alxndrhll

Words to live by!

Seemingly unjustifiably high price aside, I cannot fathom what would have anyone leave their phone number open to all on a public forum. While I'm here, time to be that guy again. Classifieds rules police back at it again 🚔 'Also on the way is a Steel Buffer/Recoil Kit and Adjustment Tool which should be arriving shortly.' Forum Classifieds Rule Number 6: 'You must have access to the item that you're selling. You cannot be selling items that you do not own, are not able to post immediately or being sold on the behalf of someone else.' Such a strange correlation between 'questionable ads' and 'not following classifieds rules'. Who'da thunk it.

Not to be 'that guy'... while absolutely being 'that guy'. It's also a breach of the forum's classifieds rules. '7. You must include a picture of every item that you are selling. It is not acceptable to just show a box or use a stock images. Pictures must be visible in the listing (whilst we do allow links to other forums, simply placing a link instead of a picture is not permitted).' While aware the rules can be an inconvenience, they exist for a reason.

My best guess is he’s currently sat passed out chained to a pillar in the Depot with a crude sign which reads “Aye shall not be moved!” propped up against his knees.

Many of my fondest airsofting memories are from Urban Assault (RAF Upwood). Certainly helped by the fact is was fairly local to me but it had a superb mix of CQB and more open outdoor spaces, and this was helped by general good use of the site as a whole during games. I think the latter was the ‘special sauce’ for me. There are sites that are a somewhat similar layout (Anzio Camp being an example that I’ve been to relatively recently), but I often feel the buildings are a bit overused throughout the day. Insisting they are used by having objectives in them, or points to defend rather than allowing the site as a whole to breathe a bit and allow players to use different parts of it. The site definitely gradually go worse as more of it fell into disrepair, but it’s certainly the site that got me hooked. I believe it only closed it’s doors relatively recently but I hadn’t been in years. Though they likely wouldn’t remember me at all, Frank (owner of Firesupport?) and Ian (I believe the ‘head marshall’ through most of my time attending, but I could be wrong) were both always willing to help when I was a young ‘un initially getting into the game. The more I think about, the more influential that site was on my continued interest in airsoft on the whole.

'Expensive' is such a hard word to throw around because it's a relative term. What is cheap to me may well be very expensive to others. Though I agree that the 'price of entry' does often get inflated I'd argue that it usually works out costing more than an equivalent AEG setup (though this largely down to the excellent budget AEG choices available nowadays). Combine that with the increased chances of not having as much fun doing it as you'd hoped you might, leading to wanting to sell it on at a significant lost. That is the recipe that I believe leads to general phrasing of 'sniping is expensive'. Returns on investment for airsoft kit is generally not great, 'upgraded' bolt action rifles crank that to 11. Well that and the cost of decent ammo. Even though I've found it lasts significantly longer than your average bag of 3000 0.2-0.32s it still stings everytime I top up the supply.

As others have stated taking the jump into sniping is a big ol’ risk. It’s generally expensive to get into, and in my experience unlike many other platforms/styles of play you want that RIF to be well tuned to get a decent sense of whether you’re ‘into it’. That tends to come at a financial cost, which you don’t tend to get much back on if you find the style isn’t for you. Borrowing a decent rifle for a few sessions would be my default advice, but I’m aware that isn’t always an option... and we have no idea when we’re going to be able to play again. I’m all for any sort of budget build, there are absolutely instances where you can get a RIF shooting amazingly on a small budget. When it comes to bolt action rifles and the power you’re dealing with parts tend to give way quicker than they would in an AEG. Though aftermarket parts and modifications like 90 degree triggers/pistons, hop chambers, TDC (top dead centre) mods and tighter barrels certainly can improve performance but a lot of what you end up paying for is durability coming from better quality materials. There is little more frustrating than getting everything set just as you like it, for a part to break and never quite getting it back where it was. If you’re only planning on ‘sniping’ from time to time it’s worth considering picking up a VSR clone and doing some cost effective mods to improve the consistency. For me personally the correct powered spring for your limits, a decent hop bucking and a TDC would be the minimum I’d pop in a ‘sniper rifle’. You need that hop to be performing as consistently as possible. Perhaps stretching to an aftermarket barrel if the stock one is a bit ropey. Pre-owned is a decent option, but as with any second hand purchase there is an element of risk. Whichever route you take it’s worth learning your rifle inside and out. Knowing how it all comes apart, goes together, and ‘what does what’ will serve you well as you change/replace parts and generally fettle to get things how you want them. Apologies for the essay.

For sure, I'm exactly the same. But I've gradually learned over time that all it winds up costing me is more lube. As mentioned previously your hop is a tool to put spin on the BBs and get the trajectory as you want it with your desired weight, not a tool to adjust your FPS. Until you've got that hop set right there is just too much variation in terms of FPS/joules that'll come from adjusting your hop without knowing if it's correct or not to have any real idea which spring you're best off with. I know others opinions may vary but I'll always advocate for ensuring your RIF is site legal on the ammo weight you're using. I dread to think how dangerous RIFs like the SRS could get if folks actively leaned into the fact sites seem to insist on chrono'ing on .2s with a limit of 500fps. With my SRS set up as is it's consistently 2.25J on a .48... which is 430FPS on 0.2g with the hop set to lift said .48s. I dread to think how much you'd be creeping if you were setting up for 500FPS on .2g. With my VSR setup as is I don't seem to find a huge amount of joule creep, but as we all know different parts create some very 'interesting' results at times.

As hard as it is to avoid the temptation (I know, I've been there, it's hard not to tinker when you know something isn't right) I'd be inclined to avoid tweaking anything until you've been able to get the hop set somewhere close to where it needs to be to get that clean flat trajectory. You need to get your 'control' results before you can make informed choices on switching things around.

I'd assumed the bullet points were a fun diagram of BBs flight during a quick tap semi burst.

The easy option is to swap the spring out, or clip the existing one down. Though with the latter be sure to do this 'properly' it's not simply a case of clipping coils off, be sure to flatten it off and keep it clean. Using a piston with an airbrake is another option. Either way I'd advise settling on the ammo you're intending to use, get your hop dialed in and then do your chrono tests. Once you know what you're on joule/FPS wise with the RIF set up as you'd use it in a game it's easier to advise on which is the best option. If you're a little over, clipping a coil off is likely the most effective (both in terms of end result and cost). If you're a lot over, lower powered spring. If you want the option to fine turn further, piston with an airbrake. Until you've got the information as to what it's shooting on a consistent ammo weight with the hop set for that weight it's hard to advise with anything more precise than that. Welcome to the world of tuning a bolt action rifle, where changing one part has a tendency to waterfall into changing other bits. It’s half the fun... I guess 🤷🏻‍♂️.

Aye, I've looked a few times. They have the 10" version in stock currently and I've nearly 'pulled the trigger' a few times but their pricing on the RIFs themselves is significantly higher than High Pressure (works out about £100 more before shipping). Pricing on parts seems roughly the same after conversion, so I'll heed your recommendation and head there for those. A tad weird that the RIFs themselves have such a large price jump!

Aye, never seem to answer the phone and I think I've tried every form of text based communication to get in touch with them... all fruitless. I begrudge giving them my hobby pennies truth be told... but I'm yet to find any other options over here. The line only tended to bother me because I don't tend to use slings because I like to have full freedom of movement and the ability to quickly lean my rif up against a tree/walk if I want to dash round a corner with my pistol, or pass it to a team mate when clambering through windows so on and so forth. Likely because I don't use slings even having played with a line for a few years I still forgot to disconnect it on ocassion. As I said in my intial post, not a deal breaker... but felt worthwhile exploring the options that are there. Unless others chime in I may well go with the CO2 stock for starters, with plans of grabbing the aero when the new version releases. I can also switch back to the line if I'm struggling to get the CO2 running as hoped! Though as mentioned at the top of this post, I'm someone reluctant to leave not a small amount of money with a company that can't really be arsed with customer service... doesn't build a huge amount of confidence that I'd be keep up to date with what going on.

Much appreciated, I'd suspected as much in terms of them making some tweaks because it's been forever since it'd be in stock on the Wolverine website. As for the CO2, the main 'issue' I've seen is from people using the 12g version and just not setting the puncture depth correctly with other issues seeming to stem from incorrect installation or just a lack of understanding of what CO2 is and isn't capable of doing consistently.\ Fortunately(?) I'm not in a mad rush, given where I'm located and the fact it looks like national lockdown mk2 is upon us I imagine I'm largely done with attending games for the rest of the year so I guess I'll set my sights on getting an order in (I imagine through High Pressure Airsoft, though I've been less than impressed by there correspondence or lack there of) so I'm at least in the queue. I guess that's the benefit of having somewhat of a monopoly on the HPA market over here as far as I can tell. Cheers, Alex

I'm not sure I'd necessarily class it as either, for the most part I'd personally say it goes against the spirit of the game. But there's an arguement to be made for people in general just not making it clear if they're 'dead' or not. Tends to be a hand in the air for the 3 seconds that they're moving from their position to start to the walk back to a dead zone these days, and that's the point at which whether they're 'dead' or not become immediately unclear. Which is exacerbated by the fact dead folks sure do like to moan when you shoot them, despite them showing no signs they're 'out' for the time being. The easiest way to tell nowadays is 'are the shooting back at me', so I can see why those involved would question what was going on.

Hi folks, No idea if anyone will be able to assist, mainly looking for opinions. The TLDR is I'm picking one of these puppies up shortly so I have a nice quiet, reliable option to play more aggressively with while dressed as a bush. I don't use full auto, but this won't be set up as a DMR... very much a 'I can't be bothered with minimum engagement distances today' set up. Likely going with the Inferno Gen 2 as the engine. I'm not new to HPA, it's pretty much all I've run for the past few years (mainly using Polarstar systems) but something I hadn't looked into before was ridding myself of the tank and line.. or the very least the line. Though certainly not a deal breaker, if I could remove the line from the equation I'd be pretty happy about it. So that leaves me looking at the CO2 wraith stocks (preference being the 33g, but if there is a notable reason to go with 12g I'm open to it) or the AERO stock. From what I can gather CO2 would require a bit more maintainence (I'm assuming keeping o-rings in shape would be it for the most part), and if you go with the 12g version you need to be sure you know what you're doing when setting depth. The 33g is essentially just acting as a small tank which simply screws into the regulator which is built into the stock. The AERO appears to essentially be just a regulator with shroud designed around it to take 13ci tanks, with the main downside being the looks (which I'm not particularly against, most of my stuff gets painted and covered in tape/scraps of material anyway). Does anyone have experiences with either, know of any notable additional pros/cons or have a personal preference either way? Really struggling to make a choice between the two, and wouldn't be shocked if I end up with both eventually. Just canvasing for opinions as there doesn't seem to be a large amount of information out there, especially in the case of the AERO... or I'm just not looking in the right places. Truth be told the post in here by @lukeB is probably the most useful information I've seen to date! Cheers, Alex

Worth considering selling some bits off which are easier to obtain at a 'reasonable' price more locally so you can get both while the opportunity is there? I'm aware 'why not both' is a relatively useless answer, but that's probably the route I'd take if I genuinely felt like whichever way I go would result in an element of regret and I had things around me which I'd be comfortable parting with to replace at a later date if the feeling took me.

I design board games for a living, so suffice to say the dictionary definitions of words often get muddled up with ones I’ve defined in rulebooks to mean something else from time to time! Momentum is very much one of the worst offenders in this case.

I don't tend to bother largely because, like others have mentioned, I use a Vortex. If I was inclined to protect the lens in any way I'd go with a killflash of some description, because it kills two birds with one stone.

That's the one! Seems entirely reasonable, I imagine it'd carry a bit nicer on an AK SU (apologies if this incurs the wrath of the AK Gods, I'm not really an 'AK guy') of some description but a glorious looking chunk of steel for sure.

Aye, those thicc boys really throw the balance off when you're adding a heap of weight that far from the natural 'pivot point' (there is probably an actual term for what I'm trying to say) when handling the RIF. I've found a noticeable difference in how unwieldly the DTSS suppressors feel when used with the G-Spec length barrel versus the 16" and 22" outer barrels. Pretty crazy how the same amount of weight can carry so differently depending on how far from your grip they are.