Airsoft_Mr B Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 Hi all I know this is a pretty general problem but I was wondering if anyone would have any suggestions specifically with regards to removing a rail system, as pictured? Just the on the left seems to have worn away so I can't remove it Thanks in advance. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceni Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 There's a few ways to go about it. You can try knocking in a larger key. Or a Torx key. It'll have to be slightly oversized. Getting a really cheap set of screwdriver type bits will help with this. The cheaper the better. You want soft and easy to deform so look for some super crap tooling like Blackspur. The cheap tooling in this case will mean it's only surface hardened so it should deform into the space better. You could try to slot the head so you can get a flat screwdriver in it. You could try the rubber band trick. Or the most proven method is to get a set of screw extractors. There are several designs, Most use a left hand thread drill bit and a left hand thread extractor tool. You drill the hole (in reverse) in the top of the head, Then put the extractor tool into a drill and carefully (still in reverse) let the tool bite into the hole and grab.. At this point it'll either unscrew or start to strip metal out of the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortal Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 Glue/bond a hex key to the bolt and undo it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Rogerborg Posted October 11, 2018 Supporters Share Posted October 11, 2018 10 hours ago, Iceni said: Or a Torx key. +1. Just do it. You'll want a cheap solid bit, not one of those fancy hollow Torx keys. Aside, I'd like to find the genius who first decided to use hex socket bolts on vehicle brake components and shake them heartily by the throat. Now I just reach for my sacrificial Torx bits the moment I feel an Allen key or bit start rubbing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshOnSnow Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 Cheap and cheerful Allen key from screwdix + superglue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Druid799 Posted October 11, 2018 Supporters Share Posted October 11, 2018 I like to go for the ‘Dremel a slot in it’ technique, at least then you can still use the bolt and not have to source a new one in some bizarre length or size ! 🤦♂️ is there some kind of equation that works out the rarity of a bolt in relation to the need of it to the usability of said gun ? 🤔 As in it holds the gun together so it’s a really short and incredibly thin AND no one makes spares ! 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceni Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 12 hours ago, Rogerborg said: Aside, I'd like to find the genius who first decided to use hex socket bolts on vehicle brake components and shake them heartily by the throat There is actually a reason they use Torx over hex/allen. Torx is less prone to rounding out at high torque settings, due to the way the bit and head apply force. Hex head is far poorer at transferring torque without deforming. I'd still prefer a standard hex head bolt I can get a socket on! The problem with Torx is cheap bits, corrosion, and poor bolt metal. I do a fair bit on my own car and it's all Torx (fecking Citroen). The worst I've encountered on it was the wishbone inner mountings. Citroen designed something there that is so convoluted it's impossible to undo. T55 undersized fitting on an M16 thread then a nut that is also a long spacer M18 outer. Basically is means the threads are sealed so you can't spray them, and the T55 is so anaemic you constantly snap the bits. I spent over £100 on a 1/2 inch drive set of torx bits with multiple t55's in it at various lengths... Snapped every one (3ft bar). Thankfully I paid the money and the tools came with a lifetime guarantee. So all got replaced. I resorted to an angle grinder and replacing the bolts with M18 8.8's, With Nylock nuts and standard hex heads. Not that those bolts will ever need removing again. Brakes in comparison are easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Rogerborg Posted October 16, 2018 Supporters Share Posted October 16, 2018 On 11/10/2018 at 22:58, Iceni said: There is actually a reason they use Torx over hex/allen Which is why I castigated the use of hex, rather than Torx. All my motorbikes have been hex bolts or sockets up until I got my Nazi Tractor which is heavy on the Torx. At first I was all "Wuuuut? I have to buy a new set of bits and keys?" but I get it now. Torx is the final solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Lozart Posted October 18, 2018 Supporters Share Posted October 18, 2018 On 16/10/2018 at 09:33, Rogerborg said: Which is why I castigated the use of hex, rather than Torx. All my motorbikes have been hex bolts or sockets up until I got my Nazi Tractor which is heavy on the Torx. At first I was all "Wuuuut? I have to buy a new set of bits and keys?" but I get it now. Torx is the final solution. All Japanese motorcycle bolts are made of a special alloy of pig iron and cream cheese so they rust really quickly and can't be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Adolf Hamster Posted October 18, 2018 Supporters Share Posted October 18, 2018 On 16/10/2018 at 09:33, Rogerborg said: Torx is the final solution. i see what you did there..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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