Cheeky vimto

As far as I'm aware they're too young.

Just wondering if I'm missing anything to repair guns. If you work on them, what do you keep? From let to right: - Super glue - thread lock - silicon gun oil for pistols - green paint marker - rocol aqua-sil (use piston o-rings) - bear lock - black electrical tape - PTFE tape - solder - Lonex grease - gleitmo 585k grease (use on gears) - spare 3mm gearbox screws - dean connectors - red/black heat shrink - different sized cable ties - spare o-rings - radiator cowling edge protector (was thinking of shortening mesh mask and putting around the edge) - old parts Am I missing anything? I think I've got everything I need to sort out a faulty gun. What does everybody else keep?

True, would be interesting to know if thats ever happened yet.

It's not metal.

I got it used so it was the same price as a new CM16, It was mint condition. I only wanted the external shell, I had it in my head i wanted to build my own gun. Haha, I've had it 6 weeks now and it's yet to make it to a skirmish! Maybe next week..

The novelty wears off of having a metal gun, especially during warm days and you're moving alot. Try the G&G Top Tech m4s? Or like it's already been mentioned; upgrade the CM16 into a beast

Not all CQB sites are semi only. My local is full auto with no minimum engagement rule. The sites is all tunnels so sometimes you're literally 5m or so from the enemy. I've yet to get overkill from really someone, it seems to work. That Trojan sites was all indoor and that was full auto too.

For torch protection refer to the opening post in this thread I ended up taking the protective cap off as It looks alot better without it. I'll regret it one day when I have no torch..

And you'd need to install a windscreen wiper to see after 5 mins.

You'll enjoy it more with your own gun. Every site I've been to have crap rentals. As for sites I've only been to one up you're way; trojan in manchester and I didn't like it. It had only just opened at the time so they might of improved it now.

If there's no trace of where it comes from then whole ukara is useless. Pay cash at shops, if you do something illegal the shop denies all knowledge of you.

It might be able to take a hit but because it doesn't seal the eyes is it possible a BB could ricochet under the visor? It could bounce off the visor and into his eye. That's the main issue sites might have with him using it.

Problem might be if you got shot from behind is it possible the BB could ricochet off the inside of the visor and into your eye? Presuming you mean a visor by face plate? Maybe post a picture of it?

Took me awhile but I found a picture of the anti reverse latch; Link; http://www.airrattle.com/G-G-Top-Tech-Anti-Reversal-Latch-for-Metal-Gearbox-p/g-10-082.htm

How could you prove you bought if off a private seller though? It's not like you get a receipt.

All ucap sites banned two tones. I spoke to the owner about it last year and apparantly that's what the players voted for. It makes the game more realistic but I guess it also puts new players off as they have to keep renting until membership/ukara. It's a catch 22 I guess.. Welcome to the forum anyway!

Thanks for the responses. I kept firing it last night while it was screeching and then took it apart. I think I found out what I did wrong. when I installed the 70D sorbo I simply glued it to the pad on the cylinder head. This knocked the AOE well out. The teeth on the piston were worn quiet badly. I think the noise was coming from the gears sliding past the teeth. The washer in the spring was from the spring guide that came loose. It was a guide off ebay, just a cheap one. I guess the end cap wasn't thread locked on. I just stuck the original one back in it. The anti reverse latch has two arms on it, it's weird. It'll only go on one way and if it were on wrong it wouldn't shoot all together. Here's what I've done this morning; - Took the original rubber off the cylinder head and attached the sorbo back on. - followed a different guide for AOE - reshimmed it - bought a new piston ( and piston head as I couldn't get the other one off) - greased everything It seems to be firing fine again. One of the screws that clamp the GB together was stripped at the head so I'm going to get another screw from work before proper testing it out. To me it looks like all this started from being lazy with the sorbo and not checking the spring guide. Live and learn I guess!

It's not jamming now but it's screeching like a mofo..

I've upgraded my EBB GR16 gearbox and found after a few shots it would jam up. Taking the gearbox out shows it always jams with the spring pulled back under tension. A little history on what I've changed; - Disabled EBB by changing cylinder to SHS ported. - Cut off 2 teeth on piston for AOE - changed cylinder head for a red SHS double o-ring - installed 70D sorbo pad - Changed spring guide for one with a bearing - Changed gears for SHS 13:1 - Changed to 8mm bearings - Shimmed gears - Installed mosfet - Changed motor to Lonex A1+ I've managed to open the gearbox and the first thing I've noticed is the end of the spring guide has unscrewed itself; Closer inspection shows as it's all come loose the washer covering the ball bearings rattled around and the spring has damaged the bearing runner, making it useless. Could this cause the whole thing to jam though? I still have the stock spring guide, I'll try it with that in it.

After reading this I'm glad I went with a used EBB raider vs a cm. It's the little things like the charging handle having a purpose that makes the difference.Although the first thing I did with the EBB was to change the cylinder to stop the blow back . Thanks for the review flex.