Sitting Duck

Gear ratio might depend if box is reinforced requiring mod for 13:1's like some King Arms, Cyma's even M904G (not all cyma v2's, the new QC Cyma v2's, the 7mm mp5's not reinforced) Not a biggy mod if required for 13:1's But something to consider when planning If box is strong enough - just drop DSG in & run a torque 28tpa with 150/160 spring option ??? Guess it depends what motor you end up getting Lonex A1 then maybe keep stock gears SHS or 25k or 22 TPA maybe 13:1's Old crappy 27 tpa motor, strip & chuck in neodym can & DSG ??? But like everything, where do ya start & where do ya stop I guess

Did you use the G&G "DMR" type selector plate or mod the KWA selector plate for semi only ??? If you used the G&G selector plate, the "arch" might be in a very very slightly different position hence in rare occasions a new/different selector plate can throw out the semi/auto setting & even the safety too... I had that once, think it was a Cyma selector I broke on my first CM.515 the replacement was lovely - except for safety not quite working what it was the slide by switch was a little different and it was only raising the safety arm halfway & not lining up with trigger safety lug, slipping just under it & allowing trigger pull So the new plate was cut different to Cyma, but they have copper clip on selector... So I added a small strip of solder to the copper plate by safety arm enough to fully raise safety arm & stop trigger being pulled Comparing the 2 selector plates on top of each other - the "arch" is basically cut about 1.5mm different place so the "tab" was never going to raise the safety properly miracle the fire semi/auto worked OK - guess the arch & COL area was within tolerance but it was safety that was real problem for compatibility So if you used the pre-modded semi only G&G ETU selector plate, the safety tab end might be different thus not raising the safety arm 101% use the KWA plate & mod the COL area like DMR stripped screw, larger screw or thread lock/spec of glue/epoxy to re-thread/bind it I ALWAYS or nearly always place the small threads - even the M3 gearbox bolts place them in, then turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE until you feel the screw rise up & "bump" THEN tighten up screw, as the screw has located & aligned itself 101% with thread Been modding consoles & other shit for ages and found if you just slap screws in you tend to re-cut the threads of the plastic cases if take them apart more than a couple of times so much so they weaken and soon strip The unscrew to locate, "bump" & tighten method really reduces the risk of cheap shitty threads stripping when I see people just chucking in gearbox screws & tightening straight away - with electric driver too I think rather you than me type of thing, coz I found the back & bump method to locate the thread really works to ensure the tiny screw/bolt properly finds the fine thread, than risk trying recut/widen it in my defence I took an OCD online test & scored 101%, I got 100% of course but I noticed the result page was off-centre - autistic screeching goes into overdrive (pretty sure there was a typo too but was yonks ago - it was page not aligned that really freaked me out) joking aside, we all have a bit of OCD & though we mock it at times... Michael J Fox in Scrubs played an amazing brief role as top doctor/surgeon Kevin Casey with OCD who was so good at everything he starts pissing everybody off I can relate to that - not being amazingly good, fuck no but pissing everybody off bit - yup that's my speciality (ask Mrs Duck) I'M NOT THAT BAD, only coz now I don't look quite so closely at things

Thought paypal "fees" were about 3.5% to 4% or was when I bought/sold a bit as said if you have the funds in your paypal account there is no fee to pay to send money etc... but if you are buying something on paypal on the plastic linked to account with no balance then yeah fees come into play... I usually offered to front the full 3.5% fee if buying - especially if I really wanted item at good price (fuck me - buy shit from GunFire, those bastids charge you for paypal, where TWG don't) obviously if money is tight, seller won't accept any "reasonable" offer (not insulting take the piss offer) then yeah bollox maybe keep the fucking gun, if we can't mediate a little And then there is people on both sides who think they can charge £20 for a 1st class stamp or feel a bulky item only costs a few quid fully insured to ship (it isn't always about the weight - but also size of parcel) postage could be between £10~£15 on AEG's depending on service/insurance/shipping options etc... All that being said - I fucking hate haggling with the "lookey lookey men" on holiday etc... I have a price in mind say €10 & when he says best price €20, when I know it is €5 on AliExpress I'm off down the road already - fuck off we are poles apart m8 & I ain't wasting my time haggling crap so no I can negotiate a little but fuck hard bargaining & haggling shit all day long... gender bollox - Monty Python was way ahead predicting all this in Life of Brian I wonder if they thought the funny weird shit back then 1979 (41 years ago) could one day risk becoming the new norm today - wtf ???

HEY none of that gender stereotyping here No longer MAN SIZE - so they are now called EXTRA LARGE to avoid offending extreme feminists, soy latte confused non binary types etc... https://metro.co.uk/2018/10/18/mansize-tissues-scrapped-by-kleenex-because-theyre-sexist-8050464/ (fucks sake, can even say to these weirdo's MAN UP coz that will offend them too)

How's that advanced SLE dooberry in ya gun.... http://kwa.com.hk/kwa_home/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Ronin_Motor_Current-1.jpg SWITCH LIFE EXTENDER (SLE) THE NEW GENERATION: AEG 2.5 Get more pew pew out of your new KWA AEG 2.5 with the new Switch Life Extender, included on all new gen AEGs. The SLE will extend the life of your trigger contacts by almost 500% by absorbing 99.9% of the back current/power surge that cause their shuttle contacts to burn out. Unlike other electrical aftermarket add-ons, the SLE doesn’t rely on complicated circuit boards or cause erratic trigger behavior. Combined with numerous internal upgrades like the adjustable fps, the new gen of KWA AEGs is the new standard Yeah - I think it is a basic flyback diode or RC snubber circuit (Resistor & Capacitor - hence RC snubber, nowt to do with RC toy cars) Bit like ICS was banging on about yonks ago to reduce arcing at trigger a 20p diode but call it KWA's new SLE system - still at least it works minor trade off: diodes nick a bit of juice - forward voltage drop to turn on so they tend to nick 0.5v~0.7v to turn on BUT with all the circuitry in them fancy mosfets with bells & whistles they too are nicking a bit of juice too... yup some diode or RC snubber bollox... good ol' Pheas, though snubber/flyback not anti shorting system FFS chaps it is a flyback diode most likely - not some fancy rocket science engineering (could be RC but I'd say a straight up diode) Adjustable fps - JG was using some crude but similar in their G36's & SIG's basically it is a metal spring guide - with a fine grub screw that pushed the outer sleeve of spring guide up probably about 5mm travel, almost 2 extra teeth compression, meaning about 30fps tweak-able wasn't a spring guide, though it did rotate slightly between two halves so allowed for "some" slight spring twist very crude but effective option to slightly tweak final spring power/fps If the JG box had a hole in the rear of it, at the two halves, then chances are it had a tweak-able spring guide in there On the G36 - good idea as box is enclosed at back when folding stock On the SIG - not bad, but as box is more exposed - wtf didn't you fit a QC box in there JG ??? (it is crying out all ready for it on the SIG - jeez) There was other companies that brought out tweak-able spring guides but probably didn't catch on due to a bit of fiddling/modding to get easy access to tweak the spring guide and like the SIG if you got really easy access then QC box would be better maybe (and I guess with a little mod the G36 could be opened slightly to allow a QC v3 box perhaps) Some clever stuff out there, some very fancy stuff & clever engineering driving things forward

Measure, find something near it or a smidge over (Often you can file a whisker off) Or look at one them flash bastid MAXX adjustable nozzles Though your nozzle could - COULD be 17mm... https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/43-longrange-aegs/58745-svd-nozzle-length.html#/topics/58745

It isn't cunning nor cheating... it is SNIDEY imho But if half a dozen players, not one is tracking you ADS and perhaps firing a few shots your way at range then allow you continue to close in without challenging you well ultimately they deserve it to some degree though do not be surprised if next round that player is still shot as he walks to respawn I'M DEAD, GOT MY HAND UP - I SAID DEAD MAN WALKING FSS Oh sorry m8, didn't see ya hand and I got these ear defenders on YEAH - you can see this shit getting out of hand if you're not careful But honestly, nobody tracked or challenged the guy ??? I know sometimes we drop the arm, but but tend to announce Dead Man Walking say every 30 secs

Feed problems - bet it is nozzle retraction or part of the issue Add delayer - but the CORRECT TYPE there is a smidge of extra material that just fits over the sector's tappet cam thus pulling the tappet back a whisker extra more other delay clips are just shit by comparison... if you only have a 5.5mm gap in front of the nozzle it will struggle to fee a 5.95mm BB (no matter how long the tappet/nozzle is held back for Some mags have a stronger spring and will attempt to force it through with enough force but won't last 7 maybe why it only feeds 10 BB's if you are lucky I've covered this before... But the tappet/nozzle window on V2's is 1mm smaller than on V3's so you really have to ensure the nozzle length is correct 21.38mm or a SHS Red should do @ 21.40mm if you use a delayer (or make your own with a sleeve over cam) SHS v2 tappets also retract a whisker more than most others But check for bottoming out on cylinder head in top half of box blah blah blah - said it loads of times you can even go nutz on a red cylinder head... see that ridge at the bottom, file it away (carefully after removing o-rings) then mark cylinder and file a whisker of the cylinder itself - say 5 o'clock to 7 o'clock clean up & reassemble... Now you have an extra 0.5mm to 0.75mm extra retraction space on tappet plate Again - check tappet plate bottoming out on cylinder head at full retraction you can gain nearly 1mm more nozzle retraction BUT pay attention as the sector rotates in top half of box as it goes to draw back the tappet fin just before it engages the fin you may feel some resistance... this is a large delayer or sleeve hitting the underside of tappet plate - JUST BEFORE it engages the fin It is a really tiny area of contact, so on the area just in front of the fin, you may need to lightly file away some material - not a lot a real fine shave an area right in front of fin to say 5mm in front, only needing to file off say 0.25m to 0.5mm in most cases All the checking should be done in the TOP HALF of the box the lower half just wobbles way too much so this checking of tappet retraction MUST be done in top half (which is handy coz all the wiring & shims & crap stays in lower half) so it is a pretty easy thing to check the sector delay tappet cylinder etc.. - all retracting as much as possible without it bottoming out on cylinder head or bumping underneath the tappet plate itself V2's are a wank, not all V2's need the tappet plate filed underneath, but if going nutz for max retraction then it is quite common if taking the piss on tappet retraction V3's seem to be more forgiving and retract more by default than v2's **** SLIGHT WARNING **** If you have a v2 and are REALLY taking the piss, filing cylinder head & cylinder massive sleeve to REALLY retract tappet, requiring the underside of tappet shaved ON A CONVENTIONAL TRIGGER/TROLLEY SWITCH - one thing to watch out for if taking the piss At FULL TRIGGER PULL, ramming the trolley home, the extra tappet retraction could damage the tiny nipple/lug on top of trolley where the trolley spring sits it is supposed to just miss by that groove in the tappet plate underside Sooooooo - if you are REALLY taking the piss on tappet retraction you need to extend that trolley channel or groove on the underside to avoid the trolley spring lug hitting the end of the groove and breaking that nipple clean off (painful), but I had it happen once & so the channel gets modded/extended to prevent this It is something that will only happen on CONVENTIONAL TRIGGER if TAKING THE PISS now on the ARP9 think that is ETU so no trolley to tear off so no need to worry about extending the trolley channel on the underside of tappet plate ANYWAY - TL-DR crap as per usual... you need to ensure the nozzle length is correct, maybe sand the front to help seal a smidge (doesn't help feeding at all) then try to go for max possible tappet retraction - the delay DURATION matters little if retraction is small/worn add delayer/sleeve, check for contact/wear/rubbing blah blah blah to the power of 10 etc... Hopefully you end up with an extra 0.5mm to 1mm extra retraction that will assist feeding even on the shittiest of mags at a moderate snappy rate if you still got feeding issues then the nozzle is too long, hop rubber bucking lips too tight or the mags are really fucked (no spring tension at all) But you would have the ability to deduce or work out the main cause by power of elimination But tappet retraction or nozzle space to feed a bb won't be an issue any more you look into some of this crap and I assure you, your gun will feed better on almost mag it is them poxy v2's, the tolerance on tappet window is quite fine, bit of wear on fin not a great amount of retraction to begin with and you get feed issues on some mags Some mags might just shift the hop unit slightly forward say 0.4mm and feed like a dream of course you could shove a thin o-ring or something in front of hop between box/hop pushing the hop forward and it should feed better - but gain a slight blowing at lips so fps drops a bit - but should feed better, shifting hop forward nearly half a mil mega TL-DR - just check tappet retraction in top half of box & look to improve with clip/sleeve etc...

think the MK23 suppressor is a bit more than a potential slight bump like 50fps which could take you over the limit at a site

iz fine coz it was a 2 tone (black/white) & waz an imitation firearm (wazn't a very realistic imitation firearm az ya can see)

***** SOLD ***** Gun 4 sale works (i fink) PM me

Congrats - I know you was after one, bit rare like hens teeth they are (especially the stubby ones) Not all of them come with the fixed stock ring... some do - quite a few don't, easy to grab a cheap plastic M4 stock ring and chop it up (can hack a metal stock ring up but a lot more work) but think you needed the back mostly for the opening door on ICS so no biggy, but you got the back you wanted and the option of stubby or full stock now (if I'm correct it was for the ICS M4 & don't need the fixed stock ring on ICS I think) Bolt lengths are a little different - shorter bolt on ICS coz of stock tube thingy than into spring guide so the full size fixed stock m5 bolt may be about 20mm to 1 inch or 25.4mm too long Guess you could shove the full stock with closed back on a M4/SR25 DMR setup if you wanted (or keep it as spare as it took so long to find something) But yeah fixed stocks, seemed to have fizzled out & a little tricky to source for a couple of years well done anyway

Well thanks for your 200% honesty on the shimming as said EVERYTHING went 101% perfectly I'd say Your team's tech is very pleased too at the results I'd expect 24rps would be a good build say 340fps on that spec (30k + 13:1 etc...) the extra 3.5rps could be 12:1's or if the slightly lower 325fps would equate to that much extra zest Yeah that Alpha wire is damn good stuff - max wire capacity available wrapped around a very very thin but tough insulation bit stiffer than usual wire but is 16awg in 18awg thickness so easy to install in tight spaces (maybe leave a review for the Alpha Wire as Pete took the plunge to stock it) Not only did you get expected good results - you got fucking AWESOME RESULTS Congrats to both you & your tech friend effectively doubling the rof & turning it into a sleeper gun or wolf in sheep's clothing 11 out of 10 - nope make that 12 out of 10

Just saying... Pete has had incorrectly labelled stuff in before

The more I keep thinking about this, the more I think you got 12:1's I mean you 16rps on the motor at first even if you got 18rps on std 18:1 gears when you fitted the 13:1's you gained over 50% rps ??? Even 12:1 @ say 12.75:1 compared to 18.65:1 = 46.25% and with the extra strain from gearing ratio expect a 40% max increase and on 13:1 over 18:1 expect say a 33% increase in rps than say 38% actual increase in rps Even so @ 18rps std gears a 40% increase from gearing = 18 x 1.4 =25.2 rps and even if you obtained the full ratio increase from 12:1 @ 46.25% equates to 18rps x 1.4625 = 26.325rps and you never quite get the full stamped/marked ratio or true actual ratio in real use coz the ratio slightly adds to the force of the drive chain hence 12:1 vs 18:1 never means 50%, not even true 46.25% but more like 40% (and 13:1 vs 18:1 = say 33% increase) so even a 12:1 set which it "could" be the rps would only go up by 40% or 1.40 and it seems you was about 17rps tops than 18rps Though I think with very thick wire and ultra lucky assembly you could have nudged near 19rps on 18:1 SHS HT but to get 27.5rps - you gotta have 12:1's than 13:1's imho unless the spring dropped in power and you got a much superior seal & transfer of power/bucking/nub etc.... (basically dropping the spring power say m10 & excellent seals, gaining fps, resulting in a couple more rps etc...) Or motor is say 35k not 30k but then you would have got more than 16rps initially I'd have thought I tend to lean it was a lucky fortunate build where EVERYTHING went 101% perfectly and perhaps gears were 12:1's instead of 13:1's I'm not try to take nothing away from ya though, it really is a FUCKING AWESOME BUILD sir, seriously 11 out of 10 sir on bushings too ffs but just trying to defend & justify where my Vulcan calculations may have differed from the final result or failing that Mr Spock would simply say...

Well to be fair... I said 16rps on std gears could be 16~18rps if deans & rewire etc... with SHS motor so wasn't far out I've done 2 x hot CM.517's with a G&G Blue (25k ferrite) 13:1 SS 3 teeth to get 19.5rps @ 335fps & I think many have done a SHS HT with 13:1, maybe a bit of SS to get a 24rps 340fps so how the heck you got 27.5rps at around 325fps (1 joule mark aprox on 0.20's) is amazing no I'll rephrase that... FUCKING AMAZING The shimming must be more perfect that Roger's (Shut Up Gears) The amp draw must be low like 13 amps or less Basically everything must be THAT close to perfection - you got ultra lucky fortunate in how it all went Everything must have meshed perfectly & I mean fucking perfectly... The pinion to bevel 101% bang on, plus rest of gears bang on, the box all smooth inside, no burrs The motor angle in grip in precise alignment, the motor tab connectors as tight as fuck - near soldered on What wire did you use - Alpha Eco or something or fucking wire for an electric shower or meter tails I know Alpha 16awg is good & thin/stiff as fuck thin but tough insulation wall - but jeeeez to squeeze out what is probably 101% potential efficiency out of a build is very fortunate indeed (just shows how much std wire can choke a gun's performance) and you are are still on solid bushings, not even cross bushings filled with grease let alone bearings or ceramics - so to get 27.5rps is mental I mean you could have got mis-labelled 12:1's is about the only thing I can think of to push the rof beyond a 24~25rps best expectation of 13:1 build on 7.4v and the battery is perhaps better than 20c rating to supply that much energy too The results obtained are way beyond a GOOD BUILD - 24rps would have been expected at say 340fps maybe 25/26 tops on 325fps - but that is going some on a SS build if you got 27.5rps, on a full stroke with a modest 7.4v 20c LiPo, even 8.4v max fresh off of charge well fuck me backwards... YOU WALK ON WATER SIR is all I can add and ffs LEAVE IT ALONE I would NOT OPEN IT just to cut spring or SS to bring down the power, park it overnight instead as it likely is pre-cocking from over spin, so I'd just leave it parked to fade or bed in the spring a smidge (might get even a smidge more rps once it fades, but time the motor gets some carbon build up it will cancel out) nah leave it alone, not saying you got "lucky" but certainly you was very fortunate it went together so damn well Deffo walk on water on this build if/when you do open it up again - though as said leave it alone for now ffs but if it goes tits up and you need to crack her open... test if the gears are 13:1 or 12:1's perhaps mark bevel with pencil line, see how many turns of bevel it takes to fully rotate sector 1 revolution (multiply bevel turns by 3 = actual ratio of gear set) if 4.25 or less = 12.75:1 or 12:1 gear set if 4.50 there abouts = 13.5:1 or 13:1 gear set it's probably 13:1 and you got very lucky fortunate, but just wondering if Pete got some mis-labelled 12:1's (like it does happen at times with the Chinese lottery etc...) FUCKING VERY VERY VERY VERY WELL DONE SQUIRE indeeeeeeeed

it "sounds" like it "could" be the grip pulling the motor/box out of whack bit like some M4 pistol grips being too large - works with box+grip testing but when you fit them into receiver the larger grip hits the receiver 1mm or 2mm so a gap appears between box & grip, when tightened it starts fighting/pulling it out of whack sorta this crap... https://youtu.be/WSV8vn9veXs and seen Luke (I think) add shims between grip & box to take pad out the area so grip just mates with box without hitting the receiver so hard that it pulls shit out of whack when tightened... (not as proper fix I'll add but when he was getting screechy shit issues on say troublesome VFC's for example and just trying to diagnose or try to diagnose where it all goes out of whack) Now in your case the top of the AK grip(s) have lugs to locate into receiver so filing stuff down would be a PITA working around those lugs etc... and no real need to perhaps... You could try to plop in say m4 washer - 4mm ID & say 6~8mm OD between grip & motor cage to take up any potential slack, so grip isn't being forced into receiver so much it knocks out the alignment This washer could be 1mm or 1.5mm thick of metal or maybe rubber heck an old THIN cylinder head pad could be worth a try, might need trimming down at edges probably 1mm thick should do it, pad out the space between inside of grip & bottom of motor cage Tighten up and should/could do the trick - worth a go I reckon Also check motor cage is not loose, sometimes they don't fit perfectly and others there is a bit of potential play, even wobble when tightened and despite the cage snug & angle correct, the wonky/gappy grip can try to pull the cage a bit out of sync So a bit of a rubber washer might take up the slack between grip/cage so it can tighten without it going squiffy

Well if/when you strip it down for mosfet, check/smooth out any burrs inside according to Luke/Neg Airsoft if you got the std spring guide (non bearing) instead of bearing one... https://gunfire.com/en/products/qd-spring-slide-for-ar15-specna-arms-edge-tm-replicas-1152224920.html then if you got any spare bearing & races from bearing piston heads... soak the fucker in hot water, after a while, slide a decent knife or thin screwdriver down between and push off the blue sleeve fit the race-bearing-race, some bearings/race can be a tight fit & others are just perfect tap the blue sleeve back on - viola bearing spring guide from some old bits from your spares box other than that, looks pretty decent inside, especially if you got metal rack piston too... 13:1's could go straight in (not re-enforced at back restricting the faster gears install) metal rack would be a touch if you want to SS Gotta admit, though the carbine handguard is maybe not my first choice for the money you get quite a good bang for your bucks with decent internals (after a deburr & regrease) plus quick change spring (bearing spring guide from your spares box) and for under £100 even... https://www.onlyairsoft.com/product/specna-arms-rra-sa-e18-edge-carbine-replica-chaos-grey/

Well you don't want 11.1v AND SHS 13:1 - just 11.1v as a cheap stop gap you don't HAVE TO install the mosfet right away either on a std motor (with tabs) you could just install a sb160 schotky diode across the cheap std motor with tabs to reduce arcing for a while... NB - DO NOT WRAP ONE AROUND A SHS, G&G MOTOR as the two screws connect/short through the mounting plate under end bell 101% of the time (but are insulated with plastic washers/sometime plastic screws etc... so just stopped from a short) YOU PLACE A DIODE IN A SHS TYPE MOTOR YOU CAN SHORT THE TWO TERMINALS (in a cheap std "2 tab" motor the poles never contacts the same section at same time) What they do - stop the spikes from motor/inductive load... loads of stuff out there but a before/after... https://youtu.be/F3IsdlBVwSI?t=260 & go to say 5:10 to see nearly no spark with diode https://youtu.be/F3IsdlBVwSI?t=310 (that spark is same arcing at trolley/switch in gun) So ICS know their stuff for reducing arcing - though wtf didn't they do this by default ??? However only for cheap 2 tab motors, even G&G cheapo 18k motors shouldn't have this fitted (coz shorting at the lock ring under end bell with added diode on SHS/G&G type motors) What this translates to - you can drop a diode in, run on 11.1v on shit motor and reduce the arcing thus not needing to install a mosfet straight away, to run on higher juice to squeeze out more zest NB does NOT eliminate arcing at switch like mosfet, but seriously reduce arcing from spikes for say 20p (on cheapo 2 tab motors) to run on higher juice perfect for cheapo £100 gun, you want to add a bit more zest with least fucking about out of the box (later on when it busts, needs a tweak then open & do the upgrades/mosfet etc...)

charging wise I'll agree AEG build wise, some bespoke micro switch gearbox stuff not thought through in other areas some stuff is OK & this where stickers/branding gets costly as usually it's just oem SHS/RA with a Nuprol sticker costing an extra £10 or so Are conspiracy theorists completely mad or just ahead of the curve...

I have trained to also use my toes so now have 20 pinkies to type with Chernobyl was caused by a Faulty Nuprol Lipo according to Alex Jones

pretty much same ol' same ol' from me I guess would have thought most would know the gist by now SHS HT will fit the bill in many 7.4v cases on 18:1 or 13:1 depending on what you are aiming for or just push 11.1v on lame stock motors - eg: AK with a large battery space stock like 28a or M4 with spacious fixed stock £30 for new motor is a fair bit of an investment but worth it in numerous cases though at the same time, you can get similar results (11.1v) for little outlay if possible just weigh up the options and take a calculated stab at it and do it the best you can yes should have said SHS HT (without the maths & faff) but just showing my workings out to explain my reasoning I know I waffle but try to simplify it jeez some of them calculations on gear ratios & relation to motor speeds & final rps is like a friggin' Oxford Maths paper at times, when in many cases all that geek shit is way OTT gear ratio = bevel gear rotations to complete cycle x 3 motor rpm / gear ratio (x10) = rough ball park figure of expected rps on 7.4v (x1.55 for expected rps on 11.1v) no calculator or pen/paper required though my fingers hurt at times & I go through keyboards every couple of months

If you are on std gears then likely the usual SHS HT motor from Pete roughly a 28~30k motor, decent build & bang for buck etc... 30,000 / 18.65 = 1.6 (x10 = expected rps) maybe add on 15% for deans/fet & 320fps looking at 18rps aprox doubt if you would hit 20rps unless it was a faster motor of say 33~35k & ultra thick wire & bit of luck If you was using 13:1 gears then a 25k motor will do you for 18rps possible a 22tpa motor & 13:1 gears, issue is the tpa & rpm figures of motors are like airsoft meters (them labels vary shitloads & so called ratings a very rough ballpark figure) The green RA motor I found to be slightly slightly slower than an old original SHS HT say Green RA was like 28k & SHS was 30k but could be due to just sod's law in batch/spec (slightly thinner/thicker wire in windings, efficiency in shimming of motor, magnet strength etc..) hence the SHS/RA is imho a 28k~30k motor on std gears pulling about 11~12 amp draw say for 16~18rps 7.4v this is give or take a round or two coz no two builds are the exact same & all that plus lipo burst/capacity & fuck knows what else will give slightly different results you could SS too on that barrel even but won't change much, just a slight bit of semi snap maybe though SS & m110 should lower any slight overspin, so not need AB at 18rps The old where you start & where do you stop I guess If it has a basic mosfet or the ASR version I'd probably just drop the SHS HT in for 7.4v (or just use a compact 11.1v on lame std motor for 20rps) if it had to be opened (breaks/low compression/performance) I might SS 2 or 3 teeth at some point The SHS HT is more of a balanced motor at 16tpa - ish & ish being the word the ZCI HT is more worthy of the HT name at 22tpa you just don't want a high speed motor, so a SHS HT or there abouts should do you

Mrs Duck chatting to her friend...