ak2m4

My XM177 is front wired AB++ with 2mm banana plugs for the power and signal cables.
 
Colour code the heat shrink AND reverse the +ve and -ve connectors (female / male) so you can't accidentally get them the wrong way round!!!!
 
Cracking little unit even if it doesn't play nice with my Warhead motor (2rd burst would have been a nice option but they just argue and fail to cycle properly 🤣)

2mm banana plugs are a great option for adding a quick disconnect.  

If in doubt...give a shout👍
So you may have to take a walk to your respawn or dead zone or even take yourself out of play for 5mins.
It's not the end of the world. But consider that the sniper who hit you from a distance saw the hit even if it had the impact of a tap on the shoulder. Don't be the one that the marshalls have a quiet word with. 🙂
 
Regards 

Huh. TaiwanGuns got a massive markup for yall. Its literally half that here. 418 quid is about $530 USD right now. I wonder if theyll sell a tan version of the stock... Could use it on my VFC 417a2...
 

 
 

My Ares VZ58 has the same setup; I believe it is common across many of their models.

I think (don't quote me on this) the gearbox uses their microswitch'd ETU which uses a magnet on the sector gear hmmmmm.  Not sure if that's the way forward, not seen anything about the long-term reliability.  Nice externals of course, but as you say pricey.

2mm banana plugs are a great option for adding a quick disconnect.  

It's fine, I have a front wired Perun AB++ in my JG G36.  I soldered straight to the trigger tabs on the outside of the gearbox, and didn't even have to open it up. On an external unit like this, with those trigger tabs, it's not relevant whether it's front or rear wired, so long as you can get the wires to the battery (and you can).
 
The AB++ sits just inside the battery space under the handguard, which doesn't help the already cramped space, but I can get a 1400mAh 11.1V lipo in there with it, so it's all good. You can add inline connectors somewhere in the wiring, but I didn't even bother with that.

I have front wired one for an LR300; I am not sure how the wiring runs on a G36, but I just added connectors in the power and signal cables, so that the gun could be dismantled.

Godamit! 
 
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185221049151?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LR34F1yeRHO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tna5mbwtskm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
 
More stuff to buy. 🤣. I thought they were going to put the OCP logo on it though 😢

Umm - I don't think it has a dedicated ruler function - I've just use the line tool and the very good snapping system to measure things . The 'CAD for artists' term thrown about means that it'll do a lot of modelling like Fusion (as opposed to software like blender) with enough precision for 3D printing etc, but it's not as engineering focused as Fusion so is missing things like an analytical tools section. Kind of a half way house between the traditional 3D modelling software and CAD.
 
Try it for 30 days, follow a couple of tutorials and see what you think - they don't ask for any details/payment/registration information - it's a straight download from the site - just install and go.
 
 

Get me some dimensions and you can have one in aluminium or steel...
 

good on ya man.  3d printers like anything just have to buy one, jump in and muddle around.  see some people use silicone molds for zanak casting now, handy for when you want to make more than one unit.
 
you can make me 1000 gearbox shells if you want 🙂

That's more the sort of size, but nah, I'm not paying gun value for a flash hider.
 
If I can't find the thing I think I'm thinking off, I'll probably just bust out the waste pipe and hot-melt glue or buy a 3D printer.

It would spin the motor, it just spins the motor the wrong way as you have reversed the polarity (man, this sounds like some back to the future stuff). Assuming there is an anti reversal latch that would prevent the gears from turning. 
 
If the motor wasn't properly seated and therefore not engaging with the gears, this would explain why it did turn before it was seated properly (not engaging gears) and didn't turn when it was seated properly (engaging gears). 
 
 

@Rogers84 if you're worried about PME use a 7.4 lipo 🙂

forget the silent cylinder head / piston head combo, they're just too much trouble for little gain.  The rubber is notoriously difficult to get to stick to the aluminium - I no longer sell them.

forget the silent cylinder head / piston head combo, they're just too much trouble for little gain.  The rubber is notoriously difficult to get to stick to the aluminium - I no longer sell them.

Short barrel AEGs are notoriously noisy things and a silent piston head will do approximately zero to ameliorate that. The noise you hear is excess air from an over-volumised cylinder compared to barrel length. You could replace the cylinder, but that may restrict your options should you wish to lengthen the barrel later. @ak2m4 Sells a ZCI 1/2 Cylinder that would be suitable for your stock inner barrel length.
 
G&G stock piston heads are ok, not necessary the hardest-wearing plastic, but it it isn't broken there's not much point in replacing it. 

looks like the 1st tooth (the big thick one) is a little high, it could be rubbing against the top of the sector gear, but I've got zero experience of the eve so might just be a "thing".  However is easy fixed grinding it down.  you're right though perhaps leave it for a few games and see how it performs.

Yes they do, which made me very happy to see your motors have a fan to take advantage of that

Thank you for the fast shipping @ak2m4 
 
So as it turns out, after ordering the madbull piston, shims and motor, all I really needed was the motor!
 
My original concern was how quickly the motor heated up as well as the battery. When I opened it up, I noticed the piston doesn't look stock - this wasn't mentioned in the listing when I purchased it. They had mentioned a tech put in the new nub, titan and trigger, but nothing else:

 
 
Whilst the piston head wasnt the best, as it is stock, i suppose if it isn't broken don't fix it. The teeth on it look ok. However, the AOE looked a little odd at first:
 

 
Although depending on how you look at it, it's not too bad, especially when you match the next set of teeth, and consider that the previous tech put in sorbothane padding in the cylinder:
 

 
Whilst you could shave down that first tooth, the clearance seems fine. I figured I would trust the work that's already been done to it rather than complicating it further. But I will heed your advice @Speedbird_666 - if something seems off in future I'll replace the piston head as I now have the parts to do so!
 
I have noticed since putting it back together that the safety selector is a bit dodgy, I'll rectify that at some point this weekend. 
 
I'm new to this sort of tech work so let me know if you think what I've decided is garbage or not lol

What frustrated me hugely in the past was 99% of motors on a website would give the RPM but never the voltage.  Some older spec pdfs used 8.4v nimh.  In the end I actually purchased a chrono rotation thingy (the name escapes me now) so I could measure motors and find out the rpm.  I switched to the XT motors with the little plastic fan on due to the high number of failures with Rocket and ZCI motors when used with 11.1v.  Heat is indeed a killer.  The brushes on the XT contain a little more silver than normal apparently, not sure if that really affects anything.
 
Oh ask a Chinese motor factory that you want a "something TPA" motor, they won't have a clue what you're talking about 🙂
 
Do DE have vents in the motor grip base plate?

Hopefully arrive tomorrow for you.  Keep an eye on your email for a RM tracking link.

Thank you both, should be here by the end of this week. I'll give it a fix on Saturday and let you know how it goes!