Skara

For 19 euros it's a steal.  I purchased the metal version a while back from AE but it didn't fit on any of the uppers 😞

I mean go for it but why making ARP9 longer than it has to be? 

As for delivery, don't worry - pretty much all of my AliExpress orders over last 6 months were delivered within 1 week, bar couple exceptions taking almost three.

Because a 5" carbine is called a pistol.

Also my ARP already has a 9" front end.

I lied.

The gun somehow came back to life on its own 😕

i suspect a jam, because when I took the barrel out there was a BB stuck inside.

Gonna take it apart nonetheless to check for actual damage, at worst a new tappet plate and piston (which I already have).

If the sector is damaged I'll just swap the whole set with the stock gears from the specna.

Also installed the SHS HT into the ARP and my club's tech suggested to run the gun as it is until it dies and only then open it up to install the 13:1 set.

I'm also turning off active braking because it heats up the motor like.....a motorfucker (yay I'm funneeee)..

If the other gears are OK then just try replacing the sector only

& see how it rolls/spins/meshes perhaps

Std sectors are usually compatible - just if they mesh smoothly

If the bevel/spur are OK, shimmed OK & meshing nicely

eg: bevel to pinion, then just look to change sector

(or as little as possible)

Also some have said the std SA gears are not that robust

BUT I don't own one or a SA set myself

Yes AB is all well & good but heat can increase

on a ferrite motor, the motor continues to spin - a lot

Where as on a neodym motor, the strong magnets slow th

 motor much quicker than a ferrite motor

On "the bench" the ferrite motor spins a lot longer

The neodym motor slows much much much quicker

In reality though the spring starting to compress slows them both

But I feel the neodym motor overspins slightly less in the box

So on a neodym motor AB is not needed perhaps

A clip showing AB on & the AB off with a neodym motor

YES with AB off the motor spins more

BUT no where as much as std ferrite motor does

This is a SHS High Speed so it is spinning faster

But doesn't carry on spinning like a std motor would

Now as said, ON THE BENCH

In a gun, in actual use, the spring would slow a weak ferrite easily

So it is debatable just how big the overspin difference really is

between neodym/ferrite motors in a working gun perhaps

But I feel neodym motors only need very very slight/light AB

to stop them and even without AB they still overspin less

AB imho should be used to accurately stop the cycle on pre-cock

or when trying prevent double firing when a gun is cycling too quickly

When people use AB to prevent double firing it can be a sign of sticking switch, worn COL or most commonly just taking the piss rof

If your gun does really need AB (for set pre-cocking)

then don't or at least try not use it, or only very soft AB

I don't use AB, so any motor heat is purely down to the build itself

(than reversing the polarity at the motor)

TLDR again - yeah turn off AB if you can 

Yep, already did that on every gun I own bar the Ares as the EFCS allows for fuck all customization. I rarely use semi auto anyway and when I do it takes seconds to turn it back on (at least on the ARP)

Regarding the Ares gearbox, I have yet to open it. I might do it this Saturday, so I can also figure out a way to rewire the thing to the front. Will make a new status update once I see what's gone and what's still useable.

Thanks for the help mate!

The spring has always gone in the same way, the more tightly would coils at the spring guide end.

I heard about this theory, but when I tested it (with both springs) the results were the same.

1.05/100, 0.64/90

The gun could be creeping a bit, haven't chronoed on 0.2s to be fair.

Specs change but SP90 seems irregular at one end...

slightly tighter at one end than the other

so you "should" have got some difference

compared to a regular spring...

(which should be same either way round)

Some other irregular springs are tighter in middle

AND one of the ends are tighter than the other...

Honestly the way the spring is fitted can make a difference

(as said I've flipped a spring to squeeze another 10fps more than once)

The SP90 or SP100 should just be tighter at one end

so should have made some slight difference

BUT like I said specs can change and be a different spring

or most likely just them qwirky airsoft gremlins

as said these spring/power stuff doesn't always follow logic

Probably why Mr Spock doesn't do airsoft

(his ears would be stinging as easy big target)

you got it sorted & that's all that matters

Yep, I am definitely gonna experiment more with this irregular spring theory. I've heard it in the past but never got to "play" with it.

SP100 is done but I still have the SP90 and I can always buy another SP100  after all it's €7.50, won't lose my sleep over that amount, plus having an extra spring in my spare parts drawer is always nice.

i just thought it was funny to cut a spring and gain power

Now I can SlAy ChEeTaHs on Sunday