Sitting Duck

Yeah great f*cking gears in there - looks like sector's boned happened twice to me now - the other 2 gears are quite possible ok my ak12 was the second time a SRC sector failed - again sector teeth are so narrow a bit of stress and it just shifts and crosses CRRRUUUNNNNNCCCHHHH either a new aeg set - or pm me and I will send a shs sector gear same as I replaced in ak12 and or a pulled 18:1 set seriously - pm me an addy tonight & I will try n pop some stuff in post to ya

I have an itchy vagina I will admit GunFire and TWG were free shipping for about 75 Euro orders up to last summer Always love free shipping - I'm a tight ar$e with a bit of thrush I guess..... peeps hate changes to their routine and TWG is usually better price wise than GF unless GF have offers (dunno why GF just don't do the stuff at a middle road price and be done with it) with Euro rate so good atm I dunno why I'm moaning about a bit of shipping GF add on a paypal fee - TWG don't

Airlabs ??? I just use these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-Rubber-Penny-Washers-Adhesive-Backed-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-SN0001-/250981193606?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3a6fa51786 M4 hole & 20mm diameter - may not be fully Airsoft Mechanics spec and correct 50 or 70 degree hardness but wtf at that price - does the job Self adhesive - could just buy plain rubber washer and superglue them on but like the peel n sticky ones £2 for 10 or 20p each, less if you buy in bulk

I think you could seriously over volume on aeg's..... take a full cylinder box like an AK47 with 455mm barrel then shove on a mp5k 110mm barrel = mofo over volume I'm gonna go with say green gas might behave react differently as it hits end of barrel and expands as it hits air or some other crap like that..... dunno - don't care to watch an open university course on expansion of gasses as it reacts to air at speed malarky just didn't seem to work for me on aeg - but was only about 100 to 125 mm over volumed

2nd tooth is already removed you need to reduce the 3rd tooth DO NOT REMOVE IT - it helps to engage the other teeth if you remove 3rd tooth then it may not engage 4th n 5th teeth on piston and jump you shave off the 3rd a little - leaving it aprox 75% height - most you remove is 50% - NO MORE if sector's 2nd tooth still snags it after removing a max of 50% off 3rd tooth then sorbo/AOE is too much after shaving 3rd tooth a tiny bit the sector should just miss it as it revolves and engages pick up tooth (slight gap you should see and be confident it would snag - common sense really) 1st tooth on piston is that chunky one called pick up tooth, 2nd tooth is already removed (cheers G&G) the 3rd needs shaving - small craft file is best to reduce 3rd tooth The face of the chunky pick up tooth and the sector gear's 1st tooth should slap each other flush or as near as damn it picture the two " V "'s slapping perfectly face to face - that is what you are seeking google some images - atm you are the wrong side of midnight so to speak from a sorbo overdose

NO - not that much unless you fitting a m190 with a $hitload of spring spacers the first tooth of sector gear is pointing at aprox 11:45 (or 15 mins to midday/midnight) you should be looking at aprox 12:30 - I say aprox coz you can have it it like 12:15 to 12:45 depending on your choice/build and how thick each sorbo pad is - eg 2mm increments my guess is you used a pad too many usually 1 or 2 will do the job - some piston's teeth can be set say 0.75mm further back than another piston heads - double O-ring ones and Silent piston's are longer and req very llittle sorbo's heck even the cylinder head can be deeper or shallow with thick or thin stock pad on there so you see there is no deffo - 2 x 2mm pads is the magic number for all (especially if pads are not 2mm thick)

Make sure you get this done in the correct order and right way round..... Otherwise the man himself could end up with an AUG tattooed on his black a$$

Bearings??? Or teeth on sector Or you talking about doing a way with piston bearing Keep bearing spring guide though Me thinks remove 1 tooth off START of sector Do not remove teeth at back it will mean tappet timing goes out and doesn't have enough time to seal as piston releases BUT you really need Max stroke on that barrel So either great seal but lower spring Or Slightly leaky seal and stay at 350 Me I would remove one bit or wrap of tape That should put you back near it. If still over you can either remove other wrap Or park spring pre-cocked overnight to bring down 365 to 350 ish One thin to try if you are happy with everything.... If you don't wanna mess with hop no more then cut some thin strips of electricians PVC tape say 5mm x 20mm Place say 2 strips on the very end of gearbox shell above n below the nozzle aperture.... Refit gun back and what you are trying to do is create say a smidge or push hop away say 0.25 or 0.5mm away from box and losing a tiny bit of perfect seal/fps.... Sounds bollox but say in 6 months when spring loses some tension and fps drops to say 320 from 350 Remove tape and bobs ya uncle you back with good seals and 350fps on a slightly worn spring

As long as peeps don't have a fear of dark or closed spaces you will be fine. It should be experienced just once at least Make sure you follow instructions coz dunno how true this is but they said one guy got lost and they went for lunch turning off the generator... He was stuck in there for 40 mins in TOTAL PITCH BLACK DARKNESS when they went back and found him he was a bit f*cked up to say the least Well so the story goes

I think it was Russell that said about a kind of way to cheat chrono.... Its a way of over volume or too much air expelled which is normally wasted on aeg's or can produce strange curves in flight.... It doesn't seem to apply when I tested a serious over volume AEG - full cylinder way too much for short-medium barrel How ever it seems to apply to gas guns dunno about hpa 350 on .20's should be about 310 to 315 on 0.25's However I with creep the heavier bb's can be higher than expected lower figures Yet the std chrono lighter 0.20's still stay at 350 or less Even though heavier 0.25 or 0.30' emerge at say 345 which is usually an AEG pushing 400fps on 0.20's Heavier bb's will travel better and hurt on close impact too (Reason why snipers @425 - 450 have a MED of 30mtrs) It seems to happen on gas but couldn't see any creep on 2 aeg's that were well overvolumed when I tested 0.20/25/30's on them a couple of months ago) It might be concentrated gasses behave differently to normal air under pressure, which might explain why gas guns can get joule creep and not or not so much as airy fairy aeg's This is quite possible 101% pure duck bollox but that is the theory I'm running with atm.

In true Airplane II style: "A BO....." "No not a bo, a bomb" Sorry - it is a bit quiet today

no cuddly toy or wobbly man ???

It will increase on the motor, which may be slightly related to rise in temp on battery. Pointed out spamming on semi greatly increases the strain and dunno how warm or hot peoples own definition is on what they call hot or warm. I would of thought the wires of battery should get warm like most of the whole circuit but again how warm in exact temps is open to people's own interpretation of warm to hot. 30c battery is plenty for now on a lightly tweak build but better capacity would be good AB is not really needed for most builds but know a few on here use AB fet's - it can increase load/heat on motor but all builds n motor makes can vary so see how it goes. If you can see how she runs without AB might help, Order up or see what size battery options n volts are available. Try HobbyKing's battery locator to see what big capacity batteries might fit in your gun's stock etc.... Soz for any " get " 's n other typo's as my fone is mental with predicted text

Also a freshly charged 7.4v will put out at least 1v fresh off charge. So you could charge up battery and see how she performs with say 8.4v to 8.5v from ya 7.4v lipo Pointing this out coz sometimes you can just scrape by with a 11.1v but a fresh one pushing 12.2v+ could spell PE BAAAANNNNGGGGGG

The temp is from active braking If you have the merf fet in there or an AB Get Which you don't really need. The most I have got on stock is 24.8 RPS on a v3 with very thick wire soldered to motor. V2 is a bitch to solder n remove wires to motor so your 21rps is about right on stock 18:1 gears You can expect 27 to 30 on 13:1 gears. Or try a 9.9 LiFe battery but limited range n Max 25c is what I have found. If you connect 11.1v you will hit 30+ which is risky If you have the merf 3.2 I don't know if you can enable/disable active breaking but that could be where some heat is generated. Spamming trigger on semi - say 120 shots in 1 minute really strains the get n wiring far more than 5 mins on auto, guy on YouTube showed me that n he really knows his stuff. If a fet passes the 120 in 60 sec test it is good to go in my book but that is a normal 3034 fet - non an braking btw

There is something deffo different about gen 1 src's boxes - I know some JG's need a tweak to go in say some cyma's but maybe a SRC box might go in an old JG M4 as the both might have had the 2 piece hop unit but a guy on here found out putting his old src box - the top lugs broke on top src plastic receiver so he bought a full metal receiver then kinda came unstuck trying to fit it 101% correctly - got the hump and decided to cut losses and buy new (non-src gun) I bought it as spares - using another 8mm gearbox in receiver and kept the rest for spares OP - who rewired it ??? but I know the sector is crap - so you may just need a better shs sector gear - lmk what gear shredded and did it take anything else with it

any gears will do. to replace the boned one (well v2 / v3 gears in case somebody says about L85 v6 v7 or longer tooth sr25) sounds ironic that it failed so soon after rewire....... out of interest - can you clarify something...... what gear failed - my hunch is sector gear - one that is half moon shape toothed to pull piston Those bastid SRC sectors are real crap - twice theve smashed and lost teeth quicker than a pub brawl is the Gearbox a grey silvery type of box with say 6mm green plastic bushings in there ??? if it has green 6mm bushings it is same box as fitted to not so great SRC M4's reason I ask is that they are ever so slightly slightly different to other normal M4 v2 boxes The holes are slightly slight different - sounds bollox but I bought a metal receiver M4 of somebody on here that they reshelled a SRC M4 and the tiny thin M4 pin didn't quite line up 101% in the other make M4 receiver swapped src box for another box and went in no problem also found forcing a proper m4 box into a plastic dragon makes a bitchy noisey box so though your mp5 might be different and you may have a gen 2 or gen 3 v2 box (higher gen or revisions have steel bearings instead of pi$$ poor 6mm plastic bushings) it might have 8mm bearings if gen 3 v2 box - but I can't 101% say for deffo any v2 box will go in there perfectly without a tiny tweak even if you buy a v2 box chances are it will be M4 so will need to swap mp5 selector plate over (not 101% sure if nozzle will need changing to from M4 to MP5 - seen them but unsure if it is for mp5k's or normal mp5's too) I'd look into getting the existing box re-done perhaps - might only need a new sector installed properly

agreed - uk 2-tone version: http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/hg-104-m92f-beretta-hfc-hg-104-m92-gas-pistol.html#.VVw0SPDp8i4 don't forget green gas only springer you should consider is a shotgun or sniper

I play for fun - just as well as my site is hardly for the more hard core pro players...... but even though I go to have fun - I do get a bit pi$$ed if I am running my out of shape unfit ar$e off back 30 paces off I go again trying to get that little nooby kiddy rental that keeps shooting my ar$e off only to keep finding Betty, Mavis, Rene & Gene still jabbering away out of range back at the start ffs lads - lets all get stuck in, spread out, charge at the bastids and try to take this position in a quicker time than they did Nope - they are still rabbiting away wondering why some of their team are shaking their heads as we respawn 30 paces back coz we are a few old dear's short when we advance Yes - peeps pay their money and can play how they like, I can put up with people appointing themselves generals. Get told to push up even though we got no f*cking chance advancing straight ahead Even being shot by my own colour blind team mates that think anybody in front of them MUST be enemy YELLOW FFS SAME AS YOU YA BELL-END !!! but peeps having a good old chinwag whilst others run their ar$e off - jeez guys you can pick out curtains next game in the dead zone ffs

me personally I'd pay a few quid more and get the 028a - the top cover is metal if the other is like the Spartac ones on GF then the 052 is probably plastic top cover or if you want more rails n stuff 039c - but dunno about M4 stock plus 39c battery will be under top cover unlike the others in rear stock though tbh you might as well get whatever you like and look into replacing top cover with a railed one or adapt your own cover with rail that is if you want a 47 - little 74 makes a good little 'un too My own feeling is they ain't quite as ergonomic as same old M4's me I can't flick from semi to auto n back again quickly like on M4's if using for cqb/open/cqb areas but AK's do kick ar$e airsoft wise and cyma's excel in this value for money wise whatever one you get

I'm no skilled player but I will have a go and assault - usually trying to go wide than just run in a straight line at 'em sometimes you are pinned down and get the gobby one at the back shouting push up...... ffs dickhead - you push wide or figure out a flank or something coz this ain't working in my book atm The thing though that pi$$es me off the most is you rushing back n forth - killed/respawn/killed/respawn and you see the same 3 or 4 people still f*cking chatting about corned beef, last nights telly, ooh where did you buy that grip/sight Ergh guys - not being funny but that aeg ya holding if you could perhaps display it towards the enemy maybe and just now n then squeeze a few shots off - if you feel up to it maybe just maybe if you can perhaps JOIN IN THE F*CKING GAME !!!!! yup now n then I might slope off for a smoke or reload or visit safe zone but ffs I try n pick my moment (usually I'm out of game on limited lives etc.....) But all games are different, players are different, In no skilled player but guys chat when round/game is over

Some sites stick to 328 - think Mall in Reading is 328 - absolute max they allow you to scrape by with is 340 so 350 would be too hot FPS as RR01 said don't mean or guarantee range - that 5% to 10% means jack if your gun is setup badly eg: Tokyo Marui often fire at 300 but will kick most gun's ar$e out of the box Buy gun - most will shoot at around 320 to 330 out of box - so in effect they come with a stock m100-ish spring 6 months down the line if you notice spring/seal decrease, then pay for service, new seals, regrease, new spring etc.... or pay for new spring now - and in 6 months time still notice you still may need a service

the guide is that a M100 = 100 metres per second or 328fps therefore a m90 is supposed to be 90% of 328 = 295fps...... However - spring performance can vary from different manufactures - often a m100 is a smidge more... SHS m100's many have squeezed 350+ from it but then again it depends on good seals and more importantly good assembly Element do springs in m5 gradients so you can get m90, m95, m100, m105, m110, m115 in fairness I think an Element m105 is about same as shs m100 All springs lose tension - especially if parked half cocked/spring compressed for a while snipers usually find they lose at least 10% in a few months and often change springs frequently to maintain max fps depending on site limits and your gun most here will run with m95 m100 m105 but all guns are slightly different if a gun has so-so seals or bad seal on hop many may use a m110 - normally a bit too much to compensate for any leak/drop

Yeah was gonna say - no way was it that lit when I played at best - gloomy to very dark to pitch black now n then at intersections watch for your own glim shadow giving you away no matter how quetly you try to be (which on zombie game they pump out horror theme noises/music too) even the regulars hardly used a flash - just now n then a quite millisecond flash to check corridor but that quick burst of light has alerted peeps a few blocks away...... One of the guys was using a 50/50 tracer mix ob bb's to see bb's hitting/deflecting off any non hittakers little tiny glowing bb's on the floor for a while - he was a good bloke too even if I did light him up by mistake when it was semi only - oops should be sampled - a little intense full on at times but if you like adrenalin flowing through you then this could be your thing to try next

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/3581-new-and-looking-for-somewhere-to-play/