Iceni

Love it when I get to see a bit of ankle every now and again.

Sort of gun you wouldn't mind taking out for a walk.

Stock review: Gun Name and maker: LCT G3 - LC3A3 Slim Olive Drab FPS: 300 (UK import factory downgrade) Hop up: Rotary G36 style Mag Capacity: Supplied Mid Cap 140rnd, High cap (optional) 500rnd Battery: Whatever fits. No lipo protection, and a good sized battery compartment. Plastic/Metal/Both: Steel, Glass re-enforced plastic. My opinion and overall comments: Out of the box the LCT G3 is something to behold. It's weight, and build quality are exceptional. The feel of the body is at a level that is normally only reserved for the very best AK's, Been made out of mostly a very generous thickness stamped steel. The gun feels real, Frighteningly so. It is the single best example of a G3 currently been sold on any airsoft market. The gun is finished in a professional gun blue, that has good scratch resistance, and is a nice deep matt black. This finish can be weathered to produce a used looking rifle. The plastic parts are made out of a very high quality glass re-enforced plastic. The moulds are good with some raised die seams, but no flash on my example. The stock is fixed to a steel end cap and has brass inserts for the steel bolts to hold into. It has a generous thickness of plastic, and is built to last. The foregrip is made from even thicker plastic, it is solid with minimal movement. The plastic parts do not feel like regular airsoft plastic. These are thick solid chunks, made to be abused and feel real. The plastic parts are almost identical dimensions to the real steel wood and plastic counterparts, and various owners have built LCT G3's using both real steel sets. The attention to detail is not perfect, the gearbox through body pin is not present on the real gun, The selector is single side only, and the blanking cap does not move with the selector. The mid cap magazines need some work to feed correctly. And there are a few gearbox niggles, The tappet plate on mine was warped and slightly too short, The cylinder head had a poor airseal, and the rubber washer had come loose. Easy to fix but those problems should not happen on a gun at this price. To further elaborate on those gearbox problems out of the box mine shot at 280fps. With a new tappet plate, and the cylinder head sorting it went up to 355fps. No upgrades were done, That was an out of the box drop of 75fps due to poor QC on my gun. I took my G3 out on the day or purchase, before I sorted these issues, and even at a leaky 280fps, it shot straight and had very good range. The gun felt snappy on a 7.4v 30c battery, and all of the controls worked perfectly. That been said the gearbox component selection bar the tappet plate is very good. Steel gears, Nice alu piston head, Good piston, O-ring airseal nozzle. As such the LCT G3 is not an out of the box package that you can un-box and start to play with and expect 100% performance. The issues it does have are all correctable with a little time. And the second part of this review after the basic review is going to cover that. The finish on the steel parts is also sharp, Some effort has been made to de-burr the steelwork, but it is in no way complete, and I would not recommend handling a new LCT G3 without gloves. Removing the burrs will take you about an hour with either a de-burr tool, a fine file, or some very fine wet and dry paper. And you will still find the odd burr that needs knocking back for the first few days of handling the gun. Overall rating: Out of the box. 9/10 - looks and build quality external. 7/10 - function, midcaps have a feed issue (correctable). 6/10 - internals. Correctable errors by LCT. In function the LCT G3 is the only top end solution for people wanting a steel G3. It has a few issues, but these are correctable. At it's price point these errors should have been picked up in QC and dealt with at the factory. LCT may at some point revise the G3 internals and correct any issue I have highlighted, and these problems are only relevant to my gun. I have a 1 gun sample and can not speak for the LCT QC department as a whole. The closest competitor is the Classic Army range that also see extensive modding to make it look real, but the CA gun isn't steel. The second part of this review is going to deal with the minor issues of my LCT G3 and how I went about making one of these guns into a beast without breaking the bank. First Fix. The very first thing you want to do to an LCT G3 is fix the burrs on the steel work. As previously stated it's going to take about an hour. And in that time you will get a chance to fully investigate the steelwork. You will see just how well it is constructed. The welds are substantial, and the pressed steel is done very well. No expense was spared on the body. Oiling some of the metal on metal components should also be done on the first inspection. The cocking lever will want some oil on the slides, And the spring inside that will want some sticky grease to stop spring twang when you slap it closed. The mag release will want some oil on the flappy paddle mechanism, and will need some working to remove a bit of the stiffness. You will also want to add a mosfet. A basic one was all I required for the gun. So I installed an Xcoretech X304u, and replaced the tamiya mini connector with deans. I also replaced 90% of the loom with silver plated wire. The stock wire is very good, and the loom is clean. Adding the fet gave me the opportunity to open the gearbox, at this point I did not know about the airleaks and thought the spring had been cut short to give 280fps. So initially I went in expecting to have to replace the main spring. The tappet plate was the first thing I noted, It was tight on the sector gear cam and grabbing at the cylinder head on retraction slightly. I had a spare ASG ultimate v2 tappet plate in the bits box and replaced the stock part with that one. This tappet plate was the correct dimensions. Retracting correctly without the resistance, and slightly moving the airseal nozzle forwards. The cylinder head was also tested for airleaks. And was found to be less than perfect. There was a slight warp on the cylinder wall caused by a slightly shallow and slightly too narrow O-ring groove in the cylinder head. I re-cut the grooves with a small file and put the rings back in with added silicone grease. This removed the warp and allowed the head to fully seal. I also had to glue back in the rubber washer. On my example there was no sign of any glue having been applied by the factory. I degreased the face of the cylinder head, Keyed the face with some fine wet and dry, and superglued the washer back into position. I also took the time to re-shim the gearbox. The LCT shimming was decent, but not perfect. The work to the gearbox took me about 3 hours. Most of that was the loom. The fixes increased the FPS considerably. Up to 355 fps. And I didn't change or re-cut the spring from that. A gun tech should be able to do all of the above fixes if needed as part of a regular service. Expect to have to pay for the tappet plate (£10), but the cylinder head should be correctable, and the mosfet is no harder to install than any M4 variant. So don't expect to pay more, or for it to take longer than normal. The mid cap magazines. It took me a little head scratching to work out the feed issue. The LCT mid caps would stop feeding, then if you pulled the mag towards you would feed again (you could hear the spring engage). After a little head scratching and looking at the parts some things are apparent. The feed tube for the Magazine is low compared to the roll-overs. And the internals have some movement and can roll slightly, This rolling motion and the force of the retention clip spring act together to further push the feed tube out of the hop unit, and allow the BB retention clip to partially re-engage. To fix this I filed the back side of the plastic internals where they interact with the tang on the mag outer. I shimmed the magazine internals to remove the rolling action, Using 5x6mm plastic rod roughly cut into pegs. And I reshaped the steel tang on both the front and back of the mag outer to allow the internals to ride as close to the roll-overs as possible. With that all in place the mags feed perfectly. It's hard work for the first mag, but once you know what to look for it's a 20 minute fix per mag. This error seems to affect a lot of the G3 midcaps. I am not alone in having to find a solution to the poor feeding issue. LCT may fix this problem at the factory, but at the time of writing this there has been no information provided that this is the case. Overall rating: First Fix repairs. 10/10 - looks and build quality external. De-burring and possibly weathering complete the look. 9/10 - function, midcaps have a feed issue corrected. 7/10 - internals. Correcting the airseal, Tappet plate, Mosfet, and shimming. The internals are still not Gucci, but the only way to get a 10 here is to be running a gate titan, on helical gears, with CNC shells. 7 is very good for what is in essence still a basic box design. Taking it to the next level. The LCT G3 can be modified with real steel components. Some fit without an issue, other require a little persuasion. This part of the review is going to cover taking this G3 and adding a wood kit, Real steel sight drum, A sling, and optics in 2 styles (stanag claw and rail adapter mount). A real sling should be purchased for this G3. The leather German issue ones are easy to find on-line. You can normally find them in used condition for £10-15. Just make sure you get everything you need with the sling. It should be complete with a snap hook at one end, and a removable rivet to hold the belt style end. Adjustment is done on the Snap hook end. And with the correct sling the gun will sit correctly on the shoulder in both the barrel up and barrel down position. Barrel down is the most comfortable as the cocking lever will not be digging into your back. A muzzle protector included with a sling is also a nice bonus. If you can find a sling with the muzzle protector then it will fit on the LCT flash hider without a problem, and help stop debris getting into the barrel on storage. Using the German sling is very easy, The weight of the gun is transferred directly through the shoulder. Using a more tactical sling might prove troublesome. The gun is heavy, and all that weight acting on your neck and shoulder with the gun horizontal will produce significant strain on the neck. The German vertical sling is the better option for a gun of this weight. LCT have used the correct size ring mount at the fore of the gun for the real sling, and the bar at the rear is also the correct width and height to make installation very easy. The LCT rear sight drum is not correct for German Field issue. It has no range markings. The correct drum will have number 1-4 stamped into it to show you at a glance the range you are shooting. 1 and 2 are 200M range settings, the 1 been the open sight for low light. 3 is 300M, 4 is 400M. The LCT one not been stamped is not an issue for most people, but having those marking makes the gun look and feel more real. A real steel sight drum is not expensive, £15-20. And will fit directly into the LCT mount with no modification. Just make sure you get the spring for the de-tent as the LCT drum uses a different de-tent configuration to the real one. LCT have taken the time to drill the spring hole on the mounting, The LCT drum doesn't use this hole but the addition of it by LCT is a clear commitment to detail and makes installing real drum effortless. I didn't get a spring with mine and had to find a spring out of a mechanical pencil! With the spring in place the real sight works as intended. The LCT windage adjustment screw will fit into the real drum so there is no need to pick up a complete drum with mounting materiel package. If you want to add a scope you have 2 options for mounting it: A rail adapter mount, These come in many lengths, and all do the same basic thing. They have 4 screw style clamps and only fit the gun in one way, with the cut out on the mount resting in a slot on the top of the upper receiver. Adapter mounts for the G3 and MP5 should both work. And when fitted it will be a solid mount giving you a section of regular rail to mount an optic. It is advisable that the mount for the optic should be the type with a through sight design so you can continue to use the iron sight without needing to remove the optic. Mine was £10 and fitted without a problem. Stanag claw mount, These are generally the more expensive mount option. And the most restrictive. There are 2 common designs. Stanag mounting holes that should work with all Stanag optics, The optic is bolted to the claw mount. Or a Stanag conversion plate to allow the mount to have a regular rail on top. These claw style mounts will work on the LCT without a problem. And the steel is both thick enough to take the clamp force and the upper is designed to make full use of the mount. There should be no issues with a claw mount provided it is from a quality manufacturer. Direct fit without any problems. If you are planning on using a claw mount with the conversion plate to a standard rail you will need very low optic mounts, or on rail mounts to keep the optic low, As the claw + a regular mount will be very high on the gun. The Mil surplus claw mount (1240--12-140-9932) will need the rubber grommet at the back of the mount removing. It's a 20 second job and is just pushed in. The UTG/Leapers mount is cheaper, but there is a casting issue with some of the variants. The rubber grommet on the mil spec one was cast in metal directly into some of the UTG/Leapers mounts. If you get one of these you will need to file that extra mount of metal away. There is also an Adapter to Stanag option. This system requires the G3/MP5 rail with the 22mm rail upper, then a conversion plate from 22mm to Stanag. ARMS do 2 plates that will make the final conversion, The ARMS 7 mount and the ARMS 19 mount. The ARMS 7 is very rare, but the 19 is available for a very high price so I don't recommend going this route. It will work out cheaper to mount a Hendsolt scope with a UTG/Leapers claw, or use scope rings with a 22mm rail fitting. Getting your wood on. The foregrip, is a direct swap part for the plastic stock one. You remove the plastic one by removing the pin near the front target post. The handgrip then pulls away from the gun top edge first. The Wood foregrip will go directly into the gun without modification, and you can use either LCT body pins, or real steel ones. The stock is much harder to fit. First you will have to strip the wood stock down into components. The alloy end cap on the stock will need fully removing, This also removes the recoil guide and spring. Inside the stock there is a hole that may need enlarging. a small sharp chisel should be enough to remove this extra wood and make the hole larger without needing a drill. There are a few video's on-line showing this process. You will also have to remove the metal end cap from the LCT plastic stock. It's 2 screws and the stock will be tight in the cap so expect a fight. You then need to mate the LCT end cap to the wood stock. A sharp knife, Dead-blow hammer, some files/rasps, and a bit of wet and dry paper should be all the tools you need. Line the wood up to the end cap and look for the points of contact, it's then a case of removing as little materiel as possible to get the 2 parts to mate. It is better to have as tight a fit as possible so if you have to hammer the stock into the end cap the final result will be stronger. Expect the process to take 1 hour, and when you get it to mate you can put the screws back into the stock and feed through the loom to mount the stock. If done correctly the stock and end cap will mate perfectly. You can use either the LCT body pins or original ones, both sets look and fit correctly. Overall rating: Upgraded Externally. 10+/10 - Looks as close to a real G3 as you can get without actually modifying real steel receivers. 9/10 - function, midcaps have a feed issue corrected. 7/10 - internals. Correcting the airseal, Tappet plate, Mosfet, and shimming. The internals are still not Gucci, but the only way to get a 10 here is to be running a gate titan, on helical gears, with CNC shells. 7 is very good for what is in essence still a basic box design. The external additions are purely cosmetic, and should only be done if you want that full wood look. The fitting is straight forward and not as hard as with other models of gun, LCT have done a fantastic job of keeping to the original dimensions of the real gun and it makes the conversion process almost effortless. Final statement. LCT have done a good job with this gun, It is externally unparalleled. Internally there is room for improvement, and the mag issue is correctable. The gun is almost perfect, and if LCT got the gearbox and mags right it would be perfect. With some basic tech skills this gun can be classed as an intermediate project. You can throw money at it and replace parts, Or you could leave it stock just correcting the basic problems. Doing either will give you a gun that works, and looks fantastic. This is not a gun you can buy and use from the factory. You will have to modify the mags at the very least and perhaps sort some minor gearbox issues, Until LCT correct these issues. I would recommend the gun to anyone that is competent. But I would not recommend it to a new player, or to someone that can't get there head round sorting the mags. The mags are the big killer, And should be your main concern if you are looking at the gun. I have given you all of the information I have about correcting the problem and it has worked on my gun. Just remember it is a 1 gun sample and other problems may be apparent, or I might have an early gun and the problem is already fixed.

Ebay :D:D Hensoldt model 1, with stanag claw mount, stanag picatiny mount, case and cleaning kit..... boom! @Duff @Trojax88

It's not much heavier than the plastic kit. I'll drop it on the scales and get a measurement for you. And I can get a crane stock 7.4 2000mAh into it without modifying the stock at all. It's tight but there is a battery in, in those images.

I don't like the scope at all, but it's functional until I can get the correct one. I want the claw mount with the z-24 but there pretty hard to get cheap so It'll be a purchase for next year. http://www.augustine-waffenteile.de/shop/MP5-HK94-MP5SD-T94/Optics-and-sights/Hensoldt-Z24-Scope-Optik-Claw-Mount-9mm-Nato-9-x-19::315.html?language=en

@Duff @Trojax88 LCT G3 with wood, Realsteel rear sight drum, Realsteel sling. Cheap 1.5-4x30 scope. Wood foregrip is on the second coat of oil as it was in poor condition on arival, Stock hasn't been touched.

There were 2 options on the stocks. A basic wire one that rotates the wrong way so you can still use the gun with it folded. https://www.evike.com/products/28966/ And a more advanced one that collapses the same way, and has multiple positions. https://www.evike.com/products/29370/ I have the basic one as an original part of the GR300. I wanted it rear wired with the AR stock because the front handguard is really limited in terms of space, especially if you want to run a fet as well. It is possible, I just didn't want the hassle. The front handguard on mine is also pretty loose with age. So it needs the screws in it to stop it sliding about. Originally they just used friction with a couple of the holes been for swivel sling mounts. I use those sling mounts for screws and have the ring at the front so that whole area can be locked down. So If I wanted to use the front I'd need tools to swap batteries. I quite like the AR stock as well.

Mostly working on this this week. It's due a decent paintjob and a few parts. I have the wire stock, but prefer the solid one. It's just a straight swap so no big deal.

I saw one on the classifieds here. He wants £100 for a gun that can be had for £95 new. https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152215954-SW-020B-Carbine-Replica-Black.html It's got some funky plastic problem, looks like mould has eaten the stock a little. And it's got a big split on the front end where the upper meets the lower. And I'd be worried that has snapped the airseal nozzle or magwell plate. For a blind buy he'd be lucky if I offered £40. And even then it would be for the spares.

Krytacs have a reputation for been expensive. And also for getting a hell of a lot of things right. You can't go wrong with them if you have no problems paying for them. You can get pretty much the same features in the £250-300 bracket with G&G, ICS, Ares. ETU/mosfet, Bearings, Shimming done, Metal body ect ect. The difference is Krytac have spent a little extra time making it as perfect as possible before it left the factory, and it'll have the colt trades. It's actually a very hard comparison to make because at the top end £250+ all guns blur. They all have the better end of the component selection, mosfets, bearings, shimming done right. It becomes less about the internals as you are far less likely to open it up, And more about the look and feel of the gun. It takes an exceptional gun to break out of that, be it through welded steel construction (E&L/LCT), Real steel parts, Trades (ASG/Krytac), Or performance (TM/TM High cycle). If you are looking to spend as much as that it would be very difficult to actually make a bad decision.

The G&G m14 is fantastic. The gearbox on them is a bit funky but workable. I like the solid wood ones, but the plastic ones are significantly cheaper. Mosfet goes in the buttstock, There's a fair amount of space for a good battery as well. Most of the internal gearbox parts are standard, gears, bushes, piston, cylinder, ect. The triggers contacts are different, and they have a unique layout. It's a Version 7 gearbox in the M14 so do a little reading on those. There are 2 hop units commonly used depending on the model. There's a long tube M14 specific (cyma and some TM's have this), and an AUG style rotary hop with an extension tube. It depends on the make and model as to the hop type. I believe G&G use the aug style. It's a decent hop unit, plenty of spares available, Metal and CNC variants are also easy to find and reasonable in price. The plastic stock aug unit is a decent out of the box unit. The G&G should comes with a half decent inner barrel 6.04, and it should shoot well out of the box with no upgrades. You have to be careful selection the model you want as some are locked to semi auto only. The plastic top cover is probably the worst bit of the gun. Even the wood ones have it. So take a good look at that top section and if you can't live witht he plastic there then move to another model. The LCT G3 is unparalleled externally. It's pressed and welded steel. The parts that are plastic like the foregrips and stock are solid and feel like the real thing. Internally it's decent, Good gears, reasonable motor, 6.02 inner barrel. Decent hop unit. Out of the box mine shoots very well. It is compatible with real steel parts, and will take wood furniture with minimal modification. There is loads of battery space in the stock, and a mosfet would also fit there without any issues. Gearbox is a standard Version 2 rear wired. The downsides of the LCT are it's steel, and needs the edges knocking off the pressed parts or they will cut you to ribbons, The midcaps have a feed issue that can be corrected with shimming, They don't have a mosfet. Mag compatibility is 0. You must use LCT mags. Out of the box you may need to shim the magazine (takes 5 mins and needs 1 allen key). The plate on the bottom of the mag comes off and there is a space at the front of the mag where a length of plastic rod 5x6mm can be inserted and cut off. The range and accuracy stock are very good, I have yet to do any modification to my gun other than the shimming. The LCT G3 looks fantastic, Feels right, and there is 0 wobble on it. You could use it like a club. They have to be seen and held to understand just how frighteningly real the thing is. It also takes all of the real steel claw mounts, Ris mounts, and slings. The Ares SLR I know less about, the guy I go shooting with has an older no longer produced king arms steel variant. The Ares is the newest SLR in production and should have the best mag compatibility and internals. But you would have to research the model. On track with what everyone else is saying, You don't need to go with a long rifle at all. Any gun with a 300mm or longer barrel will give the same accuracy if setup right. The most accurate out of the box guns are not the longest, or the most expensive. It's the one that gives the right upgrades. A decent inner barrel and hop, setup well on a perfect airseal should offer no more advantages than anyone else with an equal configuration. Any of the decent brands should offer you this. ICS get a lot of love because they get the quality control right at the factory. Other brands vary in QC, but all guns that are solid should be capable of shooting well. It's just some take a little more love. And just to make you want the LCT here's a few picture of mine! LOL https://www.flickr.com/photos/iceni_photo/albums/72157693949766564

Personally I wouldn't do a DMR. So this is all IMO, and is more me waffling ideas rather than helping The reason been that most sites only offer 50fps in upgrade speed, and for that you loose close engagement range, and full auto. It's easy to make the trade if the gun you want will be capable of 500fps and is single shot only like a sniper rifle, but for a long range AEG 50fps isn't enough to warrant the drawbacks. As it's not going to lift a significantly heavier BB over 350fps. What I would do instead is have a main battle rifle, get it tweaked to shoot flawlessly, Then use that like a DMR but with the bonus of been able to shoot a close target, or flip into full auto just to upset people who think you have a DMR. The rifle models I would pick from would be the Fal/SLR, M14, G3. You want a gun that looks like a sniper, long and sleek, but takes mid/high caps, has a standard gearbox. And is capable of been tweaked to hell and back. You play it like a sniper, holding back, picking targets, single shot. And you let people fall into the trap of thinking you can't full auto them. Good models to look at would be: G&G GR14 M14 they do a full wood model for just over £300. Ares SLR The prices of these are wild £450 ish in plastic £540 in real wood. LCT G3 £400 ish. Full steel construction takes real steel parts.

The only paint is the black. The LCT G3 is a steel body, so what you see there is metal with a layer of oil. No plans to do anything to the plastics, They interchange so having an older body with new furniture isn't a problem for the loadout. I may at some point get the wood kit for it as it's a direct replacement and not overly expensive.

LCT G3, Only had 1 skirmish with it, then weathered. Weathering was done with Tamiya 3000 grit sanding sheets, Not cheap, but very fine abrasive. The properties of those sheets allow the paint to be slightly polished or removed depending on the sheet wear and pressure used. https://www.emodels.co.uk/tamiya-sanding-sponge-sheet-3000-grit-87171.html

It's why it went in here and not in the load outs section. I'm not in any kit, Was a cold day so I decided with only 1 mag for that gun I was going to run in my warm jacket with a speedloader in one pocket, and a bottle of ammo in the other. Had I got into kit it would have been DPM since I don't have a German load out for the gun yet, But I can feel a Cold War 1960's kit might be in order. There are plenty of mag pouches up on Zib militaria, So I'll base a kit on what webbing and pouches are available. I'm already thinking about wood furniture for it, Zib Militaria again have a full set for a reasonable price, I think the only modification you have to make is the removal of the steel recoil spring and guide, and a metal buffer. Once those parts are removed the stock is already hollow, and there is a hole that you can put a wire directly through! So it's a very simple conversion. I also want a few more bits for it, The correct leather sling, A reproduction claw mount with something that looks like a Hensoldt Fero Z-24, The sight and claw don't need to be real steel a similar modern equivalent would be fine. I need a couple of high caps, and a couple more mid caps. Performance wise it's a hard comparison to the shelf models. The UK supplier I got mine off had requested a factory downgrade. So it shoots at 300 fps, The regular shipped ones are shooting at 400fps to other markets. The hop looks to be a marui and works well. 6.02 tight bore is standard. Wire is silver plated, and it comes on small tam connectors. 7.4 30c lipo is generating about 15rps. Trigger response is snappy but the trigger pull is quite long. I was able to get .25's to go sailing past the 80 mark on the range... Now what that 80 mark represents is up for debate, the site recon it's meters. Google maps on the other hand has more sensible number upon reflection Using Google I was able to go from the safe zone to bunker hill without a problem, That is 65M/213ft, That was a straight shot and pretty consistent, but without accuracy. 40M/130ft was about where I could land a shot accurately without having to spam a lot of fire. Anything closer than that it was like a laser. As for the collectors comment, I think the other way, this is a gun that can actually take the real abuse you want to give a rifle, Dive for cover with it and it's not going to snap or bend, Clout a tree running again no problem, Drop it you might chip the plastics but otherwise you will be able to pick it up and keep going with it. It's a rifle you can treat like a rifle, Rather than a rifle that you have to be super careful with all the time. In that regard I think it's worth it's price. Collectors will also want them, but I feel it's a wasted investment as you can look at a pot metal gun on a wall and never know it's virtually unusable. You'll also notice I'm holding the mag in the pictures. There is a slight defect on the mid caps. There is a void on the front side of the feed assembly that allows the assembly to rotate slightly, It's enough to rotate the BB catch on the mag out of the hop tube. I've since shimmed the mag internally with a few strips of 6x5mm plastic to stop this. The mag feeds perfectly now (the shims went in the front side of the mag, and I made a small block to prevent it been pushed directly down. It's the only part of the gun I think LCT messed up on. But it's a 5 minute fix so no biggie.

New LCT G3. Pictures at The Grange Coventry, Taken by Airsoft press. https://www.facebook.com/airsoftpress/

It's not the weight that got me today, I shot without gloves, and the thing has a few burrs on the steelwork so my hands look like I've just had a fight with a kitten! The bolt release was particularly vicious with a burr on the catch that has taken it's fair share of blood from me today! I've been sat with a ward file sorting out those edges this evening! Other than a conversion to deans tomorrow I think it's going to get left totally stock. I'm not even going to bother with a fet till it breaks as it's shooting so well! Pictures are done by the Airsoft Press. https://www.facebook.com/airsoftpress/

Went for a shoot today at my local..... Came away a few £ less, but I now have a nice olive LCT G3. Shot it all day with the single mid cap it came with... Getting 90M range by the end of the day on the range. Once the bucking is broken in I think it will be a monster! Edit to this, The site has a range all marked up. 10-90, in what they claim is meters. I did the google maps distance measure on that part of the site and they can't have measured right. The range is about 65M in total length, so that 90 mark is there for no good reason, in fact the whole range is inaccurate!