Sitting Duck

don't get co2 pistol, often too hot to use electric pistol like a cyma glock aep is popular but often only 200fps gas guns are normally what most use work well except in really really cold conditions mags hold about 20-25 bb's, no need to buy £75+ blowback when there are some decent non-blowbacks about often popular models are MK23 @ about £45 or GG-104 or GG-105 m92 type for around £30 (green gas req, can use propane if people really use their pistols a lot but reckon you will be ok with can of Green Gas) think you will be quite happy with its performance for a low price

lol Reason why I pushing SHS Torque is they are cheap £25-£30 and easy to get hold of They draw about 2/3 of amps of much faster motors so should get more life out of lipo for about maybe 15% lower fire rate than riskier faster motors SHS gears over zci anyday - if stock gears are knackered grab a 16:1 or 13:1 if you are rebuilding - otherwise leave it as is tbh (if it ain't broke etc....) shs blue metal rack pistons if you keep the speed sensible - they are nice and can see why so many use them (don't think about blue pistons with plastic teeth - they shred like f*ck even if kept at moderate speeds) you can get say up to 27rps on 12:1 with torque motor on just 7.4v - that is fresh off charge 7.4v 25c lipo or get just over 30-32rps if you like everything running very warm to hot and your 7.4v draining quicker so I'm tending to go a little bit easy from now on and realise it isn't the gun's performance that needs improving.... It is simply MY OWN SKILLS that still suck and 20's is plenty for many of us

tbh - a safe bet would be shs torque or some sort of balanced motor if running 11.1v faster motors will run warmer or hot - the shs torque is supposed to 16tpa like a zci balanced but pinion on shs is better reviews say if you got a Krytac - why would bother to rip out/disable the 3034 for the sake of AB, then have to place the AB fet somewhere The Go-Faster boy racer in all of us wants insane rof/response but at what cost/risk ??? I've finally come to the conclusion on just how fast it is worth pushing UK spec guns.... 30rps is about the limit you are going to hit with major work or major f*ckups - and I done a "few" Yes you can Shortstroke a bit, you can add spacers - which in effect are just putting back spring compression from the missing teeth you removed But end of the day, unless you are going to do a big amount of work you will be lucky to get much past 30rps on a "normal" UK SSG setup without overspin/pre-cocking/double firing/risk of PE etc..... Plus torquey motors and slightly faster gears will draw less amps so battery lasts longer and give off less heat Go a bit nutz if you like - but don't go completely f*cking mental or insane on our UK guns is what I have found out the hard way I'm no expert - far from it, but it is easy to go tooooooo mad is what I'm saying your piston could of just stripped on its own or stuff like that but people really need to fully understand the risk of PE Once they have got their heads around how/why it happens and how close some high rof guns can get... Then ease up a bit, replace with full metal rack for durability but now you are a little wiser to not take the pi$$ so much So will reduce risk of PE but going a little less crazy, build remains durable and lasts longer Yes any risk of PE with metal rack is dangerous as no weak point so you could smash piston gears pinion up if PE occurs but you are bit wiser so you shouldn't be going too mad so jog on chaps in ya 20's is my thought Yes I may push to 40 for a laugh now n then but if I want it to last a bit I keep it 30 or just under in my last couple of builds with torque rather than speed motors - the current draw makes quite a difference not using higher speed motors - well winter I might like my hands warmed up from hot motors but in general it is true - balanced motors is what you really should be using

Using 18:1 gears plastic gearbox and very fast motor hitting 24.8rps she started double fire now n then This was using a 7.4v 30c lipo Use a 20c lipo or accept a bit of overspin on 25c on 7.4v fresh off charge This was an AK 12 black viper project, full cylinder not sure if it was 509 or 455 barrel I put in there But keeping her low 20's got her to behave http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/23635-first-ak12-in-production/page-5 Really should start another thread though as with my replies it's turning into war n peace novel that a quick Question & Answer

AB fet's can make motors run a little warmer due to reverse polarity, some may hint at possible shortening the lifespan of motor. 25rps is not what I would expect to be regularly double firing at tbh except on say longer barrel AK where a m95 spring will get near 350fps and thus more likely to double fire more due to lighter spring End of the day, it is entirely up to people what they do with your gun, to me firing two shots regularly on semi is not wise long term as gun is cycling too fast to complete just one cycle like intended. That is a clear fact You may be getting away with it but the gun is talking to you none the less, I'm just pointing that bit out very clearly But if you are getting away firing two shots on semi, all no wear or riskyness you have no need to worry is all I can say

me personally - get a £30 or so green gas non-blow-back pistol and tear his ar$e up with quick bursts (please wear good eye-pro ffs)

A seperate mosfet is same install as all others - end of only exceptions are going to be internal types like spectre ascu or poxy ares/G&G etu malarky tbh you probably best start a new thread, me personally I'd ease up on juice if gun is often double firing firstly that is likely to getting close PE if firing 2 shots on semi very often a decent burst on auto may strip your piston or smash your gears to f*ck using an AB to counterbalance a gun not fully prepared for high rof/response is not wise imho Also depending on rof - which you do not state rof or lipo or gearing/motor etc..... plus if she is double firing I do not wish to know in case by sustained auto she craps out - 1 minor jam can cause havoc even well built high speed builds As you approach 40rps the old school trigger system can also start to show its age as the mechanical raising of cut off lever to release sprung trolley may not always work 101% flawlessly every time - there is a limit to ye olde trigger switch setup - hence the arrival of non-mechanical switching mosfet/switch units like BTC ASCU etc... for the really mental speed/response freaks out there. Yes I know plenty use AB mosfets - nowt wrong with that, but a little overspin is fine do not confuse overspin with nozzle being retracted - that is normal overspin to me is when piston is say getting piston half retracted or seen in rear box window if gearbox has window double firing though is way too much overspin - probably hitting 30rps+ most likely on 11.1v also with that much overspin that she is cycling twice by either running that fast or on a light spring you "may" still get some overspin even with AB (I said may coz depends a lot on motor's torque if it can slow/stop THAT quickly in reverse polarity against speed it was travelling at) If your gun is double firing on semi very often and you propose to remedy this by AB fet then me personally sounds like using using a m120 to get around a bad seal that fires at say 270fps on m100 spring but a mosfet is a mosfet really - 2 ways to wire in, 2 wire mosfet install = supply/signal wire usually done with dedicated wire or rewiring the gun or 1 wire install usually when using most of existing wiring in gun, 2 posi wires on same switch contact & other contact is the signal wire back to mosfet That is it really - 2 ways to wire them in - either/or depending if rewiring gun or not is why people use this or that method mainly

did you add a set of hens teeth to your basket also ??? way above my humble nooby league - but best wishes all the same sir

WTF - looks like somebody nicked/scrapped the TARDIS or something and selling a load of spare bits on fleabay The Doctor is gonna do his crunch when he finds that bastid Derek the Dalek

Spidey kicks all their ar$es but DeadPool still comes out on top

or this thread could be changed to: What Safety rating and mathematical formula have you just worked out........ kind of kidding chaps - yes important eye-pro subject and enlightening to how short the F rating falls in joules or crown jewels (yes way short of a 500fps sniper and also said check for side protection/covering too) very good to bring this to everybody's attention all the same - I've learnt some more stuff too But back on topic - My JG G3 arrived yesterday with some bits n bobs & better G&G bb's hopefully Some R-Hop material - cheers proffink some scalpel blades/holder for next Hop project to balls up yup think that is about it - can't be ar$ed to up pics - you know what it all looks like blah blah blah going easy atm - just can't do with agro and keep tripping over the crap I got even though I can't seem to locate something I know I got ffs Oh well better order a new bit as I'll be f*cked if I can find that sod in all my piles of crap......

Think the more subtle but still important point Lozart is trying to make..... Bolle make some kick ar$e eye pro that passes way more than a bb stress test: http://www.screwfix.com/p/bolle-atom-safety-goggles/4516f#product_additional_details_container (however the side protection is not up to such high impact me thinks but still...) HOWEVER - just coz Bolle make stuff the above and many many more goggles for all areas etc.... DO NOT THINK ALL BOLLE STUFF IS THE SAME EYE PRO PROTECTION LEVEL Ski goggles and other stuff is not capable of withstanding sniper impact - well you might look good but that might change if shot http://www.ekosport.co.uk/bolle-carve-crystal-smoke-citrus-gun-15-p-9-2974.html?gclid=CNOqoI7tz8wCFSsq0wodrRYFrw so be very careful when buying eye pro and look for proper protection and ratings if possible yes shoot test but if rated to EN166 you should not need to test it really look around at proper safety eye-pro - you don't need to spend to much to be safe but maybe choose a safe pair with some style or look like a scuba diver or lab technition

Somehow a JG094 fell into my basket at GunFire "don't how that happened" is the line I'm gonna use when missus does her nut The line - "coz I wanted one" v "ffs enough is enough" - were racing through my head & "coz I wanted..." won this time just wanted to see what the MP5's big bro is all about I guess even though I'm not a great fan of front wired guns I couldn't resist no more I gotta stop or get help for this costly addiction.... Oh leave off - time I pay a shrink I could of bought some more guns say the little voices in my head (yeah but I'm the one that gets all the crap from 'er indoors - them voices are nowhere to be found when I getting it in the neck once again)

That is just cruel using ya dog to zero ya sights - poor little pup got some welts on his head did he kick ya ar$e on xbox one or something ??? Now get your gun off HIS bed

Think he is a f*cking octopus or something..... or Doc Ock has taken up airsoft...

yikes them Satan's ain't cheap, no doubt very nice but a tad too much for my toy guns for most builds - even UK higher speed/stress ones I think £30 will get you a decent motor yes some like Lonex and ASG motors but I can get nearly 2 BD160's for that and those still kick ar$e in a dsg or ssg (do not get BD120 = ferrite, or don't get m140 = slow neodym, BD160 = crazy bastid motors)

What's that heatshrink instead of ptfe ?? clever stuff if it is thin enough not to restrict fitting hop unit in outer might try that next time as I just bought some clear heatshrink in different diameters just thought sod keep buy a bit of red then a bit of black - sod it buy clear and be done with it instead

Big Dragon M160 is one hell of a motor I often use or a shs torque (shs speed on lower stress builds) it is a bit faster than shs torque nearly as quick as a shs speed motor but similar grunt to a high torque mofo Hopefully it might be a picky motor rather than the ascu itself not that I've used any units but think many rate Spectre's over acsu - still seen the odd problem on spectre's

Think I saw you putting this mofo together very carefully on - ahem Z1 cough splutter..... - a lot of high quality in there sir, looks da bollox and I'm sure she performs every bit as good as she looks

It isn't the look of the FireHawk but friggin' noise of the f*cker that makes it a head turner But it gets on ya own nerves in a echo cqb environment Not a bad gun for close cqb The FFR would be nice but ETU let's it down Short Raider might be a good stop gap Or as a good all rounder the CM18 is damn sexy To be honest G&G or ICS starters to mid range Oh for what it's worth, the 30k Krytac is nice but there are better motors out there - might be flogging mine if anyone wants one... Go for a gun YOU like, it is your money As for mods, it is up to you but to me if you want a longer barrel gun, then buy one rather than ruin stubby's with a stfu barrel/suppressor that just looks wrong Oh and please ffs don't get the HC05 DSG Firehawk No semi crap performance for DSG and won't be able to use it for cqb if semi only coz you only got full auto Trust me - do not get one, think most places have stopped selling these models coz they are not ideal guns for cqb Last one I got for £100 coz for cqb it is about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike !!!! (luv BrickTop's dialogue) ps - the guy in the vid is a nob what he did to the FH - fixed stubby M4 stock is really all you need and maybe another flash hider or stubby suppresor if the thing gets on ya nerves... To pi$$ball about like the guy did - ruined it and waste of time/money but that is just my take on it

right - I thought there was a shim or two on the other half of the box now what you need to do is remove cylinder and tappet plate and start to check the shimming.... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29767-hd-video-tutorial-bevel-to-pinion-for-aegs-gears-complete-guide-to-perfect-shimming/ I would try to leave the gears as they are in the left side of the box where the gears are sitting at present That way the rough bevel gear height "should" remain roughly intact them extra shims may need to simply go on top of the gears to finish the spacing out of gears.... bolt the box up and check that gears spin freely and slight movement side to side watch video and pay attention.... you shouldn't need to remove the gears and if you do ensure the shims go back as they are or you are gonna make the shimming & refitting harder shimming is very important and hopefully you only need to space out the top of gears and ensure they spin ok you don't shim too tight - aprox 0.5mm side to side movement and smooth running of gears spinning (ya finger in where cylinder window was and flick the gears.....) hopefully the gears can be stacked or shimmed back to roughly what they was like best of luck

Hmmmm - thought they were shims at first glance but unsure if they are washers that belong on the 4 small top bolts of gearbox The empty half of gearbox appears to have "shims" on the 2 lower of the 3 blue circled bushings these go on the spur and sector gears and is "probably" about right-ish for a basic shim job (at first I thought the sector didn't have any shims so the red items must belong on the sector perhaps) BUT - it appears on the other half of gearbox there are shims that belong on top of the 2 upper gears so I'm a bit stumped at the items that look like washers (thicker) than shims (thinner) I'm guessing the 4 top screws might have had washers if they were not countersunk like other longer screws in gearbox if this is a bit confusing I suggest you have a look here: http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?64187-A-technical-guide-thread-VERY-picture-heavy (yes it is zero one but a bit of breakdown of what a v2 box looks like and how it is assembled with lots of pics) ps - yes #9 & #10 are STILL labelled incorrectly ffs don't they correct it when it was pointed out ages ago ffs #9 is the SECTOR not the bevel gear #10 is the BEVEL not the sector gear jeeez - sorry for slight inaccuracy, otherwise it shows a good deal of what is inside a v2 gearbox