standard AEG to a blowback?

[Pricey-1991]

As the title states is it possible to change a standard AEG ver 2. gearbox to a EBB? I know the blowback is just for looks but I think it looks sick when your running round and youve got the blowback on it. I dont want to go out and buy a whole new AEG as I'm planning on upgrading mine as it is so just want to know if it is possible or do i have to go out and buy a new gearbox just for this function?

[proffrink]

You need to go out and buy a whole new AEG.

[two_zero]

^pretty much that. thou if you go AK/v3, it looks like to me that any CYMA VFC clone (cm.045/048/050) would be able to be blowback converted with parts from the cm.050 which is blowback.

[TheGrover]

Buy a GBBR

 

Seriously, once you've tried a real blowback gun, no ebb will ever be worth it. I don't even notice the blowback on my TR15 because it doesn't move my arm

[two_zero]

Buy a GBBR

 

Seriously, once you've tried a real blowback gun, no ebb will ever be worth it. I don't even notice the blowback on my TR15 because it doesn't move my arm

yea... mate broke his wrist from GBB blowback :/

 

Seriously thou, it seems OP is only just starting airsoft. Getting a GBBr at that stage is generally *not* advisable.

[TheGrover]

Ah, I'm on mobile so couldn't see the post count. Don't buy a GBBR for a first gun, just get an AEG, don't expect any satisfying recoil (unless the new fangled tm recoil guns live up to hype) and join the dark side after you're into the sport and fairly sure you're not going to get bored and end up with loads of expensive gear you never use

[Pricey-1991]

I've been playing for about 2 years now got all my own gear but am wanting to start to modify and upgrade my gun after reading the comments on here though might have a look down the p* route expensive but the reviews I've read and watched sound pretty good

[proffrink]

If you're concerned about blow back then look into an HPA-rigged Tippmann or maybe even a Daytona Gun (if you have the dosh). Solenoid HPA engines don't have any of that sweet sweet recoil of course.

[jcheeseright]

Ah, I'm on mobile so couldn't see the post count. Don't buy a GBBR for a first gun, just get an AEG, don't expect any satisfying recoil (unless the new fangled tm recoil guns live up to hype) and join the dark side after you're into the sport and fairly sure you're not going to get bored and end up with loads of expensive gear you never use

New fangled?! They've been on the market for like 5 years!

[ak2m4]

I think in this case I would just get a second AEG with it build in. Or maybe wait a while and see what the new DAS recoil AEG's are like. I spoke to the manufacturers this week and should be getting more info and pricing soon - hopefully a sample.

[mightyjebus]

actually you can mod the existing gearbox to make it EBB. It's not simple and involves cutting a slot in the gearbox so that you can connect a rod to the piston and it will shorten the gearbox life but it's still doable.

[BrightCandle]

An EBB IMO is mostly about the noise. Yes the bolt moves but its the noise that everyone notices, they are a lot louder and normally quite a distinctive tone depending on the model.

 

I personally wouldn't to try modding this in, the two ways its done both make a gearbox quite custom and it would be extremely tricky to make this a reliable mechanism that lasts and that didn't just wreck the parts. Its plausible but its not something you can buy parts for.

 

You really have a couple of options if the recoil is what you want, either a recoil gun like TM makes or for a much harder kick a gas blow back.

[Pricey-1991]

If you're concerned about blow back then look into an HPA-rigged Tippmann or maybe even a Daytona Gun (if you have the dosh). Solenoid HPA engines don't have any of that sweet sweet recoil of course.

Been looking into both the tippman and Daytona routes both look awesome but personally think the Daytona looks better. The recoil in it looks imo more realistic and saw a vid on good old YouTube of an m249 drop in kit which looks amazing and personally if I saw that on the field I'd pray they are on my team or stay the fuck out of the way of it, the sound of it sounds as close to a real fire arm as you can get. Only problem is when I look on the Dayton site everything is out of stock, does anyone know how to get hold of one or do you have to email them to say you want one?

[n1ckh]

There's a recoil kit available for (I believe) about £80 & if you want as close to real steel sound then buy a sound hog (it's an amplifier) or make your own with a cheap silencer where the end caps unscrew

[Sitting Duck]

Just to point out if you are upgrading your gun

if you choose to increase its rof quite a bit

then expect also quite a bit of wear quickly and bits wearing loose & coming adrift at higher speeds

 

personally me thinks its just a gimmick and more to go wrong on aeg's

if I want to hear clackety clack I'll put my toy gun away and dig out my old Hornby train set

But whatever floats ya boat

[proffrink]

Been looking into both the tippman and Daytona routes both look awesome but personally think the Daytona looks better. The recoil in it looks imo more realistic and saw a vid on good old YouTube of an m249 drop in kit which looks amazing and personally if I saw that on the field I'd pray they are on my team or stay the f*ck out of the way of it, the sound of it sounds as close to a real fire arm as you can get. Only problem is when I look on the Dayton site everything is out of stock, does anyone know how to get hold of one or do you have to email them to say you want one?

Daytona is objectively the better system - it'll last longer than Tippmann and is a more consistent shooter. It's expensive because the parts are all CNC'd then hand-assembled before being shipped off as kits. I have the M249 myself and it's the best airsoft gun I've ever owned (and I've had a fair few GBBRs now).

 

They sell out quickly so your best bet is to join the Facebook group and wait for Tony Rizzo to announce the newest batches as they come in. Also try HPAirsoft as they might stock it too.

 

You need a good sized 80+ci 4500psi tank and a decent regulator as well as a donor gun (anything but G&P for the M249) so it's not cheap but I honestly think they're the best airsoft guns out there right now.

[Pricey-1991]

Proffrink have you got the m249 Daytona kit then? Is it easy to install and do you need to do any mods to the bar gun itself before fitting? Been trying to find guides and vids on how to do both the m249 and the m4 versions but can't find a lot really lol

[proffrink]

I do, yeh. I feel it's the easiest out of all of them to install - just take a Dremel to the area where the trigger mechanism pokes up into the reciever to extend it by about 15mm so the airline can go in. After that it's just a case of assembling the hop and a bit of fiddling with getting the line into place.

 

I can do a bunch of photos for you if you're stuck. If you join the FB group on the files section there's a document with some pictures. Like I say, it's nothing to complicated because all the parts are pretty big. You kind of want to disassemble it and then reassemble it with threadlock so it doesn't shake itself apart, but again this is pretty straight forward.

[Pricey-1991]

Ah sweet sounds good if you could mate that'd be awesome it's probably going to take me some time to get it all and do it as the missus wont be too happy with me doing it but I'll just tell her that if she wants a happy and quiet life to let me get on "playing action man" as she puts it lol

[Lozart]

I do, yeh. I feel it's the easiest out of all of them to install - just take a Dremel to the area where the trigger mechanism pokes up into the reciever to extend it by about 15mm so the airline can go in. After that it's just a case of assembling the hop and a bit of fiddling with getting the line into place.

 

I can do a bunch of photos for you if you're stuck. If you join the FB group on the files section there's a document with some pictures. Like I say, it's nothing to complicated because all the parts are pretty big. You kind of want to disassemble it and then reassemble it with threadlock so it doesn't shake itself apart, but again this is pretty straight forward.

 

 

When you say it's expensive....how much are we talking to do an M249?

[proffrink]

So here's what I'd say for the complete thing:

 

Kit

$475 + VAT + import tax*

 

*You can get TNK to quote it on the package a bit lower so you only pay about £30-50 tax

 

Lube (DGs have a recommended lube called GetSome 1000)

~$14 per bottle (you'll want two or three as they're impossible to get over here)

 

Delrin crush ring, spare bucking, Delrin ball (and spares) for hop

~$25 total

 

Rig

88/4500 tank (on the M249 you kind of want two but one at a minimum)

~£170

 

Red Line Firebase or their new reg (coming out in a couple of weeks), the SFR. SFR won't be available in the UK for a bit I wouldn't have thought, so you can slap VAT on that too

~$155

 

Wide bore line

~$40 (can be bought in the UK for £36)

 

So really you're looking at about £670.

[Lozart]

So here's what I'd say for the complete thing:

 

Kit

$475 + VAT + import tax*

 

*You can get TNK to quote it on the package a bit lower so you only pay about £30-50 tax

 

Rig

88/4500 tank (on the M249 you kind of want two but one at a minimum)

~£170

 

Red Line Firebase or their new reg (coming out in a couple of weeks), the SFR. SFR won't be available in the UK for a bit I wouldn't have thought, so you can slap VAT on that too

~$155

 

Wide bore line

~$40 (can be bought in the UK for £36)

 

Lube (DGs have a recommended lube called GetSome 1000)

~$14 per bottle (you'll want two or three as they're impossible to get over here)

 

So really you're looking at about £670.

 

 

 

Sheeeeeit!

 

What about the Wolverine Inferno? Any good? Beesting are selling the kit around £415 for an M249...

[proffrink]

I wouldn't be able to comment - that's a solenoid-base HPA engine like Polarstar and the like so it's very different in the way it works, sorry.

[Lozart]

I wouldn't be able to comment - that's a solenoid-base HPA engine like Polarstar and the like so it's very different in the way it works, sorry.

 

Pardon my ignorance but what's the difference?

[proffrink]

Everything but the power source really.

 

I'd put HPA engines into two main categories (works with 90% of them): Solenoid and non-solenoid/fully pneumatic

 

Solenoid ones have an electric valve that blocks the airflow (or unblocks it temporarily when you want to shoot). Think of it as a tap, but an electrically powered tap. This is why Polarstar, Valken, Kuba, SMP etc. need a battery to operate (and can use an FCU). In this way they are more similar to your standard AEG and fit into AEG bodies much more readily because they're shaped like gearboxes but - more importantly - the electric triggers in an AEG work with them.

 

Fully pneumatic/mechanical systems just use sheer mechanics to block or unblock airflow. Again, it's like a tap, but an actual tap this time. Daytona Gun, Escort and Sun Project (the latter two being very old tech now from the days when airsoft was basically paintball and most people ran HPA before TM came in with the first AEG - the FAMAS). They're all big chunks of metal that fly about much more like GBBRs than solenoid-based engines. This has a huge advantage for me because they can - and do - include reciprocating parts that can mimic recoil comparable to a lot of GBBRs. They are slightly less functional than solenoid-based engines because the valve cannot open and shut as quickly as a solenoid can operate one so rate-of-fire wise they are less competitive (this is kind of a moot point though because some DGs can shoot up to 30rps anyway, which is more than enough).

 

For me, I really like the fully pneumatic ones. An absolute joy to shoot (proper and crisp pneumatic blow-back), but consistent because they use HPA and very reliable because there's no electronics - in fact they're waterproof. That's why Daytona Gun costs more than even a Polarstar right now.

 

Edit

Like I say, this doesn't cover everything. For example I'd class Tippmann as also being a purely pneumatic blow back system but something like the Mancraft PDiKs may look like a solenoid-base engine but in reality it uses no electronics but also has no blowback (a kind of middle-ground for the two categories in that it's really simple, but also it doesn't have the advantage of blow back - like with most of the other solely pneumatic systems, but also doesn't have the insane rate of fire that some of the solenoid-based designs have) - basically it's great for DMRs.

 

Here're two images. The one at the top is my A&K M249 with its dirty (I cleaned it after the pic, I promise) engine. Bottom is a Polarstar Fusion engine modified slightly to fit into an A&K M249. They're basically chalk and cheese yet both run off HPA.