Adolf Hamster

just "used" gives me cardboard boxes?

i suppose i'm coming from the viewpoint that a hop rubber replacement is pretty run of the mill maintenance, i tend not to do it often but then i also tend not to have a gun in the same config long enough for wear to really be an issue. the curse of the serial tinkerer......

ptw mags?

in fairness, a hop rubber is a wear item anyway, and given the price of them longevity shouldn't be a massive concern all things considered. i must admit while i don't use silicone these days, when i did i can concur that it never seemed to be an issue when as you say it clears up after a few rounds. hence why i ended up just going dry- split the difference but i'm not convinced either method is really an issue unless done to the extremes.

suppose i should clarify- doesn't have to be a fireable replica. as much as i'd love an old school cap&ball revolver for pewing afaik they basically don't exist.

think that was from negative airsoft where i heard it originally, sounds like a good idea, not tried it myself. main downside i can see is it isn't that handy for guns where the barrel isn't easily removable (read: pretty much everything bar an m4) my normal go-to is a strip of microfibre on your standard issue plastic cleaning rod, just run through dry.

here ya go: https://www.sofmilitary.co.uk/1851-colt-navy-revolver-pistol-by-denix.html doesn't specifically need to be a navy model, just the old school open-frame colts in general.

figured it might be worth a quick shout on here see if anyone has any useful information. want to get a present for a mate of mine, he's a big fan of old west gear and specifically relevant he quite likes the old open-topped colt navy patterns. having a scout round seems to be denix does a model that fits the bill, nicely decorated up, but if there are any alternatives i could look at it'd be appreciated edit: title doesn't do the & symbol, i am dissapoint......

is it bad that my first thoughts are as follows: 1. that is not a pretty gun..... 2. it's airsoft innovations- a good idea, nominally well made, but it just won't work right.....

must be a long version of the scar? one of the advantages of shorter gnu's the fancy barrels are cheaper

i think i have a problem. i actually start twitching now when i see an aks74u with a 7.62 mag in it......

it does seem to be weirdly polarised the svd market. you've got the cheaper versions in KA/cyma, then the expensive versions in WE (by the time you buy mags) and RS and nothing in the middle. as much as i'm not a fan of lct these days, it would certainly be good if they could fill that gap. such a shame as for dmr purposes the svd is thoroughly under-represented despite being bloody good (surprise surprise the gun that invented the dmr concept is a good dmr) to answer the op's question a mate of mine has what we think is a king arms svd (the para model), if it is then @colinjallen's assessment seems pretty much bang on the money. however i'd probably look at cyma given you're more likely to be able to get bits for it.

I know where you're coming from but it's been the guts of a decade so dont wanna go slandering somewhere when it could be a completely different place now. I'm planning to head back myself to check it out (assuming they survive lockdown). They seemed to have the right motivation so maybe they just had as bad an understanding of physics at the time as i did.

Now there's a sentence you don't expect to read outside of the script for the next silence of the lambs sequel.......

As i mentioned in the other thread for a new gun i'd just send it back, theres nothing in that picture that looks out of place but i suspect the problem is internal with arm-piston interface. Either the ridge on the piston is worn/broken, the the arm is worn/broken, or there's just not the right angle/fit between them thats letting it ride over rather than lock into place.

also i don't think you're gonna have much traction selling a £170 gun with some not particularly high-value accessories for £290.......

it's a very tricky balance to be struck. i agree that micro-analysing over years and judging someone for a decision that by its very nature is a split-second choice made under extreme pressure (with all the human fallibility that entails) isn't good, however at the same time i do think that the accountability is needed to ensure officers don't get gung-ho. we need something to motivate them not to pull the trigger unless it is the necessary course of action.

that's your sear engagement surface, the lower part in that window is the trigger side, while the upper part is part of the assembly that holds the bolt in place. when the bolt is cocked the action of holding the piston back under spring pressure should push the upper part down until it's stopped by the lower part, pulling the trigger moves the lower part out of the way allowing it to drop firing the gun. the reason there's a window there is so you can visibly see when adjusting the trigger pull what's going on, eg how long or short a pull is required to trip the sear. it's possible to have the overlap set so light the mildest jolt could make it trip, but it looks more than enough there. i suspect your problem is more on the upper side, where the upper assembly has a hinged arm that catches on the back end of the piston.

ahh the hypocrisy, "wear face protection"- doesn't wear a covid mask.......

even if we assume everyone on-site is perfectly abiding by fps and med rules, you could still accidentally pop your head up at the wrong place and catch a round from a sniper point blank who was trying to shoot someone further away. or the much more likely scenario that some scrote rocks up with a hot gun and is blasting away and you're the poor sod who rounds the corner on him. people can and do run far in excess of limits, yes we try as a community to stamp it out but the reality is it absolutely does happen despite all our best efforts and i dunno about you but seeing is something i quite enjoy. edit: probably relevant storytime: a much younger (although not fitter) hamster when he had just started out cut his teeth at a site that had, well, a questionable standard of chrono. he didn't realize it at the time but it was pretty normal (at the time) for the site regulars to be running a tad higher (read: a lot) than the specified limits, needless to say these regulars had no qualms pumping rounds into you at point blank range and the young innocent hamster just thought this is how airsoft is- hurts like hell, it was so bad it nearly drove me out of the hobby. during this time caught a few rounds to my first ever set of mesh goggles, fortunately (by luck of the amazon special lottery alone) they were the hexmesh type rather than woven wire and just about were up to the task of resisting the impact, although not without accumulating serious dents. it took me going to a different site with a different culture to realize what was truly going on, needless to say though the experience planted the seeds both of my obsession with range but also my hatred of people who run hot, because i've experienced first hand what it's like to be an inexperienced player trying to play by the rules against those who break them (whether it was ignorance or malevolence on the site's part i don't really know hence my reluctance to name and shame in the hope that the site has changed its ways in the years since). the point is that rating against the unexpected absolutely is worthwhile, for sure if i'd only ever worn eyepro capable of surviving the rated limits and no more i'd have pretty poor depth perception......

hmm, did you get this secondhand? if it's new then better off going back to the retailer.

the general idea with the bolt gun thing is that if it can withstand the hottest thing on the field well within the distances they're allowed to operate then it'll be proof against all but the most insanely egregious users of creative game mechanics (read: spring swappers/regulator twiddlers). it's the most extreme scenario that you'd hope, if it ever happened, you'd be protected from.

tell me, does this youtuber normally wear a mask in-game? covered in leaves perchance?

when you pull it all the way back is there any kind of final click? it sounds like the sear isn't holding the piston back, meaning it's springing forward- either you're not pulling it back far enough to engage the sear or the sear is damaged/broken.