Rory2004

No.
 
Whilst you will get a few more features on a full Perun Hybrid, you will have to open up the gearbox to fit it and the V3 version involves gluing bits to the selector plate. Easy enough if you've worked on a few guns and are happy to take it apart, but unless you have a spare gun or two (in case you cock up), I would suggest you leave well alone.
 
The ETU++ is simply plug and play - and will give you 90% of the features of the Hybrid in a smaller package than the stock G&G ETU.
 
You won't gain much switching out the hop units/rubber/nub/barrel on the higher-end G&G guns, they are pretty decent stock.
 

if you can get try and get it ranged before you do anything. On full auto power limits you should be able to get accurate fire out to 50/55 metres and lobbing 60ish metres (only full auto AEG i have seen shoot further is an M14). so if your gun is getting that sort of range there is not much more to squeeze out of it range wise.  

Perun ETU++ on the right. G&G mosfet & fuse on the left.
 
I still need to tidy up the wires with a couple of cable ties - just need to find them first.
 

A Perun ETU++ is pretty much an essential upgrade to an G&G ETU-equipped gun.
 
Fitted one almost immediately after getting a G&G CM16 SRS for my son, really good bit of kit. Once the ETU trigger unit switches die, I'll replace the whole lot with a Perun Hybrid or whatever equivalent available at that time.

It replaces the stock ETU and inline fuse so I found it made battery fitment easier. Not home at the mo so can't do a comparison, will have a go later for you.
 

This. I always used .25s till I fed my MP5K some .3s and I got a big improvement in range

Have you measured what range you are getting? Have you tried a few different weights of BBs. You may end up spending money to only get a few extra metres in range

If you want more from a MOSFET than the standard offering you can swap to a Perun ETU++ pretty easily. It's outside the gearbox so is literally plug and play, I just had to remove the stock but I'm not sure about the AK as that's front wired so it may be a couple of extra screws.
 
I play CQB so have done mine, primarily for the pre-cocking but it also meant the battery connector changed from Tamiya to Deans.

If you are looking for a range upgrade try a new hop rubber and maybe a bucking. I like the maple leaf macron buckings but have a look around and see what you want, everyone has their own preferences and most of the aftermarket ones that are decent quality will work. Your hop unit and hop rubber are responsible for probably about 90% of your range and accuracy. Barrels can sometimes make a difference if the stock on is bent or broken or really low quality, but most of the time they are fine and not really worth the upgrade price/performance wise. If you just want to then I would suggest get a stainless barrel like the ZCI inner barrels. They are cheap, good quality and stainless is a lot more resistant to damage/wear than brass or aluminium barrels. 
 
if you value reliability then I would suggest leaving your gearbox stock. Unless you are unlucky or have a serious amount of wear on the gearbox then stock will be most reliable. If something breaks then you could look at upgrading internals, but if you have never done it before you are more likely to make your replica less reliable rather than more reliable. 
 
If you want to start learning to work on your airsoft replicas, I would suggest getting a second cheap gun to do it on. Leave your best gun stock as a backup and mess around with something you can afford to break while maintaining a stock reliable gun. You don’t want to miss out on a whole day of airsoft just because your only gun broke. In my experience it doesn’t matter how well your gun is built something will go wrong at some point and you will be grateful for a reliable backup gun. There is always the temptation to push everything to the limits if you are ‘upgrading anyway’ you might as well go for max performance…this inevitably leads to a less reliable gun (don’t ask me how I know 😂) 

You do have to factor 20% VAT + courier + import duty on top of the displayed price but yes, even with those costs it usually worked out cheaper than UK
 
To add insult to injury they have a RIF I want at a very good price that isn't available anywhere else 😭

I went full custom with my SCAR H DMR. I got the base gun for £150 boneyard, and it's getting a e&c quick change gearbox with SHS and zci internals, maxx hop and a BTC chimera. Not decided on what motor I want to put in it yet. 

It uses a non standard hop unit and nozzle so you need to be careful replacing those. Other than that it should be fairly straightforward. Not sure a drop in Mosfet will go in without some filing.

My go to recommendation gun the cyma M14 

I have the JG G3 model, it’s quite light making it easy to hump about site all day, works reliably and due to the long barrel length, pretty accurate with good range. 
I haven’t upgraded mine, which I would like to do when I stop buying other silly stuff. All in its a good value for money rif that gets the looks 😉
 
 

Some sites insist on DMRs being 7.62 . If so I’d suggest an HK G3 .
 
 

TM Aug hi cycle would be perfect.

Aug's can make good DMR's. Why you would want to do that with a TM HC I have no idea.

You have cost - A basic Aug can be had for about £100 new. The TM HC new is at least double that.

There is no external difference in quality in a JG and a TM. All of the differences are in the gearbox.

TM's are notorious for soft gears that will run forever stock with the slightly lower powered spring... If you stick a big spring in there it's going to eat the gearbox.

As soon as you modify the TM HC it's no longer a TM HC, As the only thing that makes them special is the gearbox.



For a basic AUG DMR you would want the JG/APS A1 or A2 variant with a full length barrel. Avoid the A3/A4 the ris is heavy and doesn't improve the gun. If you think  you want some more rail space look at the APS with the added side rails.

If you go with JG you can pretty much just do a spring swap and run on 11.1v to get it running. Perhaps a slightly harder hop rubber.
If you go with APS then I'd advise swapping the piston head, Spring and hop rubber and run 11.1v

To make it better from there you'll be looking at a motor and perhaps gearing it a little different to get some trigger response.

To semi lock it you can do a few things. Tape over the secondary contacts is  the fastest and least reliable way to do it, A basic rewire removing the secondary contacts is probably more appropriate and can be done in minutes with a pair of clippers, soldering iron, and some heat-shrink, without opening the gearbox.

Inner barrel wise the full length AUG runs a 509mm barrel. So you'll be wanting to run a non ported cylinder and don't really need to mess with the barrel length. The hop is decent enough, been a stock rotary unit, and other than a degrease to make it a little stiffer the unit is solid and not prone to walking.


Mags are generally good for the AUG with no real feeding problems even on the cheapest mags. There are loads of 120-170rns midcaps out there that can be had cheap like the battleaxe ones, MAG 170rnd mags are my favourite.
 
https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/army-armament-ku901-steyr-aug-aeg?pv=8463
£109 for the base gun. The Army Armament aug is based on the APS design so it has a raised area on the stock where the textures are. It'll probably want the piston head changing as the APS head is awful with an injection point on the sealing face. Other than that it's a reasonable base gun. For the extras, Your probably looking at Mosfet £20, Head £5, Hop rubber £10, Spring £10. So £45 ish to get it up to DMR basic spec. Add another £40 for a motor in the future when you want more trigger response, but the APS motor should pull an M120 on 11.1v In all it's not a bad basic spec gun for £155ish.


As for the DMR role, The Australian and Austrian army both use AUG's in DMR roles. The Australians use a modified A2 style the Austrians use the Hbar-T.

To make the Rifle into a Hbar-T the lower hand guard mount can be swapped to a 3D printed lower rail. And a picatinny tripod added. Or you can look for a barrel mounted tripod.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Designated_marksman_rifle

I hope you're not aiming for 400fps on a .32 as that would be 2.37J which is just over the limit for BASRs! You can run a "DMR" at 2.32J at some sites, but you'll need to have a 2 second delay mosfet installed as it's classed as a sniper.
 
For RIF, I'd say to get whatever you want and like the look of. Big props for not going with a big-spring-m4! If you like the ar-15 style platform, a Cyma cm098 would work really nicely. It's an SR-25, which is basically like an m16 in 7.62x51mm so it sounds ideal for you.
 
As said by @Steveoceeabove, you're going to need a decent budget if you want to make a great DMR. The cheap way to do it is keep it 1.14J and just swap out the barrel for a decent stainless steel one and the hop up rubber/nub for a maple leaf rubber and omega nub. This way keeps you with no MED, which depending on your site can be one hell of a boon, and can get some serious range and accuracy; it's how I've done my Cyma m14 build, partially because I didn't want to have to delve into that hot mess of a gearbox, and it fires to the envy of many airsofters and only cost me about £150 all in (it was bought before Taiwangun got Brexited). This is where I would start. £270 for the gun, £56 for a Prometheus 509mm stainless steel barrel (though honestly, the barrel doesn't matter too much. ZCI are a pretty good budget alternative), £10 for a Maple Leaf macaron or MR hop, £5 for a Maple Leaf omega nub all in will be around £340. These are the most important upgrades hands down; barrel and hop up are the things that will do most of the heavy lifting when it comes to achieving peak effective range and accuracy.
 
Now, going into a full DMR build you're going to need to up the power to whatever your local site limit is. Most sites are either 1.48J (400fps on a .2), 1.64J (425fps on a .2) or 1.88J (450fps on a .2) with an MED of either 20 or 30m. The way I would do it would be to go HPA because I'm a total HPA nerd and I always want to be as silent as possible, but that would add another £500ish for the build as you'd need the engine, tank, line and regulator, which would be out of your budget. Unfortunately I'm not that knowledgeable on AEGs as I've totally stopped using them now in favour of HPA and GBBRs, but I'll share my two cents anyway from my time when I used and upgraded them. What I'd swap out would be the piston, as you'll want a metal-toothed piston as plastic ones will strip the teeth pretty fast at higher powers, along with a new spring and a super high torque motor. If you have the budget, I'd replace the gears too. No idea what I'd put in, but that's the theory at least. i'm sure someone else can chime in with more useful advice as mine is mostly theoretical here as I don't use AEGs any more.

Well...  I believe that ML do a non-rubber hop erm... rubber(?) for cold weather.  
 
TBH I have rifs refuse to hop in freezing temperatures, and fps has been way down.  A quick burst of auto and you generate enough friction to heat it up sufficiently.  
 
Maybe a good idea to split the difference and fit a 60 deg.  Plenty of people do!
 
 

My fields currently 8degrees most days so cold yes but at least you feel the pellets more 😂

Everyday's a school day!  Thanks I've learned something ☺️

Yep 70s don't deform as easily as 50s and 60s, give much better results in full auto fire than the softer counterparts.
 
50s are way too soft even at 1J.

Your CM16 LMG is in the 350fps AEG category so yeah, 50 degree would be the one to use.
 
 

I’ve being using 0.25 but unfortunately at my site I’m pretty much the only support gunner so the extra range would help suppress the next set of targets that would normally be out my range 
I clean the barrel after every game and have tested that .25s work best the range is decent but I find I get out ranged a few times a day so my suppressive fire is unaffective  

It chronos at 303 what hop rubber and nub would you recommend many thanks 
Range is roughly 45m and about 50m if I mortar fire 
Yeah unfortunately a fair few people at my site have hot rifs but it’s something you get used to I geuss