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Shaydee

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Everything posted by Shaydee

  1. Awfully tempted to drop some bank on a Modify PP-2000. Anyone own one and have any thoughts on it?

    1. Show previous comments  4 more
    2. Asomodai

      Asomodai

      I have heard the plastics used are quite brittle. 

    3. Shaydee

      Shaydee

      Cheers lads. Will have a nose at some more reviews to see but from what I've viewed it seems serviceable. If that's all the major issues then it should work be alright, I've deffo seen worse in the airsoft world! I mainly want one to quench my Battlefield thirst 😄

  2. I personally wouldn't bother with an Rhop, maple leaf rubbers are almost as good without any of the fitment hassle. If you're going to be using the PDI barrel you'd have to file off the bridge to use a standard VSR type rubber. For the rhop side of things I'm not sure what rubber you could use with a VSR style hop and a bridged barrel. As for cheap mods - barrel spacers. If you've got some masking tape cutting about wrap one or two layers adhesive side away from the barrel (so it doesn't stick and become a pain in the arse to get off) and then wrap normally. A couple of these will help to stop the inner barrel wobbling around the outer. Masking tape is better than electrical as the latter moves about a lot more and doesn't stick to itself as well as the former. Nice and cheap and good for consistency. You could spray it aswell if you fancied. I went the cheapo camo tape route and it has held up on my gspec the past few years pretty well, so potentially another option. It's not massively expensive for either option really. As a side note, I'm pretty sure the standard VSR barrel length is 430 so 455 might end up sticking out a bit - I've only got first hand experience with a gspec though so there might be a bit of leeway in what would fit.
  3. As far as I'm aware if you run CO2 on a Tippmann you vent anything remaining in the capsule when you remove a mag, less than ideal. Better off sticking to TM MWS or GHK, maybe WE at a stretch but from what I hear the internals are cheese and need replacing sooner rather than later.
  4. If you've only got one at the moment I'd say get a second. It's always nice to have a spare, whether it be a loaner or a reliable backup for if/when the other goes down or is being worked on.
  5. Sounds like I might have to grab an upgrade. My wallet weeps 😄
  6. Yeah like @Adolf Hamster I'd be checking the hop/inner barrel assembly first. Ideally out of the gun and checking there are no obstructions with the unit going from off to fully on, popping a BB in and seeing if it'll pass through without having to use a metric fuckton of force.
  7. I think the wire is there to reset the system in case of low pressure or something of the sort and not to cock/load a round. I think you'll be dry firing one regardless of which system you grab! The trigger setup on the Kythera does look very nice though, all adjustable and that fun stuff, though like you said it's a fair whack more expensive. You can get a PDIK Gen 2 for less, or roughly the same price already fit into a gearbox (just need a selector plate and a trigger) from Mancraft themselves. And on top of that the Kythera is pretty much out of stock everywhere.
  8. I'd presume the first thing it is doing (on the new version) when pulling the trigger is releasing the air in the chamber to fire and then pulling the nozzle back, with the trigger release pushing the nozzle forward and loading the BB. No first hand experience, though I'm toying with the idea of getting a newer gen one. Old gen (open bolt) - nozzle back > pull trigger > nozzle forward to load BB and air released to shoot > release trigger > nozzle back New gen (closed bolt) - nozzle forward > pull trigger > air released to shoot and then nozzle backwards > release trigger > nozzle forward to load BB I'd guess typically when you're reloading a closed bolt HPA system you'd end up dry firing once before you start shooting again as the nozzle being forward stops the first BB from entering the chamber.
  9. The pdik and kythera operate completely differently cycle wise, the latter completes a full cycle whilst the pdik does half on trigger pull and half on release (A sort of explanation can be found here although I don't think the PDIK was created as a solenoid based system first, maybe he's referencing the Redline N7 in the video) - note the kythera has a reset system with that extra wire also. The key definition of a closed bolt HPA system is that the nozzle is locked forward before the trigger is pulled. On the older gen the nozzle would be held back and would seat and fire the BB when the trigger was pulled, resetting to an open position when releasing the trigger - hence open bolt. Hope that clears things up a bit!
  10. Not a gen 2 owner but have owned the old open bolt one for a couple of years. Has worked fine and dandy for me and have had no qualms about its accuracy even though it is an open bolt system. The newer version is closed bolt, at least based on a video of a prototype version on Facebook. I highly doubt they'd be lying about the operation of it though as it was one of the major selling points about the update. As for dimensions, no idea. You'd probably get an answer from then via email or Facebook though, they're not too shabby on that. Their website is a bit of a mess for descriptions and specs I'd agree. You'd be looking at a max length of the internals of a V2 gearbox though, from front to rear of where the piston/cylinder/spring, etc, sit. Edit: Judging by some design renders it's a bit shorter than that length, but dependent on version. Best off contacting them I'd reckon
  11. Hell, I had to file down my LCT clone B11 to fit my LCT! And this was after screwing up a real steel one (got it to fit solid but messed up the alignment for the B19N 😅)
  12. If it's not clearly rated I wouldn't bother going about buying/using them in the first place (a personal opinion, but one I would presume many would agree with). Anyways that sentiment aside, if they are/were fit for purpose - after shooting them the first time you may have created an underlying weakness which has caused them to crack on receiving further hits. If any eye pro you use has suffered damage to the extent it has caused an indentation that large, a crack, or something similar it's at that point I'd recommend replacing lenses. It has been used up to its maximum tolerance and is likely no longer safe and I'm making a presumption here that the maximum tolerance for off brand eye pro is a sub 3 joule impact.
  13. They'll run fine on propane, you'll have to reseal them eventually as they give out under the increased pressure over the duster gas they were designed for originally - as to whenever that is, how long is a piece of string 😄. If you do get the clone mags make sure to have a file or dremel handy so you can widen the BB channel near the bottom, otherwise you'll be loading through the feed lips. Jump into the MK23 owners group on Facebook if you're on that as well, wealth of knowledge on there.
  14. Sod spraying them, roll them around a bit in the mud and they'll be fine. Like you've mentioned it's body movement with the bolt racking that'll get you noticed more than anything you're wearing - bar high vis and jingle bells of course 😄
  15. Ahh good to know - bit weird that they're seperate, must be a hold over from their old setup or easier to keep them apart if they're a big seller maybe.
  16. Might need to ask them via a comment or the like to drop to a lower power spring unless you're doing it yourself. Description reads as 410fps and it seems to be one of the only products on the site that doesn't have their new 'select fps' thing. Have been eyeing up a cheap 105 from Cyma off gunfire to mess about with alongside my LCT to be honest. Cracking what you get for the price.
  17. 'tis the curse of the hobby, the old 'oh that looks cool' and within two clicks your bank account has had virtual numbers removed and you're waiting for a new toy to show up 😄
  18. Ahh that's fair. I've got no first hand experience with them, might grab a spina/vector optics copy further down the line but too many plans on the go for that 😄 Zoom isn't really too relevant in airsoft, certainly another diminishing return, but I personally find it handy for spotting and placing sniper/dmr shots through bits of cover some distance away. Dependant on what PK-A copy you've got it'd probably stand the test - I've got a grubby cheap clone I got second hand in a bundle with my GHK and fielded a few times, seemed to take it fine really.
  19. If it's an ACM style PSO clone (which I think from the flat black colouring it is) I'd hazard a guess it's because it's an airsoft copy. PSO/POSPs usually have a good 70-80mm worth of eye relief which is only a bit less on paper than some Leupolds at a couple of grand which show about 90mm 😄 This is only through google-fu though - in more real world my visionking shortdot and nikko stirling mountmaster both share around the same at 85ish mm and those are plenty. On a more thread related note I've got a 5KU RK-0 grip on it's way from Chinaland as an alternative to the RK-6 copy I've had for a few years now.
  20. As @Skara and @GeorgePlaysAirsoft have mentioned - partizan is the suit cut and not the name of the camouflage, though many stores and off brands utilise the name. The partizan suit itself can come in different patterns, notibly SS-Leto (summer, pretty sure it's the russian translation of the word) , SPECTRE (two different variants) and some ATACs though I believe the manufacturer SSO do offer more stuff on their website. There's also the partizan-m suit which is slightly different and comes reversible in a brown and green (fall and spring respectively) with the latter being more similar to the original camo it's based on. The SS naming is derived from where the camouflage was taken from in the first place - Eichenlaubmuster, used by the Waffen SS (oak leaf, pea dot, whatever you want to call it). I own a partizan m suit, first bit of more expensive kit I purchased, still reasonable at about £100 posted though compared to other alternatives. It's held up very well over the years through brambles and the like and would highly recommend one if it tickles anyones fancy. If I was to hazard a guess I think @GeorgePlaysAirsoft is talking about the spring colouring of the pattern.
  21. I wouldn't even call it a semi only gun, there's no nozzle so you wouldn't even be able to use it! 😄 For an adjustable or 1 joule you'll be shelling out ~£30, so it's even closer to retail, especially when you can get them from milspecsolutions or just cause for about £600 (bar the postage of course).
  22. Pretty sure that's a life jacket/vest/preserver, not sure what the SEALs call them.
  23. For around that price I'll be sticking to Geoffs from outdoor and tactical, though that being said I picked up some BLS .43s for my VSR to give them a try when lockdown finally ends. And there's something about that valkyrie packaging that just looks off to me :|
  24. I made the very same mistake but I love it! My bank balance doesn't though . . . is it really my fault Russia uses some comfy gucci gear?! 😄 And in regards to the thread just put some money into a Vector Optics PSO ready for my next rifle and my AAP-01 should be here in a week
  25. @Steveocee this is the one, cheers @Skara.
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