Lozart

If you want the licenced bits then you have to pay the piper. Does it make it a better AEG? Obviously not.

I used to ride a LOT. Then work took over and I got old and fat and horribly unfit. SO now I want to get back out on my trusty steed but lo and behold - sitting in a shed for 15ish years doesn't do a bike any favours. I'm thinking I could (much like pretty much all my airsoft guns) upgrade some bits but it seems that the entire market has moved on apace in my absence. My bike comes from a time when it was all about cross country riding. It has a tiny frame and a long whippy seatpin, loads of anodised titanium frippery and a mix of groupsets that seem to have have gone the way of the Dodo. So my question is - what would the equivalents be now? Said parts: Shimano STX RC (front and rear mechs) Shimano LX (crankset, chainrings, cassette) Shimano XTR (Rapidfire SL shifters and V-Brakes) Shimano XT SPDs (although they are almost definitely responsible for the pain in my knees so probably swapping them for an unused set of Time ATAC pedals I have) Wheels are good old 26" Bontrager BCX3 rims with Panaracer Smoke and Dart tyres (the beige ones without any carbon because light = good) Frame is a triple butted 16" Reynolds STEEL (yes, steel) frame that literally nobody seems to make anymore, which is a shame because I like a bit of flex in my frame. Rockshox Quadra 21r forks. Inform me oh wise denizens of the web!

I have a 62cm melon too and the aforementioned XL FMA Ops Core is tight (the PJ regular cut one is good but the SF High cut and the Maritime are tight). The XL FMA Wendy bump helmet on the other hand is a lovely fit! I think it's as much to do with the actual helmet shape as it is the size though so obviously, YMMV.

I like you, you're funny!

Hi and welcome. Never scrimp on eye protection. Those are a cheap knock off of Bolle x1000 goggles. Personally I'd suggest you spend a bit more and buy the Bolle ones.

You're the kind of guy that makes it rain by washing your car, aren't you?

As an STR stock enjoyer, you won't fit any half decent battery in the "storage" parts of the stock. As mentioned above you'll be limited to something that fits in the stock tube, additionally, they're like rocking horse poop in the airsoft realm unless you spunk the cash on a real one. The pistol grip...there are some half decent ones by E&C if you can find them in stock, the old PTS Magpul kit is in the realms of scouring ebay as they are LOOONG out of production. The PTS EPG grips are sort of reminiscent of them but they're not really that close. Decent grips though.

Let us know what they're like. I sweat like a paedophile in Mothercare when I wear a helmet so anything to make life better is good!

Do you just want to replace the handguard or do you want to ditch the front sight and delta ring as well?

I managed to miss that entire debacle because I dropped most of my FB airsoft pages. Sounds like it was amusing though.

I'm not sure that a cheap Chinese knockoff ACOG even has a prism (happy to be proven wrong).

Right, if you're after a "normal" rate of fire and using 18:1 gears (which is what will be in the gun to start with by the way), you won't be running the gun so fast as to be experiencing the issue in that video. (for anyone else https://youtu.be/2vRmh9UTsSU?si=nHgoCniiX9LoE5ve ) Hop up you can do whenever, it isn't going to affect things like trigger response and rate of fire. It may well affect your power because the Maxx hop units are notorious for fitment and alignment issues and may need a different nozzle to match up with it. I'd say either do it first before you fuck about with the gearbox and see if it works OK with the nozzle or do it AFTER the gearbox so as not to introduce a problem that may throw you off something wrong with your tappet timing. I'd do etu first, then the motor, then the gears IF it needs it.

Yes....and no. The issues with pre-engagement will still be there if the gears are cycling too quickly, adding a delay to it won't help. In answer to your "what should I use" question, have you actually tried it with the stock gears and the 11.1v battery yet? Do that, swap the motor for the brushless and try it again. If it's still not quick enough, try a set of 16:1 gears (preferably a decent set like XT or SHS). Make sure you shim the gearbox properly or you risk it failing. Don't just throw the bits all in at the same time because if you run into a problem, you won't know what caused it. Go slowly and change one thing at a time. With the best will in the world, you are unlikely to turn a £150 rif into a £400 one by throwing loads of cheap parts at it, but you will (hopefully) learn how a gearbox works and have some fun along the way. Just don't set your expectations too high and you'll be fine.

It definitely looks pissed, but from those pics, so does your front sight. It's possible that taking a few hard knocks may have shifted the glass. Is that as far across as the adjustment will let it go?

Rate of fire control on a Mosfet just adds a delay into the cycle time, it doesn't affect the speed of the motor.

He means that it's all going to run very quickly and likely suffer from pre-engagement resulting in the gearbox shitting itself quite rapidly. What are you hoping to achieve? What is your desired end result? Also - how much experience do you have with working on AEG gearboxes? It looks like the BJX gears you've bought are for a gel blaster, not an airsoft gun. Alloy piston is a mistake. The Maxx hop unit tracer connects to the motor terminals for the tracer. If you do that it may well cause an issue with the mosfet and will almost definitely cause an issue with a brushless motor.

You're absolutely right about the evolution of how people consume their info but with more and more social media platforms cracking down on firearms and replicas it'll be interesting to see how things develop. Personally, I really like the forum format and I would hope we'd see a swing back to that but I'm not sure that generations raised on social media will want that.

And with UCP tape too

If you're planning to gut it and slap a bunch of spangly bits in to raise the FPS then I'd say get a Cyma 701b and buy the upgrades you want. If you really want a shorter barrel and suppressor to get the same look as a G spec then there's plenty of parts out there to replicate that.

Like this you mean?

Don't get me wrong, I want one and if it comes with the reciprocating barrel then happy days!

Because it would be horrifically complicated and likely to break? Yes it would be great but would you rather have a functioning gun or a broken wall hanger?

From the conversation I had with him about the M-LOK rails, the G&G is closer to the WE in dimensions.

Wow! His shell ejecting Lynx is pretty wild but this is cool!

Really don't know why they call this stuff Kaizen foam. If anything it should be Poka-Yoke foam.