Tommikka
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Posts posted by Tommikka
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9 hours ago, 38super said:
Hi All
I have an old 13ci 310bar tank dated 2009 which I got from new but has never been used.
1st question is should I be even considering using it or just bin it?
I tried filling it for the very first time a couple of days ago just up to 2-300 psi. All fine until about an hour later it started venting through one of the burst valves. I assume the reg needs rebuilding. Is it worth the effort?
TIA
Is it really a 310bar tank? That’s 4500psi
Are you reading the markings that include many details and you have read the failure pressure?
A 13ci aluminum cylinder designed for 3000psi use is exempt from hydro testing and can be used forever whilst it is physically sound
Look it over, if it is fine then for your first question it is OK to use
To cause the burst disks to fail there is an issue - if the original disks fail then that could still be attributed to age - they could be weakened over time after many uses and lowered their tolerance.
Replace with the appropriate new burst disk for each of them
They could also have failed due to regulator failure, in which case a rebuild would apply - or replacement
It’s your decision as to whether that’s worth your effort or cost of paying someone compared to replacing with a new cylinder
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On 14/11/2023 at 17:49, ParHunter said:
Looks like I am going to use my own 4 wheels to do that. It is just a 3 hour round trip, could have been worse.
12 hours ago, Dan Robinson said:I've come to the conclusion that a short to medium drive (by my standards) is worth the reduced hassle of postal fuckery.
Just make sure you’re aware of what you are achieving by driving there
It is often a lot better to be there in person and able to speak to a person behind the counter
If an item is lost in the technical terms of finding that tracking number then it may or may not work to be there - a package of approximate size that ought to be somewhere in a depot is potentially invisible - it’s just as likely that a helpful person still won’t find it on the system nor be able to see in when looking out back
For expectation management, before heading off on a trip consider the risk of still not turning up the package.
It could have left it’s last tracked point and moved from a depot without being scanned through and ended up somewhere else
But it could also be sat there and your presence changes the effort level of system checking / eyeball visuals and you do end up with it in your hands
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6 hours ago, PewPew4U said:
I'm of the opinion, at this point, that there may be a scam being run here? Every time I enquire over the phone I get a different problem from each member of staff, it's a circus.
More likely to be incompetence with a missed scan, ripped label etc. The possibility of pilfering remains but there’s plenty of scope for things to get lost among the system
@EDcasehas hit the nail
Pincer movement between WGC for UPS compensation and the police for a missing replica
The former is what’s required
The latter could result in a physical search & review of the internal detailed tracking points
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5 hours ago, Cannonfodder said:
I could be wrong but I've always assumed these shops have business accounts and would have different terms and conditions allowing them to ship rifs
Correct - ‘retail’ postage and business contracted postage can differ.
It would of course depend on the business selecting their carriers, methods and cover accordingly1 hour ago, Rogerborg said:Urgh, thanks, but this does my head in. If you go to https://www.postoffice.co.uk/mail/what-can-i-send and check the PDF there, you get:
Not a word about imitations, or compensation.
That PDF tells you to go to the RoyalFail to get the "full list". So let's look there.
But the "full list" page has not a word about firearms, or imitations, except to say that Section 5s are a no-no. It links back to the "brief overview" PDF above.
I honestly don't think there is a single, clear, absolutely definitive list that you could use if push came to shove in a court. It's not even clear who you even have the contract with, and whose terms apply, if you were to (e.g.) send and pay for ParcelFarce delivery at a Post Office counter, versus getting a ParcelFarce pick up directly.
Good to hear that standard compensation is up to £150, mind.
Maybe, but I can't find a reference to them. In any case I'm talking specifically about what BBGuns4Less say about posting back to them.
https://bbguns4less.co.uk/pages/Posting-back-to-us.html
Of course, it's not their problem if it goes missing or gets destroyed or seized on the way back.
Except maybe it is, since they 1) recommend Evri, and 2) say they won't compensate RoyalFail / ParcelFarce fees, only Evri fees.
What's the truth here? It's enough to drive a Borg to drink.
Facepalm moment
It would be a different matter if they generated labels under a contract with Evri etc, as opposed to directing individuals to use a method that excludes the most common thing that is likely to be sent back by a customer
https://www.evri.com/send/what-i-can-and-cannot-send
- Prohibited items:
- Weapons and replica weapons – including decorative, deactivated or air powered weapons
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12 minutes ago, Tiercel said:
Too much effort, and cant be quick-swapped between guns. Im not made of money not buying a sling for each toy
All you need for multiple slings for the same or less than the price of a single sling -
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11 hours ago, LzChase said:
Is there supposed to be tension on the sling when you hold a weapon using the typical C-clamp method?
There is no right or wrong
The C clamp hold can be with or without sling, it’s about stability and control of the barrel tip
Slings can just about carrying to ease the load and to allow you to free your hands - in which case it doesn’t matter how tight or loose it is, just that it holds in a manner that you can get back to it.
Slings can also be about another point of contact for stability and therefore need some tension. If you have some tension in the sling then this almost counts as being ‘attached’ in a ‘fixed’ position:
The combined tension between the sling pulling back to your body, stock against your shoulder and you forearm pulling away gives three points of ‘contact’ steadying the rifle in the direction that you point
If it works for you then it’s right - but with the issue of reloads @Wavey_Gravey has it - release the tension by dropping the stock from your shoulder.
Consider how flappy the rifle is when hung from the sling to pop your pistol out - if it’s just an emergency couple of shots then it doesn’t matter too much, but if you switch to pistol and carry on with pistol then a flappy rifle is very annoying
What works for you works for youSo if there’s a problem effecting you then focus on resolving the problem, if there are others saying that you have it wrong then that’s their problem
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The key point on airsoft is that compliant airsoft guns that are within the definition linked are no longer firearms within the act.
Prior to that exemption they were ‘low power air weapons’ which are within the definition of a firearm
A key technicality is “for the purposes of this act”
Therefore take legal advice on what definition of a firearm applies to your restrictions to ensure that your airsoft BB guns were & are not an issue
Sometimes a definition is carried across legislation and sometimes it refers to ‘as defined in’. If not specified then it’s subject to interpretation
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On 05/11/2023 at 09:32, Herrgh said:
- Ask her to teach you about her camera - that's a bonding activity that easily take an hour if she's technically knowledgeable about them. (I'm not, on the other hand. I shoot everything on auto and have no clue what most of the buttons do.)
The primary purpose of the buttons is to make it do things that change the end results slightly, some models allow you to reprogramme what certain buttons do to suit your needs. When you’ve had a camera set up with a few personal preset mode configurations
The secondary purpose of the buttons is that you can pick it up after a couple of years and wonder what the hell is going on as you can’t remember which is which out of ‘preset mode 1/2/3’
@son of dan an extension to @Herrghrecommending her teaching you something about her camera is to go out for a general photo day. If you have a camera or she has two, then even have a go at each taking a photo of the same thing then comparing results
Presumably she will get the artistic element in quickly, and can guide you to how your photo could have compared to hers - or the contrast of your interpretationYou can set themes for the day, or sign up to GuruShots and pick a challenge or two then try for some pictures to fit the brief
https://apps.apple.com/gb/app/gurushots-photography/id1111221823
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1 hour ago, TrenythingIsPossible said:
Hugely silly idea, but a pretty good attempt at an outfit.
It never happened
Quite obvious if engaging common sense thought for a moment about wandering around in a Northern Ireland public place, masked with a gun like object
Particularly in the identified location of Derry/Londonderry
Irrespective of the general public taking no notice in the photo and the police making no trace via CCTV after social media circulation was reported etc any real incident would have promptly come to the attention of the police as it occurred - probably after the balaclavas had become awareDespite articles subsequently mentioning AI generation this will be somebodies airsoft cosplay photo edited into a generic public photo
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Something to give an example
This will just be for some indoor & partially outdoor urban play this weekend and the footage just for posterity
The camera is a generic SJ4000, upside down mounted on a rail mount. (It is set for upside down recording, so unless it resets itself the resulting footage will be the right way up)
It’s mounted a long way forward. Which means it will be out of my hands way when gripping - but it can look like an odd position and won’t capture the barrel for ‘gun cam context’
@son of danSomething that none of us have mentioned is ‘tethers’. You should not rely on mounts, something will go wrong - especially when mounted in places out of your line of sight such as head mounts. Best practice is to use a mount plus secure a tether wire so that if something fails it hangs off rather than falling in a bush
Ignore that I’m not practicing what I preach
Another thing to consider is the lights. I’ll be in some dark underground areas so will be trying to remember to put some black electrical tape over the LEDs. The back screen is an option to black out - the disadvantage is switching off when thinking that you’re switching on. It does have a WiFi mode so its possible to check on a phone
Also in use this weekend is a light
Lights should of course be off for the majority of the time, not waving around giving away our positions - it’s for searching corners of dark rooms for props & goodies
I was considering positioning the touch switch on the grip, and using a chopped up bicycle inner tube over the grip to hold it
But instead I have gone for the elastic band that came with the inner tube and mounted on the side of the rail
Tape is coming in case of emergency
This allows for thumb contact to switch on
Try to ignore the barrel. Those with a keen eye may notice the calibre
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1 hour ago, Dan Robinson said:
Interesting that the first picture didn't show up now I'm on a different device. It was one I copied the address straight from my photo stream rather than the album.
Open the image full screen in Google photos, right click, the select copy "image address" rather than "copy image"
Curious ……..
I’m on the same device (iPhone) and the first image has now disappeared as below:
It may be an issue with the hosting rather than the way you have embedded it, as originally I saw both perfectly well
…….
In theory, copying a link from your photostream could be the issue - but it’s not due to that being personal to you as I could see the image
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37 minutes ago, Dan Robinson said:
Woulds be easier if they could be linked to directly stored elsewhere like Google Photos or Photobucket etc.
I couldn't make it work last time I tried. Sure there must be a way....
Can you see it?
Or how about this one?
Those two work
I’m in two minds about embedding or linking
Links are a good habit to support a forum
Back in the day I hosted team signature block images, which had the ‘benefit’ of managing consistency, and allowed for event promotion (subject to advertising rules) both for our own events and also when playing a role in another teams/organisers event
My moderator head says to link from a hosting site, this of course saves resources and costs for the site owners - and that’s how I used to do things - across a few hosting sites to keep it free and also as part of my organising.
Over time those sites have gone onto different pricing, so I went through a review ensuring I didn’t lose anything that I hadn’t archived, and fixed a few shares to maintain, but a number of forums now have dead links
Embeds ‘fix’ my problem of organising links, but contributes to forum costs.
I aim to scale appropriately, and some of my older pictures are ‘banked’ to give me some flexibility to scale down and retrieve capacity in the future - or I could decide that protecting the ‘integrity’ of a thread in the future can be served by lesser quality as opposed to a good balance between quality & size for a current thread
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8 minutes ago, Dan Robinson said:
I do like a tree photo
9 minutes ago, Shamal said:The latter ☹️
Not both?
- Dan Robinson and Shamal
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Start with a basic action camera, then learn what works for you.
GoPro carries the name, and does have the right features and specs which come with the price to go with them
Alternative action cameras are up to the job - all in recent years exceed the ‘quality’ of anything you would be showing them at - YouTube etc
Old YouTube footage from 15 to 10 years ago which looks like it was filmed with a potato gets highlighted with much nostalgia value and
You are dependant on the sensor and chip set. If you’re going in and out of buildings then the ‘better’ cameras will cope better with the change in light conditions - but anything current should cope in a reasonable time frame
Most important is what you want to do with footage.
Are you making a full film of all your awesome actions, telling the story of your day?
Are you making a click bait kill cam video?
Are you making training feedback footage to review what happened?
Or do you just want to film some stuff and see what you get?
The ‘best’ footage is of multiple angles - but means lots more editing.
eg barrel cam - which mostly shows the ground and air, but gives shooting footage
Reverse barrel cam - films you
Sight cam - which gives zoomed in ground and air
Head cam - which shows where you were looking, but can make people sick when you keep looking left, right etc, and will also show the tree or brick wall that you were hiding behind
Body cam - similar to head cam without the left/right twitching but more bouncy (check the stablisation specs)
Back cam - Strap a pole to your vest and mount a camera that films a 3rd person view
Combine a few of those and you can edit a story - for the extra cost of multiple cameras and mounts plus edit time
Alternatively forget all of those, get a generic action camera with case and an assortment of mounts. Try it in different positions and see what you get
Note that a scope camera is ‘better’ when accompanied by another camera giving a wider view
- son of dan, Rogerborg, Jacob Wright and 1 other
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4
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4 hours ago, son of dan said:
BUT, not the greatest idea considering that her brother is trying his best to avoid conscription in Russia, and she's not fond of most things related to the army/military.
You are wise
In case of future justification, Keep it in your back pocket that airsoft is a safe fun activity that bears little relation to real life despite the stitch counters
But the wise man knows when to and when not to take ladies to gun related activities
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On 30/10/2023 at 10:35, Dan Robinson said:
I wish someone told me this advice when I was his age:
Sometimes ignorance is bliss
Even following instinct on a no go can result in issues
We were entertained by a team mates stalker issues - until I declined a no go and ended up with my own stalker
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12 minutes ago, 1967PF44 said:
The pressure required to “detonate” the dyntatec one (left) is very low, no more than a few pounds of pressure, and less than a centimetre of movement in the release pin to pull it out.
‘Low’ is of course relative
A few pounds and under a centimeter go with our Mk1 but are a lot of pressure for the mk2
A (very) careful player can notice and step back from low pressure, and that of course is also a successful device - once players know that there are trip wires around they slow down and avoid obvious routes
12 minutes ago, 1967PF44 said:the other is on the same principal - spring loaded firing pin, it must be missing parts to set - which is why I need to identify it, lol 😂
👍
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50 minutes ago, 1967PF44 said:
fishing line (normally)
I’ll comment on fishing line as a trip line.
There are of course many factors to consider with a trip line, we haven’t liked fishing line. It has some stretch to it
(Which is a good and a bad thing depending on placement and intent)
If you are giving careful people a small chance to notice that they have caught a trip wire then the stretch and tension gives them that moment.
It also depends on the force required. Physical devices such as these have the plunger spring tension against the safety pin, and that gives some friction against the sideways pull of the pin. You therefore need a ‘strong’ enough line to pull against the friction
Add this friction with some stretch and that is the chance you are giving the player to detect - if they are running then it’s too late, if carefully walking then they have a chance. If opening a door they may or may not detect ‘tension’
We primarily go for pyro based systems, and have devices with electric trigger systems which means we don’t need the physical force of an impact for a blanks percussion cap, therefore less need for a ‘strong’ line
I don’t like to discuss specifics on our device designs (and I also work with those of an Army engineers background including some of EOD experience which also influences how much I’d publicly say about our designs!)
For trip devices we’ve had two core designs.
Mk1 had some ‘physics’ and needed a level of tension to pull it. Similarly to blank devices a fishing line or cord would be needed but would have a level a stretch before ‘popping’. Wire doesn’t stretch, but can be too obvious when strong enough.
Mk2 designs are very sensitive, only needing a light touch which would enable something more fine, or any ‘stretch’ in the line would trigger
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31 minutes ago, 1967PF44 said:
it’s the one on the right I am interested in identifying, it appears to work on the same principle, but I cannot see how to prime it, if I can identify it I can find out if parts are missing or broken off, such as the plunger shaped priming device.
……
unlike the dynatec scaremonger it does not have a central safety pin hole, it has an almost identical spring loaded firing pin, which I can press down on, but there is no way to lock it in the primed position.
I keep having thoughts that it’s a pressure mine, which would reflect you not having something to lock it as primed, but that would only work if the pin / blank can be impacted properly when stood on etcSo I think that you are right that mystery object which needs to be recognised to establish if something is missing or the priming method needs to be identified
Dynatex have made many products based on the same principles, some of which have a sleeve / enclosure as a grenade - but I would have still expected somewhere for a safety pin
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Going in blind, I’m assuming that it’s a blank firer which sets off by a striker pin on the the plunger
But devices can be many things, blanks, crow scarers, 12gram co2 cartridges etc
the holes look like the safety side vent of a blank firer.
More information is needed
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17 minutes ago, 1967PF44 said:
Hi,
xan anyone identify the airsoft trip wire mine on the right and explain how they work- or confirm my thoughts that there are parts missing
unlike the one on the left there is no plungers to reset the spring on the firing pin and no safety pin hole
google has failed me
any help appreciated
Can you give more pictures in other angles?
Are there signs of equivalent parts being missing or that the design does not appear to account for such parts ?
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3 hours ago, Rogerborg said:
Now, anything up to £135 should have 20% UK VAT added at source. The seller has to register with HMRC and pay over the VAT to them[*], then the item ought to come through without further VAT or duties.
Over £135, anything imported becomes liable for customs duties (from the list of ten kajillion types of goods), VAT, and then all the charges that get added on for working out and paying those charges. I can see that getting complicated and risky, e.g. you've got an order containing a mix of items that attract different rates of duty, or if HMRC disagrees with the categorisation or value.
[*] I imagine there are ways to arrange things so that VAT and duties end up just resting in your account for longer than might be strictly necessary, or where the basket price that you're charging doesn't always match the value declared to HMRC.(I believe) that the overseas registered VAT is to be accounted for & paid to HMRC on a quarterly basis, so would be held for a period
Package declarations should cover all of that, and presumably with the companies HMRC reference - with past experience I wouldn’t be surprised if someone from overseas sent packages with declarations but didn’t have any arrangement
When parcels pass through its then a question of whether there is any tracking of what is declared on the package vs quarterly accounts
On the matter of what is actually charged and what is subsequently declared, that again depends on ‘proper’ accounting. Unless it’s a VAT invoice the specifics aren’t there. Legally that’s irrelevant as VAT applies or doesn’t, but if for example a European seller lists inclusive of local VAT but sold as export then they could still charge €120 but keep the €120 from an overseas sale, but with a local sale kept €100 and paid their tax man €20
If declared as UK vat paid then they would be paying the €20 In £ to HMRC
………….
Ive just had a recent European import of some custom work - I dealt with the European office, but my invoice came from a different UK company (the guy is their ‘UK rep’) so I paid UK VAT
The European company sent it to him, and he forwarded it to me
I never saw the package which went through customs, so either multiple items came and split out or he took it out of one package and then sent on to me
UK customs therefore will have seen a business to business package and HMRC got their cut on the UK to UK sale
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6 hours ago, ParHunter said:
…. why is it cheaper to ship something across the world from China via Alliexpress than it is to ship from somewhere in the UK?
China subsidises export postage for low value high volume businesses
Should I use an old tank?
in High Pressure Air
Posted
PW is the working pressure
PH is the hydro testing pressure
A working pressure of 205 bar is designed for 3000psi
The wrong burst disks have been fitted for a 3000psi system they should be 5k and 1.8k
It could have been that a 4500 regulator had been fitted to a 3000 cylinder, but you still have the wrong burst disks for that
A 4500 cylinder should have 8k and 1.8k
It appears that the wrong burst disks have been replaced after a failure
The highest pressure burst disk placed nearer to cylinder end protects the cylinder from over filling and be in line with the PH marking - your 3000psi cylinder should have a high burst disk of approx 5000psi
The lowest pressure burst disk placed nearer to the end of you regulator protects your equipment in case of the regulator failing and putting out too much output pressure - an output pressure used on aluminum paintball cylinders was originally approx 800psi (for the change from co2 to air) therefore 1800psi burst disks are to blow when excessive pressure is coming out due to a failed regulator allowing full bottle pressure to pass through
There is clearly something wrong with the cylinder and regulator setup if 4500 and 8000 psi burst disks are fitted
???? Unless have you misread 1.8k ????