Adolf Hamster

you know they say third time's the charm, but there's always an exception to every rule. wanted section is thisaway-> https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/category/17-guns-wanted/

what's GPA?

that is what happens when you say "watch this" then try to dual weild m14's while riding a bicycle.

are you asking if a g&g gearbox will fit into a nuprol reciever? assuming your rifle is an m4 variant then yes it takes a v2 gearbox, wether the g&g will fit is a question of maybe. in airsoft the best you can hope for is "compatible ish" and you may find that it won't quite fit right needing a little adjustment to work. this is of course assuming there aren't any particular foibles of the models of gun/gearbox involved (eg bolt releases mounted either to the reciever or the gearbox)

in that case skip the caveats

so the batteries died before they were put away or have you only just noticed coming out of storage? basically a lot of airsoft pews have very very basic circuitry in them- there's a switch which is the trigger, a fuse, and the motor. a mosfet is an electronic switch which, depending on the make and model, will offer a bunch of different features. in this case, a mosfet with a battery cutoff will make the pew much easier to use (as it'll just cut the power when the battery gets too low so you can't kill the battery by over-discharging), it'll also preserve the trigger contacts making them last much longer. others may chime in with their own suggestions, but something like this: https://gatee.eu/products/programmable/nanohard has a battery cutoff others may have better/cheaper recommendations from the other brands. of course installing one isn't a trivial thing, requiring disassembly and some soldering skills, so getting a tech to install it would be the best option- folks on here might be able to suggest somewhere good based on your location. as i mentioned previously you can get away without this, but i wouldn't suggest it for a kid who's not had much experience with these things. whilst i've heard of this being done, it's not something i'd wanna try even myself, even if you save it you'll end up with a weakened battery. yes (with a caveat). the rule of thumb i generally go by is 1C charge rate, so whatever the mah capacity is in ma (in this case 1.3a), this gives a 1 hour theoretical charge time (bit longer in reality for the balancing stage). batteries can sometimes take more than this (the rc guys for example tend to want faster charge rates when they're out playing) and the batteries can be rated to take it, although it does wear them out quicker. for airsoft purposes though charge time can simply be solved by more batteries on the day and being organised enough to remember to keep them charged, so no benefit to pushing them harder.

you get used to it. although i suspect post lockdown i'll be sticking with the jg for a while got some CZ stuff off a mate is pretty good stuff, although it's pretty much a case of pick your favourite of the myriad gun oils/preservatives. just a spray on and a good wiping with a rag tends to bring it up a treat unless it's really been let go.

couple of questions, what do you mean by "little use", and do either of those guns have mosfets in them? reason i ask is a lipo battery will be killed by over-discharging, which in airsoft terms is continuing to try and fire until it just won't cycle. some mosfets have built-in cutoffs that mean you can just fire away and the mosfet will stop the gun from running once the battery has drained. whilst you can get away with running a gun on a lipo with no cutoff, it's really not recommended especially for newer/younger players as in the best case you'll kill the battery (as i suspect might have happened here), worst case burn something. as for higher voltage/capacity there's 2 answers: voltage it depends, the gun will run faster, which isn't bad in and of itself however it might push it fast enough to cause problems depending on the setup, often for a stock gun this isn't too bad but it is something to consider. capacity there's really no drawback to having more, as long as the battery physically fits in the gun (generally more capacity tends towards a physically bigger/more expensive battery)

good to be pleasantly surprised then. kinda funny how i was kinda obsessive about getting my m4 super lightweight (within the limits of believability at least), but i like my ak's with a bit of heft to them. dunno if you've already heard about it, but be prepared to be fighting the ol' rust, they do need to be kept clean and oiled (unless rusty is what you're going for)

yeah e&l's are not exactly subtle when it comes to the weight department.

can confirm their 6.02 stainless is very nearly pdi performance. but the pricetag sure aint..... op- assuming you're relatively new to the whole pew tinkering scene (if i'm wrong disregard), best option for a barrel is to keep to the original length, a longer barrel doesn't mean much for performance compared to the myriad other things going on inside an airsoft pew. ie don't get fooled into thinking you need a longer barrel for accuracy/range. i wouldn't normally suggest messing with a stock gun, especially if you have no backup, but if you're dead set on swapping the barrel anyway, it's a perfect opportunity to do some hop work while you're at it. the g&g green is pretty good as stock rubbers go, so if you're on a budget don't worry about it, but if you've got the cash to drop in a ml macaron+omega nub combo while changing the barrel you might as well. good for lifting heavier ammo which will give you boost to practical range/accuracy.

in my defence, still lockdown over here, no pewing till the 23rd always fun having a game where kids act like men and men act like kids.

urgh, but that would require effort. i didn't spend years trying to extract every last drop of practical range from my pews just so i'd have to expend energy pumping up an air tank or dodging return fire......

you say that, but most places charge to refill a dive tank. damn capitalists.......

if memory serves @sjhirst did some service work on a balystik reg, think there was even a video. although your mileage may vary with different reg designs.

understandable, easy to get carried away sometimes. always that disconnect between having the occasional chuckle at non-pc humour and your own heartfelt beliefs at the best of times, and the internet isn't the greatest for easily telling the difference, especially out of context.

yeah, it was a clever adjustment of the terminology for sure. understandable, guess this is starting to stray into tricksy territory. i suppose to clarify i was mostly exaggerating for the humour (as i assume was druid), when it comes to airsoft by the time everyone's decked up in camo, webbing, face pro etc you can barely tell the difference anyway and what folk get up to behind closed doors ain't my concern.

i think it means you're either a male, female, both, or neither depending on how you feel at any given moment. but then my source for this was trolling the character creation in south park tfbh so probably mildly innaccurate.....

and now i'm conflicted between both imagination and memory battling to decide which of those gets to give me ptsd.....

isn't that most triggers are non-binary aka trans? and of course bullpup triggers are gender fluid, unless they're 2-stage which is bisexual i think. i mean i lost the track of this somewhere around 2011.....

this is why there's 2fa- just in case your finger slips 10 times for each key of your password

indeed, anyone investing in a gbb akm is gonna want a proper steel reciever, afaik even WE got the memo on that one...... the m4 i suppose they can get away with because it's a popular platform and meant to be made of aluminium anyway.

ain't that just the question...... you can get the geoffs in bags of 3000, although you'll be wincing every shot: https://www.outdoorandtactical.co.uk/product/geoffs-precision-bbs-0-40g-3000-white

5fps doesn't sound too bad, not perfect but good enough. could be the preload difference compared to whatever you had it in previously, say a shorter box with thrust bearings on spring guide and piston compared to only one here. i'm guessing by the targets you're going for this is going to be a dmr platform, and the titan suggests precocking, in which case having thrust bearings on both ends isn't the worst option (i tend to avoid running piston bearings on auto guns to save piston weight/avoid pme but that's not relevent in a semi-only pew)

sounds like you've tested all the normal ports of call with air seal- cool idea trying it with the barrel mounted on the gearbox imma pinch that one. whats the fps consistency like? if you've got good static seal (which it sounds like you do) and there's not much variation in the fps on the chrono then i'd be inclined in this case to be thinking that the spring maybe isn't as strong as it claims to be. edit: also worth chrono'ing with the hop on a tad (for whatever weight you normally run or therebouts), if it's completely off can give bad readings.