Fatboy40

I know it's just personal opinion but the price of branded goggles with fans in them is frankly bloody ridiculous. I've an ExFog, not everyone's cup of tea, but at say £70 for it + £15 for the helmet pouch you can then use absolutely whatever googles you want (a pair of properly safety rated Bolle Coverall Vented googles only cost £8).

My Titan 3,000 mAh Li-Io was £36 from the site shop (but my membership does give me 10% off of all purchases). The way I play though it probably won't last me a whole day at my next game, at times my M904E may as well be an M249 ? Edit: Also on Sunday just gone I probably used around 3,200 mAh of charge overall.

Personally I'd never buy anything with a PDW style stock, battery options are totaly shit unless you have a PEQ box / the battery mounts in the front. My son has a Firehawk (which we've modded a bit), and my primary site uses them as rentals, and they genuinely have a lot of plus points but they're massively let down by their mechanical trigger. It's so easy to not pull it fully / hold it in long enough for the gearbox to fully cycle on semi-auto and end up with a jam, with you then having to flip to auto to cycle the gearbox. After Santa pays him a visit this year I'll be bravely, or stupidly, attempting to fit a GATE Aster or Titan in it in the New Year and at that point it would become a beast of an AEG as it has a huge air volume. Personally, and this is a bit "out there", if I wanted to use M4 / Stanag mags but have something stumpy I'd be seriously considering the... Specna Arms Rock River Arms SA-E18 EDGE ... which you could even end up using as a sidearm with a DMR or sniper.

The Rate of Fire (RoF) will be slower with a 7.4v LiPo, and personally I only ever play with 11.1v LiPo's in my M904E and it's never skipped a beat (my FPS is around 340 on 2.0g bb's). I can only use auto at one site I go to and on a 11.1v the RoF is more than good enough to lay a hail of plastic down. My only battery problem is that my capacity is too low on those I have, but I bought a 3,000 mAh Titan LiIo today at the site shop so fingers crossed this will be a beast.

Ouch, those looks better be beautiful for something that costs £30 more than an AAP-01 (and when I first got mine it did 330 to 340 FPS on Nuprol 2.0 and this was in chilly old December).

I'd say for a small home business they're very well made, they do feel very well stitched together and mine and my son's have had loads of abuse. Before the Delta Mike I wore this... https://nuprol.com/np-mesh-lower-face-shield-v3-camo.html ... and God knows how but after a round it always felt way more damp on the inside (at times to the point where a shake of it flew off loads of water droplets, yuck). This is pretty much pseudo science but my face felt colder with the Nuprol mask so I'm assuming the water vapor in my breath condensed quicker with it, but the Delta Mike feels noticeably warmer so maybe the water vapor condenses slower / is more dispersed? Either way I'm very happy with my Delta Mike and need to buy a few more with different patterns, and maybe one day they'll bring out their rumored second version with nose protection. The only downside I've experienced is that you need to be careful with where the toggle that tightens it up goes, I've had it too high on my head occasionally and you don't initially notice but as soon as a game starts I then feel it being pushed into my scalp by my helmet (and it bloody well hurts like hell).

I run an ExFog, it makes a huge difference, however a cheaper but substantial change for me was dropping using a mesh mask just like yours. It channeled my breath straight upwards at my goggles and made a bad situation much worse. A Delta Mike snood has been so much better, however you do run the risk of a BB hitting your nose (just look at my avatar, it's only happened once though, and it was an intense firefight that also smashed my red dot).

So far this is the only part of my M904E that's annoyed me, I had to use an easy out / screw removal tool today to get the grub screw out, it was the only thing that worked (but the flash hider itself easily came off with bare hands).

@RostokMcSpoons Are you still buying yourself a PTS EPS stock? If yes wait until you have it, it's like going from a shed in your back-garden to an aircraft hanger, the space inside it is immense and you can fit practically any battery you want to. There are more than enough photo's of it out there, however I'm happy to pop a few different batteries in mine and take a few photo's if it helps.

I enjoy laying down quite a lot of covering fire (expensive knee pads I have allow me to kneel for absolutely ages in unusual spots), as well as the odd attempt at a perfectly aimed single shot, and personally I hate mid-caps. I bought myself some bloody expensive PTS EPM1 mags a while ago, and I just don't like them at all. I don't do milsim's so I use 370 round Nuprol full metal M4 mags and I prefer their weight and with a little shake I can very easily judge just how much I have left in them (I run with three of them, plus a small bottle that holds around 1,000 BB's, so I do get through quite a lot).

Keep some of your money back for a replacement spring, as I'm going to assume that like mine it will compress relatively quickly and you'll lose 20 or so FPS. Also I bought a PTS EPS stock for mine and it's lovely, feels so high quality, and the space inside for any battery configuration you could imagine is huge.

It's gift for someone (can't say who in case they're reading) ?

I bought an M906C on Friday ?

Also worth noting that the 8's have a longer battery cable running from the Falcon controller, so easier to use with stock that supports crane / butterfly batteries in them. Also not all models have ambidextrous fire selectors on them, so those with only the switch on the left of the receiver will be easier to add a mechanical lock to them so that auto can never be selected. My Xmas bonus is going on an M908A which I'll be building a DMR from, I'll be moving my PTS EPS stock to it taking advantage of the longer battery cable, plus the metal body will be easier to add a bolt to the receiver to prevent the fire selector ever being set to auto as the selector is single sided.

I'll buy it off of you myself, for my son, if the price is reasonable (I use one myself).

@RostokMcSpoons I run my M904E with 11.1v LiPo, no problems at all, but only get to use auto at one site I go to but it's very fast and lays a hail of plastic. If you're only ever going to be on semi maybe 7.4v would be better, as if I spam the trigger on semi with an 11.1v you can feel the motor steadily getting hotter in the grip. Be aware though that Falcon MOSFET doesn't have all the bells and whistles like pre-cocking and braking, but I like three round burst rather than full auto so I'm not burning through BB's (lots of trigger pulls though on burst is pretty much the same as full auto anyhow).

Use something slightly smaller diameter wise than the pin, hold it against it, and give this a very gentle tap to ease the pin out ?

They're 100% different companies. I went down a bit a rabbit hole recently looking into them, and this is "Double Eagle"... https://trademark.trademarkia.com/qap-87130106.html ... so their parent / real company is "Fujian Qing An Precision Machinery Manufacturing Co., Ltd.", with the QAP brand being big in Asia and to some degree labelled Double Eagle elsewhere. They OEM for a few other bigger name brands as well, but also make cheap nasty plastic guns for USA supermarkets which is where their bad reputation comes from. In the UK Patrol Base is the only place to really buy the M90X's from, and the price is fair as if you add in import duty / taxes on top of the prices from TaiWanGun the costs are practically identical. One interesting thing is that the metal bodied M906E is currently £10 cheaper at Patrol Base than the identical but polymer bodied M904E

No love for anything from Double Eagle then? ? (polymer receivers, some with quite short barrels, and a very good MOSFET) Regarding the Firehawk though they are very short and light, however the mechanical trigger really let's them down, they're painfully slow to get off their first shot (I'm getting my son a new rifle for Christmas, his Firehawk will then become a back-up, and will be my first attempt to fit either a GATE Aster or Titan as with an optical trigger it will be such a good CQB gun).

How long is a piece of string? (e.g. there are so many that are good enough at that price). I'd be thinking about where you'll be playing most of the time, for example is it indoors, outdoors, close quarters / CQB style of game play, forest types of environments where you may potential be after a little more range, do you want something light to carry, do you want realism in your choice of gun more than something that just works well. Have a think about points like these and come back with a reply listing what matters most to you, and then others can come back with good recommendations ?

Cool, this may mean nothing to you if you don't like football but one of my all time favourite player is Marians Pahars (the "little Latvian") as I support Southampton. If you're an EU member country, which Latvia is, buying from Taiwan Gun is very easy and you should have no problems ?

I'm somewhat biased and would pick the M904E for various reasons. Do you mind me asking if you're in the UK, as if you are buying from Taiwan Gun may not be the best option due to import duties and importing being a horrible mess right now.

That would be the first thing I'd be checking out, I've 100% seen this in the flesh, hop totally "off" but the arm not returning completely so the bucking's patch is still slightly protruding. Sounds like maybe a disassembly and the tiniest drop of silicon oil, maybe apply with a cotton bud / toothpick, either side of the arm and on the pin holding it in place?

@ak2m4 This is a partial thread hijack, however over Xmas I'd like to build a DMR based on a Double Eagle platform, and I note your liking for the AOLS inner barrel. I see that they're all a 6.01mm diameter, very tight, so do you have any recommendations for maintaining them / preventing potential BB jams? (I've also read, and this is not a hard and fast fact I'm presenting, that for a DMR perfect hopping is king more than the tightness of a bore, and a tight bore can be detrimental as there's no "air gap" for cushioning the BB / it could clip a foreign object more easily in the tighter bore?)

@Gonz. Be aware that the inner barrel you mention should take you over the typical UK 350 FPS AEG limit if you already get 346 FPS, and I've a feeling that it will probably be to the point where you'll chrono noticeably hot if a site is playing fair (the stock inner barrel is 215 mm with a 6.05 diameter).