Rogerborg

I use those particular Evolutions (0.28g bio), they've been fine so far.

True, but that's the retailer's contract with the manufacturer, which isn't relevant to the consumer's contract with the retailer, and our statutory rights regarding fitness for purpose, freedom from defects, and durability. Those lie with the retailer - any manufacturer support is a bonus. I'd be astonished if any UK retailer is actually sending broken toys back to the manufacturer. Maybe at the TaiwanGun level, but even PatrolBase just punts them on as boneyard guns. Anyway, to answer the original question: I can't think of many. Kingdom of Airsoft will sell you a new gun from a very limited range and a service for it, or a by-the-hour rate of £45. I wouldn't pay that much for someone else to work on a toy, but then I'd expect paying less than that to create more problems than solutions. PatrolBase don't list services, but they do a lot of tech work, so you could always ask. Again though, what quality are you really going to get from an assembly line?

Ah, I wonder if that's BBs in the feed tube pushing the nozzle up too hard. Luke at Negative put a video up recently showing the difference between a wobbly nozzle and a firm one (fnar) and suggested very slightly flaring the end of the cylinder head tube (inside the nozzle) using a swage to minimise the slop.

It's a technical limit, and you could probably live several lifetimes before finding anyone who knows, let alone cares. What you do with it is much more important, i.e. don't come to the attention of the State, and it will never be an issue. That said, I'm quite careful with mine, especially a bolt action sniper (with a 2.5J hard limit), because of the risk of falling foul of the Scotch airgun legislation. If you do want to limit a V2 gun to semi auto, it can be done by filing a small amount off of the selector plate to stop it disengaging the cut off lever. Always a good idea. I'd expect a stock hop unit and rubber to be able to over-hop 0.25g. That means that with the hop wound fully on the BBs should be arcing upwards initially. Then dial it off gradually until the trajectory starts to flatten out. When you get it dialled in just right, you should end up with a spookily flat trajectory, before the BB then rises just a little right at the end before dropping out of the air. Oh, it's always worth cleaning out the barrel and hop rubber on any new gun - hopefully yours came with a cleaning rod. Yup, I have to run with active braking on my JG G36 with 11.1V (and a Big Dragon M140 motor). I'm using a programmable Perun AB++, I'd hope that the NanoAAB would Just Worktm out of the box. One of the joys of the G36 is that you can solder the signal wire to the trigger tab outside the gearbox, no need to even open it up.

Ahoy and welcome.

Sure. 7.4V for reliability, that will generally perform as well as the 9.6V nimh that yours came with. You can try 11.1V to increase maximum ROF and semi-auto response at the risk of getting double-firing in semi, plus more wear on the components. I wouldn't sink any more money into nimh, and cheap chargers are the falsest of economies. We like the SkyRC range, and the S65 will do anything that you need. M100 or thereabouts, but everything in airsoft is approximate. It'll increase wear on the gears and piston rack. Yours seems to have a metal (I won't say steel) rack so go for it. Everything is replaceable if it does break. Your stock motor might start to struggle as you go heavier, you can then upgrade that, run it on 11.1V, or live with it. As noted, if it becomes capable of shooting any BB at over 1.3J on full auto then legally speaking it ceases to be an airsoft gun and becomes a Section 5 prohibited firearm. If it's only in this configuration on your property then that's a tiny, tiny risk, but it's not non-zero. Tight-ish. ZCI barrels offer decent value for money, and I've had luck with AOLS. As with everything in airsoft, changing a component may not result in an "upgrade" no matter how much you spend on it. As an FYI, that refers to the style, i.e. V2 is typically used in M4/M16s (and MP5s other than the MP5K). And there's no real standard, so one V2 gearbox might not be a drop in replacement for another, or take the same parts easily. However, I'm not aware of any particular quirks with the Cyberguns. The best airseal I have is on a sub-£100 CYMA with stock barrel, piston and nozzle, the piston and cylinder head o-rings stretched and greased, and some more ports drilled into the piston head. Again: spending more doesn't necessarily get you more. VFCs and Krytacs costing twice as much can break twice as fast. The best amount to spend for that purpose is zero. Or at most, shim and grease it, then see how it performs. Stock parts generally work well enough together. Once you start changing them out (I won't say upgrading) then you're adding unknowns and new points of failure. As above, the hop unit and rubber is where to start. I can't see any info on what hop unit is in yours, so it's probably an older style dial unit. Rotary units tend to work better, and the ZCI plastic rotary units are much loved - if you can find one in stock. Rubbers, the Maple Leaf macaron and omega nubs (e.g. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/maple-leaf-macaron-60-nub ) are popular - not the clear silicone ones! - although everyone has their favourite, like Prometheus Purple or G&G Green. It's very much a case of finding out what works well in your gun. Feed it the heaviest BBs that it can lift. Through the magic of square-vs-cube physics, a heavier BB will come out slower but will go further, at the same muzzle energy. Also, ahoy and welcome to the money pit.

Sorry that it's let you down, and best of luck with the sale, but I would point out that you're going to be offering a non functioning pile of parts for not far short of the price of a new SSG-96, with a warranty. If you don't manage to find a buyer, and if you have the original parts, then you might consider putting it back to stock and selling it as a working gun, and the parts separately.

As apropos a time as any to recommend Lucifer as a jolly fun watch.

Ahoy and welcome. If it's been a gradual process, then I'd suspect the battery. But I'd diagnose rather than assuming. A basic £5 multimeter takes all the guesswork out of it. What are you charging it with? They come with the dumbest of non-balance USB chargers, and if you're going to stick with airsoft then I'd suggest getting something half decent like a SkyRC S65. I'm not 100% sure on the connector on that battery. It looks like Deans, but may be some weird variant. Do you have anything that you can use to test the voltage, both across the whole battery, and per cell via the balance cable?

Blocked and reported for transphobia and anti-Scotchism.

That is making my brain hurt too. However, it is airsoft, so weird things happening is not only possible, but inevitable.

Are you sure that's the right thing to do? Perhaps you should seek opinions on it.

I understand that Austin is turning into East Los Angeles. The UK is a scrupulous rules-follower, even when nobody else is. We're a nation of park-keepers and curtain-twitching snitches, sadly.

What Would Gina Carano Do?

I'd say "God damn California", but I'm convinced that She already has. Can't buy a toy silencer on eBay UK, but you can walk into a shop in California, steal $950 worth of them, and walk out with no consequences.

Yes. Fractions of a mm can do it. Maple leaf rubbers have longer lips which can also contribute - I've had to trim a tiny sliver off of the bottom of a lip before. If you're sure that it's nozzle length, you can file it down, just don't create any burrs or sharp edges. Airsoft compatibility, eh? It's a wonder any of it ever works at all.

Yup, that'll do it. The air is going to take the path of least resistance, and if that's down the feed tube, that's where it's going. If the bucking is that knackered, it may also be blowing between the bucking and the outside of the barrel, although the Maple Leaf ridges are meant to (and seem to) give a better seal. That's where PTFE tape might help though - I put it on for ritual purposes, and then silicone lube the outside of the bucking / inside of the hop to help it slide in. Also, does your hop unit have a spring pushing it back against the gearbox? Is it still springy?

I'd expect to see that from a shorter nozzle. Longer tends to give feeding issues. Or it might be narrower externally and just not sealing in the bucking. Then again, I wouldn't assume that a new / "new" gearbox has good internal airseal without checking it. Even if it was good at the factory, it could have been drying out in shipping and shelves since forever ago. The very first thing I'd do is spooge some silicone liquid or spray up the nozzle into the cylinder, let it soak in, then cycle it until it's blowing clear.

Careful now, you're in danger of nurturing creativity, imagination and practical skills there.

Too humiliating a defeat to talk about?

Back on the crack. Lovely job, great detail work.

I'd agree with going to lipo, even a tiny 7.4V 300mAh 35C/70C with a JST connector made a big difference over the stock nimh in semi-auto response. I've now got a 1200 mAh with Deans crammed in there, although granted only by cutting a hole at the front of the "slide" under the barrel. The CM.121 should have more room. Of course, it depends what chargers) you've already got, what connectors they can handle, and whether you want to delete the stock connector and solder in another one. I wouldn't recommend throwing a lot of time or money at an AEP as the power is always going to be limited by the tiny cylinder volume.

"Some" is the most likely answer. What I will say is that my MP5K with a 110mm-ish barrel shoots at 1J - 1.05J (depending on air seal and mood) with an M100 spring and... uh... 1/2 or 3/4 cylinder, I can't recall what's in there right now. You're at 1.07J so you might not lose a lot, or nothing that a fresh M100 spring, or an M105/M110, can't cure. You might even consider short-stroking it while you're at it.

I guess "find one for sale for less" applies, as to so much airsoft stock at the moment.

You're very rarely going to regret a TM purchase, are you?