Skara

You can't use an aftermarket adjustable trigger unless you're willing to dremel some material off the holster or you keep the stock adjustment.

I use a Deadly Customs dedicated holster. https://deadlycustoms.co.uk/product/action-army-aap-01-kydex-dc1-series-holster-2/ this is for the stock plastic upper https://deadlycustoms.co.uk/product/action-army-aap-01-kydex-dc1-series-holster-black-mamba-kit-version/ this (the one I have) is for the Black Mamba upper. These don't allow you to use a torch, there are other DC options for that, just look around the website. Quality wise they're awesome, very secure fit (almost too tight) so you won't lose your gun nor your mags in the field.

Had a fun day yesterday, Got some training in for the upcoming national finals (held in two weeks) and we even got another club to join us. Much sweat was produced due to high temperatures at around 25°, but the physical training we've been doing is paying off, I didn't feel tired at all after navigating through thick vegetation all morning. Kit wise I ran my Templars battle belt, without suspenders. It's heavy (especially loaded with 4 mags and all the utility tools I have), but it doesn't drag my pants down (it's connected 5o my trousers via Velcro, the main reason I picked the PT-4 instead of the PT-1). That, coupled with my TT essential pack makes for a very agile loadout since it give my fat body plenty of range of motion. I do need to buy a couple of 45mm triglides because the Helikon cobra buckle tends to lose its adjustment every once in a while. Guns: used both M4s, longboi has lost some power (0.85J atm) so I will need to open it up and fix it, the shorter one instead gained some power, it was 0.98/0.97J and now it's 1.01/1.02 😕 so I will have to remove the piston head bearing to keep it within my limit. Also 30 RPS is fun, even though on 0.32s it can get expensive.

You could also knock teeth off the sector (pickup side). This will leave the original spring in, at its original length, while improving cycle time and moreover it costs nothing. I take it it's more stuff to do than simply shortening a spring, but in my experience a spring that is too short leads to PME and other issues that could be avoided by operating on a different component.

2nd game after the summer break. It feels like we're still in full summer, damn climate change! Regarding the game, we had a "training" session to prepare for the national finals at the end of the month. Had one instance where one of the new guys wasn't keen on taking a hit, but nothing a good burst couldn't fix the game after. Also I'm so out of shape (not that I was before).

We have our own private field, so does every club. As long as you're under the same federation, there is no extra fee.

Zero, we pay a yearly insurance and club subscription fee (ours is €70) and that's it. For tournaments we usually pay around €20/person for the short ones and about 30/35 for the 8h+ ones.

Every Sunday, but then again I live in a different country with different costs

15° isn't warm but it's still well within the operating temperature range of an AAP. Both of mine work flawlessly down to near 0° temps on WE mags and Green Gas. The "upgraded" nozzle return spring doesn't do anything for feeding except pulling the nozzle away from the hop chamber faster/harder. Did the gun lock back on an empty mag on the field? Which mags are you using? AA mags aren't that great, they behave well with TM guns but on the AAP they tend to lose some power (compared to WE mags).

Also, make sure you have the correct length nozzle, sometimes they can feed/seal fine while still being off spec (meaning they'll seat the BB in the wrong place, leading to inconsistencies and weird trajectories).

Is the hop rubber new? Or have you used it already? Prommy purples *were* good hop rubbers but now I think there is no point in using them anymore, Maple Leaf ones are much better at lifting 0.28g+ BBs and are cheaper.

I think @Asomodairuns one!

Seems like you already know what you want, so why don't you build your own dream gun? This is my main gun now, it started as a Specna C-02 and over time I pretty much replaced everything bar the polymer body. I wanted low weight and performance, couldn't (still can't) give a fuck about looks, 6.7" front end with a 7" inner barrel in a sub 2kg (w battery and mag) package. Not the most extreme in terms of RPS (22/30 with 7.4v/11.1v respectively) but lifts 0.32s up to 60/65 metres at 0.98J of energy and is rather efficient thanks to a Warhead motor. It has a slightly longer and heavier brother which started its life as a Specna C-08 and now looks like this: Pretty much identical in terms of mechanical parts, the only difference is the barrel length (this one's 10")

Wanker purchases, AAP edition: 1x CTM V2 Advanced Bolt in red; 1x CTM Ultralight Bolt in black with the CTM SS fire selector thingy. All from the EU warehouse of AirsoftWorld. Let the BRRRRRRRT begin

A delayer chip might help, but look for these ones from FPS, they keep the "opening" point in roughly the same spot, while delaying the "closing" point. Depending on the motor, you may want to nick a few millimetres off the end of the tappet plate fin to make the nozzle seal in time too

Stock 129mm, I'm limited to 0.99J in Italy so it doesn't make sense to go longer since it's already borderline hot. Range on GG and 0.30s we're at about 60/65 metres, could push further with 0.4s but at 1J they're just too slow for anything that's not a paper target

I have one and: It's stupid expensive but imo it's the best option if you want to turn your aap into a carbine, mostly because it replaces the plastic upper allowing for more rigidity. The other kits either use the stock upper as a connector piece or wrap around it, while it may be cheaper it's not as precise as the TTI. The kit comes with buffer tube adapter that takes both AEG and GBB tubes, but you can also use the AA folding stock (you'll need to use the TTI bridge otherwise the rail won't sit flush). The upper comes with a threaded portion for your AEG handguard (TTI says it's also GBB/RS compatible but I sadly can't test this) and a small barrel stub that is just enough to cover the stock 129mm barrel, but should you wish you can replace it for an M4 barrel of your desired length. It has a built-in TDC that works really well, although the only negative is that it has clicks and may or may not have the perfect hop adjustment for your liking, but this can be sorted easily. I have set mine up as a SMG, with a G&G ARP-9 handguard and AA folding stock, but it can be used as a pocket dmr as well because the range is just silly, even at 1J with a 129mm inner.

If it can handle 30/35 I'll be happy, also considering how fussy ak high caps are, I don't think I'll ever run past 25. Meanwhile I found this chart where it says that an E&L ak requires a #6 nozzle

Interesting. Worst case I'll just chop it off on a lathe (21.25mm M4 AEG nozzle, 20.70mm E&L ak nozzle) or try and figure out what the fuck those guys want for measures. Balystic SMR200 reg decent? Or should I stick with the cheaper HPR800C all the kits come with? Can both withstand wanker rofs? (Not that I plan to, but once in a while it's okay to be a wanker)

It's going into a 247x6.02mm barrel build at 1J, so yeah low flow poppet may be required. Nozzle length is going to be interesting, since it's a Cyma but runs on E&L length nozzle/hop unit (mistakes were made) and I guess P* chart is in imperial, not metric.

Yup, you read it right, I may finally cave in and spend an inconsiderate amount of money on a HPA engine for my AK. Now, EU prices for bundles are all about €650ish for a balystic smr200 regulator, 0.8L alu bottle, braided line of the most disgusting colour scheme and the choice of engine between the good ol' Redline N7 (the slightly cheaper option), P* F2 and Wolverine Inferno. Which one would you choose and why? My goal is to make the ak usable with a relatively high level of efficiency for a 240mm barrel, will be using it mostly in full auto and high caps, with maybe one or two sparse games here and there with midcaps.

I've destroyed so many hex heads I should be trialled for crimes against humanity. Torx heads are the way to go For pistol grips especially I still prefer the good old Phillips screws tho

Nice Bonsai Bagheera you got there ❤️