Adolf Hamster

Tbf you've just described the exact circumstances that are going on in that photo.

Its a case of trial and error for *most* hop units. You can do a lot by looking down the barrel with the hop on slightly and doing it by eye but even then its not perfect. Its the one reason to consider a more premium unit like a maxx or combat union as the manufacturing and tolerances make for a setup that sits square without hassle.

Bought an hpa'd e&l from a fella on here which was a damn fine gat.

i dunno, ever seen the sort of stuff the yanks use for their 2/3 gun matches? plenty of tyres, wooden barricades etc in play.

Fair point, i mean if i coulda got new prices.......

maybe the nozzle? tends to be one of the few things i tend to replace on cyma/jg boxes.

if it shoots straight no point worrying what the barrel is meant to be. stock wobble you can try a thin strip of rubber glued under the catch so that when locked it's wedging the stock into the catch.

eh, by the time you worked it all out and did the usual 60% it wasnt far off. such a niche gun i'm surprised it sold at all

I sold an hpa'd mg42 for only £30 more lol....

Yeah, always worth checking you've got decent tooth engagement. The other fun one is the idler not being true, always notice a little wobble in them. As for noise, my current theory is the metal of cheaper boxes seems to be better at dampening or something, only way i can explain how a jg box seems to sound smooth as silk even with minimal fucks given to shimming.

Ive done it before a few times, although it can depend on the gears/box is the optimal pinion position suits with the rest of the build. Usually i try to shim the sector/idler as close to the left half of the box as i can get away with which reduces things like tappet plate interferance and gives you the most headroom for moving the bevel to where it's needed. Bearing in mind its not just the shimming, using a mis-matched pinion/bevel (eg an asg pinion onto an shs bevel) means you could get noise no matter what. Even using a fully matched set you could get backlash if the positions of the gears in the box dont match up right, one of the reasons why even a good set of gears could have issues in a certain box.

With a warfet in semi it wont really matter, the precocking will do more than the nominal voltage. It will make a difference to auto fire but without knowing the specifics of the gun its hard to gauge which would be more appropriate. Either way, the highest c rating and capacity in a battery that physically fits in the gun is fine.

Typical government sheeple, do you not realise they can track you down now you've registered it?

<i_sense_heresy.png> although in fairness whilst camo can help, it's certainly not necessary and plenty of folk actively choose not to wear it for (insert perfectly valid reason). i do agree on good boots though, especially for outdoor sites, indeed i'd argue they're more important for comfortable enjoyment of the game than a premium gnu.

the problem is that a binary trigger effectively doubles your rate of fire. regardless of wether or not it's a titan'd dsg wanker gun build of an hpa hose, in semi you can only acheive so many presses per second. problem is, these guns can often cycle much much faster than the players ability to pull the trigger meaning the human element is the cap on the effective rate of fire. you put a binary trigger in the mix and you've not only doubled the rate of fire but also made it impossible to fire just 1 round. in both the real steel and airsoft world a binary trigger's sole purpose is to creatively skirt rules about fully automatic fire.

Theres the ipsca crowd do something like that. Would be good for somewhere to send folks who want to shoot stuff but not get shot back

Agreed, if you arent trying to lift tje super heavies in a northern winter the 60 is fine.

yep, looks good to me. not tried the MR-hop but the i've used the 50 degree macaron's to lift .48's at 1j.

This is what the whole 2-tone thing is meant to acheive, keyword: "meant to"

i was meaning in general sympathising with folk who want to start up this hobby but can't afford to. of course in this case it's very much taking the mick, especially when his criteria are "a reliable gun that doesn't break", well get a cyma ak then.....

Whilst i sympathise with the guy, there are countless people who want to take up a hobby but cant afford to, why should we help him specifically get his dream gun, especially if he's apparently too proud to run a budget gun? Theres asking for charity and theres taking the piss, this is very much the latter.

what is it you're wanting done? because tbh you might be better off doing it yourself, fitting a drop-in kit like an F2 is nowhere near as obnoxious as doing aeg based tech work. granted you need a chrono, but the tuning ain't so bad either.

*checks code* yep that's £90 off my windowshopping basket......

the ultimate series are pretty decent imo, only problem is any issues in the box and the motor will just keep on chugging whilst ripping apart anything that tries to stop it. £380 for an lct ak with no noteworthy alterations? sure the cyma ak mags are good mags but they aren't exactly expensive either......

not sure how comfortable i am with the words "hot glue", "piston", "grease" and "rubbery plug" appearing in the same sentence. and it's not just from a purely technical standpoint.....