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Rogerborg

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Everything posted by Rogerborg

  1. Yes, that'll work just fine. I'd suggest 60 degree rather than 70 (maybe even 50). When you replace them, could you please have a look at your stock bucking and see if it's flat hopped (no internal mound)? I reckon mine was but I binned it off into the Pile-O-Parts in favour of a Maple Leaf without even checking so I can't be 100% sure. The stock Specna rotary hops are decent enough, being effectively the same as the ZCI plastic units. I honestly can't see the benefit to going to a Maxx hop unless it's a tracer unit.
  2. I reckon so, I've never been post-capped, although I regularly run out of love juice to spooge around on ratings.
  3. Ahoy and welcome. Yes, many of us tell ourselves that we're not going to go crazy with spending, but there's always something else that you just must have. Physics works much the same in the UK and Spain (I'm uncertain about Catalonia) so most of our bad advice should transfer OK.
  4. [Sad womp-womp noises] Well, I asked because it's caught out a lot of us. You can add a rail-riser under the optic if you want to stick with the MI-7 - and I'd consider it, I've not come close to fogging mine, which is a first. We've just had a post in the "wut made" thread here of a huuuuge riser. Whatever works works. The other option is, quite seriously, to lop off the parts of the mask that are getting in the way. Actual customisation. Or leave it as-is and use it situationally. I use my MI-7 with pistol or MP5K at CQB sites or even on a game-by-game basis. That's the grip safety, hateful things. I just taped it down on my AEP 1911. I was actually thinking of this... bit. Sorry, I don't speak hi-capa, I've just seen a couple of owners swearing at theirs. Nothing to worry about, pretty much all airsoft toys have a quirk or foible. Specna Arms like to blow the front off of their gearboxen, for example, although your CORE might not have the suspect Orion box, and mine's been fine. It sounds like you have realistic expectation of the costs and foibles though, so just laugh it off, patch it up, concentrate on the next day, and it's all good.
  5. A lot us do, until we use one. Torches complicate things further. These universal drop-leg holsters can be be adjusted to take most combinations, and if you don't get on with the drop-leg aspect, they can be fettled to attach directly to a belt or molle easily enough. That's a perfectly reasonable bundle. Hat tip for the S65 charger. The AA hi-capa's fire selector is a little sus, but then what isn't in airsoft? Can you use the carbine optic OK with that mask? I can't quite make out the mask, but it looks like it might be Valken MI-7 dual panes? If not dual paned and you get fogging, dual panes work well, either the MI-7, or DYE equivalents. Or if you want to go lower profile, Pyramex i-Force dual pane goggles work. Much of airsoft is finding out what works for you, so I'd just play and see how you get on. Don't hesitate to bin off anything that you don't like, even if all the cool kids are sticking with them - I'm looking at that bungie sling here.
  6. It seems to come and go, but another chap here was just after saying that he's blown the front off of his Orion. There was a batch that were dog rough and obviously poorly finished. Mine looks nicer - the pot metal might have been given a stir. It's got decent radiusing already done to it and hasn't cracked after several thousand shots at 1.8J as a DMR (I know, poor choice, but I can't not accept a challenge). Still, why gamble when CYMA, JG and Double Eagle don't seem to have any concerns in that price range. I'd normally include G&G in there, but honestly I think they're barring themselves from the basic AEG market now with their stubborn refusal to add any features to the Combat Machines while creeping the prices up.
  7. ... 2.28J Agreed, 100N seems to be about bang on for typical UK limit. I cut my 100N down a bit as I was garage testing with the hop at 5, but with it set to 8 for 0.43g, I had to add a little back again with Rapax adjusters (i.e. really expensive bits of tube). I honestly think the TAC-41 doesn't need anything done to it beyond a super-simple spring change. And, yes, the "Oi! Sniper! Gettim!" is pretty normal.
  8. I'm happy enough with my Edge, but Specna Arms quality control is all over the place. I can never remember if the CORE has the same fragile Orion gearbox as the Edge, but either way, it's a gamble given that they might have changed it again while I was writing this. We're currently really liking the Double Eagle M90X range. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-m4-ar15-m16-variant-assault-rifles?*brand=61&*inst=y
  9. With the caveat that you're limited by what's in stock, we've just been discussing that here: A further caveat, the plastic on <£100 CYMA M4s is quite toyish. Strong enough, mind, and the internals are sturdy, but it doesn't feel great. That may or may not matter to you, but if you go up to the £120+ mark, you'll get something that feels nicer (but will perform much the same).
  10. That what I use on my JG G36. Like a fair bit of airsoft precision engineering, it needed a file waved at it to get it to fit, and to take mags, but once everything was neatened up, it works fine. I've not had any feeding issues from any M4 mid or hi-caps, and it actually feeds better than the G36 mid caps that I was using.
  11. AB++ fitted. Burst mode bursting. Pre-cock cocking.

     

    Put back together. No burst, no auto.

     

    Oh, snap, I've cleaved the ropey G36 selector plate clean in twain.

     

    Ropey replacement on the way, superglue and cable tie reenforcement bodge in full effect.

     

    I remain amazed that these things ever work.

     

    image.png.d69a9850f5ffc0fdded29ee82d0127ec.png

    1. Druid799

      Druid799

      Burst mode bursting. Pre-cock cocking , 🎼 three lords a leaping , two gold rings and a partridge in a pear treeeeeeeee ! 🎼

  12. To be fair, he does seem like more of a collector / displayer than a player. Maybe we could apply some of that Twatter/Google language policing to flag up the word "new" in any advert.
  13. With the caveat that I'm forever blasting the barricade because of sight-over-bore issues, for dynamic close range shooting, it does make a lot of sense. Keep the toy level at chest height and you'll hit a chest height - the sights are more for righty-lefty.
  14. Indeed, which is why I try to caveat my experiences with estimates of days played, BBs shot, or "for now." "Buy cheap, buy twice" gets a Chad Yes from me, given that the alternative might be "Buy expensive, get worse internals, and have nothing left in your budget to fix it."
  15. Oh, that's handy. 19.18mm + 2 x 2.46mm = 24.1mm. 👍 I've been getting on OK with generic 19mm / 2.5mm = 24.0mm o-rings, stretched out by popping them over the cylinder and then heating them a bit - you know, a fire-based ritual ceremony.
  16. Knowing what we know about Specna Arms QC, why not look elsewhere rather than rewarding them and taking a gamble? That budget gets you into tin-can bodied CYMAs. No Gate ASTER, but no Orion gearbox either.
  17. Ahoy and welcome. Have you airsofted before? Do you have any particular requirements or desires about a platform? Since you didn't say, I'd assume the default M4 and that you're OK with plastic polymer bodies. In that budget, I'd say: CYMA for internal robustness but meh externals. Whatever you like the look of, they're all much the same internally. G&G CM-16 for much the same reasons. Double Eagle M90X range (and nothing else Double Eagle) for a surprising amount of features at the same price. The sad fact is that there's no 100% guarantee on airsoft guns. They're really expensive toys, and the moment you open the box, they're considered used-and-abused by 2nd owners and the retailer alike. Even the biggest UK retailers will cheerfully flog on returns as "new" guns. However, if you're OK with having pieces of hard plastic shot at your face while wearing a few £££ of eye protection, I hope you're not completely risk averse.
  18. Nice, remember to get it up to about 1.4J, point-blank folk in the teeth with 0.45g, then say "Stop whining, cheater, it's only a pistol."
  19. "I got a real bargain on that RIF, it was too good to pass up." [Goes into the back of a cupboard, never gets used]
  20. You were... pushing rope? 🤔 This is actually the only bit of airsoft "training" that I'm minded to work on. I'm still at the stage of instinctively closing my left eye then wondering why I can't see through the sights. Race ya!
  21. I bought two! One is still working! It's a miracle! The other works when it feels like it, much like a civil servant. They're OK. You don't really get much of a gas cloud with a GBB pistol, but the LEDs are pretty bright, both for lighting the BBs, and for the "flash" effect. I've spent more on worse.
  22. Hi. You don't need to do anything other than a bigger spring and lock it to semi somehow. Bear in mind that stock CYMAs shoot over 1.5J / 400fps, and that's pretty standard for Murcan fields, so this isn't extreme by any means. What I would do is: Radius the gearbox if it's not done already. YouTube can provide videos. Get the shimming and air-seal as good as you can. Maybe think about an o-ring nozzle, a double-o-ring cylinder head, and replace and/or stretch the stock piston o-ring, add more ports to the cylinder head, and get it all silicone greased up. A full cylinder will give you more air volume to play with if you're going for a longer barrel - I splashed on one. Locking to semi is down to your local fields. Some might be OK with a screw, some will want it selector locked, some might even want a mosfet with a 2-second delay (although you can of course disable that as soon as you've chronoed). The way I went with was to remove a piece of the selector plate - I bought a spare, to keep the original aside and intact. This bit here. You only have to remove enough so that when you slide it to full auto, it doesn't push the cut-off lever. Just get the gearbox out, slide the selector between semi and full a few times and watch how it interacts with the cut-off lever, and it'll be obvious what you need to remove. Then barrel, hop rubber and nub. I just run a Maple Leaf, no need for flat or R-hopping at 1.5J. The second last thing I'd do is the spring, after everything else is as good as you can get it, because all of that will give you a better gun anyway, and you'll want the air seal optimised and the piston and barrel volume fixed. The last thing I'd do is the motor, and only if it's struggling to pull the spring. One problem with semi-auto locking is that you might get a lock up, which a meatier motor can help to avoid. Again though, 1.5J isn't that big an ask. You'll get a faster response, but with the time of flight a few more milliseconds isn't as critical as in CQB. No need to go crazy with any of this stuff, you're going to be limited by all the usual real world factors, so just getting near 1.5J with heavier BBs and decency consistency is where you want to be.
  23. Yup. Did I say "Hand carved? Looks more like he used his foot, and a spoon."? If not, dibs on that now.
  24. No need to apologise for being right. Fantasists gotta fantasise. One specific issue is that the sort of people who will provide medical and fire cover without production liability insurance to cover them when things go Baldwin are exactly the sort of people that you wouldn't want to be relying on. It's amazing how many people with huge ideas would rather hang around in forums arguing about them than actually getting on with implementing them. Remember that stable genius here who was poised to file patents on an team tracker device that it turns out had already been invented at least twice before? That all went a bit quiet, didn't it?
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