Cyberlawyer
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Posts posted by Cyberlawyer
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As per the title, I’m currently a 99% gbbr user and will even run them in the winter, so I have gradually got rid of my AEGs until I am down to my last one (a TM 416 Devgru). The thing is it has seen so little use I’m thinking I might be better getting rid of it and using the cash on something I actually use (like gas, lots of gas).
The thing Is I always have it in my car on game days just in case gas won’t work. But it’s not even a backup rifle as I take one (or two) of those as well. It’s just a safety net. Not really sure if it’s with keeping???
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In My
1 hour ago, PopRocket123 said:The we ones break so often that they turn up on the forums for peanuts pretty regularly.
I have had a WE Mp7 for a while and it has been pretty reliable despite having a lot of rounds through it. I'm not really sure where the 'they break a lot' vibe has come from, but in my experience they are just as durable as the Marui, and when they do break something (and all full auto GBBRs will break somthing eventually) the parts support is much better. The bits that tends to wear first are the bolt catch and the trigger sears as they are made of finest pot metal. Personally I'd replace with stock parts. RATECH steel bits are available, but require time and effort and some careful filing to get to work nicely and given the cost aren't worth the effort.
In my opinion the reason they come up for sale so often is they shoot like crap out of the box, nothing that isn't too difficult to fix, but it needs some work to shoot well. A couple of things to look at:
1. Out of the box they are covered in tones of shipping grease that needs to come off. Clean them out with some engine degreaser and then re-grease with a light spray of silicone over the bolt and a smear of grease on the runners and the gas efficiency will be much better (yes you still get some cool down, but you will at least get through the whole mag).
2. Before you judge it too harshly put 1000 or so gentle rounds through it (semi or short bursts) and then clean and re-grease it. The parts need a while to lap together so they run smoothly over each other.
3. The hop is totally rubbish as the hop arm fowls on the hop window in the inner barrel so you can't add much hop. You need to either file the bit of the arm thinner or enlarge the hop window (or some combination of both) to be able to apply more hop. I haven't done it on mine, but a crazy jet inner barrel may also fix the issue as they generally have a larger hop window.
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52 minutes ago, PopRocket123 said:
Much prefer the PDQ style one on the MTR16. Trouble is for that it's just about the only though about it that I like!
I completely agree with this sentiment. I got an MTR used so I could use the ambi lower on my competition gun. Good job I got a good second hand price as the only bits that survived were the lower itself the buffer tube, charging handle and the silver bolt (which makes no difference to me). All the remaining parts were replaced. I even went as far as using a standard MWS upper receiver so I could still have a functioning forward assist.
I used the spare MWS lower and MTR upper to make a, 8” PDW build where the forward assist deletion makes much more sense for concealed carry.
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As already mentioned the MP5 should not lock back on the last round, In fact the real steel version doesn't do this either so that is no problem.
On firing the last round (provided you haven't locked the dry fire button on the magazine down) you should get a 'deadmans click' as the trigger fires, but the weapon doesn't cycle (exactly what you get on a real mp5 when the hammer falls on an empty chamber).
I you are not getting this and the MP5 continues to fire on an empty mag (and you have checked the magazines are not locked in dryfire mode and the magazine is working as it should and the catch at the rear flicks up when the last round is removed) then you probably need a new "part 31". https://www.kyairsoft.com/parts/we-smg-gbbr/apache-series/apache-series/we-apache-long-31-gbbr.html. It is a very thin part that moves the valve knocker up when the mag is empty so it doesn't hit the magazine output valve.
I ordered one from KY and had it in a week. It was a doddle to fit and immediately solved my issue.
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So where the hell did all of these Mags come from.....
So sorting out some stuff the other day as I am paring down my Airsoft kit. (Keeping all my GBBR stuff, but going down to 1 NGRS AEG as a final backup) and I discovered (to my surprise) that tucked away in various corners I have 20 (Yes TWENTY!!!!) MWS Magazines. Some of these I purchased myself so I had a skirmishable number of mags, but the others came as part of various used bundles that I used to build my current fleet of 4 MWS. 3 of these are the short Vietnam/MTR style mags the remainder (17) are all TM v2 mags. All are fully working and gas tight. 13 of the 35 rounders have silent fill valves fitted and have had the silver tube cropped just above the fill valve, the other four are stock (and actually look brand new, not even any scuffing round the magazine catch).
On the one hand I'm thinking I should just distribute the mags around my various loadouts so they are all 'grab and go' ready rather than just faffing about switching mags around, and it does mean if I ever sell my collection each gun will come with a usable amount of mags. On the other hand I am secretly crying inside at the amount of cash I have tied up in MWS magazines that I will never need to carry in one go....
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Barrel length/bore size and an NPAS are all you really need to up the power to any level you can use in the UK.
A couple of my MWS also have an angry gun v2 piston head and an after market rocket valve spring, but that was just because the OEM parts had started to wear and it’s much harder to get new OEM parts than the after market ones (and they work fine).
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@paradoxum where did you get that FAST helmet mandible from? I’m really after one just that style.
Thanks
D
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I have no idea how she performs yet as I stupidly broke the bolt catch when manhandling the trigger box. I have just received and fitted a new one, but it was too late for any testing. I will shoot it for the first time tomorrow so will report back offer that.
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So here is the latest addition to my MWS collection. 8” PDW build.
As some of you will remember from the above I picked up an MTR to use the ambi lower in my competition gun. This is what I did with the bits I had left.
Its the MTR upper receiver (I wanted the forward assist on my competition gun) with a regular MWS lower a guarder front end kit and a G&P PDW stock.
Still a few bits to sort. NPAS is on order and I managed to bugger up the bolt catch due to my own clumsiness so trigger box will have to come out once the new one arrives, but other than that I’m quite pleased with it.
- Wo1f, SSPKali, GothicGhost and 1 other
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Any one have any experience with the Angry Gun Steel Bolt stop?
I have unfortunately broken my stock part (entirely my fault) and I can't find an OEM one in stock in the UK. I know Angry Gun parts can be hit and miss (with more misses than hits), but how badly can they screw up a bit of shaped metal provided they too the measurements from an original part?
If needs be I can fine tune it with a file I guess.
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Not a personal experience, but one of the players I was with at a friends 'Stag do' game was running along and put his food down a rabbit hole. His leg stopped instantly but his body kept going ending up with a 90 bend the wrong way in the middle of his shin (ouch). He ended up having to have surgery to put metal pins in his leg and was in a plaster cast for the wedding (not a good look for the photos as he was the best man).
Worst airsoft injury I have personally witnessed by a long margin, but It wasn't really airsoft specific, could have happened at any event/sport/activity where you run through the woods.
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I’m not sure conformal coating would fix it (I am aware of several people who have done this) it seems to be the contacts in the micro switches that are susceptible to water ingress and I’m not aware of any coating that either (a) prevent water ingress into physically moving parts (the motion of the switches will break or wear away any seal), or (b) actually coat the contacts inside the switches but still allows current to flow.
On the plus side as it is only the micro switches once the gun dries out they seem to work fine (although I do wonder about longer term corrosion damage), but still not really an acceptable situation for a £1000+ Boom stick. -
I must admit the 8" PDW route is probably the most appealing, as it actually has a purpose. I am already well over any site DMR limits with my 14" competition gun so I could just stick a LPVO on it and skirmish that. The only advantage on the 16" build would be avoiding the need to swap optics (not really a hardship) and avoiding wear on my competition gun, which is a more valid consideration.
I also have to say that 8" build is very pretty, who did the paintwork?
C
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Having played about with one (not actually skirmished, but fired and manipulated one) I would say that in terms of immersion it is a generational leap ahead of the NGRS.
In my opinion it is still not at the level of the immersion of the MWS, but where it wins over the gas platform is all weather consistency and the convenience of batteries over gas.
At the moment it has a couple of its own problems, water Ingres into the electronics and hop/nozzle durability being the main ones that I am aware of (this widget seems to solve the first of these). Once both of these are solved then I would seriously consider getting one.
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@Davegolf I think there is a picture earlier on the thread but always happy to repost a pic of the ladies...
@gunbod007 How many were you carrying? I sometimes carry 13 (10 on plate carrier, 2 in belt and 1 in gun) and while heavy it’s not uncomfortable. Although I do normally carry less so I can lay flatter.
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Ok so general question to the MWS hive mind, I currently own 3 MWS and I have them set up as follows:
1. Mk18 build 10.5 inch barrel - Full auto - regular skirmish gun shooting 350 fps.
2. Mk12 build 20 inch steel outer barrel (yes its bloody heavy) - Semi locked - shooting 500fps, (but usually have to down tune it with NPAS to 450/400 for site DMR limits).
3. 14.5 inch - competition gun - Semi locked - shooting 380 fps on 0.3g bbs used for 2/3 gun competition shooting where as long as it is legal highest FPS possible is an inherent advantage as we are only shooting targets, 14.5 inch barrel makes it very quick to transition between targets so perfect for 3 gun style shooting.
I may have just acquired another MWS (it is actually an MTR and I plan to transplant the ambi receiver into my competition gun). So my question is what build should I do with this gun, given I will be using the regular mws receiver currently on my competition gun. Currently I am thinking either:
(a) a 16" recce rifle build, or
(b) a short barrelled PDW build (probably 8 inches),
What do people think would be the best way to go that I would get the most use out of?
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7 minutes ago, Wild Weasel said:
does anybody use the silver sealing rings on maple leaf buckings
I have a couple of MWS with Maple Leaf hop rubbers in. I have always used the sealing ring with no issues.
They can be a bit tight at first, but if you just leave the gun overnight with the nozzle in the hop the bed in nicely.
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One of my other big hobbies is racing RC cars, they have a recognised national body (BRCA) so all affiliated outdoor tracks will be running from Monday. Looking at the BRCA model it shouldn’t be too hard to set up something robust that could get recognised as a governing body. As I see it the two biggest hurdles are:
1. Actually getting enough consensus in the airsoft community to agree a constitution and initial set of rules for such a body.
2. Funding the body.
For 1 to be effective a critical mass of organisers have to sign-up and agree to a common set of rules such that unaffiliated sites are in the minority and market forces either compel them to join or close. Unless the vast majority of sites are onboard getting recognised as a governing body will be very difficult.
For 2 to work players would probably have to pay an annual membership fee (with a grace period for new players) to the governing body to be able to play at affiliated sites to cover direct cost. Not to mention some sites fees could go up to cover the cost of implementing the new rules if they don’t have them in place already (mandated minimum insurance, ratios for Marshals to players, mandatory first aid training etc).
At the moment I just don’t see it happening as there are two many opposing interests in play. It may happen at the point there is a big enough external threat to overcome these individual interests (e.g draft legislation banning airsoft) but by that time it may be too late.....
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Personally I’m fond of the Bolle Tracker II with a prescription insert. They cost about £60 with the prescription lense. However once you have the prescription insert they can be taken out and moved to a new set of goggles easily and the safety part only costs about £15 ish. So easy to swap them out if the lenses get scratched or if you want to swap to a tinted pair on a sunny day.
Most of the time I use contact lenses, but I still like the Bolle Tracker II even without the prescription insert as they resist fogging really well.
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The hop is rubbish. The hop nub catches on the edge of the hop window cut in the inner barrel. It’s not too bad to fix. You can either file the hop nub thinner or extend the hop window on the inner barrel (or any combination of the two) or replace the inner barrel with one with a larger hop window (crazy jets are a good fit and have a larger hop window).
At U.K. power the hop rubber is a bit hard. A maple leaf autobot 50degree fixes this nicely (note they need a longer hop window than the VSR standard so work best with a maple leaf barrel).
An npas is a good idea to deal with U.K. weather variations otherwise it will be pants in the winter (mine is still decent even in winter on red gas) and won’t pass chrono in summer.
The gun ships with the internals slathered in really heavy transport grease. This needs cleaning off and a lighter silicone oil applied other it really slows down the bolt cycling and ruins gas efficiency.
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The Marui is clearly the better shooter, but the WE is pretty decent.
It needs a bit of TLC at first. but once I got mine sorted and put a couple of thousand rounds through it to wear it in it has been totally reliable ever since. With 5 mags it is totally skirmishable for shorter games without having to carry a speed loader although I do want a couple more. -
Just took delivery of a custom kydex holster with L2 retention for my FNX 45. It’s fitted on a safariland qls fork so I can quickly swap it out on my belt.
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This isn’t the first thread on this, and I’ll try not to repeat everything I already said.
The Marui is clearly a better shooter out of the box and has correct trademarks, but it is more expensive, has less parts support and is too small (this bothers some people more than others).
The WE is cheaper and the correct size, there is an option to add trades at extra cost. It has decent aftermarket support. However it needs some work to shoot as well as the Marui. As a minimum the hop arm needs some filing and a new hop rubber is a good idea.
Personally I have the WE and have been very happy with it once I did a few modifications.
Anyone Gone GBBR Only - Even U.K. Winter
in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Posted
Thanks for the opinions, I genuinely find everyone’s views interesting.
Just to clarify a few points:
My main aim with this is not financial it’s more about physical space than anything else.
I totally take the point about having a reliable backup I’m time poor too so having a gun that will work is important, but I usually take a couple of MWS as well as a couple of sorted WE MP5s to every game day so my level of confidence the something will work is high. I guess the fact I haven’t used my AEG for so long is testament to this fact, but there is still that nagging doubt…