Rogerborg

It's not even that useful as a parts donor because mine also has that front end structural failure, so I assume that's endemic and common. It's the sort of thing that you might pick up at a bring-and-buy for £30 or so, then try to figure out how to restore the safe and semi to make it usable (but more likely just throw it in a box and forget about it).

Kind of sad though, as it indicates they believe they can shrug off their duty of care.

It really comes down to how you play. CQB, careful single shorts and a few short bursts, sure. Magdumping hi-caps, I'd want two of those, and (as above) switch at lunch. Higher C is always better. The motor will only draw what it needs, and you don't want the battery to be the limiting factor.

"RPK with drum [...] IS NOT INCLUDING THE LCT DRUM" 🙄 Seems that someone thought it was worth it. I hope they don't have regrets when they find out why it was uPgRaDeD but then only used once.

If only there were some sort of solution that can give the benefits of both. 🤔 ... and also give you something to fiddle with while you're kicking your heels in the spawn point for 10 minutes after "Let's go, last chance or we start without you" has been shouted.

Which moves the point of trust to UKARA, which is... a corporate entity? A limited company? A sole trader? A very small shell script? 🤷‍♂️ I expect almost all sites do have PLI, but if a site is openly flaunting what I understand is a common clause - prevent deliberate face shots - by hosting Licking Mustard, it does get me wondering. Ah, it seems so. What got me wondering was pondering what would happen if a marshal got blinded or fell down a hole. They claim against the site's public liability insurance, the insurer says "Oh, you were providing services in return for payment, or payment-in-kind? Then you're an employee, not our problem." It'll never happen, until it happens, of course.

I'd suggest that you start doing that, just to whittle the collection down a bit. You could stick the whole collection up as well, and keep updating it, but I think you may be waiting a lonnnnng time for an offer that comes close to even half of the notional price that it could all be flipped on for.

They get a lot of hate, but I like three-point slings for the flexibility.

Well, if we're going to veer back on topic, I do prefer to run a bit on the bondage rather than the floppy side as I find it helps with holding up our super-heavy plastic toys over the course of a day. C-clamping is mostly pretendy for our purposes, but, well, that's what we're all doing, right? 🤷‍♂️

Looks like US-11549793-B2 which references the ALS TRMR-LE (seemingly only sold in 12ga earburster form) and the elusive TRMR-LR (the cited link for that just redirects to the LE). Citations going back over a century, including a 1916 GB patent. Curiously there are two diagrams, one of which looks like the TRMR that we know, but the bulk of the claim is about one with a safety pin - presumably that's the LR.

Maybe. But: (1) It'd be a damn shame it if comes to that, since no sites should be allowing him to play in the first place. (2) If it does, I don't see him hanging around to have his non-airsoft-airguns / Section 5s seized and tested. (3) I very much doubt he's got professional indemnity (he ought to, given that he's a professional shitweasel), and it's always better to go after the deepest pockets. That would be the site's insurance given (1) Of course, that then raises the question of whether sites even have insurance. I have never, not once, seen any site publish or post details of their indemnity, whether public, or employers. On that, it's a finable offence to not display employer's liability insurance. Not that I'd wish it on any site[*], but if any money is changing hands in return for marshals' services, they might fall foul of that. [*] Unless they fail (1), perhaps.

Relatable. Or on the back. I get that top tier operators (and two+ gun competitors) like to transform more often than a 1980s toy-marketing cartoon, but I've very rarely been taken out while swapping guns before going through a door. Airsoft is a bit more forgiving than real life, I prefer comfort over absolute peak performance.

After how many impacts do you replace your eyepro, or after how many hours or days in sunlight? It's something that we know we should do, but - as with bike lids - it's easy to put it off indefinitely. I replace eyepro when it gets scratched or clouded, although a buff with some sort of polish (e.g. Meguiar's® PlastX™) can sometimes recover it. I don't think I've ever replaced eyepro due to impacts. Bike lids, eh, when I change bikes and a day-glo yellow flip-front bought to match an F800GS would be a sartorial faux-pas on a Royal Enfield Classic.

Echoing that, you'll rarely regret having a generic M4 AEG in your bag as a backup or loaner, even if you accept Satan into your heart and go HPA for your main toy.

Ahoy and welcome. I think we'd generally recommend an electric rifle (for magazine capacity, cheap running and all-weather use), and a gas blowback pistol for fun factor. The good news is that there are few bad electric rifles/carbines out there at the moment if you stick to the range sold by decent retailers like PatrolBase. As you've seen, there's a vast range available, so probably best to pick a weapon platform first. M4, AK, G36, MP5 are popular, but there are great choices in M14, P90 and some of the gopping bullpups as well. Most of them can all be made to perform much the same if you're prepared to drop a bit of money, so whatever you like the look and feel of is the right choice for you. Pistols, you'll see Tokyo Marui suggested as a default choice, and they are very decent. You'll want to find a reason to buy anything else. I bought a very cheap Army Armament R-17 because I am very cheap, but if your budget is higher, you'll need a better reason than that. I'd echo the advice to rent at least once, if only to blag a go on a variety of guns - airsofters are generally very keen to show off our toys. I'm sure you've seen the issues with buying realistic imitations, and that generally you'll get site membership / a UKARA number by playing at least 3 times over at least 8 weeks at the same site. Other methods are available if you really don't want to wait, depending on the retailer.

Just to check, those appear to be non-bios. Is that what everyone is talking about? I've had no problem with Vorsk 0.28g bios. I've not used the ASG devils in that weight, bio or otherwise, but their 0.25g non-bios are fine.

I suspect the point of listing how super-awesome-mega upgraded it is, was to list how super-awesome-mega upgraded it is.

Plasti Dip?

Hmm. It is a sod, I keep my shims on coloured paperclips, but I'm still forever mixing them up and having to re-measure them. Whether I'd pay for coloured shims is a different question though. This might be of more interest to pro techs, but (for example) Luke has mentioned a few times that he tends to just uses fat stack of 0.1mm shims. tl;dr - dunno.

Yes, that's it. The little tensioner spring on top of hop units is pretty wimpy: you can replace it with o-rings, or slide a beefier spring over the barrel.

Stretch the piston o-rings (or replace with 19mm x 2.5mm nitrile rings), drill some extra ports into the head, bit of silicone grease, and use rubber o-rings rather than a spring to tension the hop against the gearbox. I've seen 1.3J (oops!) out of a 229mm barrel using an M100 spring and stock CYMA air-seal components.

You just need a tube that's approximate the same inner and outer diameter as a hop unit feed tube, i.e. when you push it into the top of the mag, it moves the latch and BBs can feed up it. A piece of inner barrel works, or any 6mm ID tube with about a 7mm OD. As a random discovery, I noticed that the purple inner plunger from a small Calpol syringe is hollow inside and has the right dimensions. So I cut the front off one of those and use that now - you can hold your thumb over the end and press it in to release a few BBs at a time, or direct it into a bag or bottle if you're emptying the magazine.

Yup, midcap syndrome. If you have a mag that works, you could measure it up against the G&Gs to compare the exact dimensions, particularly where the feeds are. There can be a surprisingly big difference, and even half a mm can cause problems - you might need to shim or remove material from either the front or the back of the mag to get it perfectly aligned with the hop unit feed tube. The other thing you could consider is flaring the cylinder head tube to give a snugger fit with the air nozzle and stop it going owt skew on't treadle when BBs are pressing up against it. Negative did a video on it a while back, but it's just a case of very gently tapping a tapered punch into the tube to spread it out slightly until the nozzle stops weeble-wobbling around on it. Again, tiny fractions of a mm can alter the behaviour.