Skara

Well... I don't see the point of carrying (even if it's from the car trunk to the SZ table) that thing around. An Odin (proper one, not the cheapy clones) will do the same job for most likely less than half the price, it has a rebuild kit available if something breaks, can be "silenced" and can be stored inside a double M4 pouch or a backpack without too much hassle. Plus nowadays there are plenty of adapters for most magazines, even though the OG airtech universal is still king. It's also one more battery to remember..

Test no.2 Shortening 4 coils (two on each side) of the tappet spring alleviated some of the power loss issue, along with a slightly stiffer spring (shs m110 + a spring guide spacer) and a smidge more air volume by running a different cylinder the gun now does 94-96 m/s on semi and full auto on a 7.4v (20 RPS), but still drops to 92/93 on a 11.1v at 37 RPS. The following animation shows what I believe to be happening inside the gearbox, nozzle starts to retract while the piston is still moving.... So I'm thinking, what if I knock off a tooth off the release side(s)? This way the piston releases a tiny bit earlier which in turn gives it more time to hit the cylinder head before the nozzle is pulled back. Thoughts?

Alright. First test shows 37.3 RPS, 85 m/s on semi but 60 in full auto @11.1v, which shows that: a) it feeds on the g&g drum; b) I have to adjust the tappet timing because the results indicate that the piston is being released when the nozzle is still moving forward, I will cut the fin half a millimetre shorter, shorten the tappet spring and, just for testing purposes, slightly modify the tappet pickup point to have it delayed by a tiiiiiiiny bit, just to rule out tappet PME.

Decided to swap handguards between the 7" M4 and the 9mm PDW, now they colour match a litlle better with the rest of the components. Also a little sneak peek into the PDW's gearbox.. W - ⚓- 🔫level over 9000 as @Rogerborgonce said...

'nother update. I'm turning this into a DSG, for maximum wanker factor and because I'm bored. I have the following parts coming: Shs dsg sector + tappet plate Modify spring spacer Retro arms dsg piston body. I'm keeping everything else intact, hopefully I can make it work.

Welp... SHS DSG sector gear + tappet plate Retro Arms DSG piston Modify spring guide spacer Couple of anti reversal latches (I keep chewing them).. Looks like I'm well deep into wanker gun territory now

Ohhh, another one I wish that collapsible stock/top rail was available for purchase, I could really use it on mine

Last weekend we took part to the National Finals... A 26h nonstop game that lasted from 8 AM on Saturday to 10 AM on Sunday. 1200-1700m above sea level elevation. Overall performance wasn't the best but we didn't really care, we went for the experience, in any case we ended up 15th out of the 20 strongest teams in country.. Few things learned (kinda, some I already knew): - the right clothing is crucial to not end up like a popsicle, in particular it got VERY cold Saturday night/early Sunday morning with temperatures just above 0°. I had packed a puffy jacket just in case and it turned out to be a lifesaver during pauses from marching/playing. Started with just my combat shirt on, added my thermal baselayer and windshirt at dusk and kept it this way throughout the night. A beanie was used too, whereas my gloves stayed in the backpack at all times. - thermal sights are OP, in fact combat objectives went so much better at night than during the day.. NV would have been nice in some instances, but we made do without. - I need a lighter poncho, the one I have is so heavy I left it in the car (took the gore-tex shell instead), on Saturday morning we had rain so heavy it felt like I had jumped in a pool in full kit luckily it was windy too, so I dried up pretty quickly.. - with these temperatures I only drank 3 litres of water in total. - Proper boots do make the difference, I don't think I would have been able to get to the end with my old Crispis... The new La Sportivas are much lighter, much softer on road/paths and definitely more breathable. - I barely ate anything, just one energy bar and some dried fruit along with a hot dog at our own objective (sort of a one-use safe space).. - New backpack is awesome, it's the right size for these events (15 litres) while being mega comfortable. We still have plenty of room for improvement, should we qualify next time we'll try to be more motivated and more prepared, both physically and mentally.

nobody said anything about the hop up rubber.........

take smol cylinder, take very sharp knife, get them to know each other.... profit.

You need to slightly trim the rubber cylinder.. don't overdo it it's less than half a millimetre (don't ask how I know)

Probably because there is less "length" to go wrong compared to a longer one. In the wall of text I deleted I mentioned how my 5" M4 is way more consistent than it was with a 10" barrel, essentially achieving the same, if not slightly more range. And the 5" is just a cut down and recrowned Guarder barrel I had while the 10" is a prommy 6.05...

I was going to write a wall of text to respond and debunk, but... If a long barrel is betterer than a short barrel, then explain the Mk23...

As if I didn't have enough kit... https://eberlestock.com/products/bandit-pack Bought this in "military green", hopefully I can test it before the upcoming national finals, it'll replace the Tasmanian Tiger Essential..

Eeh, first game after summer break went well. Nothing interesting to say about performance, I've had the shits all week and I'm not in top shape, but I'm glad I managed to play and not turn into a puddle of feces. Gun/gear wise, finally tested the new pdw and yeah, I'm happy with it. Throws 0.32s over there at 27 RPS with a reasonable degree of efficiency, considering it's running a 3t short stroke and a M95 spring.

Go to your local retailer and ask for a boneyard V2 gearbox.. Though you may want to add a lower receiver and pistol grip so that you can learn and experiment with the whole mechanical system assembled

Certified dreamer moment: Managed to sell the SMERSH for €150 posted.... I paid 70 for it....

Slap an LEP bulb inside and burn someone's retinas

The SHS nozzles I bought a while ago were supposed to be 21.3 but they turned out to be 21.5 and change.. Length also depends on the hop unit, hop rubber and inner barrel, some combinations love short nozzles, others want longer. For example the Maxx TE hop I have in my pdw says it wants 21.25mm tops but ran fine on the aforementioned 21.5mm shs nozzle for a while.

Plenty of threads already on sorting out the power and various issues. It could be the cylinder (doubt it, that thing should be good up to 360mm barrels), it could be the nozzle timing, nozzle length, nozzle air seal, hop unit fitment, hop rubber lips, general compatibility between these parts. Could be the tappet plate, delayer chip, tappet plate spring, tappet plate compatibility with the gearbox shell, number of teeth removed off the sector gear..... All the info we have is the cylinder size and barrel length.. I reckon it's time to write an article on the matter and then copypasta it everywhere....

Must be the King Arms box being a little off spec. Had a similar issue when trying to fit a Retro Arms gearbox inside my now deaded KA PDW. It went in a little weird. Lancer Tactical should use the same OEM as Specna, Dboys and such, so I expect them to be pretty much as standard as it gets whereas King Arms seems to be doing its own thing altogether.

Last night game of the season is over, games were slow because the area we played in had thick canopy coverage so it was nigh on impossible to see anything (well I could hehe).. So no Airsoft for me until September where we have a 27h game on the first weekend and the national finals on the last. In the meantime I'll try to source some NV..

So, this new gun. magazine wise it doesn't like stock high caps, there is a bit of wobble and I have to move them around to "feed" 5/6 BBs before needing to wind them again. Absolutely flawless on the G&G ARP-9 drum, it sits very tight (actually needs a tap to lock in place) but feeds every BB, specna midcaps are okay although the one I have seems to have a too weak retention tooth, first time I loaded it some bbs went flying, feeds fine. I have tried the bevel to pinion shimming method on this one, unfortunately the amp meter I have doesn't want to register semi auto, spamming the trigger showed 20 amps, while full auto showed 20 at startup, then 12 still going down. This on a 11.1v 1450mAh 60c. Energy and rof are 1.25J and 27 rps. Cycling in semi is quick. Setup is: RA gearbox Perun Hybrid Wanker Maxx adjustable trigger Zci 22tpa Rocket 13:1 gears SS'd by two at the front SHS m110 (m120 really) Type B cylinder (for 200-250mm barrels) Knackered shs nozzle, to be replaced with an FPS one Maxx TE hop unit ML 70° Super Macaron Prommy 6.05x208 barrel Range/consistency wise I've only briefly tested it yesterday night on 0.25s, range seems okay but there is a weird horizontal spread that I will have to address somehow.

how so?