Floperator

Proper jealous. Are you going to be skirmishing it?

Couldn't have someone else suckling at my bladder pipe, I'd feel like one of the guests on Eurotrash.

Sketched a couple of Obi-Wans while sweating my bollocks off on the tube yesterday

Silicone (preferably grease) has its place; in minimal amounts on mag valve o-rings. If I had to use something for the slide and rails, probably a very light application of high molybdenum content grease. It's great for high pressure/friction applications. But if you're skirmishing with it then you have to stay on the ball with keeping your gun clean, because any wet lube is going to attract dust and dirt which will then act as an abrasive.

Well they're mainly shooting kids and journalists, so they can afford to go with a smaller calibre.

Sounds good to me. If only the London Met were as conscientious.

Yes, fully agreed that there is a lot of scope for people taking the piss with pseudo-DMR builds, hence why it would be better IMO to encourage the culture of changing your playstyle rather than the gun. We could probably do without DMRs (meaning semi-auto, high FPS builds) entirely in game terms.

If you want to run at higher FPS and with MED yes, but there's nothing at all stopping you from playing as if you are a Designated Marksman with any gun, even at nerdy stitch-counting events. If we want to compare it to Real Life, most actual soldiers would probably resemble an airsoft DM more than they would the rest of the suicide squad...

This came up tangentially a while back, and I'll just paraphrase what I said then; that the 'DMR' role - and it is more a role within a group than a personal strategy - is more a state of mind than about what particular gun you are using. My 'DMR' setup is a bog standard Lancer gen3 AEG with an ACOG on top, only internal mods are a new hop rubber and nub. I rarely stray into full auto, take considered shots, try and back up my team where marksmanship is required. The fact that I still have access to the Fun Switch if I happen to need it is all to the good. If you don't want an MED - and I don't! - then the world is your oyster, you can pick from literally any AEG as long as it meets the criteria for accuracy and your own personal aesthetic and ergonomic choices.

I put a 3 litre platypus bladder in the freezer saturday night and took it to work yesterday (mainly for the commute rather than when I'm at work), it stayed icy all day and I actually took it to bed with me last night as a cold water bottle. Wrapped it in a t-shirt and just laid it on my chest. No bursting or splitting, or on the other one that's in the freezer now, though I made sure not to fill it 100% full.

Should those wires be sitting there in the magwell between the mag and nozzle? Did you buy this new or 2nd hand?

Mine works! 👍 Now to buy 1500 tracer bbs for a hypothetical night game that I might not play for 6 months...

Too hot for client work, not too hot to dick about with my own little projects. Today I made a packing piece out of brass plate for my FNX, to go around those awkward exposed tabs:

Also, clean that horrible silicone oil off of everything except gas sealing o-rings.

Someone needs to petition Nuprol or whoever to make them in 'bingo wing' sizes

Finally got this today, and so far have been pleasantly surprised. It came in the same little plastic hard case as the vism sight I bought, which is a nice touch I think, along with a picatinny mount, a universal(ish) mounting plate, a plethora of different mounting screws and a trio of allen keys. It fits in the fnx mounting space but I'll need to make a plate to go in the gap between the slide and sight because of the little tabs. It co-witnesses well with the open sights, and past 15 feet the parralax error is negligible, getting better with distance. Not more than about 15mm at 15 feet. It has 5 brightness settings and is somewhat brighter IRL than it appears here (it's a bit bright out here) Dot is very crisp, even without my glasses on when most other dot sights look like smeary shit. Don't all rush out and buy one because I need to put this through its paces in a skirmish, but so far so good. Maybe it's a different supplier to the one that @rocketdogbert used, maybe their qc got better, or maybe I just got lucky. Caveat Emptor and all that. Have to say I think it looks the business though, very Modern Warfare. So if you just want the look and are not really a person that *uses* sights them I suppose you can't go wrong.

Try 'scragging' the spring first. You'll need a long bolt or threaded rod, a nut and some washers. Put the spring in and compress it to maximum, leave it for a day or so. You may well find that it drops that 10 fps. Shouldn't work on a good spring but airsoft springs seem to be pretty shite from what I've seen so far.

In fairness to the Lancer Tactical, my gen 3 hasn't put a foot wrong so far and it's been skirmished about 8 times this year. Reliable and robust, at the moment it's running just fine on 7.4 Lipos. Last session but one I stacked it badly and the gun took my full (and not inconsiderable) weight on the end of the barrel and filled the birdcage with mud. It didn't even lose zero. As a starter gun I can't fault it so far.

That no battery or motor will increase power by itself. You only get more power by: Eliminating/reducing air leaks and inefficiencies from piston seal and hop seal Increasing the swept volume in front of the piston Increasing spring strength (assuming you have haven't reached the maximum possible power for your given swept volume/seal/barrel arrangement) Lengthening, or shortening, the barrel. Context dependent. Changing the battery and motor will simply affect the rate of fire and usable shot count. If you're doing any upgrades or modifications at all, your No1 diagnostic tool is a chrono, which will tell you whether you are actually increasing or decreasing power. 'Feel' of the shot cycle is a terrible metric and often counterintuitive. The harshest, 'most powerful' feeling guns are often just running inefficiently or at the edge of tolerance for the internal parts. Back in the day people used to cram massive square section springs in air rifles, and because they were hard to cock and thumped like hell when you shot them they thought that they had made their airgun super powerful. The truth is that usually they had ruined the gas efficiency of the gun, shortened its operational lifespan and, ironically, often made it less powerful.

That's very cool. When I have the time I like to draw and paint, mostly portraits. What I've done most recently is usually on my instagram (@fourwaterreed) but here's a few old ones:

Apparently it was their first night game in 2 years - the owner said he may put more on if it goes well, which it seemed to.

Ran it last night for the first time and no complaints at all, retention was good and I didn't find the button release awkward. Didn't have to think about it at all, which is what I look for in a bit of kit. Certainly good for the price. Not sure if it fits the makarov or if it does if it will be as good a fit as the FNX, but Amomax have a list of compatible guns on their website. This is the AM-UH model btw. You'll need to get a mounting plate if you want to put it on molle, it comes with an IWB pancake thing.

My first night game at Reforger last night, had an absolute blast. First thing about night games is that it all hits a bit different when you've already done a days work, I got there about 5:30 (half hour early!), and left at half past midnight, and this morning now I'm back at work I feel like I've gone 5 rounds with Mike Tyson. But in a good way. Humidity was very high for the first part of the evening and I sweated more than I ever have in a day game, but luckily it cooled down a bit and a breeze picked up once the sun had gone down. Was interesting trying to put into practice some of the tips I got on here, mixed with my own bright, and not so bright, ideas. First thing was that, yes, red filters on your gunlight are good for preserving your night vision, but not so useful if every other player is running very bright white lights... I'll be taking the filter off if I do it again. The little trick with the glowstick taped to the acog fibreoptic worked a charm, but I didn't seal it off as well as I could and there was some bleed through from the edges, which may have accounted for one or two of my deaths. Very glad I bought some Bolle Pilots to use rather than my usual mesh goggles, I would have struggled to see anything at all through mesh. I did try wearing my prescripition glasses under the Pilots but it was just far too humid for that and they steamed up completely before I'd even left the safezone. I had an idea to take some cheap cob stick lights and put them forward of our position to silhouette the enemy, but this was a bit of a miscalculation on my part; it just meant that the other team avoided that area completely, flanked us and shot me in the back. So I used them in the wrong way but the principle is sound, just use them to funnel movement rather than light people up per se. Identifying teammates was perhaps the trickiest thing - for the last game we decided on a call-and-response so that if you saw someone and weren't sure you could confirm if they were a teammate, with some attendant risk to yourself. I still had a shameful amount of teamkills over the whole evening though. The night itself was run very well, no dramas or misbehaviour at all, hit taking was good. We played some new and different games - one an equivalent of that 'wink murder' party game, we also did some 3v3 and 1v1 in the village killhouse, winner stayed on. Overall would definitely do it again, with the caveat that I had to leave work two hours early to get there and this may not always be possible, saturday night would probably be a better night for it.

If you can get a top and bottom rail for it, AR carry handle on top and an M203 below.

If you still have them send them to me if you want, and I'll have a go at fixing them. Mine looked like sealed units but they weren't sealed enough for the determined 😉