Sitting Duck

There ya go then - you have your very own Liza I have the Umarex ARX160 Sportsline - weird thing Press bolt catch release - mag drops out Press another button barrel hop releases Bit confusing about a couple of them release buttons Think it is a V3 in there of some description (kinda like the APS UAR, taking M4 ish mags) QC V3 like UAR - it was just one of COD guns Duck Jnr liked So bought it but never used it, brittle plastic etc... Can't afford to, some of the parts are very very bespoke If it busts you are basically fucked getting bits

BLIMEY - looks like an AK shagged a shorty shotgun Producing a bastid love-child that an M4 is supporting (Hence the M4 mags) Nice find at bargain price sir If you think of giving her a name - Liza after Liza Minnelli (She didn't inherit her mum Judy Garland's looks But her fugly director dad's looks instead) I'm sure there are other examples of fugly offspring But Liza Minnelli is just one example of inheriting fugliness Nice touch, guess Black Friday came early for you plus some bargain bespoke bits too will come in handy Best of luck with a few tweaks & all that sir

don't blame the student, blame the teacher

yup - I see the fragile ETU mosfet unit just behind the welded motor I'm guessing the red/posi 2.8mm connector snapped off or broke at the bend so little Timmy thought he would get his mate to weld the wire back on (rather than fit new connector) I'll guess he didn't want to fuck up the better motor that was in Predator so then used cheap shitty motor from say a Combat Machine Raider or something I'd lay money there is nice unwelded Ifrit motor kept back by seller... Green nozzle - fuck knows where from, maybe some cheap unbranded OEM thingy, that was perhaps a bit to snug in G&G hop unit - even some red SHS nozzles can be a tiny bit snug in a brand new G&G hop unit... (Other times they move smoothly - maybe minor variations in batches or if they have been "run in" or any minor burr polished out after a few thousand rounds) I'll guess the nozzle is a bit snug & where the box was refitted, the stock tightened up, tilted box upwards slightly at front. Which then caused the nozzle to rub more at top of hop unit inside - thus the nozzle doesn't fly back n forth smoothly but snags instead Wanker tech, not for making these errors - we have all had grief and we are still dropping the ball at times with shitty toy guns But they are a WANKER for palming it off onto others Than fix the fucking thing properly If they did it correctly, they probably would keep it But nope fuck up the "upgrades" (semi wanker) Couldn't or couldn't be arsed to fix it (lazy wanker) Then offload it onto somebody else (fucking wanker)

I'd thought the Predator would have had the 25k Orange Ifrit motor than the shit grey 18k ferrite motor but the standard of work & craftmanship leaves me lost for words...

how do you jam a nozzle - even tappet plate should fly freely as ETU has no convential trigger trolley shuttling below it must have been assembled by Stevie Wonder & Ray Charles maybe aftermarket nozzle was way too loose on G&G tappet and got borked in use ??? wires chewed up - well by motor they can get chewed and tbh on ETU they should run both the motor wires down back and just have the ETU signal wire/cable by motor entry point on v2 box

If it was a G&G Predator then that has ETU so 50% blame goes to G&G to be fair but I wish kids trying be wannabe techs would stop fucking up their classmates guns (or their own - but blame it on their experienced imaginary tech)

was the gun shooting tracers in the dark the SAME GUN he sold you though ??? and just coz BB's come out doesn't mean it ain't near fucked

I guess Zero In or Zero One forums was down that day min 100/250/500 posts hand note with name/date etc... soz but many different forums adopt this rule and any exemptions - there are some should pm mod with say ebay feedback or something to verify their integrity dodgy sellers can carry on with Free Ad's & other sites, but most of us on here have a bit of integrity & not fleece others, treat as you find & all that

lucky sod, at least he didn't get a fat ugly one

if that has a big dragon M160 motor in there it will fire like fucking high speed 45k rpm on a spring producing 240fps that is a third of the power but some of that is likely due to nozzle filed too short and not sealing against bucking 101% but regardless... the motor is over double the speed of a regular stock/std motor or 50% more than a balanced 25~30k motor low fps/spring, weak spring - yeah you would be hitting even more... motor alone would shoot 25rps on 18:1 gears @ say 340fps add in high speed gears you could acheive say 33rps on 7.4v or 50rps on 11.1v but would be risky on 11.1v weak spring would take it higher money has been spent on it - perhaps but seems like a piss poor tech assembled it OR it WAS assembled correctly onnce but some wanna be has fucked it up & just decided to flogg it on, cutting their losses with it and off loading it motor if a Big Dragon M160 is way too fast, should have strong silver neodym magnets or if not is crappy M120 with weak ferrite - very fast still but not as much grunt (they both tend to draw too much current and run hot - m140 is best motor) gears/box - don't know but looks like it assembled in the dark that could be a hairline cracking starting to appear sooooo if that is correct, then you will need to look at a new gearbox shell £25 https://www.taiwangun.com/gearbox-shell/ver-2-hybrid-gearbox-shell-aps & time to fit it & rectify other issues BUT I would NOT get a APS shell tbh... you want something robust that works than a metal speed mofo in a shell that cracks if you fart near it you can try to contact the seller and at the VERY LEAST seek the cost of a new shell (if that is a fracture appearing - looks like it) or a tech's time say 1hr @ £25 to sort the thing failing that - start a paypal dispute (please don't tell me you gifted the seller money) I'd like to give seller benefit of the doubt & hope this issue can be resolved but at times people selling stuff that is far from description or offloading stuff/shit on its last legs well - that doesn't sit too well with me personally especially when newcomers get left a little bit stung perhaps The issue with some newcomers apart from being a bit naieve if their UKARA hasn't come through, there are people keen to flog shit & ask no questions or you got less comeback (I got stung like that when I first started) get UKARA, buy new shit and forget buying broken guns from moody sellers (now I simply break all my own guns instead )

YES - buy a new gun is that gearbox an APS QC v2 with a hairline crack start to show above cylinder head ??? The first clip/pic seems to show the startings of a small crack appearing to me though it could be a casting defect APS boxes are known to crack if pushed though wtf is an APS doing in a Classic Army M4 what happened to original box how old is this gun (for real, not just 9 months old bollox) sorry you had a bad purchase (didn't buy it from a bloke in Ireland by chance ???) had dealings with a fine tech seller there many years ago... did the bloke put sawdust in the box to quieten down the gear shimming ???

Do you reside somewhere around Bristol or the Outer fucking Hebrides or something ??? where post is sent over by boat once a week or something ??? coz you have had some fucking shit luck have you upset every postal & courier in your neck of the woods ??? hope all turns up OK - in the fucking end sir

bastid beat me to it, my OCD Grammar Nazi kicked in straight away & vein in my head almost exploded instantly with respect the your/you're is probably the most common spelling mistake out there (tip - just use "you are" if trying to avoid looking thick) my response when picked up on my many many typos... Then await the twats to respond with .... *gist - hahaha you idiot you incorrectly spelt gist as jist you moron... No you fool - THAT is the point the meme was MAKING FFS which was proven by you reading it & responding... but you understood the text, but was not capable of comprehending the message silly cnut I KNOW I'm a cunt - everybody reminds me of that one everyday (including myself)

ergh not experienced with higher brand stuff I can only afford the cheapo shit as it lessens the blow to wallet when fucked I would guess fill it with wrong gas & go nutz then send it to somebody like Luke (coz I know fuck all about pistols & especially anything TM related) now if you got a starter gun or cheap mid-range one you want wrecked then yup ask away... I'm just the AF-UK version of Doug (from Scrubs) He has killed sooooo many patients he isn't cut out to be a doctor BUT due to his "experience" he is very knowledgable in diagnosing how a patient died (coz he has killed so many during his time) yup I'm the AF-UK Doug I reckon

At 53 I have finally finished a degree in Fuck All I now profess to have learnt everything about nothing & absolutely nothing about everything What I have gained is a an arsenal of broken toy guns If anybody wants advice on how to break them - I can help Fixing the fuckers so they break less often... Well that is the tricky bit we are all still learning One of my favourites about life n shit (Inc peew peew stuff too)...  Welcome to the forum squire - ignore me (everybody else does) Bet ya seen a lot of changes over the years Only been into it for 6 years just over but stuff has improved in that short while so stuff today must be like a PS5 Vs PSX

Gear ratio might depend if box is reinforced requiring mod for 13:1's like some King Arms, Cyma's even M904G (not all cyma v2's, the new QC Cyma v2's, the 7mm mp5's not reinforced) Not a biggy mod if required for 13:1's But something to consider when planning If box is strong enough - just drop DSG in & run a torque 28tpa with 150/160 spring option ??? Guess it depends what motor you end up getting Lonex A1 then maybe keep stock gears SHS or 25k or 22 TPA maybe 13:1's Old crappy 27 tpa motor, strip & chuck in neodym can & DSG ??? But like everything, where do ya start & where do ya stop I guess

Did you use the G&G "DMR" type selector plate or mod the KWA selector plate for semi only ??? If you used the G&G selector plate, the "arch" might be in a very very slightly different position hence in rare occasions a new/different selector plate can throw out the semi/auto setting & even the safety too... I had that once, think it was a Cyma selector I broke on my first CM.515 the replacement was lovely - except for safety not quite working what it was the slide by switch was a little different and it was only raising the safety arm halfway & not lining up with trigger safety lug, slipping just under it & allowing trigger pull So the new plate was cut different to Cyma, but they have copper clip on selector... So I added a small strip of solder to the copper plate by safety arm enough to fully raise safety arm & stop trigger being pulled Comparing the 2 selector plates on top of each other - the "arch" is basically cut about 1.5mm different place so the "tab" was never going to raise the safety properly miracle the fire semi/auto worked OK - guess the arch & COL area was within tolerance but it was safety that was real problem for compatibility So if you used the pre-modded semi only G&G ETU selector plate, the safety tab end might be different thus not raising the safety arm 101% use the KWA plate & mod the COL area like DMR stripped screw, larger screw or thread lock/spec of glue/epoxy to re-thread/bind it I ALWAYS or nearly always place the small threads - even the M3 gearbox bolts place them in, then turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE until you feel the screw rise up & "bump" THEN tighten up screw, as the screw has located & aligned itself 101% with thread Been modding consoles & other shit for ages and found if you just slap screws in you tend to re-cut the threads of the plastic cases if take them apart more than a couple of times so much so they weaken and soon strip The unscrew to locate, "bump" & tighten method really reduces the risk of cheap shitty threads stripping when I see people just chucking in gearbox screws & tightening straight away - with electric driver too I think rather you than me type of thing, coz I found the back & bump method to locate the thread really works to ensure the tiny screw/bolt properly finds the fine thread, than risk trying recut/widen it in my defence I took an OCD online test & scored 101%, I got 100% of course but I noticed the result page was off-centre - autistic screeching goes into overdrive (pretty sure there was a typo too but was yonks ago - it was page not aligned that really freaked me out) joking aside, we all have a bit of OCD & though we mock it at times... Michael J Fox in Scrubs played an amazing brief role as top doctor/surgeon Kevin Casey with OCD who was so good at everything he starts pissing everybody off I can relate to that - not being amazingly good, fuck no but pissing everybody off bit - yup that's my speciality (ask Mrs Duck) I'M NOT THAT BAD, only coz now I don't look quite so closely at things

Thought paypal "fees" were about 3.5% to 4% or was when I bought/sold a bit as said if you have the funds in your paypal account there is no fee to pay to send money etc... but if you are buying something on paypal on the plastic linked to account with no balance then yeah fees come into play... I usually offered to front the full 3.5% fee if buying - especially if I really wanted item at good price (fuck me - buy shit from GunFire, those bastids charge you for paypal, where TWG don't) obviously if money is tight, seller won't accept any "reasonable" offer (not insulting take the piss offer) then yeah bollox maybe keep the fucking gun, if we can't mediate a little And then there is people on both sides who think they can charge £20 for a 1st class stamp or feel a bulky item only costs a few quid fully insured to ship (it isn't always about the weight - but also size of parcel) postage could be between £10~£15 on AEG's depending on service/insurance/shipping options etc... All that being said - I fucking hate haggling with the "lookey lookey men" on holiday etc... I have a price in mind say €10 & when he says best price €20, when I know it is €5 on AliExpress I'm off down the road already - fuck off we are poles apart m8 & I ain't wasting my time haggling crap so no I can negotiate a little but fuck hard bargaining & haggling shit all day long... gender bollox - Monty Python was way ahead predicting all this in Life of Brian I wonder if they thought the funny weird shit back then 1979 (41 years ago) could one day risk becoming the new norm today - wtf ???

HEY none of that gender stereotyping here No longer MAN SIZE - so they are now called EXTRA LARGE to avoid offending extreme feminists, soy latte confused non binary types etc... https://metro.co.uk/2018/10/18/mansize-tissues-scrapped-by-kleenex-because-theyre-sexist-8050464/ (fucks sake, can even say to these weirdo's MAN UP coz that will offend them too)

How's that advanced SLE dooberry in ya gun.... http://kwa.com.hk/kwa_home/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Ronin_Motor_Current-1.jpg SWITCH LIFE EXTENDER (SLE) THE NEW GENERATION: AEG 2.5 Get more pew pew out of your new KWA AEG 2.5 with the new Switch Life Extender, included on all new gen AEGs. The SLE will extend the life of your trigger contacts by almost 500% by absorbing 99.9% of the back current/power surge that cause their shuttle contacts to burn out. Unlike other electrical aftermarket add-ons, the SLE doesn’t rely on complicated circuit boards or cause erratic trigger behavior. Combined with numerous internal upgrades like the adjustable fps, the new gen of KWA AEGs is the new standard Yeah - I think it is a basic flyback diode or RC snubber circuit (Resistor & Capacitor - hence RC snubber, nowt to do with RC toy cars) Bit like ICS was banging on about yonks ago to reduce arcing at trigger a 20p diode but call it KWA's new SLE system - still at least it works minor trade off: diodes nick a bit of juice - forward voltage drop to turn on so they tend to nick 0.5v~0.7v to turn on BUT with all the circuitry in them fancy mosfets with bells & whistles they too are nicking a bit of juice too... yup some diode or RC snubber bollox... good ol' Pheas, though snubber/flyback not anti shorting system FFS chaps it is a flyback diode most likely - not some fancy rocket science engineering (could be RC but I'd say a straight up diode) Adjustable fps - JG was using some crude but similar in their G36's & SIG's basically it is a metal spring guide - with a fine grub screw that pushed the outer sleeve of spring guide up probably about 5mm travel, almost 2 extra teeth compression, meaning about 30fps tweak-able wasn't a spring guide, though it did rotate slightly between two halves so allowed for "some" slight spring twist very crude but effective option to slightly tweak final spring power/fps If the JG box had a hole in the rear of it, at the two halves, then chances are it had a tweak-able spring guide in there On the G36 - good idea as box is enclosed at back when folding stock On the SIG - not bad, but as box is more exposed - wtf didn't you fit a QC box in there JG ??? (it is crying out all ready for it on the SIG - jeez) There was other companies that brought out tweak-able spring guides but probably didn't catch on due to a bit of fiddling/modding to get easy access to tweak the spring guide and like the SIG if you got really easy access then QC box would be better maybe (and I guess with a little mod the G36 could be opened slightly to allow a QC v3 box perhaps) Some clever stuff out there, some very fancy stuff & clever engineering driving things forward

I've had similar experiences with some Gunfire orders... On a good day you could order Sunday night & get delivery by Friday - if ya lucky from GF Though if no joy them Monday it would be @ 7 days One order took well over 10, maybe 12 days to arrive & All was in stock so fuck knows what the issue was from GF A recent order from TWG took exactly 7 days (Tues - Tuesday) Up to that point of the slow GF order I gave GF the slight edge But in the end 7 days to 10 is the norm depending on processing Remember that Poland & places just recently had increases in COVID-19 Though not a massive epidemic, they might have had new regs or people off isolating perhaps Or those lazy soda at GF that took their time on my order was working at TWG when you placed your order You should receive a despatch note & expect del in 3 days say But them lazy GF staff might be moonlighting at TWG So your order is stuck processing..... Hope it arrives soon sir, good job you aren't waiting to play I guess

cheers sir, but please chaps practice this on an old box/trigger It is NOT something I recommend EVERYBODY do on EVERY box !!! As stated it is for sad bastids with OCD etc... Trying to obtain imidiate tripping of COL asap etc... To reduce overspin on snappy non-AB guns Grab an old box, fuck about a bit with it learn to understand how the trigger, trolley COL etc... How it all REALLY works first, how it trips and resets How the trolley slips under/over the COL (it is a tiny bit more visible on a V3 imho) Don't waste too much time attempting a hairline trigger but gain a little understanding of it all in operation Then you will see how you can improve upon how it functions and fine tune it to operate smoothly & pop reliably asap If nothing else smooth the tab a little and grease the trolley/tab to at least assist in the trolley disengaging from trigger (A dry sharp tab will only wear base of trolley over time) Plus if you can somehow limit the pull slightly, (so the trigger isn't ramming the trolley fully home) which will also promote wear & leave less room to pop (especially on v2's at full max pull, not good ramming trolley to max) Sometimes when you change the COL, the new steel one may not reset/return fully coz it just catches on the trolley guide (Right at the tip of the "ramp" that it slips under to pop) So a slight file to eliminate any snagging etc... Even a minor smoothing to ensure the trolley slips under/over during its operation in both modes etc... (if required btw, but you decide all this once you got a better understanding of it all etc...) Other shit like ensuring selector plate has no burrs glides silky smooth back n forth to lift the COL etc... (could go on about checks to AK linkage system, But this post is quite sad & long enough as it is 😁) I'm sure there are many many weird saddo stuff we might do in our pursuit of improvement I won't list all them coz you will REALLY think I'm weird (well more weirder than you previously thought) Have a mess around with an old box... get a better understanding of it all and the whole area of trigger, COL, trolley, switch, selector etc will operate more smoothly & reliably with a smooth light pop etc..

Cheeky bastids 🤪🤪🤪 Anyway most of it all is about 95% repeating what I & others have already said It is all about little things we all try & use and we all do stuff slightly differently Learning what works/what doesn't for US in OUR GUNS Like the sorbo, AoE, PTFE, LiFe/LiPo/Niamh/Titan Lithium Ion What MOSFET & do you need one What is best gear/motor blah blah blah In the end we are trying make our shitty toy guns a little bit better (hopefully - but it doesn't always go to plan)

Well 3 teeth SS equates to a 10mm spacer inside the piston (almost) on spring power 3 x 3mm teeth = 9mm less stroke vs 10mm spring spacer, near enough same spring tension Take a hot 395fps gun, remove alloy spacer about 8.5mm (m3 bolt & nylon lock nut on a full/partmetal rack piston) No spacer & SS 3 teeth is like 6 teeth removed - each being "roughly" M05 or 16.4fps (6 x 16.4 = 98.4fps lost, from hot gun = 300fps now) improve seals & new/strectched piston o-ring on shitty hot cm.517 = 330fps final power pop in a snappy motor, mosfet if required and go nutz on the cheap but yeah wait until it breaks is good advice, just saying 1 tooth = 16.4fps or M05 and spacers can boost spring power if left a bit low afterwards (or if spring chopped too much & up shit creek for boosting power) NB: rough calculations but a pretty decent rule of thumb imho of what to expect when SS-ing