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THE TM MWS thread


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1 hour ago, Wild Weasel said:

Hi, I think most people would agree the Airsoft innovations polymer-nozzled adapter is the best - I bought mine from Firesupport.co.uk but I've just checked and found that they are out of stock though.

I believe they are up to version 5 which is a blue one over the older tan which folks have used for years without a problem but the main point to note is the polymer nozzles not the strengthened metal nozzle is best.

 

I've managed to find the older tan one on ebay alongside the 'high strength' steel version.

 

They also sell an 'oil pump' that allows you to lubricate the whole propane bottle in one go?

 

I assume that's not worth it and more of a gimmick? I guess you can lubricate the mags as you go instead?

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personally I've never bothered. I just top up my mags with a squirt nuprol 2.0 after the games finished just to keep the seals in good nick. (for some reason it's a fantastic maintenance gas 😅)

 

the lube free nature of the propane is also part of the reason I use it as it improves consistency/doesn't coat your hop rubber in silicon quite as badly.

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11 hours ago, RMDavis said:

 

I've managed to find the older tan one on ebay alongside the 'high strength' steel version.

 

They also sell an 'oil pump' that allows you to lubricate the whole propane bottle in one go?

 

I assume that's not worth it and more of a gimmick? I guess you can lubricate the mags as you go instead?

The ai oil pump turns your can of "top gas" (read propane) into green gas by forcing a very lightweight silicone oil into the can under pressure.

I've only been doing the gbbr thing for a year now but from what I've read here and on other sites that can inadvertently be a bad thing. (Feel free to jump in and correct me if I'm wrong here folks) A few people myself included run their mags dry i.e. propane only - not green gas to prevent silicone contamination of the hop up bucking and to aid accuracy.

I tend to take my mags apart depending on how much hammer they get every now and again and use that silicone ai oil to lube the seals directly by just putting a few drops into the fill valve hole after taking the base off, spring and follower after brushing out where the bb's reside with a bore brush.

After use maintenance is as per wolf's guide on pg 1-3 of this feed. I do tend to strip the bolt down occasionally and clean and lube the seals in there with one or two drops of tippman silicone oil also to help keep things consistent as it can get a bit black in there after a bit.

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18 minutes ago, Crazy_Crystal said:

personally I've never bothered. I just top up my mags with a squirt nuprol 2.0 after the games finished just to keep the seals in good nick. (for some reason it's a fantastic maintenance gas 😅)

 

the lube free nature of the propane is also part of the reason I use it as it improves consistency/doesn't coat your hop rubber in silicon quite as badly.

 

14 minutes ago, Wild Weasel said:

The ai oil pump turns your can of "top gas" (read propane) into green gas by forcing a very lightweight silicone oil into the can under pressure.

I've only been doing the gbbr thing for a year now but from what I've read here and on other sites that can inadvertently be a bad thing. (Feel free to jump in and correct me if I'm wrong here folks) A few people myself included run their mags dry i.e. propane only - not green gas to prevent silicone contamination of the hop up bucking and to aid accuracy.

I tend to take my mags apart depending on how much hammer they get every now and again and use that silicone ai oil to lube the seals directly by just putting a few drops into the fill valve hole after taking the base off, spring and follower after brushing out where the bb's reside with a bore brush.

After use maintenance is as per wolf's guide on pg 1-3 of this feed. I do tend to strip the bolt down occasionally and clean and lube the seals in there with one or two drops of tippman silicone oil also to help keep things consistent as it can get a bit black in there after a bit.

 

Thanks for the advice guys!

 

I managed to find an ebay seller with the Airsoft Innovations adapter in stock (plastic version)

 

Based in Israel of all places! 😂 I've ordered two incase I have any issues.

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On 31/05/2020 at 21:30, Hypokondrikern said:

That sounds swell. I just ordered some MWS pmags from JK Army and got the impression of that I wouldn’t see them until the end of the summer. 

Currently ,JkArmy is a joke ....i placed my order on 15 April, still nothing....,anyways Surface allowed ...

Rainbow8 sent my parcel within 2 days both located in HK so Wtf?

Jk is more expensive but in return for it they are fckn sloths..

I find a 10h version as long as we waiting for 😂😂😂

 

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10 hours ago, P4radox said:

Currently ,JkArmy is a joke ....i placed my order on 15 April, still nothing....,anyways Surface allowed ...

Rainbow8 sent my parcel within 2 days both located in HK so Wtf?

Jk is more expensive but in return for it they are fckn sloths..

I find a 10h version as long as we waiting for 😂😂😂

 


Seriously?! : (( 

it could have arrived by now if it was sent pronto with surface transport... 

 

just sent them an email to see what’s going on. 
 

I have much trust in Rainbow8 but they were out of black pmags which forced me to go looking somewhere else. How did Rainbow send your parcel? Surface or air? 

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Pmags or stick with metal mags?

 

Not got my MWS yet but in the process of ordering. I prefer the pmag look as apposed to the old school metal mags, but I want performance over looks, so is there any difference? Good or bad

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1 hour ago, Hypokondrikern said:


Seriously?! : (( 

it could have arrived by now if it was sent pronto with surface transport... 

 

just sent them an email to see what’s going on. 
 

I have much trust in Rainbow8 but they were out of black pmags which forced me to go looking somewhere else. How did Rainbow send your parcel? Surface or air? 

Jkarmy haven't got surface option I meant "IF" they would sent via surface ..1.5 month ago.....I've already written for them .
Sorry about the pmags that was me mate :D:D:D R8 sent via surface 30-54 days should be better than wait for the airmail service .
 

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2 hours ago, Maligator said:

Pmags or stick with metal mags?

 

Not got my MWS yet but in the process of ordering. I prefer the pmag look as apposed to the old school metal mags, but I want performance over looks, so is there any difference? Good or bad

Just check BadaBing's Facebook post not bad not perfect but maybe worth a try.
If you feel inside the hero its looks easily fixable with a dremel.
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=2537152443165370&set=pcb.2537166509830630
The origi Stanag still the top!

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9 hours ago, P4radox said:

Jkarmy haven't got surface option I meant "IF" they would sent via surface ..1.5 month ago.....I've already written for them .
Sorry about the pmags that was me mate :D:D:D R8 sent via surface 30-54 days should be better than wait for the airmail service .
 


gosh, I totally missed that. Thought that all HK shops sent with surface considering the situation we're in. Well I’ll have them before Christmas. It’s gonna be a strange airsoft summer with one 20 round mag.
 

Just sold all my old originals 30 rounders to afford the pmags. 
 

enjoy the pmags ;) 

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11 hours ago, Maligator said:

Pmags or stick with metal mags?

 

Not got my MWS yet but in the process of ordering. I prefer the pmag look as apposed to the old school metal mags, but I want performance over looks, so is there any difference? Good or bad


The Pmags need a slight modification like seen in the link in P4radox’s post. But you can also buy the original TM part and replace it with. That’s what I did. I have heard that you get less recoil from the pmags but that’s negligible for me as I anyway play with aluminum bcg and plastic absorbers. I’d rather save some weight and get a better look and feel to the mag. It all depends on what you look for but out of the box - OG is better. 
 

( p.s don’t trust me too much as my mags are still in HK ;) ) 

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30 minutes ago, Hypokondrikern said:


gosh, I totally missed that. Thought that all HK shops sent with surface considering the situation we're in. Well I’ll have them before Christmas. It’s gonna be a strange airsoft summer with one 20 round mag.
 

Just sold all my old originals 30 rounders to afford the pmags. 
 

enjoy the pmags ;) 

Try Boomarms they are flexible http://boomarms.com/shop/item.cfm?id=ACE-PMAG-MWS-BK&curr_code=USD

 

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25 minutes ago, Hypokondrikern said:


The Pmags need a slight modification like seen in the link in P4radox’s post. But you can also buy the original TM part and replace it with. That’s what I did. I have heard that you get less recoil from the pmags but that’s negligible for me as I anyway play with aluminum bcg and plastic absorbers. I’d rather save some weight and get a better look and feel to the mag. It all depends on what you look for but out of the box - OG is better. 
 

( p.s don’t trust me too much as my mags are still in HK ;) ) 

Im wondering whether GG mod able to solve the recoil problem I think the gas tank is smaller 

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22 hours ago, P4radox said:

Im wondering whether GG mod able to solve the recoil problem I think the gas tank is smaller 


tricky to say as I haven’t done it myself. But badabing pictures ( great channel ) tried several exchanges with og TM parts and nothing fixed it. 
 

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1 hour ago, Hypokondrikern said:


tricky to say as I haven’t done it myself. But badabing pictures ( great channel ) tried several exchanges with og TM parts and nothing fixed it. 
 

Yeah I'll try as soon as arrive

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A little covid DIY project for those who don't like rubber magpuls and want something more like these for your MWS stanag mags.

 

You need: 3mm kydex, M3x10mm countersunk screws, saw / knife, heat gun, drill with 3mm - 5mm drills and countersink

  1. Cut the kydex into squares (I made mine 58x58mm) either using a saw or simply scoring it multiple times with a knife and snapping it
  2. Drill and countersink two holes along the center to match the screws on the base of the magazine. As the screws go into the mag at an angle it helps if you angle the countersink a bit too (as is done on the standard base plate)
  3. Unscrew the standard base plate but keep pressure on it, slide the kydex square over it, and secure both with the new longer M3 screws
  4. Heat the kydex square slowly with a heat gun, shielding the mag as much as possible (my mags all still seal afterwards... but this is is definitely not great for them)
  5. While hot, quickly tighten the screws a little more to help pull the kydex into the tabs on the base plate, then bend over the flaps. I got the tightest bend by pressing all three sides in with some wood scraps for about a minute, before then letting it cool completely with the main sides pressed in a vice... its a bit tricky to get a sharp 90 degree bend into 3mm kydex, but you can always re-heat if you're not happy with the first result
  6. Once cooled, unscrew and slide off the kydex again (keep pressure on the base plate and re-secure it with a screw...) to drill the hole for the gas fill valve. I tried drilling this hole at the start, but because the kydex warps when you heat and bend it I found it tricky to get the location right

You end up with a nice 3mm ledge on the back and front of the mag which helps to get a grip on it, and the kydex adds some extra drop protection too. Not sure what the extra strain will do to the screws in the long term, but I don't imagine its that bad.

 

Enjoy!

IMG_2221.JPG

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14 hours ago, RMDavis said:

Quick question chaps,

 

Does the MWS accept real steel sling plates?

 

Was looking at getting a Magpul QD ambi sling point/plate or similar.

my rs magpul  ASAP sling plate fitted fine without any modification so I'd imagine that the QD would work just as well...

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I have just stripped, cleaned and re-built my MWS trigger box.

 

Not as bad a task as I expected, mainly down to pre-watching the Eagle6 youtube video on it several times!

 

While flushing it with disc brake cleaner then re-oiling is great normally, the previous owner seemed to keep this CQBR buried in a sand pit and the trigger was tight and sluggish.

 

Stripped, de-greased and then reassembled with Abbey TF2 grease (and a light spray of GT85 on the Z-plate and bolt release catch) and the trigger is smoother, definite wall and more even pull with a crips reset. Not match quality but useable.

 

I am still looking to improve the trigger but I am having a hard time finding which parts or modifications actually help. There seem to be some very pricey parts kits or complete trigger boxes out there but zero user feedback (other than some negative stuff on the G&P box!)

 

EDIT: Just ordered one 😁

Has anyone used the WIITECH "marksman sear"? At £18 it sounds like a reasonable upgrade....

Edited by SSPKali
Parts buying habit!
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So, an update on the WIITECH Marksman sear for the MWS.

 

It fitted fine but made the trigger '2 stage' and meant the first part of the pull pushed the valve knocker 1/3 way forward! This even happened when the selector was set to SAFE!

 

Pulling the trigger after this lead to a light-strike on the magazine valve and failure to cycle.

 

If you simply snatched at the trigger it worked, but given the safety implications I immediately changed back to the stock TM sear.

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3 hours ago, SSPKali said:

So, an update on the WIITECH Marksman sear for the MWS.

 

It fitted fine but made the trigger '2 stage' and meant the first part of the pull pushed the valve knocker 1/3 way forward! This even happened when the selector was set to SAFE!

 

Pulling the trigger after this lead to a light-strike on the magazine valve and failure to cycle.

 

If you simply snatched at the trigger it worked, but given the safety implications I immediately changed back to the stock TM sear.


 

That was a fast delivery! Where did you order it from? 
 

Anguishing to see how the part didn’t work as intended - I hope that you can return it. 

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