Lozart

Pretty sure there's a good few physicists that would argue the toss over that. As for the relationship between energy and momentum, the maths is pretty bloody simple (for non-relativistic bodies anyway). The kinetic energy of an object is related to its momentum by the equation: where: is momentum is mass of the body Momentum being the product of mass x velocity.

If you just want a FAST style/opscore, of the cheap Chinese knock offs the FMA ones are definitely the better ones. They do have both dual sized (M/L, L/XL) ones and some REALLY cheap one size jobbers (avoid those). I have a "PJ" style FAST, a Maritime and a Team Wendy (all FMA) and they have been great. The PTS Flux is an officially licenced MTek copy and is better and more expensive than an FMA but if that's the style you want then it's a no-brainer.

As they say in the briefing at my local site, if you've brought an impact grenade to a woodland site then you have the wrong tool for the job. Personally I've always stuck with paper pyro anyway because it's more likely to go off and I can yeet the fuck out of it.

I've done it before on custom paint stuff. If you can, put some clear lacquer over the letters to stop then scratching off!

The SEF markings are usually inset (moulded in) and then coloured but the font you'll need is https://www.1001fonts.com/alte-din-1451-mittelschrift-font.html You can get water transfer paper that works in an inkjet printer and make your own (although the white will be an issue)

What if it's on a treadmill?

It IS about momentum. AND energy and wind resistance and air density and temperature, atmospheric pressure, aerodynamics and gravity.

Yep. Vector Optics Mustang.

This is how my SR and my M14s are set up: Stops you having to lean the gun and is quicker to get back on the scope when you need to.

The big issue with canted sights is that the hop will fire the BB off to the left if you lean the gun over. That said, I have canted irons on my SR25k and I've had reasonable results with a canted Docter/RMR style sight too. Personally I run a Vector Optics Sphinx on the top of my LPVO and that works well.

If you're going down the X800 route, look at the X810 instead. They're the newer model, I have a pair and they are really pretty good (even without a fan).

I'd say that is too heavy for 1j and a good old prommy purple. 0.28 tops for that (IMO)

Look up AIPSC, see if there's any events near you.

I'm saying nothing.

Titans have an issue with cheaper/low TPA motors. They may have changed this with later firmwares as the Asters I have don't seem to suffer the same problems. AB is best turned off if you can and use the bare minimum you actually need, but as far as the Titans go, use better motors (I replaced mine with an ASG Ultimate CNC 28000 and it's been fine ever since).

Then I would say use what you already have, set the hop and see if it's good enough. Don't worry about what other people use because it may well not work the same for you.

What pistol? Is it stock? Does it hop well? All these things have more effect than purely the BB weight and where you play. Personally, I use 0.28 in my pistol because that's what I have in my AEGs (mostly). My TM HK45 with a crazy jet barrel and Maple Leaf hop flings them with remarkable range and accuracy. My standard M9A1 that I haven't even set the hop in yet....not so much.

We've all been there! Just FYI, they're not as bad as they used to be but if you use a lot of AB the carbon build up in the motor can make the Aster (although more prevalent with the Titan) lose the motor again. They tend to prefer using higher TPA motors.

Two questions - did you re-shim it and what sort of motor is it? Initial impressions are that the motor connector might be damaged or loose, so check that.

Good point, well presented. Does it do it with a 7.4v battery?

When you shimmed the gearbox, did you make sure that the sector gear cam is still reliably being seen by the Aster sensor? It may be a bit borderline.

What have you set up on the Aster? Is there precocking on semi?

Good bot!

I've got a couple like that, they're clearly made of assembled parts but just refuse to come apart.

According to this the end cap should screw off. You may just have to apply some heat to the tube or just y'know....brute force. https://imgur.com/a/iITkH