Sitting Duck

G&G or ICS - 2-tone/clear M4's both are highly recommended M4's and easy to sell on when you get RIF or even keep as a backup gun - when you compare one of them to a sub £100 gun from JBBG you can clearly see the difference and understand what a proper aeg starts to look/feel/shoot like ok they ain't Tokyo Marui's but a lot more like a decent gun that a £60 springer will ever be

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/30038-budget-of-ll-lll-what-gun-to-choose/#entry232449 http://airsoftzone.co.uk/starter-packs http://www.fire-support.co.uk/category/clear-starter-packs/ or a G&G Raider for £123 2-toned for free from zero one (have to buy battery/charger/bb's/mask etc....)

plinking in garden - ok I guess it is a springer so you won't kick ar$e competing against aeg's at 20+ rps we say try to consider and save for a proper starter like G&G at about £120+ you would be better off getting a gas pistol or something.... Monty did a gun to get on what budget post - read that I strongly advise

Just buy a Cyma AK - even a cheapo cm5xx series though tbh - get the better proper cheap starter models: CM028 CM037 CM031 Reason why - you got add in motor cage to motor & gearbox plus other bits n bobs go for a decent cheap cyma gun that offers excellent value for money Cheapy 5xx & Spartac's are the ultra budget cheapo AK's that come with plastic cover that will just break quickly get the "proper" cyma starters for a tiny bit more = money well spent

At least you got ya gun running - so not all doom n gloom and you got a scar to prove it - lol soz - I'll get me coat hope you are on the mend soon I mean

If it sounds like cat dying from a swarm of wasps = badly shimmed if the motor gets very warm quickly the bevel is shimmed too low that the motor or pinion is ramming it against shims/bushings/bearings though it would sound a bit rough - though a different rough sound to crap gears meshing badly.... remember to put a bit of grease on that poor motor's pinion too when you plop it all together (I forgot about this but does need it the poor thing as it is going 10 to the dozen of all the gears in ya box) bad shimming don't always sound rough, but motor getting warm quickly is a sign or blown fuses another too low and you end up winding motor in more and more until the pinion is hitting the bevel's AR lugs on it if it works, sounds decent = job done, I got a Galaxy MP5k once new from Poland and expected to find a dead cat inside f*ck me it was ultra roughly shimmed - almost as bad as my first few boxes chill - get out and hose some sods down - that is the real test or proof of the pudding is in the eating/shooting so to speak ps - even a brilliantly shimmed box can sound like a bag of ol' bolts if the motor's pinion don't like the gears or rather bevel I got a Dream Army motor - pah more like f*cking NIGHTMARE ARMY !!! every box I put in sounds painful - gotta change that pinion gear one day I think ya did fine if she sounds n shoots ok - really quiet smooth as silk meshing is not always easy no matter how well you try to shim everything perfectly - some gears and pinions are better/worse than others and some just sound a a tiny bit rough no matter what try

Oooh if only that would work.... No offense to anybody starting a new member - new post though most has been asked before........ Not being funny to people starting a new post - but by the time you composed a - new player need help.... What is best gun, bb, battery, site to play, scope, blah blah blah....... you could of banged in about 10% of the total characters used into the search function yes I know it is a bit crap with 3 character search crap but believe it or not Google is pretty $hit hot for coming up with answers too This place is brilliant - mainly coz of me - no seriously - excuse me for getting smug older members it was a joke, I have $hitloads still to learn myself There are also other good ones to browse like airsoft society - big US site, even if we/me says one thing - don't take it as pure 101% gospel do some research of your own - I have been known to be very wrong on occasions - yup I can talk very fluently out of my ar$e I have been correctly put in my place - plus as said earlier I am always learning from much wiser people on here and other places - plus my numerous many many mistakes & failures Seriously - sometimes people should do a little digging first - heck you may uncover a few examples even the wisest of the wise are unaware of I'm often searching google for various examples of my own balls ups to see what I did wrong and what I should of done Don't always listen to me - I am still a noob or a nob - whichever you prefer to use

yeah it will be fine, in fact a bit smaller than what I used in FireHawk which was this: http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1300mah-20c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery-136mm-long.html so I'd say yup it will work sir... However you could consider this one: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=44774 (small tamiya connector shown from EU location) slightly lower 1200mah 25c instead of 1450mah but that is taking all specs as gospel but less than half price

what you are supposed to do is basic common sense as in entering safe zone..... mag out - fire gun two or three times on semi to clear any bb's job done - unless your gun is firing extremely fast that is it magazine is also important - release the tiny catch - hopefully into the bag of bb's (unless you love seeing bb's flying around on the floor) empty the remainder of mag is optional but makes good wise sense... reason for this - if you leave magazine loaded up and fully wound up.... the spring inside hi-cap or mid-cap magazine will lose its tension and you will notice mag feeds $hit so park gun & empty magazine(s) when ya done tucking gun up with a blanket is optional but only if you still love your gun still

soz - fogot to mention that but may be more economical on gas

http://www.airshooter.co.uk/hg-0302-hfc-mk23-airsoft-gas-pistol.html#.VvbiktKLSt8 BUT - I don't think the item is actually in stock tbh it is another website of onlybbguns or iwholesalers it seems and onlybbguns don't have any in stock: http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/hfc-hg-302-mk23-airsoft-gas-pistol.html#.Vvbi6dKLSt8 but at £41:85 delivered - that is a bargain if you wanna take a chance of them having one left even on only it is £50 - even with using the " RC10 " to get 10% off that takes it down to £45 so under £42 is cheap as heck (RC10 don't work on airshooter site - I already tried that when I saw they might be same company) sadly I wouldn't hold your breath but that is about one of the best cheap as chips gas guns you can get 27 or 28 rnd mag - go nutz You could go nutz on a TM pistol or WE or a cheap n cheerful HFC - STTi - SRC (same company just rebrands) ps - you are wise sir and understand the regulations governing airsoft - some may seem a little daft but we abide by them all the same so refreshing to see that some people understand rather than - my gun why can't I do this or that with it attitude of some people or bbguns4less - damn I don't like to recommend these guys.... https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/kj-works-stealth-assassin-socom-mk23-gas-pistol.html oh well have a think and see what takes ya fancy - just use eye protection & common sense indoors (not that you should go senseless outdoors either)

look at ya gun - it is likely small tamiya.... two top right connectors are male/female small tamiya - reckon 90 to 98% stock guns will be small tamiya (probably 99% but I don't own every gun out there) bottom right 4 are large tamiya - unlikely to be used in most guns - maybe big fixed stocks but should have adapter from Large to Small Tamiya bottom left is a small tamiya btw like top right two 3 on top left are deans - usually found on upgraded guns - allows more current to flow through thicker 16awg wires to motor (16awg is quite thick and not all guns/gearboxes can squeeze in wires as thick as that) other connectors found/used... mini deans - unlikely to found but have seen a US baby M4 AEG that came with mini deans XT60 & banana plugs - mainly used on RC stuff than airsoft but some do use these connectors on guns I have seen Airsoft is usually small tamiya or Deans if upgraded as in picture sometimes using RC batteries that have XT60 connectors you need to re-do connections or get correct adapter polarity differs also on Large & Small Tamiya's so if using an adapter double check polarity is 101% correct Lipo's often have a min of 16awg - often 14awg, or higher burst 12awg+ wires in them jeez - really thought most of all this would be in that 3 page essay posting we done a while back I think I'm done on this for now - if you speak to componentshop.co.uk they will sort you out and answer any queries

G&G's use normal v2 A&K use extended v2 or 2.5 gearbox Difference - air volume The extended v2 has 19 tooth sector to give a longer piston stroke to create more air required for longer barrels Though length doesn't equate to accuracy - but if you try and fit a 550mm+ barrel to a G&G SR25.... good luck getting the oomph required - even with a bore up cylinder You can turn almost any decent normal M4 into a dmr without having to go down the must have SR25 route most sites aren't that picky on proper DMR's as long as they are locked to semi or go for cyma m14 - CM032 that seems to be a popular dmr gun

Plastic bb's ricochet EVERYWHERE indoors - set up your targets well and surrounding areas also to absorb impact from any flyers

lipo improves the fun factor works in all weather - though I doubt if the guy is that tight he doesn't have heating in his house... Of course I have heating - just choose only to use when its -5 inside... - kidding just a thought - he could scrape by with a cheapy non blowback mk23 pistol and use the suppressor to up the fps outside hey wtf - go for a shotgun, no accuracy but a tri-shot should get near that target - sod aiming that much

TM = Tokyo Marui - one of the best brands there is in airsoft daft question - but how about a cyma electric glock or something pistol ??? now it might only shoot at about 200fps but think that would be a little safer for shooting indoors ??? better than a springer - don't need gas, battery is a little fiddly is only thing that you might find a pain but for indoor target shooting I think it might be a consideration cheaper cyma glock £60 aprox or the mighty Tokyo Marui do an electric pistol £110-ish unless you got a 100 meter through lounge

They only catch fire if the UK comes out of EU No lipo's are a lot safer if we come out of EU then we have more control over our lipo's borders economy and funny shaped carrots/banana's etc... The scaremongering is stop idiots like me thinking stupid thoughts and being a dick with lipo's trust me they are fine - just don't do stupid $hit... (says king stupid $hit himself)

Stitch me up - think you need about 6 maybe a dozen Ian and some others got some done from there - good stuff on FaceBook blah blah blah

motor connector, try to strengthen the elbow - 90 degree bend with a bit of extra solder not massive blobs - just a thin bit of solder inside n out on the bend they can weaken so easily that they blow under load like a low rated fuse or just snap when fitting to motor HOLD UP THE CONNECTOR - if you don't then there is a chance solder can flow into connector itself if that happens you won't get the bastid on the motor at all and will nee to cut & replace with another new connector So fit, little crimp n solder connector, hold upwards, strengthen with a smidge more solder at the elbow - job done (I have welded a few connectors - so like everything, we are still learning by our numerous mistakes)

gotcha - might one of them anyway from Hong Kong seems to be like the other one but balance board built into meter already

there is setting on B6 in the manual somewhere... I have enough fun if I try to alter Lipo to Life and back to Lipo again jeez I tried saving some settings but thought a prog fet was tricky but B6 gets a bit wtf if you start altering some of them mofo settings that is all I know yeah got one them thingy's too but for checking amps really or balancing qwirky lipo's had one on B6 that was all over the place.... balanced on this thingy majig recharged and lipo balanced a little better - bit w@nked still but balanced w@nked than before http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Helicopter-Watt-Meter-DC-60V-100A-Balance-Voltage-Battery-Power-Analyzer-UK-/291305470857?hash=item43d328bb89:g:ticAAOSwkNZUcql0 sure they were only about £7 or £8 last year - jeez inflation... or are you talking about this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Key-Ring-Style-Lipo-Battery-Voltage-Checker-HobbyKing-2-6S-RC-Lipoly-Cell-UK-/191703062448?hash=item2ca26497b0:g:BZAAAOSw~1FUXOm8

Really - I've got one 11.1v that is a bit puffy but not noticed it on my usual 7.4v's one of them got run really low that gun failed to cycle but still works which I was quite amazed at - thought yeah that lipo is shagged I mean they come charged up - to what actual volts I don't know probably 3.7v-ish per cell What I will say is that a cheap B3 type balance charger was deffo over charging a bit - maybe 4.25v+ per cell and that may not have helped Also if anybody gets a LiFe battery - well don't coz think they ain't that great DO NOT USE A LIPO OR LIPO SETTING as these are 3.3v cells if you charge a LiFe up to 4.2v it will damage the LiFe battery some chargers have a LiFe function or setting - so use the LiFe setting for LiFe batteries - not LiPo settings

You do understand that nozzle retracted is nothing to be alarmed about in operation on its own.... By the time the first tooth on a 16 sector gear engages the pickup up tooth, I would say the tappet is already drawn back 90% - at least 80% of its travel already. By the time the piston is released - the tappet cam is at about 3:30 o'clock, meaning it has only one quarter revolution before it begins to retract tappet plate again. A little overspin - piston being retracted is fine but if after doing various tweaks you still are not happy then an AB Mosfet should reduce it - but I wouldn't bother myself If the gun is firing ok then the main problem is sorted Nozzle retraction will happen in nigh on most guns - stop worrying about nozzle see if piston is over well over half way retracted or double firing in semi - then you are running present setup too fast stronger spring + SS if possible if that was the case Gun fires - problem sorted - no worries Think you will find your gun very likely retracted the tappet before you opened it up unless AB mosfet that slows/stops the motor very quickly or you run it very slowly rof like 10rps the box will run on a bit and retract tappet anyway As said by the time the first tooth on sector gear engages the piston (AoE corrected btw) and just prepares to pull piston The tappet plate is already @ 85% retraction As guns cycle quicker with higher volts/juice, stronger motor etc... this over-run will increase if you are pushing a stock gun into 20's you will get some over-spin and piston itself getting a little pre-cocked If gun starts to fire twice on semi - you are pushing too much 20rps is fine with a tiny bit of over run or pre-cocking 25rps starts to over run a bit much & double fires 30rps deffo double fires and danger of Pre Engagement so keep it moderate - to save storing gun with spring compressed or pre-cocked use a lower/old/used battery that ensures the gun parks without piston /spring compressed the tappet plate will be retracted in nigh on most guns unless AB or very slow speeds

search button helps http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28401-moving-to-lipos-whadda-i-need-to-know/ not typing all that crap again discharge - nah sod that - remove lipo and as long as they stay above 3v per cell they will charge fine as long as they don't charge above max 4.2v per cell that is fine in a perfect world cells balance perfectly - but hey ho if that don't always work use a bit of common sense - if they look puffed or damaged then replace a little puff is fine - don't puncture them or you will regret it like I did

safe as houses....