Rogerborg

To grift a profit on it, it seems. £280 including postage (plus whatever PayPal fees he slaps on the top) for something that can be had for under £180 delivered from bbguns4less (with 7% 'secret' discount), if they had it in stock. Which they don't, so he does have a fair point. It's a case of how much you want one, and where else you could get it. Cheeky fecker listing it as new though. Sites shouldn't even allow this. "Didn't work last time I used or" or "Worked last time I used it" should be the categories.

Jesus wept, I mean, if they were punting it on for postage cost with a mag, maybe. But £35 for plastic spares, no thank you, I'll pass on that even if I have become a bit P90-curious recently.

Is it ineffective now? Can you clarify exactly what you mean by that? Are there side-to-side flex? Excessive slack before you get any tension on it? Does it not fire consistently when you pull it? Well, there's a can of worms. If you just want a bit more than stock, I'd go with a motor like this: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/gp-16tpa-motor-long running on a 7.4V lipo. But many, many other options and opinions are available. You can go with a high speed motor, you can change the gears, but as above, once you open the gearbox, you can find yourself with no working gun pretty quickly. Without opening the gearbox, you can fit a tighter bore barrel which might (hop rubber and air seal allowing) give you a boost. ZCI offer good value for money, although the range is limited just now because of shipping issues. Fortunately, AK2M4 has just got some back in stock, https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels?manufacturer_filter=15 and I believe (but check yourself!) that your stock barrel is 229mm. Now, you can go longer as you have a suppressor, but you won't necessarily get any more power or accuracy from it. Really, no joke, barrel length just isn't that important in airsoft. Anything over 200mm is good for getting 350fps - I just got 374fps from a 229mm ZCI barrel, an M100 spring and a good air seal, and had to go down to an M90 spring to get it down to 340fps. I fit 50 or 60 degree Maple Leaf hop rubbers, but cheaper ones work as well. The best thing you can do for reliability is to not open the gearbox. If you do, I'd radius the front of the gearbox. You can also fit a sorbo pad, although I don't bother. Both are shown here: Once you're in there, you'll want to check the piston air seal and lube and/or stretch and/or replace the piston o-ring: YouTube and Google will help with that. You can also wire it for a mosfet while you're in there, which is a whole topic to itself. The only real reasons to go in there for maintenance purposes though are: check and improve the air seal if your fps is way down and you can't sort it from outside the gearbox; or if you suspect that your trigger contacts are badly worn and need replaced. Really though: if it ain't broke, don't fix it, or at least not until you have a working backup gun. What I did on my MP5K was to fit a very small rubber o-ring onto the fire selector, to pull the other side tight against the casing and engage it in the detents. I'm not sure what size, maybe 3mm ID x 1mm, I just pulled it from a box of assorted o-rings. The other thing that MP5s suffer from is sloppy hop units. I'm not sure if yours is set with rotating lever on top of it, or a foward-and-backwards slide. Either way, they're prone to moving: If you have a lever with that issue, I'd shim it out to make it a tight interference fit, or (quite seriously) get it set then tape it in place. If you have a slide-style adjuster, put a ruber O-ring around both it and the barrel, or cable tie it to the barrel, in order to hold it in place. And I'll say it again for luck: motor, barrel, hop rubber first. I would not open the gearbox until you have a backup gun ready.

I prefer it. You get a stronger and more direct pull, and can "point shoot", literally pointing your index finger at your doomed victim. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point_shooting It was taught as a technique into the early 20th century but has fallen out of favour because of fairly obvious issues with blowback slides, and with trigger discipline, as covered here: http://www.theppsc.org/Staff_Views/Aveni/Vermont_Technique.htm

Sad news, I hope they get a new venue ASAP. We'll always be a tenant-of-last-resort, I fear. The local outdoor has been kicked off site twice in three years, and is getting less "local" all the time as it relocates further into the sticks.

Not really, I'm mostly cribbing from Wikipedia and here: The hand-guard is the most obvious thing, and is A1. I did hesitate to even point it out, but it's genuinely a poor show by PatrolBase (or anyone else) to claim that it's an A1 receiver, which it clearly isn't. Hmm, are there any actual A1s? The CYMA "A1" receiver is closer, but still has an A2 stock, grip, birdcage and slip ring. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/cyma-cm-009a1-m16a1-assault-rifle G&P looks pretty good, but at a much higher cost: https://gpairsoft-uk.com/shop/en/50019-gp-airsoft-m16a1-aeg-gp-gp290.html They even do a recoil version of the very early pattern with no forward assist: https://www.gunmart.net/gun-reviews/airsoft-guns/bb-guns/gp-m16a1-recoil The thing is, the BBs won't care, and neither will anyone else except stitch-counters.

Apparently there's one in GTA IV. No shell deflector! TRIGGERED!

The hand guard looks A1. A ruler-on-the-screen says that the stock looks more A2 length than A1 and the butt stock looks like it's fully textured like A2, but I could be wrong on those. Can't see if the flash hider has a hole on the bottom (A1) or no hole (A2). The receiver is A2: the rear sight has an elevation adjuster, the forward assist is round rather than teardrop, there's a shell deflector behind the ejection post, and the slip ring is tapered rather than parallel. I can't see if there's a finger groove on the grip, but I'm guessing that there is. [UPDATE] Oh, this one? https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/golden-eagle-m16a1-super-enhanced-aeg Yup, butt, stock, grip and flash hider are all A2. The only A1 thing that I can see on there is the hand guard. "A1 style receiver. Perfect for re-enactment [and] mil-sim", the cheeky buggers. Now, I'm sure someone will out-nerd me (front sight post profile?).

I have to admire the resolve to keep the listing up though. Has that price been dropped?

"Frag out!"

I'm deliberately bumping this topic as it's still one of the top Google hits for "airsoft MP5K trigger pull" / "V3 trigger pull" and similar. Well, I put a bit of time into this. The 2-piece trigger is always going to be a problem, as there's loads of slack in it before the 2nd part even starts to move forwards. Then it has to move quite a long way back in order to reset the cut-off level. It was easy enough to pre-tension by gluing a strip of plastic to the top front of the main trigger to stop it moving fully forwards / upwards against the gearbox, but this then stopped the semi-auto reset. So eventually I hit on this pragmatic bodge: just stick pieces of cut up pencil eraser onto the trigger, which can be done with the gun fully assembled. A piece on the front pre-tensions it, and you can also put a piece on the back to limit rearward travel and give a shorter total pull. In both cases, hold the pieces in place while you work the trigger, and start with pieces that are too thick to allow triggering or resetting, then slowly pare them down until you get consisting fire-and-reset, and superglue in place. It's still not what you'd call a short pull, but you can improve the stock pull a fair bit with very little time and effort. If it starts acting up on game day, just rip the rubber out and you're back to stock. The pieces of white rubber are still unpainted here to make it clear what I've done - a dab of black will hide the bodge.

A thousand times this. What we've got works, and we can have fun with it. If someone's crept a little bit over, or they spooge a short burst of full auto within 10m or whatever the site limit is, it's no real biggie in the grand scheme of things.

See https://desertfoxevents.com/Desert-Fox-Events-Manual.pdf Rather filmsim, LARPy and over complicated, but as near as I can make out: AEG, pistol, shotgun and GBBR, 1.5J and semi-auto only. LMG/MMG, 2J, 50 foot / 15m MED and max 30rps(!) DMR/Boltie, 2.8J, 100'/30m MED (and as though it's not bad enough having the same energy limits, DMRs can carry a carbine, snipers can only carry a pistol secondary. WTF?) But this is where is gets a bit interesting: SMG or auto-shotgun, 1J but full auto, unlike 1.5J AEGs It'd never take off here because everyone tunes for 350fps - heck, my MP5K with a 247mm barrel inside a suppressor is shooting at 340fps now. But I do quite like the general principle of different energy limits for full auto, semi-auto with no MED, and semi-auto with MED.

Urgh, yes. The number of times I've whanged multiple tracers off of some geardo's double-stacked ammo on top of a plate carrier, only to have them (I accept genuinely) just not feel it. Why they can't hear it is another question. When I started wearing my EVA-foam Imperial Guard armour, I was very concerned about not being able to feel hits, and was calling myself out from ricochets or even when folk were just pointing barrels in my general direction. It turns out that I can still feel them fine, just damped down, and I can certainly hear them, so I'm not much minded to buy the pleas of ignorance from Captain Crye. Those magic headsets that folk wear, do they cut out the sound of BBs pinging off of Crye?

Well, you need upgraded grips to deal with the recoil and barrel climb. 🙄 I reckon he'd be better of selling the grips and the gun separately - by which I mean selling the gun, and trying to sell the grips.

Given that I play almost entirely CQB and regularly get point-blanked with that energy (and a maximum mass of 0.25g) then no, not at all. I think that's about the right limit. If you go down the Septic route of 2J AEGs then you get into MEDs and those rather silly "BANG! BRO! I BANGED YOU!" videos that you can see on the YouTubes when they get up close. UK law allowing, which it doesn't, then in woodland I think you could make an argument for raising bolt power to 3J or even more to allow for longer ranges in conjunction with 30m MEDs. However, I wouldn't make that argument because you should consider the worst case, and the realistic case, rather than the best case. With airsoft inability to judge distances, the push towards denser and denser BBs, and the risk of someone popping out of cover and getting point blanked in the face, I think 500fps is about right too. Actually, if you want to make distinctions between AEG, DMR and boltie ranges, one way to do that would be to limit BB weights. In the nightmare scenario that we went full NI / Italian with a flat 1J limit, you could limit AEGs to (for the sake of argument) 0.2g, DMR to 0.28g and bolties to... well, let's get to that... and you'd get extra range even for the same energy. On weight, I'd like us to have a think about BB weights, and what they're actually composed of. The natural weight of an ABS or PLA not really bio 5.95mm BB is about 0.12g. Anything above 0.2g is adulterated, and above 0.4g you start losing the argument that you're actually slinging plastic. Remember, a steel BB is 0.86g. I use exclusively 0.2g in CQB. On the occasions I play outdoors I have 0.43g in the boltie, and I'm rather thinking that if I put my range where my maths is that I shouldn't. But then... everybody else is, so I wouldn't be competitive. It's an issue for sites and the hobby in general.

Those are actually the improved versions, the originals were even worse.

But he only used it once! Plus all those other times. I'm sure the seals aren't all dried out to buggery now. Still, it's a full £25 less than a new one , comes with a 100% guarantee that it "shoots like a dream", plus it seems to have at least three different colours of rattle can on it rather than just boring black. Bargain!

Shhhhh.

I re-iterate: Louche and lush, will forgive the technical unlegality of the listing.

It was a one-day listing. Pretty smart, up and gone before eBay even review it.

The cheek of it, needs to be ban- -ged.

Aaaaaaaaany day now.