Lozart

Worst is pretty easy - Socom Gear M9A1. Rattled like a bag of spanners, mostly vented gas at random points through any given mag. No discernable accuracy. Looked nice though. Best for out of the box range and accuracy has been my Cyma M14 SOCOM. Whether it stays that way remains to be seen, repairs are underway after my tactical tumble. Overall best though is probably my Specna SA-A03. Bought it bloody ages ago when SA were a new thing and still OEM'd by E&C. It has one of the old red Maxx hop units with the tracer bits, ML rubber and a ZCi barrel, and a Gate Titan with an Ultimate Infinity 30k motor. Anything else is cosmetic but it's been ridiculously reliable, decent range and good accuracy.

OK, yes I was a little simplistic there but to be brutally honest, once you get over about 200mm (ish) barrel length doesn't make that much difference for something like an M4. 10" is a good sweet spot in that it's long enough to be reasonably accurate but not so long as to be cumbersome. 5" will likely suffer from the Stormtrooper effect (where you'll hit literally everything around what you're trying to hit but not the actual target) unless you're doing super close CQB type games. In terms of power difference, you'll probably notice more of an issue if you went from a full length 14.5" (363mm inner) right down to a 5" (pointless inner) than between a 7 and a 10 for example. As long as you're not hugely over or under voluming (ie matching the cylinder type to your barrel length) you'll be fine. Main things to be thinking about is the quality of the bore in your inner barrel and the consistency of your hop unit/nub/bucking combination.

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Yes You're welcome. Loz

If you look at where the adjusters are it looks like it's the outer cover that's wonky. Sight itself seems to be sat properly.

Pretty sure the only people still selling the old school CA stuff are in HK. Not sure CA even make that much old school stuff any more.

Any particular reason why you want to change it?

Short stroking a DMR? No.

Sounds like it might but I couldn't say for certain.

*ahem* Obligatory post of the thread of all threads

This is about the closest I've seen: https://www.evike.com/products/27400/ The original is the Strike Industries AR Enhanced Castle Nut & Extended End Plate for reference.

Cheers dude, just found them at KoA!

Where did you manage to get the Lonex helical gearset from? They seem to be like the proverbial rocking horse poo!

Hate to say it but it's probably both. Gas efficiency on the 1911 isn't great, coupled with the small mag means that when it gets in any way cold they can struggle. There's things you can do like high flow valves, aftermarket gas routers etc etc but it depends how much more you want to spend on a gun that's not great to start with.

The gun is not a Hi Capa, it's a 1911 with a fancy slide.

No, there's no way to rotate the reticule on these sights. If it's off, send it back.

Might just give that a try!

Your contract of sale is with the retailer, if there is a warranty issue and the manufacturer has authorised that retailer to act on their behalf then yes. If not the retailer will have to operate under the conditions of the warranty as stated by the manufacturer. If that warranty states that the warranty is void if anyone not authorised by them to work on their products opens the guns up then they are supposed to send it back.

There's a few but the question is whether or not you trust them to do that for you. It'll void any sort of warranty the manufacturer has straight off the bat for one.

Seems I may have answered my own question! I'm going to leave this thread up though as it may help others; scopecalc.com lets you put in your scopes info and then maps out the brightness etc using flash player (so you'll need an emulator but there's some good plugins around for chrome). Basically it would seem that at any magnification I'm likely to use the two perform pretty much the same in terms of light transmission and usable image but (as suspected) the one with the larger objective gives a better size of image. Pics below for the rest of the nerds here! linky to calculator

As some of you will know I drop tested my M14 and royally borked my scope. The one I had isn't sold anymore (Victoptics 1-4x24 First Focal Plane) and its nearest equivalent is way more than I paid for mine in the first place (inflation, eh? What ya gonna do? etc). So that has led me into a bit of a rabbit warren of technical nerdery looking at similar scopes that fit my current budget (around £100 ish and no, I'm not looking for "buy a Visionking they am bestest" as a response). The bit I'm confounded by is when I start getting into eye relief, exit pupil, twilight factor and relative brightness; one scope I've seen is 1-6x24 and has a TF of 12 and RB of 16 at max magnification, the other is 1-4x20 and has a TF of 9 and an RB of 25 at max. Now, the thing is that in both cases the bigger the number is, the better the image will be but as the two scopes are the opposite way around on both, which is better - a higher twilight factor (given that I mostly play woodland and even on a bright day tree cover reduces the light level somewhat) or better relative brightness? I've usually gone down the route that a bigger objective is always better but it's the smaller one that seems to have a brighter image in this case. Anyone have any insight?

I have a TLBV-E in my collection of manky old kit. While the mag pouches will fit two STANAG mags, most PMAG types are so snug as to make it almost pointless plus the baseplates effectively prevent any double stacking in the top two pouches (same goes for STANAGs with Magpuls). The cord locks on the stringy side pieces are also about as much use as a chocolate fireguard and break quite easily (spares can be found in the dark recesses of ebay if you look carefully though). Highly advise either tying the cords in a knot under the lock or taping them up.

HPA cycles faster IF you set it up to do that. I've also seen plenty of high ROF guns with batteries. If the BBs are flying faster then it's more likely that whoever was firing them was using heavier ammo (it retains more energy for longer), that doesn't automatically mean that the FPS was too high. Some of my guns do 1J, some of them do more (most of them are around 1.1ish, my DMR does around 1.5J). You missed the point though - 1J is 1J regardless of whether it's an AEG, HPA, GBB or a springer. The issue is NOT the system but the user and the people that police those rules at the site. You're right, you shouldn't have to find a different site but if that specific site attracts the type of player that is going to repeatedly cheat and the marshals aren't addressing it then you have two choices, put up with it or go elsewhere. Like the man said, nut up or shut up.