Lozart

Unfortunately this is literally a Maxx hop unit in a pretty frock with a prefitted R-hop. The ad isn't really Macks worthy to me though, because it IS an expensive product. It's just that the product itself is a bit of a rip off to start with.

You'll want to post them in the Classifieds section, but you will most likely need to meet a minimum post count before you'll be allowed to.

If you're on that there Facebook, come join the Airsoft M14 group. I have a Cyma railed sight mount going spare if it's any good for you, as far as low profile mounts go, about the only easy(ish) to get hold of ones are the G&P copies of the ARMS #18 mount, but even then you'll be buying from China if you can find stock. You'll no doubt be totally unsurprised that this question has been asked before! I have this one on my Cyma M14, Seal Airsoft are pretty reliable and they seem to have them in stock too. http://sealairsoft.com/pro_details.php?product_id=861&fbclid=IwAR2IZfWygMy8FYPdkTSRDcy0ULh0HV_NxkGobiNBz41pYlVhZMWEns9o1ng

You absolutely can, but that specific "special edition" of the Maxx hop unit and a barrel, from Umbrella really does cost 220EUR new (which is an absolute piss take, granted, but it is what it is).

They manufacture air-guns, they import airsoft guns. All the Umarex products for airsoft are licenced replicas made by others (VFC and Cyma for example).

That's what she said! Also - the safety should block the trigger.

Nice work dude.

Of course they would. Are you new here or something?

*First of all; brands to buy and brands to avoid, for both batteries and charger? Turnigy are good for both, Nuprol are shit for both (well...pretty much everything in fact) *I see that some come with Deans connectors and some with Mini Tamiya - are the Tamiya ones ok to use or do I have to rewire all of my AEGs? Or use Deans to Tamiya adaptors? Mini Tamiya are perfectly serviceable, Deans are in theory better but it does depend on the quality of the ones you buy and someone will be along in a minute to tell us all that XT60 are in fact God Tier and everyone should have them. *Is the risk of fire and/or catastrophic failure exaggerated under normal/sensible use? Do I really have to keep them in an asbestos bin at the bottom of the garden? Be sensible, use a decent charger and keep them in a LiPo bag. Catastrophic failure is almost always a result of neglect or abuse. Puffing batteries is something to watch out for but if you follow the earlier points then you should be fine. If you notice any getting physically damaged or puffing up then just get rid and replace them, they're really not expensive. *Most of the impetus behind this is that I'd like to be able to get a full day out of one set of batteries (at the moment I'm only getting a bit more than half a day out of stock NiMhs), is this realistic? Entirely depends on how much battery space you have and your playing style. That said, the stock NiMhs that come with guns are almost entirely dogshit. *So far all internals for my AEGs are stock, so I was going to go with 7.4v, perhaps upgrading to 11.1v if I upgrade gun internals later on - is this sensible? Most modern AEGs are fine with 11.1v but lifespan may suffer a bit if you're particularly ham fisted. Older guns would be better on 7.4 until you can beef them up *Any reason not to get the biggest/highest mAh I can fit into the gun? Not really. *Anything else I should know getting into this? Always check the sizes of where you plan to put your battery in your gun BEFORE buying the battery. Just because the website says it'll fit in an M4 stock tube, doesn't mean it'll always fit YOUR M4 stock tube.

Fair do's. Septics seem to be more than happy to pay nasally for HK stuff just so they can "flex on the poors".

Shame they're not relaunching the old Hensoldt type mounts. HKParts have them in stock, I'm assuming you may have ways around ITAR? https://hkparts.net/product/hk-mp5-a2-fixed-stock-german-p169.htm/

FMA by a country mile. I have the FMA one and a good friend has the Emerson. The Emerson one was so uncomfortable that he ended up buying the FMA suspension system separately (because you can) and fitted that to it. As for how long you wear it - YMMV but I have mine on pretty much all day when I do wear it. It also has my comms and goggles mounted to it. Granted the weight is the main consideration but the FMA really doesn't weigh much more (if at all) but the fit IS important. If it's too tight anywhere or the shape of it simply doesn't work with your head then how much it does or doesn't weigh is largely irrelevant.

1.26" https://geissele.com/13-5-super-modular-rail-mk16-m-lokr-ddc.html#:~:text=The Geissele Super Modular Rail,maintain%2C but offers superior rigidity.

If you open up the end of your stock, you should see a screw head down the bottom. That screw is what holds the stock and stock tube on. If you buy a solid stock it should come with a new screw (as it will be considerably longer. You may need a sling plate to fit in the gap as solid stocks often have a little step cut out of the top where it meets the back of the receiver (again, if you pick your stock carefully it may not need that or indeed come with it).

100 players in a shopping mall generates a lot of BBs. You don't need a "pool" of them to slip on.

I wouldn't personally try that with an airsoft kit unless it's a CNC one. The cast monkey metal ones will just crack. Something else to bear in mind is that real pistols like Glocks and 1911s are built fairly loose themselves. Might be worth asking yourself why you think making the slide fit on tighter would in any way improve the pistol before you go ahead and do it.

Consider a helmet (head shots at close range SUCK), maybe a plate carrier instead of a chest rig and definitely a decent facemask. Footwear wise I'd say swap out para boots for a decent set of SWAT/Police type boots (Magnums, Merrell Tactical, that sort of thing); you still want grip so a softer sole makes sense but you don't want to be sliding about on BBs so a decent tread pattern helps, plus ankle support. The walk to respawn will be shorter so you won't need to take the kitchen sink everywhere with you but you may find you end up spamming through WAY more ammo so if anything you might need more mags not less (depending on your gun and how good a shot you are). The length of gun thing is a constant source of argument. I fall in the camp that you just need to learn to maneuvre your weapon, others are all for tiny little barrels (but they often wear lycra and carry big bottles of air about). It kind of depends on the site and how tight it is to move about - I saw an M14 SOCOM used at The Mall way back when (I used an M249 there myself) but it was open enough to not be an issue. I was using MP5s at the weekend and while my MP5K is super easy to move around barriers with, it's not exactly the most accurate thing in the world if the site has anything over a few metres away to shoot at (having a 110mm inner barrel). That said, the lighter the gun, the less quickly you'll tire out because you'll probably be running about more. The main thing is that play should be more dynamic and will certainly require move positive action on the part of the players. One of my pet hates at The Mall was people stacking up on doorways with nobody wanting to be the first man in. Many was the time one or two of us would follow a bang into a room only to find ourselves totally outnumbered because all the rentals were still stood outside. You WILL experience worse hit taking, shorter tempers and overkilling. But you might also have the best day of airsoft ever. CQB has always been very hit or miss for me, the good days are epic, the bad ones are horrible. Oh, and make sure you take PLENTY of water and a towel. You WILL sweat more.

I think the perception is that one BB to the eyeball causes permanent, immediate damage whereas your ears ringing for a bit is "temporary". The thing people don't get is that if you do it enough, it isn't temporary. Neither are the headaches, the lack of sleep and the inability to hear conversation over background noise that comes with hearing loss associated tinnitus. Of course I'm sure some quick witted young spark will pipe up that it's because we're old but my tinnitus started when I was in my 20's (gigs, playing in bands, working in and around factories). I have some, they're...OK. Make sure you get the right size for you otherwise they'll be useless as they keep popping out. I changed to ACS plugs that worked better but now I use Earmor over ear protectors or Howard Leights and they're both way better. As stated though, something is better than nothing!

As someone with permanent tinnitus and the associated hearing loss, 1,000,000% this.

You'll certainly see a difference between mounting at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, let us know what you think though!

As a right handed shooter, I've always mounted my light on the right hand side of my guns. This is mostly because of thing I read about how your opponent will usually aim AT the light pointing at them so if it's outboard of your body then they're less likely to hit you. Seems to work so I stick with it.

As a site, Strikeforce is decent enough and I've had decent times there before. As I said I'm sure I'll go back for private games but not a standard skirmish open day.

First game back in months yesterday, went to Strikeforce CQB for a buddy's birthday. I think I can honestly say it was one of the worst days I've ever played. of the 20 or so of us that went as a group, about 15 left before lunch because things were so bad. As a group we know that if things are getting a bit heated then we'll sit out for a bit and rejoin after. Halfway through the second game after lunch I needed a "breath of fresh air". Went outside to find pretty much the entire remainder of our group outside which I've never seen happen before. So we collectively sacked it off and went to the pub. As for the game itself - a combination of gobby rentals and speedybois that were overkilling every thing they saw move did it for me. Hit taking was so bad that after the first warm up game the marshal briefing the next game had a massive moan about it but it didn't seem to make any difference and nothing more was said about it. Our most reserved member nearly came to blows with a rental that both refused to take hits AND was dumping half a mag into everything. I very much doubt I'll be going back there again (unless it's for a private game).

There's a lot of marketing spiel on their website that shows an exploded view of the motor and mentions the built in ESC, but you're right there's precious little actual information about them. That said there's three parts of fuck all info available from ANY airsoft manufacturer about their motors (or anything else to be honest). I was actually looking for things like the Kv ratings to try and compare RC with airsoft to see if that might also highlight the cost disparity but as you rightly say, there's no info. I think part of the problem is that most airsofters have zero clue about all this kind of stuff (my background is in controls and instrumentation so I have a base knowledge of motors and servos) and really don't care beyond "herp a derp, ARP goes BRRRRRR"!