Hi people,

Hope you're all ok, I have just had my cm16 intermeadiate delivered and I'm trying to take the keymod off I followed a vid online of a similar weapon but I haven't had the result I'm after (see pics)

The guns now in two parts and I thin black peice of metal fell out from somewhere while I was trying to put it back together.

Can someone please let me know what the piece and where I need to put it?

 

Also how the hell do I get this keymod off so I can put a suppressor on?

 

Regards

 

A stressed newbie ?

 

It's the dust cover that sits inside the receiever. When you pull back the charging handle it moves the cover, exposing the gearbox. In my experience it can be a bit of a pain to put it back in. 

 

It's a cover for the gearbox. Totally non essential.

It should be sat on a slide above the gearbox so it can be viewed through the ejection port.



Personally I remove them and flip the spring on the cover.

This means the cover is always closed and you have to get a finger nail on it to open it. But it also means water and dirt has a harder time getting into the hop area.

 

 

11 minutes ago, Iceni said:

It's a cover for the gearbox. Totally non essential.

It should be sat on a slide above the gearbox so it can be viewed through the ejection port.



Personally I remove them and flip the spring on the cover.

This means the cover is always closed and you have to get a finger nail on it to open it. But it also means water and dirt has a harder time getting into the hop area.

Ok cheers any idea how I get this off, it just won't budge no matter what I do?

3 minutes ago, ScouseReaper said:

 

 

Ok cheers any idea how I get this off, it just won't budge no matter what I do?

Check there’s not a grub screw underneath. In fact, that looks like a grub screw on the side in that very dark photo. Also, Threaded barrel is probably COUNTER clockwise thread.

 

So turn it clockwise to take off. 

Didn't work it's that tight it's just fucked it's thread looks like it's staying.  ?

46 minutes ago, ScouseReaper said:

Didn't work it's that tight it's just fucked it's thread looks like it's staying.  ?

Didn't work getting the grub screw out or didn't work twisting it off?

Grub screw, just wouldn't budge at all, I've given up for the night, the dickhead that tested it has tightened the screw to the battery compartment that hard I can't even test the damn gun.

 

ENHANCE!

 

 

If you can't get enough purchase on an Allen key on this, stick a rubber band over the hole first, then stuff your Allen key in the hole.

Should help it grip enough to get it undone.

 

Also, it's worth considering that there are stories of these things being held in with a threadlocker (loctite etc), but I'm not sure if G&G fall foul of this.

42 minutes ago, L3wisD said:

ENHANCE!

 

 

If you can't get enough purchase on an Allen key on this, stick a rubber band over the hole first, then stuff your Allen key in the hole.

Should help it grip enough to get it undone.

 

Also, it's worth considering that there are stories of these things being held in with a threadlocker (loctite etc), but I'm not sure if G&G fall foul of this.

 

 

Uber Enhance!

I wouldn't have thought that would make a difference if OP was using the right size hex key

12 hours ago, AshOnSnow said:

I wouldn't have thought that would make a difference if OP was using the right size hex key

 

there are hex keys and there are hex keys. i tend to find the cheap standard keys have slightly rounded ends (even the non ball joint type) and are slightly under-sized which means you can strip a bolt fairly easily.

 

i'd heartily reccommend a set of proper hex drivers for any serious aeg work, i use a set of EDS ones which might be expensive and flashy but they really do make a difference on really tight screws.

Hammer a Torx bit in and get on with your life.

59 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

 

there are hex keys and there are hex keys. i tend to find the cheap standard keys have slightly rounded ends (even the non ball joint type) and are slightly under-sized which means you can strip a bolt fairly easily.

 

i'd heartily reccommend a set of proper hex drivers for any serious aeg work, i use a set of EDS ones which might be expensive and flashy but they really do make a difference on really tight screws.

I got my set from Screwfix for £15 or something, they fit snug as a bug

Depending on the screw I interchange between proper keys and a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a screwdriver bit adapter.

The ratchet has the advantage of been every length you need, and still acting like a long key. A regular keyset in a hard to reach screw means you have to use the short end and often that can cause problems.

If it is nutlocked in place then the application of a little heat with a micro blow torch will soften red threadlock. Doesn't need to be an expensive blowtorch, one of the jet style lighters should provide enough heat.

Cheap keys are not hardened correctly, they tend to deform very quickly and round out. A decent set of basic keys doesn't need to be expensive either.

If you have a Machine mart locally they have a decent selection of keys with lifetime warranty. So if you do break one you just walk back into the shop and they give you a new one. Might seem like a false economy but I use my set on my car as well and snap a few a year. Just been able to walk in and swap them is the key here, you don't mind paying more for that. Halfords do the same with most of their pro range of tools but not with the allen keys. Toolstation/screwfix don't do this in the same way you have to send them away but more often the tool range has no warranty at all.. £20 is still peanuts when it comes to tools. And knowing you can hoof on them and not be bothered about breakage is great.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/9-piece-colour-coded-extra-long-ball-end-metri/

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-pro376-34-piece-14-drive-metric-socket-/

I was always under the impression that the CM16 had a moulded in flash hider that could not be removed.  Has that changed?

As long as it’s metal stick some heat on the grub screw , that way if it has been lock-tight’ed on you’ll soften the lock-tight and it ‘should’ unscrew .

2 hours ago, RR01 said:

I was always under the impression that the CM16 had a moulded in flash hider that could not be removed.  Has that changed?

That's not a flash hider on the barrel. It's a thread protector.

11 hours ago, Druid799 said:

As long as it’s metal stick some heat on the grub screw , that way if it has been lock-tight’ed on you’ll soften the lock-tight and it ‘should’ unscrew .

 

Pretty sure it's a polymer piece on the end.

2 hours ago, Duff said:

 

Pretty sure it's a polymer piece on the end.

Well bugger , he’s bollox’ed then !