences in heat and humidity on site.