Sitting Duck

Soz to hear that sir, my 24yr old daughter has T1, diagnosed two years ago...

Not much fun, watching what you eat, pasta is a carb that fucks up your levels for the next day & the nightly lantus shot etc...

 

She was hoping she might be mody than T1 but apparently not

(instead she's just fucking moody at times

well think anybody wouldn't be delighted to find they're diabetic)

 

PITA, but can lead a normal life - just gotta take more care of yourself, eat, exercise etc... jelly babies/orange juice to hand etc...

 

At least you know now & might explain why you was always tired/thirsty or other symptons you may have had for a while

 

Best wishes in you learning to manage your levels & adjusting your life a little so this condition doesn't hold you back

 

ATB btw

metal & wood, QC spring etc...

D-Boys stuff might still have a moody hop unit

but c'mon that is a lot of classic AK for tight bastids like me

 

if I was placing a TWG order one them might fall into my basket

if you go on the budget end of Cyma's

then don't go with 520 or 522 AK's

go with the 028 AK's instead

 

the £10 or so you save you get a plastic top cover

(that will break)

compared to the 028 metal cover

the 520/522 flash hider is not removable

where as the 028 can be removed

think the charging handle is plastic on 520/522

 

basically - the £10~£15 you might save buying an ultra cheap

520/522 - well you will spend that & a bit more replacing

the ultra cheap bits down the line - false economy so to speak

 

if you get your ukara/defense

then if you want a cheap full AK then this is hard to beat

 

https://www.taiwangun.com/assault-rifle-aeg/by-023-black-double-bell?from=listing&campaign-id=20

 

needs a tweak here & there - but that is lot of classic looking AK

 

or go to Cyma 4x series AK's, but gotta like that D-Boys/Double Bell

full AK mofo for the price

 

battery under dust cover

 

where as the cheap 522/028's have batteries in stock

so can shove almost any battery in them to get your AK feet wet

 

I'm not a big AK fan but that D-Boys/Double Bell AK

looks lovely to just hang on the wall to stand out from all the M4's

Yeah likely tappet timing, full fin & a delayer

especially if a long delayer like this...

 

 

not as enormous as some sectors like JG one...

 

 

now that is fucking silly, it is a one piece delayer

that has a pin cast into delayer that goes through

both halves of sector gear, so if you remove it

you need to drift in an old axle from another sector

to give you a pin to mount a more sensible clip...

 

You can just slip on a sleeve from old gears/sector

to add a whisper more retraction than delay as such

like what is only option on a DSG...

 

 

For the game, run it mostly on 7.4v perhaps

or 11.1v if running support for example

 

Wait until you need to open her up again

then either:

 

remove/change delayer

or

trim tappet

or

lop a couple of loops off tappet spring

 

if you short stroke it at some point

then you you should trim off about 5mm from fin

not insane stuff like DSG

but an inbetween full & DSG fin so to speak

 

TBH running it full stroke at 29~30rps at 325fps

is kinda sailing a bit close to wind for my liking

 

so really stick to 7.4v...

 

What motor is in there ???

Think that is a ZCI 22tpa/20~22k rpm as 30k would be like 25rps

 

Something like a 25k would have just put you into the 20's

but tbh you are pretty damn close to what you wanted

 

but low current/amp draw, snappy response etc...

short stroking might not be an option on a 400~450 barrel AK

 

So overall you are at what you sought to be

plus when the v3 Perun arrives you'll have pre-cocking

so all's well that ends well as they say

 

I'd be tempted to look for a slightly quicker motor

not much quicker, but if you come across a cheap 19tpa

then that could fit the bill

 

but 30rps on full stroke 325fps is getting a little close

and tbh as it stands atm on 7.4v, touching 20rps

that's a good rof on a full AK, with snappy response

As said there will be variations depending on power/energy...

 

CQB 300fps then yeah 0.20 ~ 0.25

 

DMR/Sniper on 425/450fps to propel heavier ammo

 

but reckon 0.12's are unlikely to be used much

unless maybe if you are running Germany's sub 250fps limit

for auto peew peew but reckon they'd fly everywhere

and may not be felt unless the Germans play naked airsoft

 

Kinky...

 

There is an optimal weight/mass in relation distance...

 

Too heavy & it requires way more force/energy to travel

 

Too light & it doesn't travel hardly at all

 

Take a practise golf ball down the driving range

& see how far it will travel compared to a real golf ball

 

Ahhh but the practise golf ball has holes in it...

 

 

OK if you think it makes a difference try teeing off with a ping pong ball & see if that will travel 180 yards or 180 ft

 

Now there is obviously a lot more to this

but somewhere betwwen a 0.12 BB & a 0.40 BB

there is the "optimal" weight/mass

& there might be slight variations depending on power/energy

 

but the golf ball / ping pong ball example is good one to use

yet some people will still refute it...

 

oh well - they probably think the golf/ping pong ball is flat too

so do I now after all this lighting crap

@ak2m4 you can just buy the GU10 connectors with tails, then wire it into 240v light junction box etc...

 

The downlighters "should" be compatible to convert MR16 to GU10 etc...

 

Just my old downlighters were tight fit and no ceiling cover which with fiberglass insulation on old halogen (hot) is risky if insulation gets near it...

 

The LED bulbs I tended to go for are the ones with a diffuser on them, than bare LED's...

 

OK that part of the bulbs is settled...

 

The difference of opinions in our house is then down to...

 

5w or 7w...

5w isn't bright enough one says, 7w is a bit bright says another...

 

Cool White or Warm White ???

Cool White - too white missus says, Warm White looks a little yellow-ish says the kids...

 

For FUCKS SAKE !!!!

 

What happened to a bulb blew & you just popped a new one in, job done.

 

Think I'm going down the GU10 LED route, just trying to confirm what wattage/shade of white to go with, coz I'm fucked off buying anymore bulbs n crap...

 

Energy saving my arse,

Spent plenty of energy already fucking about with various options & configurations - just annoying I didn't heed the advice beforehand

 

Quote

yeah, wish i was wise enough to listen to duck when i started tinkering.....

 

I wish I listened to wiser people when I opened stuff up

I foolishly bought higher speed motors

tried to run stuff way too quick (just broke quicker)

took off wrong teeth when first SS-ing (muppet guide)

many things I did & tried ignoring a more sensible approach

 

Turns out the wiser guides, where you don't have to go nutz

both on speed & on not upgrading EVERYTHING

yeah the kinda boring, simplistic stuff but carefully assembled stuff

with attention to detail - pah sounds rather dull...

 

the stuff where you get it all working silky smooth

and only replace the parts you really need to...

ergh yeah, that stuff yields the best results

 

off topic but somewhat relevant...

 

I've made a mountain out of a molehill with kitchen lights...

 

Originally MR16 12v halogen on transformer which was 240~12v AC

Transformers eventually give out & needed to redo the lights

Bought a new, soft-start transformer - still 12v AC a while ago

 

Was told by a couple of sparks - forget 12v halogen transformers

switch to 240v GU10 instead, lot less agro now with LED GU10's

(the bulbs have got better and work without agro/flickering)

 

Ignoring that advice, fitted the 12v AC soft-start transformer

and "some" 12v LED's kinda worked, but bought some others

which didn't work - mega flicker/strobe effect coz they need DC

 

So bought a 240v~12v DC transformer - well 2 actually...

One is beefy but draws nearly 4w with no bulbs

Other draws 0.5w but a slight delay before bulbs turn on...

 

meantime, some of the MR16 LED's are a tight fit in old downlighters

so bought new downlighters (with fire-proof housing for insulation)

 

Now I'm now considering changing the connector/wiring in new

downlighters to GU10 and just be done with it...

 

So with a fuck load of MR16 bulbs, downlighters, transformers

also wired up 4 x diodes & capacitors trying to stabilise AC to DC

(not quite perfect either)

Plus a tester plug to display wattage of devices and lots of stuff

sitting in front of me & also me getting the fucking ache of it all

 

I am once again thinking to myself - why the fuck didn't I heed

good sound advice & switched to GU10 LED's from the beginning ???

 

HINDSIGHT IS A WONDERFUL FUCKING THING

Yet wisdom is attained by making numerous fuck ups

(& learning from them)

 

So simply put - WHAT THE FUCK DO I KNOW ???

 

I've done it a few times, but tbh like I said if you use a light-ish piston, say a good light POM, drop the std Chinese metal spacer...

 

The 8.5mm spacer inside the piston on most cheap China guns weighs around 6.5gms

 

If you use bearings - the spacing is about 5mm & consists of a bearing, with a top & lower race collar/washer, plus a collar to mount it all on, with a m3 bolt into the piston head etc... - well this weighs around 4gms, so about 2.5gms saved

(though about 3.5mm less spring compression)

 

If you use a 5mm thick x 15mm diameter plastic/delrin collar/spacer instead of bearings, it weighs about 1gms, maybe 2gms if topped with 1mm washer like G&G often use

So by using a plastic spacer over the chunky alloy spacer, you could save 5gms in piston weight - try swiss-ing 5gms from a 15gms bare piston

 

Taking it a stage further, most China guns come as std a little hot, often shooting say 390fps with a m115/m120 spring...

 

So you could remove the 8.5mm alloy spacer completely, lowering spring compression power to around m100...

Fix piss poor compression will boost fps back up a bit...

So Short-Stroke 2 or 3 teeth and you could end up producing around 335fps, short stroked with a lightened piston that you didn't need to swiss cheese at all

 

NB: if SS-ing you need a metal rack or part metal rack, so last tooth or two is metal when piston slips & releases

 

Metal rack piston (bare) is about 16gms

(smidge less/more but around 16~17gms depending on make)

POM piston head - say 5gms, 6gms with o-ring

add say 1.5~2gms for m3 bolt/screw, perhaps with m3 nylon lock nut & penny washer inside...

should be able to get a full metal rack piston at say 24gms

maybe a little less if removing some teeth on rack if SS-ing

 

**** std plastic piston with 1 metal tooth weighs about 12gms ****

(so this ultra light piston might benefit from alloy spacer to add mass)

On a full metal rack, you already have 4 or 5gms more weight,

so can afford to lighten it a little maybe (drop spacer if gun is a bit hot)

Yeah somewhere about 25gms give or take

for final complete piston weight is a fair guide

can be more if using heavy metal piston head

& heavier piston (don't buy alloy pistons)

 

most you can save is about 2.5~3gms when swiss cheesing

and the drilling/dremel work is fairly OK, though be careful you don't slip and take off too much material or weaken it too much

The PITA is the cleaning up the burrs, smoothing out the whispy bits, cleaning the holes with scalpel and quick sanding to smooth any crap down & clean it up so no bits find their way into gears/drive chain in use etc....

 

yeah fuck all that to save a few grams when it really isn't needed in most builds - if you plan it correctly you can keep the piston fairly light without all the fuss of swiss cheesing & cleanup etc...

 

I've done it a few times, got right into it with OCD etc...

but really the few grams saved vs time to clean up stuff

naaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh not that big of a deal tbh

 

but by all means, if people wanna have a go then go for it

try it on some old std 1 metal tooth piston

or a wrecked piston, to help practice & develop a rough pattern

before diving in making your metal rack piston look like a sieve

 

after a few goes, i reckon most will say - fuck this

I'll just prepare the piston/head more wisely & lighter

than piss ball about & risk making holes in my nice new piston

For most builds, no need to Swiss/lighten the piston...

 

If you use a decent piston like SHS Cyma, a lightish piston head, without heavy spacer inside then you will have a piston about 25gms complete

 

Lightening piston will save you approx 10~20% of the day 16gms of the bare piston...

 

So 2~3gms saving but if you plan it correctly the piston wont be heavy anyway.

You need a bit of weight/mass too, especially in a DMR they say. Only if crazy insane DSG's is Swiss cheesing a possible option.

 

Yeah you can go nuts if you like, but the time involved, especially cleaning up the burrs & stringy bits of plastic can take some time - so only if you really really want to Swiss stuff.

 

If you select decent light components, then naahhh no real need in most cases

remove motor - problem solved

 

mount gun on wall & marvel at the beautiful grip on it

are we talking pistol grips with bad motor angles ???

@ak2m4 thing I wonder about...

when you get off the plane and have to stay in a hotel to quarantine...

 

Doesn't the cabin crew also have to quarantine too ???

 

After all they have been on the same aircraft with a plane full of lepers all breathing the same air & had to stay over in the place you flew back from on a long haul flight ???

 

Ahhh - but they are vaccinated most likely...

 

But you can still catch & infect others even after vaccination, hence still wear masks & social distance etc... so are the cabin crew also entering quarantine too ???

 

Besides, I would be flying First Class with Charlie Sheen & Hunter Biden so us lot up the front are exempt from all those lepers in economy class, plus all the hookers had the vaccine...

(even though it looked they was shooting up heroin & smoking crack)

 

 

Enter a promo code...

 

are they taking the fucking piss or something

you would need like a 95% discount code FFS

 

$10,410.99 x 0.95 or 5% of original BS price = $520:55

(a bit more reasonable - ish)

 

Yeah best of luck finding the 95% discount code

Fuck me you could go First Class & collect it in person

& still have change to spend on Wu-Flu hookers

 

 

loved the out take at the end

reminded me of Deadpool 2

 

Blimey grab a few more then...

 

 

 

 

 

just kidding btw...

 

they have another strain of COVID...

 

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/feb/15/32-cases-of-latest-covid-variant-of-concern-found-in-uk

 

& is followed by Brenda clip

 

I just thought of you & your affection to DE HB's - she might react in a similar way

 

that aside - completely understand buying something you really like more than once (or twice etc...)

 

But people like Brenda might be a little taken back to find you bought ANOTHER ONE...

 

 

Brenda from Bristol has just found out about you ordering your third DE Honey Badger...

 

 

I went through some shit times for while too sir, on/off for 2-3 years.

If you feel low, wanna sound off or anything pm me sir.

I'm not going list my obsessive list of dupes...

but I see nothing wrong with a backup of same gun you like

(or two, or *insert insane figure*)

 

if you killed the mosfet then go Perun v2 optical

from Airsoft World...

https://www.airsoftworld.net/perun-v2-optical-drop-in-programmable-mosfet-rear-wired.html

use code: AWFF1102312012 to get 5% or £3 off = £57

 

NB: you will need to install a safety arm

as the DE doesn't have one on safe mode

 

bit of agro - but more features & stuff

or just keep as spare I guess

 

Luke at NA was testing out a prototype Perun optical trigger unit

kinda an optical G&G ETU switch unit replacement

as an option when the G&G shits the bed or other guns even

 

Perun are upping their game with work in progress

plus good stuff already on offer = cost effective GATE alternatives

 

 

 

 

Damn it gif links no worky from fone...

 

Kidding sir, fingers crossed for ya

have faith - 16 billion parcels & all that...

 

 

deliveries to 27 million homes

all in a day's work...

 

 

straight to your door...

(well front room - fuck using the front door)

 

 

kudos to our posties...

 

 

Not really in to painting stuff myself

only really krylon'd some clear or two stuff black

 

but DAAAMMMNNNN that is pretty fine job it seems to me

 

did you use airbrush or just cans ???

I got some basic airbrush kits & compressor

but was for a project at work to spray silicone & counter

at counted intervals to keep production machine running

(reducing static build up - fucking worked & fun project)

 

I could easily dig them all out & go nutz

but not my thing really - can't be arsed

 

BUT - credit where credit is due...

 

 

Yeah thought the chrome/silver 621 motor

"should" be a bit better than the 516 cheapo one

(tbh couldn't be any cheaper/worse than the 516 motor)

Only manufacturers do NOT ALWAYS fit the expected better

components as the gun/model's price tag increases

(usually this is true - though never always assume it will be)

Good to know it is a stronger neodym motor in there though

 

SHS is a good 28~30k motor

the RA seems (according to specs) to draw less amps

in line with being a 24k motor,

which is a good thing on 13:1 gears

(as said I'm slightly sceptical on specs if it really is a 16tpa

like can might say - more like 18tpa but who knows in the end)

 

but either motor combo will be an improvement

and the 516 gets a bit more zest either way

 

bit of work doing both guns

but I concur that it will offer a sensible outcome

where both guns benefit from it

and as said HOPEFULLY this upgrade malarky will reach a satisfying conclusion where both guns are sorted for a good while

A thing to watch out for is using agressive Active Braking

with some motors like SHS, G&G type cans/end-bells

 

Something to do with a mildrisk of shorting from two allen bolts into lockring under end-bell

 

Pete @ak2m4 does metion certain motors don't like agressive AB on Titans etc...

and being now the 621 has the Perun Optical in there...

 

Then be careful perhaps at using high levels of AB

 

TBH - you could get the SHS/RA with vented can

and if it goes a bit funny then shove the motor in 516

and then 13:1 in the 621 will still help

 

the 621 motor is probably a little bit better than the 516 one

the really cheap 516 Cyma motor is a 27tpa but really chucked together by a 3yr old - yes really a 3yr old

 

The Grey Cyma 27tpa, has no bearing in motor tower/shaft

the windings are crimped on and then somebody shot their load over the commutator - coz their is white rock hard heat resistant glue all over it - different to blue/green heat cement to hold winding in place on armature

presume to "balance" the mtor - nah, don't look like it carefully affixed - just splodged on at random where winding is crimped to commutator - it's fucking rock hard so forget ever trying to rewind this armature

 

Now some of the higher end Cyma's use a chrome/silver motor that "might" be say 22tpa and stronger magnets - in higher guns even perhaps weak neodym or stronger ferrite perhaps.

But certainly seems to perform a bit better in Cyma's high speed 13:1 Short Stroked HS G36's etc...

 

So you might get better performance just by using the 13:1's in 621 without needing the SHS/RA motor

 

But you could still grab one to try and if it plays up with Perun on AB

Then keep Cyma motor in 621 now with 13:1's

& chuck the SHS/RA in the 516 for added zest on 18:1's

 

Thing is atm, a number of bits are getting thinner on the ground

in stock or at reasonable prices whilst this import malarky begins to settle down a little

 

So some bits like motors from China might be limited availability for a little while longer & people like Pete have few options in stock atm

 

Now personally I think the specs of the RA vented 16tpa is not quite correct...

 

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/rocket-high-torque-motor-long

 

See if that was 16tpa then it should be a bit higher on rpm on 8.4v at say 28k

and maybe the amp draw a bit higher than 3.5a unloaded

as the true SHS hits 29k at 4.8a

 

now these motor specs/performance do vary quite a bit

and some of the tests may have been done on one from a batch

and different magnet strengths, wire thickness SWG etc...

Plus China sweatshops revise stuff all the time

(quality can vary hence the term: Chinese lottery)

 

Personally I think the motor is perhaps somewhere like a 18tpa

at say aprox 25k rpm but could be way way off with my gut feeling about the vented RA

 

However limited choices atm, and if issues arose

then you could just chuck it in 516 I guess

 

if it was say a 24k/25k motor it should be OK for the 621

but if AB issues arose then no biggy to chuck in 516

& use the silver/chrome 621 motor on 13:1's

 

both guns then get a bit more snap anyway