Skara

It's not much about the hop rubber but rather the hop unit. If I'm not mistaken G&G rotary hop units have a clicking retainer that helps with.....well....retaining the hop up adjustment. One option is to try a hop unit that doesn't have said clicking retainer so you can fine tune the adjustment, ZCI plastics are cheap enough to give them a try. Another option is to shave a tiny bit of material off the tensioner, so that when you click it in "too much" setting, it'll hop slightly less and give you the adjustment you want... it's a bit trial and error with this one.

I suggest to stick to the AR platform.. I know they're boring and it'd be just another M4 variant in an ocean of M4 variants, but the fact it's so widespread means that there are many, many parts to pick from and the gun itself can be customized both in performance and looks/ergonomics, something that unfortunately is not always possible with other less common platforms (MP5/P90). Specna C-10 is also a good alternative to the Evolution mentioned above, just make sure you don't buy the PDW stock version, those stocks are unnecessarily heavy and offer very little battery space (you can buy extended tubes but it defies the whole concept of the pdw stock while adding even more weight). You can worry about the internals later, when you have acquired enough experience to understand what you want from your AEG. Please keep in mind that while they provide a decent base to build your dream gun on, out of the box performance will not be great. This is true for pretty much every AEG.

W-⚓-?

You can change the barrel and handguard on any M4 to the desired length, but you're just starting out so you're better off with an off the shelf short gun. Go for polymer receivers too, they save a lot of weight and cost. Evolution is decent, on par with Specna and Dboys (their polymer body series all come from the same factory, so pick whatever you like). I would personally stay away from the 9mm platform unless you REALLY like the looks, magazines tend to be kind of bad and they're not always cross compatible between brands, whereas regular M4 mags are essentially universal, plus you have plenty of options depending on budget. On the technical side, barrel length doesn't do much in terms of range/accuracy so I wouldn't think too much about it (all my V2 based guns have barrels 155/185mm long).

The declared values are nominal, without any load applied. The actual RPM under load depends on a lot of factors, spring rating, gear ratio, shimming, ETU, wire gauge, battery voltage, battery current and so on. Generally it's impossible to achieve 100% efficiency to the declared value unless said value is not true. For example my 36k warheads are 25k nominal on 7.4v but the actual RPM under load is closer to 20k rpm. Most ETUs control the rate of fire by sending semi auto impulses at different frequencies which, as Lozart mentioned, doesn't affect the actual cycle time of the motor/gearbox. For example, if your gun cycles in 25 milliseconds (netting a FA rof of 40 RPS), full auto at 50% won't make the gun cycle in 50 milliseconds, but rather cut the cycles in half (so 25 millisecond cycle, 25 millisecond delay, 25 millisecond cycle and so on to achieve a "finished" rate of fire of 20 RPS).

Well it's not that easy to build a performing AEG out of the blue without any teching experience. First of all you need to set a goal (rps, energy and such), then you need to understand how things work inside the gearbox before even looking at a website to buy things. Plenty of guides around the internet, watch them and learn the theory behind teching. Only after you've done all of this, you can look at your gun and check if you can actually achieve your goal with that or if you are better off buying a second gun.

39k brushless motor + 13:1 gears, in that long of a barrel... Have fun destroying all your internals

Skirmshop sells halo/nano screen, I'd use Theyma only if bulk buying one specific tone/material.

That indicates that either the nozzle is too long or the hop rubber lips are. Is the hop rubber stock? Borderline impossible, there is a guide on the right side of the gearbox the plate runs onto, it keeps the plate from bending and doing what you described. In any case the plate would have to bend so much it would snap in half regardless.

That nozzle bouncing back and forth doesn't look normal, but it could be me. If you turn the gun upside down and place a bb on the feed tube (without pushing it down) and fire a shot, does it drop in the right position?

Is the gun ICS oem or you just happen to have a ICS plate? Judging by the length of the stock nozzle I guess it's the former. Are you using a delayer chip of any kind? Tappet plates do wear out with time, the front of the fin (the only part that touches the sector gear, at least in theory) gets hammered with each cycle and some manufacturers insist on making these out of cheese (ICS is one of them), so it could be worn out to the point it doesn't fully retract anymore which in turn prevents it from feeding. All of this happens more quickly with higher ROF guns. Get some pictures so we all can have a better understanding of what's going on.

For high caps buy Lonex Flash mags. Best high capacity M4 magazine out there, fits and feeds on most M4s even at 30+ RPS, pulling the cord makes more noise than winding the wheel but you only need to do it once, maybe twice, for the whole 360 rounds. Midcaps are okay if you don't use full auto (or can't due to site rules) but generally they end up being more expensive, especially when you look into quality mags and a proper Odin speedloader. I almost exclusively run the aforementioned Lonex high caps, have yet to hear the infamous battle rattle unless I'm vigorously shaking the gun or I'm tumbling down a hill like a sack of shit (thankfully the latter hasn't happened.....yet), also if I'm sprinting somewhere it means that stealth has already gone to hell and the tiny bit of extra noise isn't going to make things any worse. But I do understand the "realism" aspect of changing magazines more often. Also keep in mind that 200+ round midcaps require a REALLY good speedloader (genuine Odin, or one of those newer electric ones) and that once you get past the 150rnd mark you start experiencing heavy midcap syndrome.

Very good day. 13 people on the field, which allowed for the short-type tournament setup (8 attackers, 5 defenders). Games went smooth until the last second where supposedly some blatant cheating happened, but I wasn't there to confirm and all I got were reports from a couple of people. The thundercunt in question is not new to cheating, our MO when dealing with this behaviour is to first have a chat with the person in private, then have a "public" chat in front of everyone and the third and final step is to kick said person out. We've already gone through steps one and two, I will have a final chat with him tonight because I believe in 2nd chances and should he resort to this shitty behaviour again, well, he knows where the door is. But anyway, tested the new perun speeder V2 and I definitely have set it way too sensitive, i must have shimmed the trigger too tight as well because it wasn't always properly resetting. Nonetheless the "touch screen" trigger is very, very fun to use. Adjusting it is not a quick "do it on the field" job, none of the adjustments can be done with a fully assembled gun and at a bare minimum the gearbox needs to come out of the receiver. I don't mind because I needed to check a few things anyway. Also need to service my 9yo battered Lonex mags, they are finally starting to fail after being neglected on purpose. Kit wise, Mayflower Gen 4 still remains the king of chest rigs, plenty of space and the padded MissionSpec straps are a godsend.

Very good! Added a flat 6x3 admin pouch to the front so I can have my phone, leatherman and game documents at hand. Was considering a small dangler too but I'm going to wait for now, don't want to have too much capacity and overload it. The only pic I have of the full kit (yes it's a Decathlon skate helmet, I have a rather substantial noggin and I can't fit it in 99% of the Airsoft helmets out there). Also yes I'm fat.

1st place out of 15 teams at yesterday's CQB tournament (not speedsoft).. An environment we are definitely not used to, but I guess breaching rooms and storming in like animals paid off. 5 objectives in 5 buildings with rooms, stairs, long hallways, people complimented on how much covering fire we laid down while advancing and how violent we were in pushing. Hit calling was good for the most part, only had one instance where I got taken out by a defender after hitting him repeatedly in the face (saw BBs bouncing off his eye pro) but hey, ref wasn't there to confirm so nothing I could do about it (crying about hit calling during tournaments usually ends badly with a ton of points lost). Another odd occurrence in the last objective, shot a guy from almost point blank in semi, as he turned around to shoot back at me I flicked to binary and well.. we traded.. let's just say he wasn't too happy about my gun's performance ?? Kit used: DSG speedwanker gun AAP01 (never used) F9 Ammo Hub FRV belt w/ DC holster Pentagon flat pack clone Really enjoyed how comfortable the drop stock is, coupled with the very low weight of the rifle. Also happy with battery efficiency on semi, used about 50% of a 7.4v 1800mAh 50/100c while firing about 2100 BBs (6x360) in semi/binary. Unfortunately my M600 repro torch decided to fuck itself almost instantly but I can't blame it, the thing soldiered through years of abuse and shit weather. I have an AliExpress OKW clone coming in now, thing is marketed as "tight spotlight beam". Overall a surprisingly fun day.

All "intelligent" FCUs are on 100% of the time so they have a very slight battery draining effect. In practice the effect is negligible and there shouldn't be such a massive drop in battery "life". There is definitely something off in that RIF, could be the Aster (not the best Gate FCU to be fair), could be the shimming (iirc you had issues with it), could be the motor height (goes in pair with shimming) or it could be the motor that's about to die (something I've seen fairly often lately, only with G&G motors). Also, for the love of God stop buying such tiny batteries. They don't provide nowhere near enough amps to let the motor do its thing and because of that they get stressed A LOT. If your RIF can't accomodate bigger batteries, get a buttstock that can fit them.

Keep the EVO and have fun, no point in downgrading to a G&G. Specna FX-01 is okay for the cost but it does surely need tuning to make it cqb worthy. Not to the extent I have gone for (brushless DSG build that pumps out 42 RPS on a 11.1v 1450mAh 30c), but certainly needs a new motor, FCU and compression set. Maybe a set of 13:1s.

I'm in their discord server, they seem to care a lot about QC and performance... Shame that they're not available in Europe..

Piston mass has an impact on JC too. I run pretty heavy piston assemblies in my guns (even in DSGs) and the increment in energy when running 0.3/0.32s, especially when applying hop, is enough to get laughed at when I chrono at tournaments.. on 0.2s, with hop off (as per rule set) all my guns chrono at roughly 0.75/0.8J, but then on "game setup" I'm pretty damn close to the 1J limit I have, sometimes even too close... But hey, rules are rules huh? Also yes it's pointless to use 0.2s even indoors, 0.25 is the absolute lightest I use, with 0.28/0.30/0.32 being the most common bb weight I run. Better trajectory, better effective range, less spread way over there.

if you own a wider/slightly shorter inner barrel you could temporarily swap it until the energy stabilizes.

IPSC game today. Cracked out the Glock for its first outing (had it since 2021 or so) and it broke almost immediately, hammer is not resetting properly anymore and I need to take it apart. AAP on hpa is cracked, EPM-1S mags feed great in the monk adapter, definitely put a grin on my face. Gucci DSG M4 needs shimming revisited, sounds a touch scratchy but nothing major. I thought I could get away with iron sights but I was wrong, still need a red dot on it. As for the game, it was a IPSC style training day with a small course built in the woods, targets are A4 sized steel plates put at various distances and the vegetation allowed for tricky shots and weird firing stances. I recommend it to everyone, especially those who always complain about hit calling at range, you'll be surprised by how many people just can't shoot for shit, even with highly tuned guns.

Unfortunately without having the gearbox at hand it's impossible. Every gun wants its own setup. Adolf's guide is pretty good, you can also watch a couple of videos from YouTube (Paragon Armory one being particularly detailed). Being just 5 shims you luckily only have a "reduced" amount of possible combinations. Follow the guides and find the combination with the least drag between gears while still allowing free spin.

New handguard from MAC Airsoft. Not finished because we're waiting for a pic rail to go on top and the end caps for a small red suppressor. Next will be a set of fibre optic iron sights and a way to attach a two points sling, but I may already know how.

I have 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.3 and 0.5 mm shims, less wasted thinner ones to achieve the desired result. On a side note, 0.5mm doesn't always equal 0.2+0.2+0.1 or 0.3+0.2 or 5x0.1. Most likely the stack will be quite a bit thicker than a single 0.5 due to tolerances so there is that too to consider when shimming.

Remember that the mk23 is the size of a small SMG, especially with the suppressor on. This makes it not ideal for mounting on a belt, drop leg holsters are a no go because you'll be burying the front end into the ground every time you take a knee unless you are very tall. So you're left with chest/armpit holsters and there aren't many options available that don't involve modification. Regarding the pistol, TM is the way to go, all you need to add is a tdc cover, tensioner and hop rubber of choice, that's it. Stock gun can somehow lift up to 0.28s but can't go heavier, which is where the pistol truly shines as a pocket sniper rifle. A TDC will get 0.48s going for very silly ranges and being a NBB, once you get past the horrible trigger, means you'll be consistently hitting people at ranges above what a 1.13J AEG can reach. Magazine wise, I found TM mags to be the overall best, but I've been told the new gen 3 Nov mags are also very good, so next time I'm shopping for gbb parts I may get a few of those and transfer the TM internals (routers, feed lips, follower and springs) into them.