THE TM MWS thread

[TadsJ2]

Regarding the failing bolt lock function - i've switched my nozzle to G&P reinforced nozzle, with 170% nozzle return spring (that i used before in AG v2 NPAS nozzle set, when bolt lock was still working), all other bolt carrier springs are 150% strength, and i installed adjustable nozzle valve set from G&P (5.0).
Bolt lock is not functioning on any of my mags. Is this because the gun is shooting too hot? I will try to switch back to my previous setup tomorrow, but I've read that you guys were using 410mm crazy jets without any problems, so help?


EDIT: I've reverted the changes back - TM stock inner barrel, TM stock bucking&nub, AG V2 NPAS nozzle set with 170% return spring aaand - bolt lock is working 100% on all my mags.
Ideas? 

Edited May 11, 2021 by TadsJ2

[C-Diddy]

Well, many days after starting, I've finally finished all 200 pages. Apart from figuring out that I really need to do more with my spare time, here are my main take homes from the thread:

• The MWS in all its iterations is, as Snoop may say, the shiznit
• The MK18 version looks ace but the design is mental
• The third party support for the platform is huge
• @AlphaBearhates Nuprol
• The one constant upgrade that almost everyone agrees on as being performance enhancing and therefore an essential purchase, is the SixG brass nub
• Whenever retailers get any MWS's or TM original parts in stock (especially mags), they disappear rapidly, so act fast
• Angry Gun are shit, but they're not, sort of
• HAO Industries kits are incredible looking (416 and L119A2 🤤) but are jaw-droppingly expensive
•  @AlphaBearreally hates Nuprol
• Fire Support provide excellent service to the needy and cash-rich MWS brethren 
• Depending on barrel length, ammo weight, nub type, gas type, ambient conditions, lunar alignment and inside leg measurement, FPS ranges from 200 - 1,400 fps
• The green gas mag mod is not necessarily necessary
• @AlphaBearfrigging hates Nuprol
• Become familiar with Impulse101 and other Japanese sites and order well in advance of needing spare TM parts
• Nozzles, nozzle springs, TM hop rubbers and a decent armourer's wrench should be in everyone's tool/spares box
• This thread is an absolute goldmine of people willing to share information, admire other people's builds and welcoming other people in joining the growing number of MWS owners
• @AlphaBearabsolutely, positively hates Nuprol

Thanks everyone. Looking forward to receiving the stock alert email telling me it's time to sell a kidney (or kid) as my MWS journey is about to begin.

[TadsJ2]

Will loosening the buffer tube help me in this situation ?

 

[SSPKali]

3 minutes ago, TadsJ2 said:

Will loosening the buffer tube help me in this situation ?

 

Might do, the bolt might be moving too fast for the catch to stop it, backing the buffer out 1 turn might be enough to do it.

 

TBH you have tried everything else!

[Wild Weasel]

55 minutes ago, TadsJ2 said:

Will loosening the buffer tube help me in this situation ?

 

If... you wind the tube out a couple of turns to give the bolt more time to catch you must add 10p's to the bottom of the buffer tube to pack it out or the bolt will over-travel and the screws on the top of the bolt will catch the top of your lower and destroy it making for a v costly mistake.

Alternatively, buy a guns modify or similar lightweight bolt catch as it moves up faster after first checking it can move freely as I had a build up of dry chain lube making it move sluggish - the hook part should almost rattle up when you hit the bolt release catch.

[AlphaBear]

2 hours ago, C-Diddy said:

Well, many days after starting, I've finally finished all 200 pages. Apart from figuring out that I really need to do more with my spare time, here are my main take homes from the thread:

 

• @AlphaBearhates Nuprol
•  @AlphaBearreally hates Nuprol
• @AlphaBearfrigging hates Nuprol
• @AlphaBearabsolutely, positively hates Nuprol

Thanks everyone. Looking forward to receiving the stock alert email telling me it's time to sell a kidney (or kid) as my MWS journey is about to begin.

Good man @C-Diddy for reading all 200 pages. Your journey is now complete. Well almost....Now just get that damn MWS laddie and start having some fun. And for you’re preferred choice of BBs. Drum roll.... Don’t use Nuprol RZR bbs else the next 200 pages will be even more entertaining lol
 

On reflection maybe  I should start showing Nuprol some love? Give them a second chance? Hmmmmm? Actually sod that thought!!! 😂

 

.

Guess which brand this rail is which Luke is referring too 😂😂😂😂

 

 

Edited May 11, 2021 by AlphaBear

[TadsJ2]

9 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:

If... you wind the tube out a couple of turns to give the bolt more time to catch you must add 10p's to the bottom of the buffer tube to pack it out or the bolt will over-travel and the screws on the top of the bolt will catch the top of your lower and destroy it making for a v costly mistake.

Alternatively, buy a guns modify or similar lightweight bolt catch as it moves up faster after first checking it can move freely as I had a build up of dry chain lube making it move sluggish - the hook part should almost rattle up when you hit the bolt release catch.

Thank you for the words of caution,regarding the bolt catch not moving freely - it moves freely and bolt catch works just fine when i reverted everything else back.
One more question, since I am not from UK, i wonder what is 10p? Is it a 10 pence coin?  If it is i will find something of similar width and height (maybe my HSB will finally come?)
and i see you are talking about couple of turns, but what about 1 full turn, it shouldnt be too much, should it? 

Edited May 12, 2021 by TadsJ2

[Davegolf]

@TadsJ2 your bolt speed is too fast, so the mag empty catch cannot catch in time.

 

Yes the HSB will help this situation.

 

Yes unscrew the buffer tube 1 turn at a time and re test.

[TadsJ2]

33 minutes ago, Davegolf said:

@TadsJ2 your bolt speed is too fast, so the mag empty catch cannot catch in time.

 

Yes the HSB will help this situation.

 

Yes unscrew the buffer tube 1 turn at a time and re test.

My HSB is in my country but it is stuck in  sorting centre for 5 days already... called them, they said they will look into it, so fingers crossed i will get my HSB by the end of this week.
Thanks Dave, will try to do this one turn at a time and hopefully one will be enough But as I understood, if I will put the HSB in I might have to unscrew buffer tube a little bit again ?  

Edited May 12, 2021 by TadsJ2

[Davegolf]

On a standard gun the HSB drops in with no adjustment.

If you run much higher power and/or a lightweight bolt you may also need to unscrew 1 turn.

[TadsJ2]

17 minutes ago, Davegolf said:

On a standard gun the HSB drops in with no adjustment.

If you run much higher power and/or a lightweight bolt you may also need to unscrew 1 turn.

Yeah, so i understood correctly, thanks 

I have one more question, isnt the bolt travel speed tied to how much FPS my gun is shooting at? I am asking because yesterday i thought that the bolt carrier speed is directly linked to it ONLY (while my gun had 410mm crazy jet, 2021 decepticon 70 degree, G&P NPAS nozzle 5.0) but when I lowered the fps with G&G NPAS to 270fps it still didnt lock the bolt for me... So I guess this is not entirely true is it? Can this also be because of a better airseal?  I noticed that gas efficiency was waaay better than it was with AG V2 NPAS nozzle, and maybe thats what also has some effect on bolt carrier traveling speed? 

Edited May 12, 2021 by TadsJ2

[Wild Weasel]

 

TadsJ2 10p is similar diameter as a quarter dollar (I have both in my buffer tube)

 

Once again kudos to fire support for helping me out as the John Wick fde bolt carrier from angry gun does not accept the standard size sealing buffer without binding in the bore (dp enhanced or Marui), additionally the gas key nozzle guide will pull straight off the slightly smaller screws on the top of the carrier. So in order to use this effectively with whatever nozzle you decide to use you will require the sealing buffer and the plastic guide gas key from angry gun to make it work effectively in my opinion.

So hats off to fire support for helping me sort these items in time for my next game cheers lads.

 

Aftermarket parts are turning into absolute nightmare for me, I wish to God I could just buy a standard bare Marui bolt from somewhere.

[TadsJ2]

So long story short - i've put everything back, meaning, ML 410mm crazy jet, decepticon + omega nub, G&P reinforced nozzle set, dynamic precision enchanced sealing buffer, AG 170% nozzle return spring, G&P Nozzle NPAS 5.0...
AND unscrewed buffer tube by one full cycle back... AND bolt lock works now, though not everytime on one of the mags, but it works pretty damn well, i dont want to give another turn because of what WildWeasel told me, so I will just wait out for HSB to arrive to me and then will try to give it another full rotation backwards and see the results  But for now i am really happy with it, i've put my NPAS to shoot on 394FPS, and it holds it really REALLY god damn well, its WAY better than AG V2 NPAS (no surprise here, huh). 
I also got the G&P adjustable piston valve if for some reason G&P 5.0 NPAS will start failing me  

Thank you for your help guys, I really appreciate it and cant wait to field my gun to see the differences of the innerbarrel and bucking upgrade  
Have a nice one

Edited May 12, 2021 by TadsJ2

[TadsJ2]

Okay guys, so up to the next problem.
I've read in this tread that buffer tube cap unscrewing itself is no big deal and i should use loctite... What loctite do you suggest me using? Low or medium power?

Another problem I also ran into yesterday was with G&P 5.0 NPAS nozzle:
 In my setup the gun is shooting too hot, field limit for non dmr's is around 425FPS, i was trying to set up my MTR to shoot at 393FPS but it is practically impossible for me to do that with only trying to set up NPAS. I can set it up to have  a consistent 380-387FPS or 410FPS , and I would be fine with 410 FPS but it randomly shoots up to 442FPS which is way over my field limit and judges wont let me field my gbbr  
I thought that this is probably of NPAS screw getting too loose, so i loctited it with medium strength loctite, but still, its either 387 or 410 FPS with random 1-2 shots with +10 FPS. 
So my question to you is what can i do to loose ~10FPS ? I would like to go for ~400FPS on my build for summer games.
I've got a Guns Modify 150% Nozzle Reset Spring Set installed, in my G&P reinforced nozzle set, so i've wondered if i would change the spring which is holding nozzle in place to a standard one, would it lower my FPS? 

Edited May 13, 2021 by TadsJ2

[Wild Weasel]

39 minutes ago, TadsJ2 said:

Okay guys, so up to the next problem.
I've read in this tread that buffer tube cap unscrewing itself is no big deal and i should use loctite... What loctite do you suggest me using? Low or medium power?

Another problem I also ran into yesterday was with G&P 5.0 NPAS nozzle:
 In my setup the gun is shooting too hot, field limit for non dmr's is around 425FPS, i was trying to set up my MTR to shoot at 393FPS but it is practically impossible for me to do that with only trying to set up NPAS. I can set it up to have  a consistent 380-387FPS or 410FPS , and I would be fine with 410 FPS but it randomly shoots up to 442FPS which is way over my field limit and would judges wont let me field my gbbr  
I thought that this is probably of NPAS screw getting too loose, so i loctited it with medium strength loctite, but still, its either 387 or 410 FPS with random 1-2 shots with +10 FPS. 
So my question to you is what can i do to loose ~10FPS ? I would like to go for ~400FPS on my build for summer games.
I've got a Guns Modify 150% Nozzle Reset Spring Set installed, in my G&P reinforced nozzle set, so i've wondered if i would change the spring which is holding nozzle in place to a standard one, would it lower my FPS? 

Just as a suggestion you could try if you have a spare to shorten the spring in front of the npas to reduce the gas required before the valve closes and the excess is used to cycle the action?

[TadsJ2]

2 minutes ago, Wild Weasel said:

Just as a suggestion you could try if you have a spare to shorten the spring in front of the npas to reduce the gas required before the valve closes and the excess is used to cycle the action?

so in theory this should help with gas consistency? will it affect FPS? 

[sabaka]

4 hours ago, TadsJ2 said:

Okay guys, so up to the next problem.
I've read in this tread that buffer tube cap unscrewing itself is no big deal and i should use loctite... What loctite do you suggest me using? Low or medium power?

Another problem I also ran into yesterday was with G&P 5.0 NPAS nozzle:
 In my setup the gun is shooting too hot, field limit for non dmr's is around 425FPS, i was trying to set up my MTR to shoot at 393FPS but it is practically impossible for me to do that with only trying to set up NPAS. I can set it up to have  a consistent 380-387FPS or 410FPS , and I would be fine with 410 FPS but it randomly shoots up to 442FPS which is way over my field limit and judges wont let me field my gbbr  
I thought that this is probably of NPAS screw getting too loose, so i loctited it with medium strength loctite, but still, its either 387 or 410 FPS with random 1-2 shots with +10 FPS. 
So my question to you is what can i do to loose ~10FPS ? I would like to go for ~400FPS on my build for summer games.
I've got a Guns Modify 150% Nozzle Reset Spring Set installed, in my G&P reinforced nozzle set, so i've wondered if i would change the spring which is holding nozzle in place to a standard one, would it lower my FPS? 

i used blue (medium) loctite for end cap and for screw too.

[AlphaBear]

I’ve been having way too much fun here. Let me explain......

 

So, I wanted to try out a Unity mount on the MWS and wasn’t sure if I’d want to spend £200 on the real deal. I mean what if I didn’t like it? It’s a lot of money to spend on a real steel mount especially if you don’t like it afterwards. So fortunately Unity provide a template which you can download and create a mock up model of the mount. So guess what I did. Yup. Craft time 😂

 

Whatcha think fellas? Cerakote it? 😂. 
 

On a serious note the mount is pretty tall. It’s a 2.26inch variant which gives you a better shooting position when looking down the barrel.

 

So based on this would you buy one? 

 

 

Edited May 13, 2021 by AlphaBear

[C-Diddy]

29 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

I’ve been having way too much fun here. Let me explain......

 

So, I wanted to try out a Unity mount on the MWS and wasn’t sure if I’d want to spend £200 on the real deal. I mean what if I didn’t like it? It’s a lot of money to spend on a real steel mount especially if you don’t like it afterwards. So fortunately Unity provide a template which you can download and create a mock up model of the mount. So guess what I did. Yup. Craft time 😂

 

Whatcha think fellas? Cerakote it? 😂. 
 

On a serious note the mount is pretty tall. It’s a 2.26inch variant which gives you a better shooting position when looking down the barrel.

 

So based on this would you buy one? 

 

 

Awesome! What brand tape do you recommend to secure it to the upper?

[AlphaBear]

4 minutes ago, C-Diddy said:

Awesome! What brand tape do you recommend to secure it to the upper?

Real steel brand of sellotape. No knock off clone tape 

 

[camden]

2 hours ago, AlphaBear said:

I’ve been having way too much fun here. Let me explain......

 

So, I wanted to try out a Unity mount on the MWS and wasn’t sure if I’d want to spend £200 on the real deal. I mean what if I didn’t like it? It’s a lot of money to spend on a real steel mount especially if you don’t like it afterwards. So fortunately Unity provide a template which you can download and create a mock up model of the mount. So guess what I did. Yup. Craft time 😂

 

Whatcha think fellas? Cerakote it? 😂. 
 

On a serious note the mount is pretty tall. It’s a 2.26inch variant which gives you a better shooting position when looking down the barrel.

 

So based on this would you buy one? 

 

I bought it and love it. It just takes a little to get use to as it does change your sahooting position for the better!

 

2 hours ago, AlphaBear said:

 

[AlphaBear]

38 minutes ago, camden said:

 

 

If you have a spare moment can you lob up a pic of it on one of your RIF's. And are you using any magnification with your optic? Thx

[camden]

3 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

If you have a spare moment can you lob up a pic of it on one of your RIF's. And are you using any magnification with your optic? Thx

 

Hi Alphabear. I "misspoke" earlier: I own the PTS version/clone and am happy with it (so not the actual expensive RS Unity). ...and yes, there is a bolt missing in my HAO rail :(

[AlphaBear]

19 minutes ago, camden said:

 

Hi Alphabear. I "misspoke" earlier: I own the PTS version/clone and am happy with it (so not the actual expensive RS Unity). ...and yes, there is a bolt missing in my HAO rail :(

I’m trying not to look at that hole where the screw should be in the rail. Damn Ocd.  😂

 

The mount does look good! I’m warming to it truth be told. The PTS version is supposed to be a very good licensed replica as you already know from having one.  Thanks for the pics. Appreciated. 

[camden]

19 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

I’m trying not to look at that hole where the screw should be in the rail. Damn Ocd.  😂

 

The mount does look good! I’m warming to it truth be told. The PTS version is supposed to be a very good licensed replica as you already know from having one.  Thanks for the pics. Appreciated. 

Just so that you can sleep better tonight: replacement screw is in the post from HAO 😂

There is an even cheaper version available on ebay I have just been made aware, just search for: Unity Style Fast Micro Aimpoint T1 / T2 High Rise Mount Only Black / FDE Airsoft