EDcase

Yeah, I know a site that has banned green bottled Blasters for shattering too much

Yeah, I hope you're not talking about NiMh because its completely the opposite. NiMh DOES have memory effect so they should be fully discharged before charging to full. Li-Po Does NOT have memory effect so they can be charged from any level to full and its actually better to re-charge them before they get too low. The SkyRC B6 is also a good charger if its a genuine one. If not then be very wary and charge in a Li-Po bag.

Its certainly worth getting a good charger for Li-Po batteries. (as Roger said, 'SkyRC S65' is recommended) An intelligent charger will properly charge to keep the batteries in best condition and reduce the risk of fire.

Yep, slower is better for the life of the battery

Don't know the make but if it fits in the available space 👍 I would go with this one: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-2000mah-2s-15-30c-lipo-airsoft-pack-t-connector.html?queryID=391e544be715b5db4e15fcd1971135d6&objectID=47513&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics Or https://www.vapextech.co.uk/airsoft-7-4v-2600mah-25c-lipo-cranstock-battery-with-case-lp305-vapextech

Its always the way 😬

That's a lockup which happens when the trigger is released too quickly for the gearbox to finish a cycle. Switching to auto just finishes the cycle as it ignores the position of cutoff lever. This is one of the benefits of using a more advanced MOSFET which can monitor the gears and automatically completes a cycle even if the trigger has been released. Its not really bad for the gearbox but a battery with higher C rating will help as will learning to hold the trigger until a shot is complete.

Yeah, higher C rating is better as its a measure of highest burst current. You may not notice a huge improvement but its better for the battery anyway.

Welcome and good luck getting your RIFs in 👍

Yeah, with that budget I'd go with a variety of play styles. Maybe an MP5 for sneaky-sneaky and a DMR for longer range stand-off for example.

Yeah its such a pity no one else makes one considering how popular it was and how many variations of other guns there are. Sorry, all out of ideas then.

Hmmm, its a WE Hi-Power MK3 Its quite likely the striker mechanism has broken. They are notoriously fragile unfortunately. Take the slide off and check there's nothing loose or obviously broken in the lower part by the hammer. If it looks OK then try purging the magazine of air. -Prepare to fill the mag with gas as normal (Can on top, mag underneath) -Hold in the release valve. (Yes, its awkward) -Start to fill and after half a second let go of the release valve so it fills normally. (Be careful to keep fingers away from the exhaust port as it will get very cold)

Constant, let MyUS send it back then Extreme Airsoft will refund you. Ask if the seller will send this one to you:

Welcome back Kieron For that kind of money look into the TM NGRS range. Can't comment on the performance or if they benefit from any mods because I've never spent that much on a pew. Personally I don't think its worth it... As said by others, research SpecnaArms, CYMA and G&G which produce decent quality ones which are far cheaper. (They don't have recoil or hold on empty though)

Yep, as Hamster said, best not to tinker at first and just enjoy how it comes (unless it performs really badly then inform retailer) Changing plugs to Deans is good if you know how but not critical. Wait until you have a second toy as backup or if something breaks before exploring the wonderful world of teching.

Yeah a MOSFET can be advantageous if you want fancy stuff like Burst, ActiveBreaking, Pre-Cocking etc. If you don't need all that and you're using 7.4v batteries, something else will fail in the gearbox LONG before the trigger contacts become a problem so better to upgrade everything when you have to get in there to fix something.

Nope, think what the motor is doing. Its pulling back a piston against a spring until it releases at a certain point. If it does it quickly or slowly doesn't matter much as it will release at the same point so the BB will be pushed with the same amount of air. The only thing that will change is the time to next shot as the system cycles faster with more juice. The 7.2v NiMh may struggle to actually pull the piston back against the spring so much more likely to get a locked gearbox where its partially pulled back but doesn't have enough juice to finish the cycle. Major pain... Li-Po's have more current so even though its 7.4v it still has more power. Think of it like a garden hose. The voltage is the diameter of the pipe and the current is the water pressure.

Not really. One of the benefits of LiPos is they try to deliver constant current (power) right up to the end (though you shouldn't let them get to the point they quit) If your toy car performance slowly dies it probably means the battery is not very healthy or just not very good quality.

Burn'er I've been lucky so far. Worst was a close range BB to the eyebrow which bled into my eye.

Did you check the residue in more detail? Too much oil/grease from somewhere getting into the hop?

I got caught out by this too with a mini-Tamiya to Deans for testing new guns before converting to Deans. It just made a click noise with the trigger pull. And I thought 😬😡🤬 Luckily I know enough not to keep pulling the trigger if it doesn't cycle. Was about to contact the store to tell them the gearbox was locked-up when I remembered a post about these stupid adaptor cables being wired for RC and needing changing. Took literally one minute to swap the pins and all happy again. @ConnorthescotSorry to hear that didn't fix it for you. Can you rig some wires to touch the battery directly to the motor contacts?

Adding my positive experience 👍 Bought at RIF from them which was out of stock in most places and the only one available in UK was about £240 plus post. Paid £167 including shipping and arrived by Parcel-Force the following week with no extra charges.

Welcome, I've got a Specna Edge v1 so can't comment on the v2 but I've been very happy with its performance and it hasn't had any problems (so far) As you say, even expensive toys can develop unexpected problems so I would say get what you want and test thoroughly in the time allowed for returns. Other options that are good value/performance in my experience are JG and CYMA. (Because I like to vary play style and actually collect more than play, I tend to buy many budget toys that perform adequately rather than one expensive one that may or may not perform better)

Hmm, the plot thickens. So where does the black gas come in? That's a crucial fact that could sway the argument either way.