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Lozart

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Everything posted by Lozart

  1. When I was at peak fitness (a loooong time ago) I used to do three 1 hour cycling sessions on the road and then a good 4 hour freeride at the weekend. Worth a try. Your MTB should be fine for a bit of road riding but of you have particularly knobbly tyres you might want to try some slicks/lower profile tyres.
  2. Seems it's mostly down to running them on 11.1v LiPos. The suggestion is that the higher gauge wiring allows more current to flow than the MOSFET can handle. PAS actually state in the blurb under the Gen 3 guns that you should only use them with 7.4v LiPo batteries and that the better wiring and MOSFET negates the advantages you'd get from an 11.1.
  3. Comedy aside - "Google" is only called that because they were originally going to call the site "Goggle" but misspelled it.
  4. I used Andy Bourne for mine ( http://www.tacticaloptician.co.uk/ ). Lovely chap, glazed an ESS ViceRx insert for me £35 +£5.95 return postage. Personally I wouldn't trust Specsavers to tell me the correct time let alone get my prescription right (simple short sightedness prescription that they have managed to fuck up every time I've used them).
  5. Anyone know if there are 0.25g RED tracer bb's available? All Ican find are the Madbull ones and they're only 0.2g in red...

  6. Nice guns though, buddy of mine has one.
  7. If it's anything like the G&G SCAR-L CQC (and I believe it is) if you buy the standard one you get a long barrel, if you get the light version you get a short barrel with an extender. Either way the inner barrel should be the same length I beleive. The Light version (short barrel) is significantly shorter but the standard is no longer than a standard M4A1, the only difference might be that the RIS extends further (on the T4-18 that is).
  8. So was that the white nub or the black one?
  9. Screw it then, I think I'll stick with an AoE adjustment and the standard gears for now. Thanks for the advice!
  10. Just for info - the gun is running an M95 spring, 7.4V LiPo, NanoAB mosfet, 300mm barrel, SHS piston head, SHS cylinder head and nozzle, standard TM gears, rewired with 1.5mm low resistance wiring and Deans connectors.
  11. Cheers for that guys. Samurai, yes - at one point during a particularly hamfisted reassembly the piston missed the guides and turned a bit hence the marks. Never thought about the grease getting to the hop though, good point! So I'm thinking that maybe this would be a good opportunity to swap out the gears for maybe a 16:1 set to raise the RoF, sorbo pad and AoE adjustment. Would I need anything else to go down that route?
  12. Friend of mine has one - fantastic bit of kit!
  13. As some of you may know I have an old TM M4A1 that has become Triggers Tactical Broom. The guts and outers have pretty much all been changed over the last few months in a seemingly endless chase to get the thing working better than it was stock (230fps, 3 parts of f-all range). When it was finally all together I loaned it to a buddy who used it for half a day before it jammed. Despite my protestations that once it had jammed he should maybe stop pulling the trigger, several exploratory bursts of auto were forced upon the poor thing. Stripped down once again it seemed to merely be a BB stuck in the hop. I cleared it, tried again and the same thing happened so I ordered a new rubber (Prommy soft) which I installed tonight. Nice. All went back together nicely and so to test firing. A few single shots came out very nicely thank you so a burst of auto was called for. THRAAAAP! THHRAAAAAAAAP! Cool. One more for luck - THRRAAAAcccgghhhhh cghghhhhhhhh cjhghhhhhhhhh. Bugger. One spectacularly chewed piston. So - to avoid this tale of woe in the future, what do I need to do? New piston (obvs) but what else? The gun is running a 7.4v LiPo, standard gears, original motor and a Nano AB mosfet. Do I need to worry about AoE or just get a new piston with all metal teeth? Please also bear in mind that this is the ORIGINAL TM piston, the gun was already 10+ years old when it got to me! What say you AFUK massive?
  14. SCAR-L or H (VFC, G&G or TM recoil depending on your budget) Actually the H doesn't take M4 mags....sorry about that.
  15. Aren't we just drifting into cosplay here?
  16. You're welcome, I went through this very voyage of discovery fitting a Magpul MOE hand guard to my TM M4A1. Anything else you need pointers on just ask! While I think of it - don't forget to thread the battery wires through the delta ring BEFORE you put it all together. Voice of experience.
  17. First things first - does the Marui Delta Ring have teeth or just a couple of lugs? I'm going to assume the latter and say that you'll need a new Delta Ring. You're probably going to need a new handguard cap too as the plastic one on the TM is too bulky to fit around the front end of the new guard. http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/king-arms-delta-ring http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/kingarms-handguard-cap Once you have those, you'll need to remove the old delta ring which can be a bit fiddly due to the three part design of the inner barrel - you'll need to remove the small hex hed screws that hold sthe barrel together to get the nut off. You'll also need an armorers wrench to fit the new one properly. http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/guarder-extra-heavy-duty-armorers-wrench You may also need a small washer to help fit the hand guard cap - the TM one is held in place by a tiny screw in the back face of the sight, the hole for a similar screw in the KA cap is much bigger!
  18. If your battery is wired reverse you're still going to have issues when you try and connect it to the gun! Better to just make sure you get it the right way around in the first place and probably safest to get the wiring done with Deans as they seem to share a common wiring standard!
  19. No worries, let us know how you get on.
  20. I would reply with "what...you don't know what this loadout is? Hmmmm...." and walk away.
  21. Review is done! http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/20839-sls-type-drop-leg-holster-from-taiwanguncom/
  22. I recently purchased a Safariland SLS6004 style holster for my M9A1 with tactical light as the Viper adjustable one I was using just wasn't secure enough considering the weight of the gun. The product can be found here: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/sls-type-leg-holster-for-beretta-92-black-acm and is spectacularly cheap at a little over £23 plus postage. The holster apes the originals SLS or Self Locking System which is basically the latched hood where a thumb break would normally be. there is a strong and rather stiff leg panel which holds pretty securely using two leg straps. The part of the leg strap that is sticking out to the right in the picture is actually elasticated so it works better than the Viper one just because it holds tighter! The gun itself is a Socom Gear M9A1. It's all metal and is pretty hefty. The torch is a Nextorch WL10 which is a pretty slim, single cell style torch. The holster will take a Surefire X300 double cell style one as well. The gun fits in quite easily and the top of the slide is held in place quite well by the moulded shape of the holster, front to back (as you look down on the handgrip) though it's quite loose which results in it rattling about like mad when you run. The gun will not fall out as long as the SLS hood is in place but it does make you sound like a tactical maraca! In use, the hood is cleared out of the way by pushing down and forward; there's a little moulded button on the leg side of the hood to help with this. It felt a little clumsy to start with but once you've tried it a few times it's pretty intuitive. The holster needs to sit fairly high though as the bottom corner of the leg panel can cut into the back of your knee if it's worn too low. Overall I'm pretty happy with the holster. It is very sturdy and fits my weapon of choice WITH the torch, it holds securely with the SLS hood and it was let's face it, cheap as chips. I'm going to try lining it with something to lessen the rattling (which may just be down to my choice of torch not filling the space) but other than that, it's so good I'll be selling the Viper one!
  23. You could try lubing the little catch by the BB tube, it may just be a bit sticky from what you've just described. Sounds like the tolerances on the magazine just don't quite match up with the M4 to me though. I'd say, next time you're at a game ask some people if they would mind you test firing a few shots with their mag. Either that or try the same in your local shop. That's how I ended up with Dytac Invaders for my M4!
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