Sitting Duck

Nope - could always ring them and see if they can exchange or part ex it say you really thought your gun was fully lipo ready and ordered it in good faith but it busted my gun..... they may then consider swapping it for one of their 7.4v's rather than no way it has been used/charged so warranty void etc..... worth a shot failing that keep it or ebay it try n see which of their 7.4v's would fit/work with best C & mah ratings in your gun's battery compartment (or other gun's battery compartment) then give them a bell - can only ask I fit them stubby stocks on my M4's as it means I can then shove in almost any block type batteries These block batteries are cheaper than the more bespoke "airsoft" nunchuck/stick type batteries plus have a massive choice of size/shape/ratings to choose from as well as less fiddling about changing them at lunchtime if you try out a 7.4v and are happy with results then run with 7.4v if/when nimah's start to get old or sell on the nimah's anyway if you are happy with 7.4v's then there would be no real need to go nutz short stroking on that gun if she is ok (if it ain't broke don't try to fix or tweak it is the motto we all should remember) But if you end up keeping the 11.1v then maybe your next gun upgrade can use that and look into short stroking another tweaked gun the results would be a massive difference eg: old gun you broke hitting 27rps on 7.4v next gun leave in stock gears but 11.1v & neodym motor = 30rps say or 40 if you do 12:1 but doing 40rps means paying for new set of gears, new piston with 3 or half teeth plus more modding all to go from 30 to 40 and pretty sure possible shorten the life span a little at that high 30 to 40 speed (that is dsg performance and those dsg boxes don't last as long as decent stock boxes no matter how much you spend on building it)

check your mags can feed at silly speeds - remember faster rof = shorter life (usually) trigger response & rof "kind of" go hand in hand though YES THEY ARE DIFFERENT - before anybody flames me but they are "kind of linked" in the way a 40rps gun will fire/respond much quicker than a 20rps Good decent lipo's piss all over the old skool - them nimah's don't have the ooomph that decent higher burst lipo's have when you pull the trigger mental techy's go for 40-60c+ lipo's but for a tweaked gun you should aim for 25c min, pref 30c should be fine for most a good lipo - check the burst or C rating will ensure she is supplied with enough juice off the trigger and if your wire is upgraded it will keep chucking juice to that greedy motor and run much better than 8.4v - honest I have bought some 11.1v's and also some 9.9v LiFe's too but if I tweak the gun properly I can't see me using the higher batteries that much when good 7.4v's provide great results, plus can get the 7.4v's cheaper and coz they aren't so fat as 11.1v's I can get higher burst/amp batteries in same space/price range as 11.1v batteries your gun is fluctuating a bit though 330 - 370 maybe 38 - you mean 380 - that is quite a bit check all seals - especially piston's o-ring & cylinder head is mega good 370 or 380 - yeah that ain't no m100 in there

Go with two teeth first as all gun builds are different, if you really really want to short stroke if you are just a tad tad over say up to 360/365 then you "could" leave her cocked over weekend to lose a bit of tension then you "may" get to 350 after she lost some spring tension perhaps to remove 3 may be a tiny bit too much and you can't put teeth back on also each spring and deffo each gun is different - shs m120's may be more like a m125 brand new out of box I also think unless you are sure your G&G spring may not quite be hitting 350 especially if it was still old stock G&G spring (usually they hit 330 out of box and drop a little more after a while) to remove 3 teeth you gotta get a half steel/plastic one - and you know not to get a full metal tooth piston I gotta ask this though: How friggin' fast do you want to shoot ??? Are your mags gonna feed ok at near 40rps ??? plus there comes a point when you won't notice such an increase eg: 15 to 20rps - deffo notice but 35 to 40rps not really easy to notice the difference me personally get a 3 metal piston and get gun working on nimah's see if you can try out a 30c 7.4v for a while - maybe that would be safer nearer 30 than mental 40 with all the work and possible mag feed issues, plus if you stay sensible then you can just pop in new piston and get going again without all the extra work for higher speed Higher speed builds - especially the more crazy stuff will require lighter pistons and plastic pom piston heads lose piston bearing & swiss cheese (in moderation) - this all reduces weight to help piston return quickly me I avoid piston bearings - they can come undone but also that is about 3.5gms saved by dropping bearings use a bearing spring guide instead to avoid spring twist - same as piston bearing but means piston is lighter avoid heavier alluminium piston heads in very high speed builds as they can weigh 6 or 7gms on the double O-ring kind a full complete piston can weigh 15gms to 30gms on full metal piston with bearings & double O-ring piston head, all that extra weigh gained/lost can make quite a difference to how quick the piston returns so unless you want to do more homework and all that - I'd try a 7.4v 30c battery first perhaps And if you are sailing that close to wind or PE you do NOT want a full metal piston half/half would be max - especially as we both are still learning you must have a weak point in your box - the plastic pick up & first few teeth at least if she PE's you do minor damage usually just to piston full metal & PE = MEGA BAAAAAANNNNNNNGGGGGGGGG yes higher speed builds can/do use metal for strength and long life piston but they have well n truely short stroked or using only half the teeth like 8 steel teeth on DSG's - but they know what they are doing Us noobs learning by our mistakes or rather breaks are not so talented and clever techy mofo's so best play safe I know I do talk bollox most of the time but trust me I have learnt a bit lately by making many mistakes too especially when taking the piss a bit

Good cheap brands is what does work really well Lots of crappy cheap brands out there if you make an unwise decision

If you was local I'd lend you mine m8 when ya ready to do final test TBH - that setup you got/had will give out aprox 27rps on a decent 7.4v lipo (not just from maths but Sp00n did the very same setup with 13:1 fet/deans etc... on 7.4v) if anything I know it sounds bollox but very few instances would absolutely demand 11.1v you could hit 30+ on 12:1 with thick wire/deans/fet and also extra solder on motor connectors at the "elbow" Then with that there would be very very little resistance in the wiring so max juice is ensured to motor best fet install is to do the wiring in one wire from motor to battery deans on positive then only time negative breaks is at fet, fet signal supply spliced from positive so the wire loom is as full & unbroken/least connectors as possible I feel if you got a good say 30c 7.4v 3000mah battery you would of still got an improved rof without shreading piston you went from say 18:1 stock gears of 20rps with fet/motor to 27 on 13:1 though on old skool nimah you may not of hit this and got only 23 (nimah's don't have the same burst or C or oooomph that lipo's can have) then the extra cell took the 27 you would of got on say a 25c 7.4v lipo to 50% more = 40rps = bang !!!!!!!! Also what we all need to remember is that your box will have a probable life - just like car eg: 100,000 miles or shots - this is just a rough figure but lets say 100k by firing at 40rps and driving a car at max speed screaming through the gears you will hit that xxx figure much quicker Well in actual fact your gun/car may only reach 60 or 70k if you take the piss It is most likely not a super duper cnc reinforced box so it ain't designed to be pushed that far for too long anyway especially as a starter box shoots at say 15rps - you start to get the idea now that going too fast may not be wise in long run get gun working again with another piston (plastic 1 metal or 3 metal max) go to your site - chrono and shoot away at lunch as a m8 if they got a good 7.4v lipo on deans etc....... can I just borrow that 25c/30c 7.4v a sec please...... pop that in your gun and I'm pretty sure you will see/hear a slight increase in response/performance over the nimah if happy and she don't break - then perhaps get a good juicy 30c 7.4v instead of 11.1v your gun will love you for it and should be a nice long loving relationship with less chances of breakdowns

No real other way I'm afraid for higher speeds I have found out the hard way like you what happens Is why I say 25 to 30 unless you do your homework Any battery can be pushing 1 or 1.5v fresh off charge Your spring will lose tension also in 6 months So if you get away today you may not scrape by in 6 months and a fresh battery can just PE anything over 30 is close IMHO And it "may" need a bit of work 35+ is deffo taking the piss US forums can say yeah use 120 spring But is too hot for UK sites Soz

Do 1 tooth removal first on m120 You can always remove another if she is way over Think m110 and 1 tooth might still be asking for PE

Buy 3 steel piston remove last 2 teeth so you got only 1 steel left Then remove the FIRST 2 teeth from sector gear NOT LAST 2 or you mess tappet timing Fit m120 spring, might be m115 but try 120 first

1,000,000 shots on semi no problem Or 50 shots on full auto = BANG it ain't one single shot it is piston not returning in time for shot 2 3 4 5 etc on auto Can happen on semi if she double fires but still not as quick as full speed auto Be grateful you had plastic piston, all steel teeth piston could have a much bigger BBBBAAAAAAANNNNNGGG and gears even motor pinion could have gone bust

Update saw high speed gears So hitting 27 on 7.4 then near 40 ???? On 11.1v Yeah that is fully taking the piss To run that quick you gotta short stroke 2 teeth n use m120

Yes Looks like deffo PE to me My guess you hit 23 on 7.4 and then near 35 Piston didn't fully return and stripped 5 4 3 gears Or pistons are n pitch was not good was a few bad batches of SHS pistons a while back but my main guess is too fast & PE happened

late forties - feels like late sixties sometimes

nice pistol - lol very very nice one yeah I suppose the "other" gun is alright as a starter gun

To increase rof you do not need to do too much but if you want to go faster then you will need to do more than just the odd tweak decide on what you rof is atm and where aprox you wish to be personally the range of 20 to 30 I feel is plenty for us UK lot, be careful if you start to go above 30 even above 25 if you have heavy piston and shooting under 300 at present - this is where Pre Engagement may arise (piston not return fully under speed and gears engage too soon and bang !!!) plastic piston will lose 1 or 2 teeth as plastic shreds easily - no biggy full metal tooth piston - oooh that won't be good coz there ain't no weak point and you could smash up quite a bit in there A stronger spring and lighter piston will return quicker and help to avoid PE problem is m110 will put you over the normal UK limit of 350 so to bring fps down you reduce the stroke by Short Stroking 16 teeth gets reduced on piston & sector gear to 15 say and you arrive back at say 345ish However - for first time tweakers aim for milder speedy rof of say 25 max....... one of the best tutorials so far: http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/ Now remember that USA can use higher fps so they can chuck in m110's even m120's as is but we can't unless we short stroke or cut coils off spring - bit noobish as cutting coils properly needs a bit of care - easier to fit a new proper full spring for a fiver Hence don't always asume that just coz they say use this n that your gun will still be ok to use on UK sites Here is a good comparison of different motors: (soz it ain't in english but you get the idea of motors on test) Not a massive difference but SHS & Big Dragon perform very well for motors under £30 The motors you seek if you buy one are neodym ones that are way better/stronger/faster than most stock/ferrite ones rewire the box - coz stock wire on lame tamiya is holding you back - especially tamiya, so replace with deans Angle Of Engagement must be done (rubber washers/spacers) - unless you want to rip off the big first tooth (pick up tooth off your piston) check seals - o-ring on piston head and cylinder head is sealing perfectly or as good as possible, even ptfe tape on cylinder head fit a nozzle with o-ring if you don't have one on there - about a fiver max. rewire the box with thicker wire 16awg or the thickest you can fit in there - silver wire is good and not as thick as 16awh silicone wire fit a mosfet - don't have to go nuts a £10 basic non Active Braking will be fine - you can change fet later for a bells n whistle burst programme one if you desire check box shimming and re-grease fit new say m100 or m105 spring - box is done really You don't have to buy a high speed gear set straight away - honest but depends how fast you wanna go Now the box redone and wire/fet/deans fitted - you should see around 15% increase - still on old motor/gears/battery Next option is you could use higher voltage or burst LiPo but you could stay on 7.4v and still get good results.... Then fit a neodym motor - then you really see your rof increase - your wiring is no longer gonna hold you back you could expect to increase by up to 50% from old stock motor - yes I kid you not....... eg: stock setup hits 12 rps, rewire deans fet etc... will go up 15%+ so you get close to 14 on stock 18:1 gears then replace ferrite motor with say SHS neodym - 50% and you hit 21rps on a decent 7.4v on stock gears 20+ on 7.4v lipo is a big improvement - you want more use 11.1v lipo and the third cell is another 50% increase or fir mental 12:1 gears and you got 50% over 18:1 stock gears BUT - 30+ and you can get PE = BANG, so like I said be careful or you will need to do more work to avoid this on stock m100 springs Motor, fet, rewire, seals/grease looking at about £50 to get 20+ on a 7.4v with scope for plenty more if you so wish still an improvement over stock and not too fast to hit PE plus a thing to remember....... The faster your gun fires then very likely it will wear/break quicker - so another reason to not go really mental too you should not need a delay clip on sector if your mags are decent and feed well you can hit 20 - up to near 24rps on stock gears & neodym motor on 7.4v (so you "could/should hit" 30 to 36 on 11.1v but watch out) ANYWAY - have a read up on that link and watch video perhaps go easy on your first tweak and take your time will bring quite good results I reckon

I'm trying to cut down on smoking & saying G&G's - both are very hard for me Raider or CM18 for rails - polymer but good polymer guns or GC16 30th is metal but less rail space but all the same unless you are gonna bolt on kitchen sink attatchments

£200 full metal M4 with rails & battery could be a bit tight unless you buy s/hand or could import if ukara'd cheaper metal guns are not always better than decent polymer ones GC16 30th is good buy but not full rails - though suspect it would do most people's attachments tbh

a hire gun would be more effective than using a torch - soz couldn't resist don't go too nutz on buying up a mofo torch if you not got your own gun just yet a cheapo torch just to find ya way from from some dark basement could be wise but if ya want dark - pah go to epsom tunnels and see what dark is really all about (ya mum told you to eat ya carrots and she was right)

I'm liking this new member already reduces my crappy spam count and saves my fingers wearing out typing the same old same old I'm still a newbie learning all the time from them really clever mofo's out there welcome aboard

have you given them a ring - contact us at bottom of main page shows 2 x fone numbers ???

That is a peq battery and is designed to fit in one - but a good price deffo get a couple like many have said carbine don't have much rail space as front wired in handguard though you could have a low height box on top but you got the full M4 handle on there possible options - check out componentshop or hobbyking for batteries to fit in your current gun or consider other options like rear wired/fet and a stubby stock to fit in much bigger block batteries (this is a bit more involved though but worth considering if wiring in a fet at some point)

Blimey - ya didn't have to quote everything - lol aaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh yes I see your dilemma...... best thing I can suggest is contact airsoftworld and have a chat, they have a bloke there that does the 2-toning and he is very creative to say the least - they do some "wasteland" style schemes, not cheap but shows there are options perhaps certainly better than say some other 2-tone styles out there: http://airsoftzone.co.uk/airsoft-guns/two-tone some of the guns in the above link are feckin' hideous to say the least yes the cm18 could be pig ugly if 2-toned over the sexy 2-tone it comes in, maybe they could blue up some of the tan bits leave black receiver and just paint some of the easier to get to bits so to speak - grip, sights, crane stock etc..... Have a chat with them - if you are paying for a 2-tone service on top of the gun then its only natural you would wanna check & discuss it The Kong II is worth getting at that discounted rate, I admit I haven't fitted and played with mine all wired properly in but it is supposed to be a proper fet that performs well once wired into trigger the "avacado" ones are not proper fets they are just a plug in burst wizrad that do work ok but a bit hitn miss on some guns/batteries The Kong can be used in plug/play mode for time being but it is designed to be properly wired into triger contacts as a fet to really unlock it fully For a discounted price of a tenner I also said yes please as any basic fet would cost you £10+ Once a gun is fet'd externally (outside the gearbox), then the main work is done and mosfets can changed very easily or quickly once the trigger is wired up to a fet and the motor wires run in new wire - that is the main bit of installing a fet yeah email or give them a quick ring and speak to them about 2-tone options - can't hurt, and sure you both can sort out something A raider is maybe a good cheaper option for getting rails and short one would be ideal for cqb too 2-tone can be "altered" or assisted in general "wear" quite easily unless some paint is accidently spilt on it The GC16 has a nice long run of rails on top and a bit of rail space option on handguard to mount grip it is also quite sturdy unlike some other hanguards which is very loose & wobbly - snakeskin looks nice I will admit all the CM's are just tarted up carbines - just with slightly different externals/barrels - all good sturdy internals inside

I "think" the BOT is still polymer/abs and about £170-ish so when you compare that to a £150 metal GC16 - you are paying more for plastic receiver & a so-so mosfet at best The CM18 is a sexy looking gun and perhaps is one of my favourites said before shame they didn't do a 30th CM18 or Raider instead of the 26 30th edition (GC16 (front wired) classic style handguard so to speak is great but should of done a Raider/CM18 (rear wired) with RIS/rails) I'd have paid a bit more for a metal Raider/CM18 Raiders are great starters @ £123 I do think the long is perhaps too long @ 357 and the short is uuhhmm perhaps a tiny bit too short @ 233 and I love the 275 GC16 & CM18 as I feel they are perfect all rounders imho FireHawk's are great headturners - dinky mofo's that you will always get comments - usually: "F*ck me that's loud" I will admit it can get on your nerves and also your team mates too all day long - especially in echo places like cqb tunnels etc.... But wtf - at least ya team will know if you are still in game defending/attacking on other side I do not get commision for G&G and I don't think the sun shines out of their ar$e either I totally slate the new DSG FireHawk out of the box, and even with tweaks I'm unsure as to if she will really last long term I strongly urge anybody to think seriously about getting a DSG FireHawk - they are that bad and no semi and pi$$poor DSG performance amongst poor crafstmanship in the build etc........ Normal FireHawk's are worth considering, they are a good gun - with semi and if you wanted to you can make them quite quick without needing a DSG build - you could hit 20+ on 7.4v, even higher if you used higher speed 12 13 or 14:1 gears plus a rewire fet & a stronger neodym motor but go easy as you approach 30rps to avoid damage to piston/box The BOT I seriously doubt if I will buy, nor the other CQB gun they do - that retails at about £165 - £170 The DSG FH was over the £150 mark I set for a CM (Airsoftworld do CM18 @ £150 others do it for £155) So taking into account the poor HC05 DSG plus the track record of G&G fet's and over the £150 limit - nah I don't think so Once you go over that £150-£170 and if ukara'd etc.... you can start to get some nice metal guns eg: BI-8001 - now this needs a tweak here n there but is nice possible next step up gun This is just one example but is one I have recently treated myself to though is still to be tweaked properly I doubt if I would buy a higher end G&G TopTech gun at this moment in time - but that might change perhaps On the other hand I am not sure about some of their new stuff coming out with super duper electrics (more stuff to go wrong and not G&G's strong point in the past perhaps) The split gearbox - well has been out a while in ICS especially new bb loading system - hmmm kinda means these newer guns may have special bespoke parts rather than TM compatible parts I'm old school - love the mechanics of the box and its workings etc..... That all said my own feelings is get a G&G starter you like and just use it out of the box for a while...... After say 6-12 months you may notice the performance has dropped a little perfectly normal as springs lose tension seals wear etc..... THEN consider having her serviced/tweaked by somebody or ONLY if you feel confident and can set aside time should you consider doing it yourself - though if you have some common sense you should be fine first time is always the worst - but they are very nice guns to work on so I can say they are not as bad as my first few guns Read up as always - ask loads, take pictures & above time and you should be fine a little service tweak at first - correct AOE seals/nozzle maybe new m100 spring then later maybe you can look to upgrade her if you so wish (motor faster gears fet etc....) keep it sensible - I really do think a gun firing between 20-30 is enough for most peeps in UK The faster they fire the shorter it will last - in general terms, also the CM is not a CNC gearbox - so don't go real nutz you could replace the small tamiya on there with a deans connector asap - but keep battery to 7.4v lipo (do not go for 11.1v lipo without a fet - in fact if you do the upgrades later on you probably won't really need a 11.1v)

Google up who makes Echo1 guns and how they are made, assembled, rebranded or slung together in USA. Me personally I don't quite think the starter JG guns have better boxes than G&G CM's. CM boxes have had 8mm solid bushing/bearings and radius boxes for over 18 months.... Yes maybe early boxes may have failed more in the past. But up until recently JG boxes were 7mm plastic bushings and not radius boxes. But just recently they have started use solid bushings and I am quite sure they have started to radius the boxes at front too. But make up your own minds if G&G are any good or not for what it is worth if you wish to go down the p90 route..... if you seek to obtain a cheap additional boneyard/spares-repair one to upgrade to 400+ fps then "maybe" you could see if a ukara'd m8 (or yourself once you have skirmished) would purchase one of these: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/ksp-90tr-acm?from=listing&campaign-id=19 http://www.taiwangun.com/en/ksp-90trk-acm?from=listing&campaign-id=19 http://www.taiwangun.com/en/ksp-90tr-sd-acm?from=listing&campaign-id=19 I do not know what these are like - but at under say £90 they might be worth considering if p90 is a must have Blimey those cheap p90's all under £90 sold out straight away - all 3 types in stock this morning (think I'd best stop posting all them good offers I find - none left for me - jeez)

Think they only break if you are american...... Mainly coz G&G send all the faulty guns stateside - they both hate each other Seriously - it seems "some" US techy's hate G&G big time favouring more of their own stuff or I think JG and some others who may produce or help to produce the Echo1 guns over there Perhaps even more G&G hate has emerged as G&G copied seigtek Dual Sector Gear design (Many techy's hate the cheaper SHS & Modify copies already as it was a US idea/concept and Riot/Seigtek is far superior) customer wise - even american owners seem to be very pleased with them if you look on US retailer sites reviews ALL GUNS CAN FAIL - They will very likely fail quicker as they are made to fire faster and more powerfully Perhaps taking a CM starter box to nearly 35-40rps with 400fps will be pushing it too far - it is not a high end box reinforced etc.... But it is not a bad box by no means - it is a good decent box all the same in a good starter gun. Me personally think I only need a gun to shoot 20-30rps @ 349.99999999fps - that is plenty for our UK sites then that will do and try to make it use that properly by improving its accuracy...... I like them and some others do - yes the CM's are not ultra high end - they are not supposed to be at that price They sell so many of them each year after year - they are not absolute piles of junk that some haters say they are No G&G are not perfect - some of their higher end stuff has had problems and some of their new stuff emerging I may not be impressed with but think G&G starter guns - (forget mosfet or dsg Mr G&G) - their starter guns are a good beginners platform to get started with.

No it's the players that work better in the UK - ooh meeeeoooooowwwwww just kidding to any o/seas players the other bit was just a lot more guides/parts/tutorials on opening up the v2 or v3 gearbox's (though as far as guides go - you only need one good comprehensive guide and common sense) as long as you take your time take pics etc... I'm sure you will be fine