Skara

Does it seal and feed correctly?

Shame that my triggers and short stroke kits are still somewhere in country, I don't like ripping apart guns more than necessary. But at least I got something to do tonight.

The last Action Army Black Mamba upper available (at a decent price) in Europe. It came with a 3d printed charging handle which I never asked for, but eh. Also bought a 70° MR-Hop for the T-11 to try out

Oh. Okay. Then forget about this conversation

Yes but I'm pretty sure the issue is in the nozzle/rubber matching. You could somehow fix that by applying some heat shrink to the cylinder head, so that it seals against the hop rubber's lips. Mind you that this is far from a permanent solution. It seems to be a MR only issue, decepticon/autobot rubbers are actually fine and seal properly.

Keep in mind that the MR is known for leaking, personally I haven't noticed anything major but it might be the reason for your fliers.

I need that stock

Yes, in my AK when I installed the Combat Union hop. The stock E&L nozzle was too fat and it would not go into battery (read into the hop rubber to create air seal). The CU chamber comes with its own nozzle though so it was just a matter of replacing the stock one. Since it's an aluminium nozzle you could carefully measure the inner diametre of the hop unit and turn it down to spec, you just need a drill/dremel, some really fine sandpaper and calipers. Your best bet, imo, is to find someone with a bunch of spare nozzles and try them individually on your setup.

I ordered a 70 MR for my t11 too! The 50 seems fine but given my experience on AEGs I figured I'd give it a go, maybe it'll give me a flatter trajectory. Will also need to paint mine. I don't like painting guns but I reckon it's the quicker way to not run around in the woods with a big black....stick

Externals, mostly. Metal Specna receivers seem to be somewhat flimsy and as far as furniture goes, they don't really offer much (apart from the latest E/C-20+ models and their URG-I rails, which I will buy at some point). Also one good way to cheap out is on motors and gears, this is where even the "top" brands fail, most of the times you're given ferrite motors and anemic gears (apart from E&L because they come with SHS gears and some pretty dank neo 16tpa motors that are comparable to SHS HT ones)

It's more about the slightly improved response and rate of fire over a mechanical switch than anything, trigger contacts will wear out faster but it's more likely to destroy the plastic housing than to burn the actual plates..... Unless of course you only spam that trigger in semi auto

AAAAAND I just bought the ONE remaining black mamba upper in Europe lol. It'll be here in about 48h

Keep the M130, the VSR platform creeps like a motherfucker and with a M150 and 0.4s you'll end up with a terribly hot gun.

Airsoftworld OR some HK shop. There is fuck all available in Europe for some reason. Whatever you want, the stock barrel is good out of the box, I don't see the point of swapping it.

Correct, the screws self thread into the upper's plastic. It's not a solution I like because the chances of wrecking the whole upper are high should you bash the optic onto something, but from what I see most people don't mind. Btw just saw your post on the FB group

In any case a new outer barrel is required because of the delta/gas block assembly being in the way

Reject modernity, return to xm177s

Nah, I had two Ares guns and rebuilt both gearboxes. The thing is, at some point anyone will want to up his gun's performance, but you can't really do that with Ares unless you replace the whole gearbox which kinda defies the point of buying an Ares Amoeba in the first place. YMMV of course, but this is the experience I had with my guns and a fair few other guns among teammates (tappet plates and bushings ALWAYS died within 10 skirmishes, on every single gun, at one point the local retailer stopped stocking them). Back to the OP. I say go for the Specna 2.0 of your choice, in theory they have eliminated the issues that the Edge series is known for. Or an Evo, which will run fine until it doesn't and then you're in for world of pain.

I'd go with either a MR or Super Macaron, in 70° hardness. (Super over the regular one because the patch is larger and it has those two convenient shoulders that give the rubber some extra rigidity)

Nothing special this time, just part of the kit I ran yesterday.

What BB weight are you using?

It sounds like it's been shimmed too tight. I'd play around with the motor height first

Having had the Ares Honey Badger for just over 4 years, I can definitely tell you to avoid it like the plague. It looks cool (not really, has fuck all to do with the real Q Honey Badger) but the internals are an absolute shit show. Proprietary gearbox and electronics, tinfoil thick shell, zero air seal and a super weak piston. Tappet plates and nozzles are the weakest I've ever seen and Aluminium bushings, lmao. Couple that with the worst hop rubber I've ever used, you basically pay a ton of money for mediocre parts at best and a very front heavy gun with limited battery space for the sake of a "PeEdEeVuUu" stock. I don't think there is a single AEG on the market that is truly plug and play, every gun needs at least the hop rubber changed to a more performing one (this depends on the energy output and bb weight used, but generally stock hop rubbers aren't that good).

Tried a mate's inserts he bought for his Esstac Boar but again, they make my pouches way too tight. Okay, I'm now looking for a new rig for my sniper kit, didn't want to make another thread so I'll just use this one. Dis one won't have to be fancy or expensive, I might cover it in spray paint, raffia, cotton or haloscreen whenever I decide to start working on my viper hood. Carrying capacity wise, it'll have to bear one/two mk23 mags, 2 to 4 glock mags and have enough "utility" space for a radio, gardening shears and other small bits and bobs like zip ties, hair bands and such. I'll be carrying a backpack with water, gas and spare eyepro. Ideally I would like to have some space to zip tie a holster for the mk23. I will be spending a considerable amount of time either sitting down or prone, so a belt of any kind is out of question.

Pyro, I guess..