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One of my local sites is selling off their 3 year old, used and abused hire guns: The ever-present nuprol delta pioneers. As in; the things you can buy new for £120 or so. ?

To add to my recent WE sig 226 mk25 I have been looking for more of the 30 (36) round green gas extended mags, our local CQB site only allows you to take 300 BB’s into each short game so I’ve been trying to get to at least half of that in mag capacity, the mags hold enough gas to shoot 2x full mags of BB’s, so I only need a speed loader in game to get to the magic 300. I found a used, looks brand new to me WE sig 226 P Virus for £60 with the extended mag included, the mags alone are £35 so isnapped that up so I now have a complete spare gun should the need arise. Now packing 4x extended mags and the std mag so 140 BB’s on paper but more like 160 when loaded so mission complete. Added the WASDN X400 Vampire laser/strobe/torch and have the Acetech brighter C incoming to complete the indoor CQB pistol load out. I had a quick practice with the laser and it’s really helpful when moving around in a CQB environment and the strobe will hopefully distract some of the incoming fire, I will see if I can mount it in a usable way on the MP5K which already shoots lasers and with an actual laser should be an amazing CQB platform.

Robbing cnuts, they're not worth half of that?

I love usedairsoft. It keeps the dickheads away from here. Yes I did just put an airsoft twist on a Jimmy Carr joke

Jesus wept. RIFT Airsoft sold its working ex-rental guns for ~£60 at the end of May. The ones with faults went for £20 less or so. If memory serves, there were some basic Specna Arms M4s and G&G Raiders.

You just can't help some folk

By any chance is it FAL shaped?

I'm just joshing bud I don't take anything personally on the internet! 100% it's full of rip off merchants and chancers, I've seen partially used bottles of average bb's being sold for the price of a full bottle of Geoff's or longbows. Definitely preying on the ill-informed and naive on there in the hopes to get a sale to someone desperate for gear but not having any kind of defence. No seller on there has ever asked me for any kind of defence but regularly asked on here and prefired.

Taking it personally is a good way to lose perspective. I too have found some bargains there but it would be negligent to deny that there are lots of rip-off merchants, try-hards and people clueless to economics of selling airsoft on that site. Yeah, that's probably true. He didn't name any of the brands so that's probably to prevent you from working out what the kit is actually worth. He hasn't even bothered listing the sizing of the shirt & trousers.

WE Scar H Mags from Taiwan via EMS shipped on 26th June. DE MWS BCG from HK via snail mail shipped on 27th June. Both arrived within 10 minutes of each other today... So much for 20 days on the snail mail then lol.

He didnt, he knows what its worth but he's hoping to sucker some noob, prob underage, with no ukara, in to thinking he's got a bargain?. Hence why he's selling it on that platform, in the knowledge it won't get pulled or outed?

"Ideal for Beginners" Because anyone who knows what they're doing wouldn't buy this shit.

Massive bundle, no less.

I'm curious how he managed to spend £480 on the rest of kit other than being taken for a ride.

Just waiting on the big box arriving (can you guess what’s coming?)

The quietest aeg that you can make is most likely something like an Aug or previously mentioned an F2000. The gearbox is very enclosed and the areas around it can be padded out with foam and etc for further sound proofing. Although that's only if all variables between all the different aegs are constant. Noises come from every single part of the gearbox. The motor, gears, piston, piston head and cylinder head slapping and other bits. The fact is if you take 10 aegs out of the box. All the same model and from the same manufacturer you will find each one sounds different

Phew, that's a relief, I thought it was just me getting them, thought i had a virus or something.

What grinds my gears as of today are the googleish adverts that I used to be able to ignore.

My knackered knees and back mean I never actually get near enough to the ground to get that dirty. Even though I sweat like a paedo in Mothercare, I've never "washed" a single chest rig in my life. They don't get left to fester in a bag though, soon as I get home they get hung back up and air out. Never had stinky gear.

Some folks were curious as to how I did it, so here is a how to :). Materials I used: S&T Spring Remington 870 35mmx20mm steel box section. I used 3mm thick stock. Random barrel mount from an M203 3 M6 x 10 countersunk machine screws 2 M6 x 25 countersunk machine screws 5 x m6 nylon bolt and washers. Tools used : Kentucky Measure (eyes) Pillar Drill, Hand and bench grinder, Various Vices, Vernier Caliper, Dremel, Hand files Tap & Die, Permanent marker, Club hammer, 45mm diameter steel pipe, Ignorance. 3ml of my own blood. Tools I should of also used : Centre punch, Tape measure, THE RULER ON MY VERNIER CALIPERS. Firstly, I obtained some source material from the Google. and then placed my rifle, barrel mount, steel box section, and destocked shotgun on the bench. After about 20 minutes of staring at it, making thoughtful noises, looking at the source material, I decided to make a start. Let's start with the big issue. The shotgun. The S&T 870s are single shot pump actions based on the Maruzen CA870, much like the G&P Wingmaster line... so much like it's identical. I mean, carbon copy identical. However, the S&T is not a smooth action out of the box. It's got sticky points and notches everywhere, the action over-extends causing the right side pump arm to disengage and jam, and lubricant was clearly lacking. Dealing with the action was a simple strip and clean, cleaning up any burrs on edges, or casting lines (of which, there were many!) in the areas where friction is a thing, cleaning up the edges of both pump arms with a file, and finally a polish of the metal surfaces where the pump arms slide in the rails of the cast chassis. I also took the time to modify the inner barrel and hop chamber, it now runs a VSR bucking. After reassembling, it's as silky smooth and easy to rack as my old G&P, and can lift a .32 with ease. So it's definitely suitable to mount. Action still over extending though - we will come back to this. The receiver shell ended up straight on the Pillar Drill for mounting holes. I ended up drilling and countersinking a total of 5 holes. 2 for the barrel mount, and 3 to spread the rest of the shotguns mass along the chassis. All 5 holes and fittings are not pictured as it was done at the end of the process. The rearward machine screw corrospondes to the barrel mounts rear screw orifice. Front hole countersink was done with an unusual but required approach. Onto the receiver chassis! more marker pen followed by using the Vernier calipers to edge my 'measurement', and off to the vice and grinder! First, off with stock fitment followed by material from the top of the chassis to make space for the machine screw heads. Despite the countersinking in the reciever shell, I also wanted to fit a steel insert between the chassis and shell with holes and countersinks to mate to the reciever shells, again to spread the load as evenly as possible. So accounted for this during loud grindy times with a medium grit bench grinder. Always wear eye protection!! Due to how the chassis fits into the reciever shell, the 'bump' at the rear needed to be ground down further towards the back end than i had initially done. So a bit of trial and fit and trial and fit was in order, made worse by my choice to reinforce the fitment with the steel insert. Minor adjustments made with more permanent marker and a dremel. Once enough material had been removed the chassis snugly slides in and out of the shell as it should, with no excess play, with the steel plate and machine screws in place. (This was the point the 5th fitment was decided upon, but this was a 20 second job and worth doing!). Now, those who are still with us - the mounting rail!! Let's start with cutting out material for the barrel mount. Permanent marker and Verniers to action, marked and etched, followed by a disgustingly convenient find of a jig from an old project that needed zero adjustment to achieve both cuts - it was meant to be! A quick clean up of the edges with a file followed by some tappy taps with the hammer to profile those edges in toward the mount slightly. After offering up the mounts chassis I marked the locations of handgaurd cap, bayonet lug, and sling swivel, and transfered those marks using a square, making sure to account for the rearward fitting motion of the mount as I wasn't bothering cutting out the top of the chassis on my first attempt making one. mock fitting prior to the Great Ignorant Beating, as wecan see, shotgun reciever has a curve. My box section does not. Long story short, dismantled the assembly, made a holding jig, and a spacing /centering jig, placed the rail in the holding jig, then on goes the centering jig, filled with a steel pipe with a 45mm diameter. I proceeded to smash the b***ocks out of it with a club hammer until I had achieved the desired profile. - this is something I'll do differently come the MK2 version ? Finally, drilling the holes in the chassis rail to corrospond with the shotguns reciever holes. Chassis fitments holes were tapped, and then everything cleaned in prep for a good application of hammering in a can. Once dry , the reciever shell was fitted to the rail and barrel mount. Washers and nylon thread nuts applied. Cutting down the barrel and ammo tube is pretty self explanatory. But the pump needed cutting down and a new recess cut out at the front for the ammo tube support ring. By combining my brain and my hands I was able to feel out the exact moment the action was at full forward extension without over extending. I marked the required location of the ammo tube support on the outer barrel, drilled and tapped fitment holes I then modified the pump handle accordingly, removing just right amount of material to allow the action to be tighter then a really tight thing with a tight schedule on a busy day. No more over extension of the action as its not physically possible without smashing the ammo tube support off (or proper dismantling procedure). I will soon begin a mk 2 chassis, where I actually use a tape measure, get the internal curvature done in a proper manner, and open the chassis rails top surface up to make it lighter, as well as get access to the shotguns hop unit ? In my defence I was excited and impatient. Thanks for reading. Enjoy. G&P Prime M653 GBB G&P M4A1 Prime GBB

I've seen someone buy one at the site. It was a relatively new guy who had no idea about what's good and what's not so he was talking to regulars. Myself and a few others had been chatting with him and letting him handle the different rifles we had so he could see what he did and didn't like. I'm sure we told him to not buy one of those just because it was immediately available and it had likely been battered but he did anyway ?‍♂️

Oops, double post Apparently a traser and cheap red dot are upgrades now

Dab hand at finding these bundles now. https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/bargian-bin/600-airsoft-bundle-all-never-used_i82730 £600 for a £120 delta and some temu gear. SIX hundred pounds..... absolutely baffling people think they'll sell this for anywhere close to asking.