Fatboy40

A PTS EPS stock is the perfect solution, you can fit anything then, you could run a Titan 6000mAh 11.1v Crane battery if you wanted to. Back onto the topic though it does cosmetically look like a very nice rifle, but it's begging to be front wired so the stock could be a little better 👍

Loads of PB's items already come from Taiwan Gun (aka "Krakman") as they're the European distributor for many brands, which is somewhat frustrating as PB have bugger all Double Eagle rifles in stock but Taiwan Gun have the whole range available 😭

I got mine from BBGUNS4LESS, yes they sell springer's, but they're a sound business (and Patrol Base are either not getting new stock of Double Eagle rifles from the European distributor, Krakman / Taiwan Gun, or their shipment is amazingly slow).

I'll have to work it out, however with my Double Eagle M908A DMR I've probably gone way over £400, things like magnified optics add possibly unexpected high costs (and a few sites expect your DMR to be running them as well). I went for a rifle with a "controller" to get cycle detection so that I don't get jams on semi, the sort that you clear by flipping to auto.

Which I what I did, along with some Loctite 270 which you can only weaken with heat, and all the sites I've been to so far have been happy with this (I really didn't want to hack the selector plate about etc.). This was the No.1 reason why I waited until I had the cash and used a Double Eagle M908A as the base for a DMR, cycle control with the Falcon Controller so no worries about potentials jams on semi. Only other thing I'd add is factor in potentially replacing your cylinder, trying a few different ones, as my DMR wasn't up to scratch until I went with a 4/5 (and probably a full / closed one would have been better).

It's more like the Titan V2, two separate PCB's that connect to each other, bottom one with sensors for the selector and sector gear and the top multiple sensors for the trigger and its sensitivity 👍

Luckily I've not yet had the need to take the selector plate off of any of the M900's I have / have access to, so I've not seen the sticker to confirm its patterning, but let's hope that they 100% mimicked GATE with their "Falcon" as you may be able to use this... https://www.thecageairsoft.co.uk/gate-titan-v2-installation-kit/

Now if you wouldn't mind disassembling it old chap so that we can confirm that the internals are 100% the same as the M900 range 😉

Another good option for you is the FMA Ballistic Helmet in the size L-XL... https://www.iwholesales.co.uk/610826-fma-ballistic-helmet-multicam-l-l-tb460-l ... but like the Airframe they're a little rare / hard to find (I got mine from France, Powair6, and I've a big melon of a head). Also if you do go for an FMA Ballistic be aware that there are two models, one that's just the helmet and another than has the full "upgraded" liner with the adjustment at the rear which you 100% want to have... https://www.socomtactical.net/fma-fast-helmet-upgraded-liner-kit-l-xl/

It is, optical sensors for the trigger + selector + sector gear. Maybe the selector plate is somehow in the wrong position, the sticker on the plate has come off / been damaged (a white sticker with black bars that the optical sensor detects), there's grease / gunge on the optical sensors or worst case the controller has become damaged

Sunday 13th...

At least the Xbox players look like they're having fun... Mickey Rourke's only smiling as his surgery mangled face can't do anything else 😛

I'd much rather have this... https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/double-eagle-m906c-ar15-rifle-with-falcon-system-in-black.html ... and factor in spending £10 on an M100 spring from AK2M4 👍 (don't be scared of BBGUNS4LESS, it's where I bought my M908A DMR from, and yes they do sell cheap springers but they're a solid business). Over the Specna you'll be getting things like a proper controller / MOSFET, with an optical trigger and the incredibly helpful cycle detection so no jams on semi.

Last year, on a Sunday when it was around 30 degrees centigrade in the shade, this was pretty much how a couple of players looked at a game I was at (unfortunately no photos, and God knows what their skin looks like now as I've still a big mark on my calf from being shot with just shorts on).

I've still a niggling feeling that the air volume is too low so I thought I'd take steps to correct that before I next play. In the image below is the stock DE M900 cylinder at the top, it has to a 3/4, and the new ZCI stainless steel 4/5 at the bottom... (full size image https://imgur.com/dCVy0jZ.jpg) ... and I'm keeping my fingers crossed this may be one of the final pieces of the puzzle (also it baffles me that the internals of all DE M900's are the same, when the M906A and 7A have a 420mm inner barrel so their air volume ratio must be very low, and with some of the poor quality springs going in them they'll be pretty gutless). Also this is how the gun's looking at the moment... (full size image https://imgur.com/z0AVJpA.jpg) ... and I just need to decide on what grip I want on the bottom of the handguard.

Proper knee pads make playing as an "oldie" so much easier, I'm 50 this year and they've been a God send, I can hide in low down places and take sneaky shot while others run around collecting boxes and flipping barrels 😁 (proper ones though from, like from Alta)

@RostokMcSpoons The PTS EPS fits perfectly on all the three DE M900's we have at home, including the M906C. It just feels like you're pulling too hard on the "lever" and something may snap, but you just need to pull it down even harder than you think you need too, and I didn't need to remove the pin you've show 👍

I picked up a battery from my local sites shop early on Saturday morning and was allowed to nip out onto the site for a few minutes to test the changes. So with the Maple Leaf 410mm AEG inner barrel, MR HOP 70 degree bucking, AK2M4 hard Omega Nub all in a ZCI plastic rotary hop unit grouping at a distance was much better with no veering to the left or right (the ZCI hop unit is admittedly not "high end", but it's of a noticeably higher quality than the stock DE one, especially the fitment of the arm). I know for certain now that I'll be more accurate at a good pinch point where I can be useful to team mates out to around 52 meters. However, beyond 50 or so meters results get a bit disappointing in that the hop doesn't seem to be consistent enough, however I genuinely think that my setup hop wise is about the best I can do as I'm using sound components carefully assembled. I'm wondering if I should be considering the weight of the BBs I'm using? I've started with 0.30g BBs, where I normally use 0.25g for my standard AEG, as I was wary of starting off at very heavy weights and also considering my favourite site has a 420 FPS DMR limit. I'm not really sure what weight I should have a try with, in that 0.32's are only a tiny bit more expensive but will they make any noticeable difference, and once onto 0.36 or 0.40 prices leap up a hell of a lot.

In the UK it would probably be the same as most other mid-ranged DE M4's, so I'd take a bet at £170 (although I've a horrible feeling that once the DE M900 range is back in stock everywhere in the UK prices are going to go up a little).

A quick turn around from AK2M4 allowed me to replace a few other items today in search of better control of hop and grouping, so in goes the Maple Leaf 410mm AEG inner barrel and MR HOP 70 degree bucking, along with an AK2M4 hard Omega Nub all in a ZCI plastic rotary hop unit. As it should do the MR HOP sat perfectly in the cut-out of the inner barrel, and when all assembled the patch sat so much better than the Macaron in the stock DE inner barrel and hop unit. Staring down the hop unit the patch, very concave before fitment, looked a little flatter with some hop applied so a little bit flat hop / a little bit R hop looking. I'm itching to get somewhere with enough range at the weekend, not an actual game though, to see the results. The FPS with no hop applied has gone from around 438 down to 418, with the new inner barrel being 25mm longer, which is more of a drop than I expected going to a slightly tighter bore. I need to play a proper game to see if this has any negative effect at all, however I've a 4/5 cylinder to replace the stock 3/4 if need be (as far as I'm aware all DE M900's have 3/4 cylinders, all internals are identical across models, so for a model like the M906A that has a 420mm inner barrel this can't be good for air volume?). @Cr0-Magnon if you don't mind me asking what did Negative Airsoft do to your M4 / AR15 for you / what parts did he replace?

As other have said get a Delta Mike, once you've tried one you'll never go back (unless you play very close indoors CQB as of course there's zero nose protection).

I got to play with my new DE M908A this weekend, another good Sunday out where we all enjoyed ourselves (myself, my son, and a friend of his). My experience with the tweaked M908A though was a bit 50/50, and I'm not sure how long this post will be so I'll probably follow it up with another in a day or two with a few photos. Out of the box the rifle was pretty gutless, only 315 FPS on 0.20g BBs with no hop on and 11.1v Titan LiIo battery, so even to use it as an AEG it would have needed a spring change. First of it was swapping in a Maple Leaf Macaron 70 Degree and Omega Nub. Like my son's M906C the arm of the hop unit had an extra recess to hold the red rubber nub in it, with the nub having a bump on its top that fits in this. Now, this is nothing scientific, but this arm is not the same as that on my earlier M904E which is a traditional arm as it appears that the arm with the recess even with no hop actually applied is pushing down already and introducing hop. Even a slight turn of the hop units wheel pushed the nub down heavily, and even with no hop set at all the FPS was down to 288. Also, and this may be more down to the inner barrel and its manufacturing / quality or the same of the hop unit, but the substantial "patch" of the ML bucking just would not maintain a inform shape with or without hop applied. Next the spring, and in went a Gearparts M130 spring which gave me 433 FPS on 0.20g with no hop, and 412 FPS on 0.20g with a small amount of hop. All good for the site I primarily play at which has a 420 FPS DMR limit. So far, with my chrono and some back garden action all was looking good, and a cheap Eotech XPS2 red dot and G33 clone magnifier finished things off so I was ready to have a real game with it using 0.30g BBs. Onto the skirmish with it and arriving nice and early it was a jaunt out of the safe zone to set things up, and the results were somewhat disappointing. The range was there, I could shoot out to 60 meters or more fine without having to lob the BBs at all, but the hop was all over the shop and miniscule adjustments produced wild result sending BBs into orbit after 40 or so meters or occasionally almost no hop at all. The actual games showed that the range was there, however now it was obvious that grouping at distance was crap, at times it felt like the BB's were maybe up to 1 1/2 feet either side of center out at 40 to 50 meters so I had to fire five or so shots to get a hit and my DMR became a long range support gun to be effective. As I said above it was a good day out, and we all had fun, but the M908A obviously needed a lot more work to it with my wallet being hit again. So, we're now onto me buying the following... a ZCI rotary hop unit (I don't trust the stock one, and don't need the smoke and mirrors of an overpriced bright yellow metal unit if you know what I mean) + a Maple Leaf 410mm 6.02 inner barrel (longer than the stock 385mm one) + a Maple Leaf MR 70 Degree bucking (I want accuracy at range) + a Gearparts M110 spring (I've still got a spare M120 but I want options just in-case the ML inner barrel makes things hotter than expected). At the moment I don't think I need to play around with cylinders. On a positive though I think the M908A as a platform is spot on, it has the great optical controller, the knock off Geissele handguard is nice, the outer barrel is long enough to support the size of inner barrels I'll need, and the metal receiver was easy to drill and tap an M4 hole so I could mechanically lock the rifle to semi-only. I think my next game may be on the 16th February, so more than enough time to do some more work on the rifle.

@Wolfie My son's first rifle was a Firehawk, and it's now his backup, so hopefully my comments will be useful. It's a great rifle / platform, which as stock has a huge volume of air that with a barrel change can easily be a DMR / hit over 400 FPS on 0.20g BBs, however the trigger massively lets it down (it's not the motor). It's a terrible mechanical trigger that just seems to take an eternity for the contacts to touch each other and finally pass current to the motor, and comparing it directly to the three Double Eagle rifles we now have at home with the Falcon Fire Control system in them (a knock-off of the optical GATE Titan) we could probably shoot two to three rounds on semi before the Firehawk got off one. Also I don't know if you also get this but an incomplete pull of the trigger on semi can at times cause only a partial cycle of the gearbox, so you have to flip to auto and fire to get a cycle, then flip back to semi. Of course you can buy a new rifle, with either a micro-switch trigger or an optical trigger (and hopefully "cycle detection" as well), or either work on the Firehawk yourself or get a good tech to do it. For example you could just swap in this... https://www.defconairsoft.co.uk/product/gg-airsoft-etu-electronic-trigger-unit-mosfet-v-2-series-lipo-power-control/ ... and see a good change, however a cheap optical controller and trigger would totally transform it and I expect a tech could do this for around £150? (after playing this Sunday my son and I aren't playing again until the end of Feb, so I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a GATE Titan v2 and fit it myself).

Any use to you? (no, not polymer, but maybe a viable alternative)... https://deadlycustoms.co.uk/product/deadly-customs-hi-capa-magazine-holster/

@LazzurusMan What weight BB's will you be using / what is your FPS as this can influence which ML bucking is appropriate (it usually follows that the heavier the BB / the higher the FPS the higher the "degree" value (the rubber / silicone is harder the higher the "degree").