Rogerborg

To be fair, who would imagine that to be the case? I mean, it's just a plastic pellet toy, and people play with higher energies in much of the world. Bear in mind that the 57A airsoft definition is "a missile (of any kind)", not what you intend to use in it. Guns prone to Joule creeping (HPA, some gas, full piston / short barrel AEGs) might turn out to be Sections 5s, if the tools of the State were to drop a 0.86g steel BB in there.

Sad that you had to lobby so hard to get your hall looked at.

[Cross posted] Have you received any firearms declaration or exemption forms yet? I ask because, strictly speaking, something capable of over 1.3J and auto fire is a Section 5 (1) (a) prohibited firearm, as daft as that sounds. Since you haven't received it yet, you could file a dispute with the seller or your payment processor. That would be a bit of a dick move, but on the other hand, a commercial seller should know fine well that it's a no-no to send a 1.4J autogun into the UK to begin with. If you do get a knock on the door or a nastygram from Border Force or the police, say nothing, admit to nothing, and get legal advice. Firearms convictions are no joke.

I bought in the full knowledge of what was in there, after watching this torture test and strip-down. Minimal lubrication, decent gears, but one of the plastic bushings melted and failed. I have to pull him up on complimenting the air-seal though. Testing with the nozzle pushed hard onto the cylinder head isn't what matters, it's the seal with it forwards that counts. Barrel, bushings, o-ring nozzle and a bearing spring guide are going in now. I shudder to think how many time I'll need to have it apart to tune the energy though.

Oh, good call. The original hi-cap mag from my CYMA CM.516 feeds fine.

Ahoy and welcome. I'm a tan-fan too: the beiger the better.

100N, as that's what Skirmshop had in in stock when I bought. I'd suggest going a bit higher if you can, as that's giving me bang on 2J with 0.43g, hopped with 9.4 on the dial. However, what I also bought was the Rapax 004 spring tensioner kit, i.e. some rings that you can pop in to pre-tension and get bit more power. Given how quick and easy the spring change is, you can realistically do this at morning chrono, or at lunch, to dial it to bang on your site limits. With those I can tune to just short of 2.3J, or 2.2J, the limits at my regular sites.

Cheers, I see them now. Nice one, living the dream. And damn, Amanda Tapping is now officially GILFy. That smile.

V V V ... possibly with some persuasion. All of my other M4/STANAG mags were a tight fit, and needed half a mm or so filed off the rear. The feed tube on the stock mag is set 1mm or so further back than any of my other mags. Some of my mags still don't feed and will need modified further. As I said, it's a project gun. It does work out of the box, with the supplied mag, but anything beyond that will need some time and fettling.

I can't see those pictures, so I'll have to use my imagination.

Oh, the regular TAC-41 (polymer stock) is a bit heavier than I'd like. Not unusably so by any means, but I prefer to stand or kneel rather than lie in the tick-infested swamps that we have for airsoft sites up here, and I'm constantly looking for things to rest it on. Oh, I hadn't even spotted the Lite Sport, only the Lite. Hmm, that's a tricky one. The trigger components are still steel, and decent plastic can probably do as good a job as metal on the rest of it, entirely depending on the QC. That's a tempting price.

Perhaps Chinese seconds are like Chinese lumens, or airsoft metres.

And then the support, or lack thereof. £100+ on AliExpress after VAT. Compared to £71 for an XT from a UK seller and all-round good chap.

Not of the Lite, but the only thing I dislike about my TAC-41 is the weight. The mechanicals are great, and the only thing it needs out of the box is a spring suitable for your site limits - and the spring change procedure is super-simple. That done, it shoots like you're watching a YouTube sniper video. If you can live with the looks, I'd definitely consider it. Although as always, if you can cadge a go on site with one, that'll help to make up your mind.

RV22 / EU18? So, including postage, only twice the price of a brand new one? Jesus, this hobby.

http://www.csiairsoft.com.tw/xr-5.html What we have here are some very basic V2/M4 components inside a chonky plastic futuregun shell that comes in 8 variants (2 each of stock, lower handguard, and front end) and a variety of colours - although you'll be hard pressed to find any still in stock in the UK other than Dayglo Blue from a BBGnuz seller. Good stuff: A nicely finished gearbox with what seem like decent gears, and mine was shimmed perfectly. A well sealed cylinder head, and a reasonable piston with a partly-metal rack (but no bearing) and decent compression out to the cylinder head nozzle. A huge battery compartment in the front stock, accessible just by sliding the lower front rail forwards then the entire bottom handguard opens up. The cheek rest is designed to be removable, to get a better sight picture. The hop nub is an H style (but read on). The motor height adjustment screw has a second grub screw on top of it, which will help to lock it in place. A small touch, but a welcome one. Rails for days. Meh stuff: The motor turns well enough on 11.1V, but is anaemic on 7.4V. CSI themselves recommend 9.6 - 11.1V. A light barrel, I suspect aluminium, although decently anodised and smooth inside. Aside, mine is ~325mm, not the advertised 363mm. The stock flash hider is a lonnnng boi that extends well inside the shell, so I think a 363mm would just about be hidden. An old dial-style metal hop unit, decently finished with little slop (... but read on...) There's a hop bucking, I guess, with a tiny contact patch. I managed to foul mine out of the box, so I can't speak to the efficacy, although one reviewer reports effectively no hop. The trigger has a stiff semi fnar, although mine is starting to soften up after some finger blasting. Plastic spring guide with no bearing, just a flat washer. QD mounts on either side at the rear, but not the front. The spring is progressive, although I remain unconvinced that this is more than a gimmick. Bad stuff: Despite being mostly plastic, it's a heavy sod. Plastic 6mm bushings. Yes, plastic, in CURRENT_YEAR. No radiusing on the gearbox. No lubrication in the gearbox, at all. Thin, weedy wiring to a mini-Tamiya connector. The +ve spade connector on mine was loose and needed crimped. Teching is an absolute sod, needing near-complete disassembly and the gearbox, hop and barrel removed as a unit. I can count at least twenty-three screws and pins and bolts that need removed and replaced just to get the gearbox, hop and barrel out, and I may have forgotten some. You will not be doing any adjustments on-site beyond motor height. The H nub is hard plastic, and glued in to the hop arm! The plastic (21mm) nozzle has no o-ring, and compression is poor with it extended. Despite the full size cylinder and 325mm barrel, I was seeing slightly under 1J with no hop, dropping to 0.8J with full hop (but very little hop effect) Lots of slop between the inner and outer barrels, that begs for shimming. Feeds OK off the supplied small-capacity hi-cap (jumbo shrimp!) but I've had to file the rear of all my other mags to get them to fit and feed, and they need donkey-punched in hard. tl;dr: Would I recommend it? Strong no, the out of the box performance is poor, and there are too many red flags in the construction. It's a really old fashioned no-frills G&G Raider or CYMA M5xx style build but without the G&G performance or CYMA robustness, and with none of the features that you'll find in Specnas or Lancer Tacticals today that sell for £30 less. So, it's a project gun, but one that requires so much disassembly to access any component that tuning will be a nightmare. You do not want to be paying someone for their time to work on these, and you'd better triple check every component in isolation before you re-assemble. Do I regret it? Nah, I wanted the looks, and the project, and it's fixable with a lot of time and a little money. An AK2M4 order is already ordered, to address the worst culprits.

Nope, I give up: where are you?

Under 6 months old? Then it's a problem for whoever took your money, and you can get it back from them.

Burst mode, trigger sensitivity and binary trigger. The Aster in the EDGE 2.0 offers more, it's a solid choice.

Better than playing with yourself. I've not been there for a while but am trying to get back into it as time and fitness allow. I'll generally be in that, or DPM 95 and a TAC-41 (or a tan G36C (or a DMR'd grey Specna SA-02 (or a cut down tan CYMA M516 (or...)))).

I don't know for sure, but I'd like to find out. I've noted before that 5.95mm of pure ABS would mass about 0.11g and PLA would be about 0.2g, so everything above that needs adulterated with some sort of mineral, whether that's metal or ceramic. I've seen barium phosphate suggested, or compressed talc. Some BBs contain magnetic metal, presumably iron.

The Double Eagle M9xx range with the Falcon fire control system gets a lot of love. Depending on your budget, they come in metal or polymer. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-m4-ar15-m16-variant-assault-rifles?*brand=61

Definitely worth a try. It's a compact site, like a woodland CQB, with loads of buildwork and you're rarely more than a few steps from cover. Good access road, parking and safe zone. Actual real toilets and a shop with a bell and all sorts.

Sounds like a 1980s haircut and/or band. What's the mechanism in those? Me, not so much made as slightly tarted. From this gopping abomination... ... to this gopping abomination. Needs more greeblies, weathering and maybe a chonky barrel - although I actually quite like the stubby look, and every gram saved on these is welcome.