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MrTea

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Everything posted by MrTea

  1. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For sale
    • Used

    Selling a Tokyo Marui Mk23 Magazine that's leaking from near the base plate. This was just a spare magazine so i'm selling it. Please see the comment 1967PF44 made for difficulty of fixing. £15 includes tracked postage and paypal fees.

    £15

    Hartlepool

  2. Have you solved the issue of your tester rounds leaving behind the residue I told you about marring the floor of my local indoor arena? I'm almost out of the magflash rounds I bought and I'd love to get some more. The "large" flashbang tend to work the best when I bought some.
  3. Only ever had it happen to me on the A&K Masada DMR that I've been building. A&K being a Chinese company appear to use different specs where ML rubbers don't work well. It never caused feeding issues just wildly inconsistent FPS; about 50-60fps difference across 10-20 shots. After all that of me acting like a smart-ass thinking i'd fixed it, the issue returned when I went to show it off. I grabbed my other P90 that's in a storage bag (which just so happens to be stock) and watched the nozzle as I fired it. That nozzle never stopped in the feed tube/port/window once in semi-auto where the CYMA P90 would regularly be visible, as can be seen in previous pics. Knowing that it's an SHS part the previous owner has installed, I had ordered a 20.75mm and 20.7mm nozzle so I tried that next and went straight to the 20.7mm nozzle knowing the SHS nozzle was 20.8mm. Took a full mag and fired it in full auto with no miss feeding. I'm hoping, praying, that I might have gotten to the bottom of it. Across 15 shots in semi the FPS is consistent at just over 300fps on 0.2g BBs with less than 4fps difference between highest and lowest reading which is surprising because the compression parts feel pretty poor and it's still using a plastic piston rack. I'll have a dig around for an M100 spring to get it closer to the limit and i'll re-try using the ML Macaron rubber to see if it still causes the feed issue.
  4. As an interesting bit of info. I was picking peoples brains in different places and someone suggested just trying different hop rubbers before you rip open the gearbox again. I went back and grabbed the standard hop rubber and a prommy purple in addition to the ML Macaron already in place. It looks like with the ML Macaron, the feed lips are a tad too long and are protruding into the feed 'channel' enough to cause feeding issues. The first pic is basically how both the stock rubber and prommy purple rubber look, they're almost impossible to see as the lips are a tad shorter than the ML ones. I tested it by firing half a mag in semi auto (which worked fine) and then half a mag in full auto. The full auto struggled to keep up just because the gun is cycling that fast but never stopped feeding where I had to fire in semi or a small burst to get it to feed again. I could probably remedy this by using a .1mm or .2mm shorter nozzle while not preventing a proper airseal from being formed. Something to test going forward. Just got to get this into a skirmish and see how it performs. It's annoying I ran into this issue again and didn't think about it sooner. Had literally this exact thing happen when building my DMR.
  5. I know how you feel. Missed that M14 on ActionHobbies boneyard, an ARP556 has appeared for sale, a FAMAS come up for sale... I love guns that aren't widely seen.
  6. There used to be two A&K Masadas on there, both at the same price but with different problems. They've actually sold one. IDK who's pricing their boneyard but I want a bit of what they're having.
  7. They're, usually, pretty rare to find floating around, you may find someone willing to sell you theirs but then you'd probably be paying over the odds. I'd say I got lucky when I got both of mine as they were cheap and not in too terrible of a condition. BespokeAirsoft have a A&K Masada in their boneyard which has a snapped stock release, missing selector and is electrically dead and they want £150 for it which is a joke IMO. If you don't want to fix anything and just want a RIF that works, then i'd suggest going for the ICS if you really want that Masada/ACR style of rifle.
  8. PTS Magpul Masada is made by Ares and has many unique parts IIRC. If you want a Masada with more generic V2 gearbox parts you can try and get your hands on an A&K Masada. I own the carbine and SPR/DMR version and i'll say, you'll 100% need to upgrade the hop unit, it's hilariously shit and the stock nozzles are prone to breaking/cracking. AirsoftPro and Wiitech make full hop unit replacements however, in my experience, the AirsoftPro one is the superior of the two. I'd also suggest getting the 'loading nozzle' and 'air nozzle' to pair with it, also made by AirsoftPro. My carbine was a boneyard Masada that was completely dead. I went through the effort to rebuild and fix every little issue with it, including the wiring. Just waiting on the externals getting a custom paint job as it was extensively damaged. You can pick up A&K Masadas pretty cheap in most places but they're becoming increasingly rare and it's pushing prices higher plus spares are getting harder to come by. As stock the motors, compression parts and hop are absolute garbage. As for the ICS CXP-APE, I can't comment on the RIF performance as I don't own one but I know ActionSportHobbies has a few different version available between £400 and £450.
  9. Pretty sure my local CQB place says shotguns are to be 3 BBs only IIRC. As for overshooting or semi-ROF I think it's; if you don't want it done to you, don't do it to someone else. If you're going to be a dick, you'll be treated like one so don't abuse ROF. If it takes one BB, then use one. Accidental overshooting happens from time to time but it's easy to tell who's doing it on purpose. That aside, i've seen one person running a shotgun at my CQB place. They shot me at almost point blank. It sucked but no more than your random HPA hi-capa bursting 3 rounds into you.
  10. I thought that. The lighting looks different on the paper to the rest of the image. Strange.
  11. It appeared to be when I was testing it. I have a CYMA replacement (current one is Guarder) coming in so I might swap it with that and see what, if any, difference it makes.
  12. I used the CYMA mags it came with and some brand new King Arms ones. Mis-feeds on both.
  13. Bought from another user on here who says it was only firing a BB every 2nd shot. I've re-shimmed, re-greased, replaced tappet plate, new hop rubber and nub. I've now got the RIF firing at the proper speed it should be for 13:1 gears, I believe the motor was adjusted too high, binding the gearbox causing it to fire sluggishly. Currently it has SHS nozzle, SHS piston, SHS 13:1 gears and Rocket high torque motor. The gear set already has a sector delayer on there and it has a new tappet plate so i'm not sure what else to do on the RIF itself. In my testing I found that it appeared to be feeding fine in semi but as I got through the magazine, it began to mis-feed. In full auto, even with a full mag, it struggles to feed. Do I need to buy some stronger springs for the mid-cap magazines so they can keep up with the RIF? I know I can get Maple Airsoft super feed springs but I don't want to throw £15 on three springs if the mags aren't the issue. I will note however that when I emptied the magazines, the BBs didn't race out like they usually do on my other mid-caps, it was noticeably slow. If the gun is simply too fast, I have some 14:1 gears I can try out next to see if it slows it enough to allow feeding. Ty.
  14. Never had an issue with the .25 tracers I bought.
  15. Dan Wesson however you'll need to buy power-down shells as the standard ones, I believe, fire over the 350fps limit. Personally i'd kill for a mk4 webley
  16. LMAO what a wanker. Don't think there's much else to say. Yurp. Still waiting. Almost had an S&T T21 the other week but the seller backed out
  17. As a bit of additional information; the G&G outer barrel isn't threaded either (at least, mine isn't) so no tracer units or aftermarket muzzle devices. I'm deciding between getting the outer barrel threaded by a someone or taking a 1" barrel extention, machining it out enough so it slides over the outer barrel which is how the stock flash hider works, it's then pinned in place. If I knew this before getting my L85, i'd probably get an ICS one. How do you deal with the height-over-bore? I have all my guns set up so that, in CQB, the BBs land where i'm aiming even at the full length of the arena. With my L85 i've found that the optic is so much higher than the barrel that I simply cannot get that to work, even when adjusting my optic to it's lowest position, i'm still aiming off target to actually hit it. I've dug out a small RMR style optic hoping that, because it's much lower, it'll negate this issue but i'll have to test it tomorrow.
  18. A lot of the cheaper headsets do not have noise cancellation/reduction capability and are communication devices only and are powered through the PTT and radio so you need to be careful what you're buying. Almost got done by someone selling a cheap headset as a more expensive noise-cancelling version. You only get one set of ears. Are you willing to risk damage to them for the sake of <£100? I keep an eye on used markets waiting for a "cheap" pair of comtacs to turn up that people miss and I can snipe.
  19. He's a tosser, pure and simple. I think you'd be hard pressed to be permenantly banned from one or two fields without having to reflect on your behaviour, never mind 40+ that will publicly disclose he's banned from their site(s). The real count is probably way higher. He's also attempted put a "bounty" on a Youtuber who made a video about him wanting to know their name, place of work, home address etc. etc. despite that Youtuber having 100x less subscribers than him, with the intention of doxxing that person. That's how fragile his ego is. Additionally, every time anyone levels any valid criticism at the way he acts when playing, or how he plays, airsoft he just labels them as "snow flakes" and "woke gone mad" etc. etc. and his audience of edgy 12 year olds lap it up. This list was compiled in 2022. It's probably longer already. It also includes some of the offenses he's alleged to have committed.
  20. No worries, just shoot me a message. That said, we're looking at trying Armageddon that's opened outside M'Boro in place of NTAC as an outdoor site if you've ever tried it?
  21. I think we started with about approx 16-20 people last night. By 2000 a few guys packed up and left so we were down to 12 which was fine. We had a quick TDM after the break and moved onto best-of-five main street. It was about 2130 everyone was packing up to go. Fridays are usually much busier and less people leave mid-way because most people don't have work the next day.
  22. Sometimes when my shift rota allows. Recently it's been the Wednesday or Friday nights. I've only been to one or two Sunday sessions. I worded it poorly, let me try again. I walk to a doorway and I know there's another player to my right hugging the wall on the outside of the building. He's on my right at a 90 degree angle from me. With the AEG I built, it's so long I cannot have it shouldered and aimed forward and move through the doorway at the same time while aiming at the player, even when putting the stock over my shoulder (or under my arm) to reduce the length. I have to change to a high or low ready which takes the gun off target. With the MP9 I can keep it aimed forward and move through the doorway already aiming where the player is. Basically rifle too long, wont fit through doorway while horizontal. MP9 short, fits fine. It would appear that cannonfodders impressive artistic interpretation has got it covered.
  23. The AEG I built using the Mk18 style handguard uses the 12" handguard because I couldn't get the 10" (or 7") version at the time for love nor money so I had to use a 12". With it, I can't lean through a doorway and aim at a 90 degree angle where with the MP9 I can. Like I said sub-guns are definitely looking like the best way forward for indoors play. It doesn't bother me that much as the AEG is unbelievably good when I use it outdoors so I don't plan on changing it. It's tight but not so much that you'd notice at first, but the doorways feel slightly thinner than they should be but without measuring it, I couldn't say They've rethought that 'no grenades' rule on main street because it just turns into a grind fest of two people constantly tagging each other back in behind cover with no way to clear them out.
  24. Another quality session at District 23. Went to try out my L85A2 to find that my Sotac EXPS3 wouldn't adjust low enough for the BBs to actually land within the reticule. While trying to adjust it, it seems I turned the adjustment screw way past where it should have went and broke something and it's stuck all the way down. I didn't feel any resistance or a stop... it's like it just unscrewed from whatever adjusts the reticule. Didn't want to risk it with my HW S1. That was annoying. The issue with the height over bore being so big is that i'm literally not looking at the target when firing. To make things worse, because G&G are special, they made their version of the L85A2 outer barrel unthreaded so I can't fit a tracer to just walk my BBs onto the target and I have to use the optic. I have a smaller, and slightly lower, RMR styled 20mm RIS red dot that i'll try next time but in the mean time if any L85 owners have any suggestions, i'm all ears. Once I realised the L85 wasn't going to be an option I changed out to my MP9 as I had such fun with it last time and this time was no different. Quality bit of kit, I think i'll be using sub-guns at indoors sites from now on as it's just so much easier to move through the tighter spaces. Trying to move around doorways with my Mk18 with the 12" handguard is a pain. Many grenades were thrown during a game of 'main street' and the enemy team apparently had some cases of brown trousers.
  25. Does anyone have experience with, or know anything about, the BO Dynamics P90? It's King Arms OEM and they upgraded it with a MOSFET but IDK what they used exactly. Can't seem to find much of anything on the internet about this and their own website doesn't have it listed, I assume it's because they're that old. I can only assume it's a simple MOSFET to protect the trigger contacts and let you use 11.1v safely rather than having any special functionality. All i've found about the King Arms P90s is that they're probably the best of the P90s before you get to Krytac and G&G.
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