Just got a G&G Scar-L and i want to upgrade it any idea's?

[MrCheesman94]

I just Swapped my Vltor M4 for a G&G Scar-L FN Herstal Licensed,

 

When i was testing it, it was shooting at 190 FPS with 0.25g bb's, i have been informed that it has a 6.01 Tight bore barrel but i would like to have an insane rate of fire and a higher fps

[AK47frizzle]

You want a laser, 13:1 gears, high torque motor, 29.6v lipo battery, metal piston, metal stuff, more metal stuff, 6.03mm diameter psg1 length barrel, jbbg silicon grease, Guarder sp170 srping and metal BBs for ultimate torture

[remus]

unless theres something wrong with it the spring has been downgraded so ide start with the spring. if its been swapped might be worth taking appart to see how worn the internals are and replace by frizzels list in order of necessity. 190 for .25s is quite low to me...

[JackHG]

unless theres something wrong with it the spring has been downgraded so ide start with the spring. if its been swapped might be worth taking appart to see how worn the internals are and replace by frizzels list in order of necessity. 190 for .25s is quite low to me...

Listen to Remus he is right

[MrCheesman94]

You want a laser, 13:1 gears, high torque motor, 29.6v lipo battery, metal piston, metal stuff, more metal stuff, 6.03mm diameter psg1 length barrel, jbbg silicon grease, Guarder sp170 srping and metal BBs for ultimate torture

how much of this list is true lol andi was told they tried putting a bigger spring in it before i had it and it wouldn't cycle

[Lozart]

I just Swapped my Vltor M4 for a G&G Scar-L FN Herstal Licensed,

 

When i was testing it, it was shooting at 190 FPS with 0.25g bb's, i have been informed that it has a 6.01 Tight bore barrel but i would like to have an insane rate of fire and a higher fps

 

Sounds like someone has fucked that up for you. Mine was chrono'd yesterday at 330ish on 0.20s. 190 sounds very low to me.

[Lozart]

how much of this list is true lol andi was told they tried putting a bigger spring in it before i had it and it wouldn't cycle

 

Definitely sounds like something is fucked then. Could be they haven't got the hop rubber in properly and it's not sealing or they've screwed up something in the gearbox trying to fit a different spring.

[remus]

thats my thinking find out whats wrong see if its fixable and see after that what you want to upgrade. no point sinking money into it till shes shooting right...

[MrCheesman94]

I don't suppose anybody knows what i'm about to ask. At airsoft GI one of the Tech's Mark has a Scar which is insane does anyone know he has in his Scar?

[MrCheesman94]

Just to show what i mean watch this video watch how fast Marq Shoots

 

[remus]

see im not a fan of high rps, specially when it only takes one round to put someone out, specially when your guns are firing faster than the real thing... id work on sorting fps and accuarcy first. thsi may well explain what i mean(course its biased propraganda but has a few points.

[Airsoft-Ed]

I don't like unrealistically high rof either, but if you want your gun to be snappy and responsive on semi-auto as well then you're going to end up with it shooting over 20 rounds a second for it to not feel sluggish.

That's what I love about gas guns, instant trigger response without the rof needing to be moronically high on full auto.

As for this SCAR in question though, I'm betting there's all sorts of air seal issues for it to be shooting at 190, there's no way in hell anyone would downgrade something that low, there's no call for it whatsoever.

I'd check the hop, the piston and the cylinder head, it's possible all the seals are shagged, there could potentially by piston wear too, making it release early.

Or perhaps the cylinder is ported and it was put in backwards...

[Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies]

190 on .25s sounds way too low,and you have a tightbore which means that's even worse,tightbores generally increase velocity by a fair bit. Sound like air seal issues. It could be that the tight bore installed was fudged and the hop up rubber is not installed correctly. I'd crack open the hop up to try see if the hop up rubber is in good shape. Airsofters also love to wash things with silicone magic oil,I'd give the rubber a good rinse in some warm water just to get any crap off of it. Wash it in fiary liquid if there is a noticeable deposit of crap on it.

 

Once installing it again wrap the end of the rubber with PTFE tape or better yet,dental floss.

 

If that does not sort out the FPS issues it could be a sleuth of gearbox issues.

 

Once you have the accuracy and air seal issues done ( the most important ones) Then you can move onto gearbox work.

 

If you want high trigger response/high RPS Here's what I'd recommend-

 

Chinese high torque neodymium motor (preferably 20 TPA or more,ZCI,Chaoli and JG make good ones) SHS motors,although at only 16 TPA are also very good and efficient.

 

Low resistance wiring

 

Basic Mosfet- Gate Pico SSR2s are very popular. I however often use ASG 'ultimate' mosfets since they are very easy to come by for me and rather cheap. I ran mine on a 35c 9.9 LiFE with no issues.

 

High speed gears - SHS 13:1 gears and SHS 12:1 gears are good quality. They've improved their machining quality on the latest batches now and no longer have bevel gears that like to grenade themselves.

 

Good shimming- Bad shimming often creates stress & resistance on the gears which you do not want. Make sure Bevel to pinion contact is perfect. May be hard since some V2 guns which house motors in the pistol grips have poor alignment - G&G is an offender on some models on this. Tokyo Marui and ZCI pistol grips give the best motor alignment I've found.

 

AOE correction- This is adding spacers on the cylinder head (Usually sorbothane) to make sure the gear contacts it at 90 degrees to prevent wear. On guns with higher RPS on stronger springs or guns which use higher power batteries like 11.1 lipos this is a 100% required job- My opinion is that manufacturers should be doing this out of the box but whatever. It preserves your piston to a great degree. Also by using sorbo pads to space it out you reduce stress on the gearbox shell. Two birds with one stone.

 

A good website for this sort of stuff is Airsofting Tutorials. Offer well presented advice on how to mod the guns.

http://airsofttutorials.com/

 

When looking for shimming guides search 'bevel to pinion shimming' This is the most efficient way to shim gears as the bevel to pinion contact is the source of 90% of the screech in a gun.

 

Use the google for terms which you might not understand.

 

Or you can buy the right parts and send it to a reputable tech if you are not comfortable doing it yourself just yet.

[MrCheesman94]

I don't like unrealistically high rof either, but if you want your gun to be snappy and responsive on semi-auto as well then you're going to end up with it shooting over 20 rounds a second for it to not feel sluggish.

 

That's what I love about gas guns, instant trigger response without the rof needing to be moronically high on full auto.

 

As for this SCAR in question though, I'm betting there's all sorts of air seal issues for it to be shooting at 190, there's no way in hell anyone would downgrade something that low, there's no call for it whatsoever.

 

I'd check the hop, the piston and the cylinder head, it's possible all the seals are shagged, there could potentially by piston wear too, making it release early.

 

Or perhaps the cylinder is ported and it was put in backwards...

i understand the whole RoF you guys are on about i have a gun that i consider to be Realistic so i would like a gun that is Unrealistic

[remus]

yer agreed. get what ever is doing that sorted and whomever is looking at it could prob advise you as to what to do next. are you intending on doing it yourself or getting someone to do it? also what batteries are you using? lipo could be the way for you?

[MrCheesman94]

190 on .25s sounds way too low,and you have a tightbore which means that's even worse,tightbores generally increase velocity by a fair bit. Sound like air seal issues. It could be that the tight bore installed was fudged and the hop up rubber is not installed correctly. I'd crack open the hop up to try see if the hop up rubber is in good shape. Airsofters also love to wash things with silicone magic oil,I'd give the rubber a good rinse in some warm water just to get any crap off of it. Wash it in fiary liquid if there is a noticeable deposit of crap on it.

 

Once installing it again wrap the end of the rubber with PTFE tape or better yet,dental floss.

 

If that does not sort out the FPS issues it could be a sleuth of gearbox issues.

 

Once you have the accuracy and air seal issues done ( the most important ones) Then you can move onto gearbox work.

 

If you want high trigger response/high RPS Here's what I'd recommend-

 

Chinese high torque neodymium motor (preferably 20 TPA or more,ZCI,Chaoli and JG make good ones) SHS motors,although at only 16 TPA are also very good and efficient.

 

Low resistance wiring

 

Basic Mosfet- Gate Pico SSR2s are very popular. I however often use ASG 'ultimate' mosfets since they are very easy to come by for me and rather cheap. I ran mine on a 35c 9.9 LiFE with no issues.

 

High speed gears - SHS 13:1 gears and SHS 12:1 gears are good quality. They've improved their machining quality on the latest batches now and no longer have bevel gears that like to grenade themselves.

 

Good shimming- Bad shimming often creates stress & resistance on the gears which you do not want. Make sure Bevel to pinion contact is perfect. May be hard since some V2 guns which house motors in the pistol grips have poor alignment - G&G is an offender on some models on this. Tokyo Marui and ZCI pistol grips give the best motor alignment I've found.

 

AOE correction- This is adding spacers on the cylinder head (Usually sorbothane) to make sure the gear contacts it at 90 degrees to prevent wear. On guns with higher RPS on stronger springs or guns which use higher power batteries like 11.1 lipos this is a 100% required job- My opinion is that manufacturers should be doing this out of the box but whatever. It preserves your piston to a great degree. Also by using sorbo pads to space it out you reduce stress on the gearbox shell. Two birds with one stone.

 

A good website for this sort of stuff is Airsofting Tutorials. Offer well presented advice on how to mod the guns.

http://airsofttutorials.com/

 

When looking for shimming guides search 'bevel to pinion shimming' This is the most efficient way to shim gears as the bevel to pinion contact is the source of 90% of the screech in a gun.

 

Use the google for terms which you might not understand.

 

Or you can buy the right parts and send it to a reputable tech if you are not comfortable doing it yourself just yet.

i would love to be able to do it myself but i have never opened a Scar or any AEG i am looking for broken Scar as i have realized there is a few bits missing(Externally) but if anyone is selling broken AEG's i would love to strip them just to take a look

[MrCheesman94]

yer agreed. get what ever is doing that sorted and whomever is looking at it could prob advise you as to what to do next. are you intending on doing it yourself or getting someone to do it? also what batteries are you using? lipo could be the way for you?

I will be using a Lipo that is for sure

[remus]

i got a cheap second hand aug just to dismantle and see whats what with internals myself(just didnt figure that getting certain aug parts would be so dammed hard) and do reccommend something similar if you can before potentially damaging a quite expensive gun. when ever you find out whats wrong let us know(love the look of a scar just too expensive....)

[MrCheesman94]

i got a cheap second hand aug just to dismantle and see whats what with internals myself(just didnt figure that getting certain aug parts would be so dammed hard) and do reccommend something similar if you can before potentially damaging a quite expensive gun. when ever you find out whats wrong let us know(love the look of a scar just too expensive....)

yeh i will not open the Scar its worth £450 brand new from the shop it was brought and i will put a short video up for you guys when i have it finished and i'm assuming that even a cheap m4 will still have the same stuff as a expensive one just cheaper quality so i might find a crappy broken gun just to open

[CaptainDumbass]

Okay okay, you want a high speed scar? I'm your guy

I recently turned my scar into a HS setup and now it fires 40rps @ 340fps

 

Parts you will need:
m100 Spring

Steel teeth piston

SHS ultra high torque motor

SHS/Super Shooter 13:1 Gear set

Shims, Lots of them

teflon grease

better gearbox wiring

Mosfet (this is a must)

6.03mm 363mm Madbull barrel (optional)

And a 9.9V LiFePO4 battery (I recommend staying away from 11v lipo's)

 

Work required:

Hours and hours worth of shimming & greasing the new gears. (this is the most important part of the entire set up, its a pain in the ass but if there is one wrong shimmed gear it will slow it down dramatically)

Greasing basically any moving part in the gun.

Swiss cheesing the piston slightly. (don't got ott with this i hardly did any)

Making sure the contact between the motor pinion gear and bevel gear is aligned perfectly, you cant afford to tighten you pistol grip too much/little.

Correcting angle of engagement.

Polishing cylinder head.

(optional, but i personally think its worth it) Hair Trigger

 

All the tutorials and tips to do all of the above processes can be found at http://airsofttutorials.com/tutorials.html

 

By installing all the listed parts and doing the required work you will have a very high speed gun and instant trigger response.

[MrCheesman94]

Okay okay, you want a high speed scar? I'm your guy

I recently turned my scar into a HS setup and now it fires 40rps @ 340fps

 

Parts you will need:

m100 Spring

Steel teeth piston

SHS ultra high torque motor

SHS/Super Shooter 13:1 Gear set

Shims, Lots of them

teflon grease

better gearbox wiring

Mosfet (this is a must)

6.03mm 363mm Madbull barrel (optional)

And a 9.9V LiFePO4 battery (I recommend staying away from 11v lipo's)

 

Work required:

Hours and hours worth of shimming & greasing the new gears. (this is the most important part of the entire set up, its a pain in the ass but if there is one wrong shimmed gear it will slow it down dramatically)

Greasing basically any moving part in the gun.

Swiss cheesing the piston slightly. (don't got ott with this i hardly did any)

Making sure the contact between the motor pinion gear and bevel gear is aligned perfectly, you cant afford to tighten you pistol grip too much/little.

Correcting angle of engagement.

Polishing cylinder head.

(optional, but i personally think its worth it) Hair Trigger

 

All the tutorials and tips to do all of the above processes can be found at http://airsofttutorials.com/tutorials.html

 

By installing all the listed parts and doing the required work you will have a very high speed gun and instant trigger response.

I am writing down this so i can give it to my tech lol and thanks this is just what im looking for

[Guest PT247]

I get not everyone is a milsimmer, myself included. But, what is this obsession with rps? You are shooting RIFs, the real steel fires at roughly 1.5 rps (unless Google lies), so unless you are an absolute shit shot, why does anyone want a 40rps bullshit set up? Learn to shoot and learn to shoot single shot, your life will be made instantaneously better by not being a hi-cap wanker and you will have far more accuracy and range as your gun will perform a full-stroke for every shot. 40rps is bollox, if you need that you need some fucking training!

 

Get your guns shooting straight, get some range, get some skills..... using anything over 1 hicap a game shows you are a hit and hope. (I am not against hicap mags as they save weight etc, but ffs learn some trigger discipline!)

[MrCheesman94]

I get not everyone is a milsimmer, myself included. But, what is this obsession with rps? You are shooting RIFs, the real steel fires at roughly 1.5 rps (unless Google lies), so unless you are an absolute sh*t shot, why does anyone want a 40rps bullshit set up? Learn to shoot and learn to shoot single shot, your life will be made instantaneously better by not being a hi-cap wanker and you will have far more accuracy and range as your gun will perform a full-stroke for every shot. 40rps is bollox, if you need that you need some f*cking training!

 

Get your guns shooting straight, get some range, get some skills..... using anything over 1 hicap a game shows you are a hit and hope. (I am not against hicap mags as they save weight etc, but ffs learn some trigger discipline!)

My Main gun is a Ares am-009 which shots at 460 fps 0.2g withno upgrades if i really want to go down the line of accuracy it will be with this gun and the only things i would do to this is hop up and tightbore

[Guest PT247]

that wouldn't be allowed at my site as DMR rifles have a 400 fps limit, but if done right could be an absolute beast. Hope you get it to the level you want mate.

[Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies]

The obsession with RPS is mainly linked to obsession with pushing things to the limit and even the previously mentioned being a shit shot,or just feeling like slinging more plastic down range. 40 RPS Is a nice way to get people to take their hits. The main benefit of high speed guns is very fast trigger response. However this highly depends on the build,you can have 10:1 super high speed gears yet only push 28RPS on an 11.1 because you have an ultra slow 28 TPA torque motor and have near PTW quality of response(Especially if you have a hair trigger)

 

Personally I'd let people Use whatever guns they please,even in milsims. I've seen plenty of sights where people with 40RPS monsters walk slowly towards the enemy,suppressing them and wasting massive amounts of ammo only to get killed by one shot. No matter how good the gun is it's useless in the hands on a git who cannot into hittings largest side of barn.