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I'm sure OP appreciates your feedback guys, but you're really not answering his question. Do you have a rail already on there? Which model of the CM16 do you have? Some have the delta ring you'll need whilst some do not. If you're looking for something cheap and cheerful, then try here - two things though: Despite what that website says, these are not PTS products and are certainly not Magpul licensed - they are knock-offs and will likely not include the trade marks shown in the pictures. I know because I've bought other things from them. They're good quality and very cheap and I'd echo what the other two said: Don't overspend on a G&G CM16. If you want to spend £50 on a rail then put it towards some internal upgrades or something new You will need the delta ring to fit it. Your CM16 may already have one but it may not. An image will help us identify this If not, you're looking at a lot of money for a PTS one (over £30 I'd imagine). Remember, you can't buy PTS Magpul stuff very easily anymore as it was discontinued a while ago. You can buy the real steel stuff, but that's even more dosh and you'll also need a milspec delta ring (which won't fit on an AEG without rethreading the receiver). Edit Here's what the delta ring looks like:

TM G18c GBB objectively best pistol ever made.

My opinion of EBB or non-blow back AEPs is they're very functional, but they're just not as fun as GBBs.

If you can change the spring at all though then do it - it's a much more stable long-term solution. PDI do springs for about £10 each and they last ages - you can quite easily work out which spring is going to give you what output too.

Er, 455mm is the length man not the width (if that's what you mean) so it wouldn't effect the hop compatibility. If you mean 'will the hop window be compatible' then yes, it is. It'll stick out the end by 15mm but like Monty says, but that's not a problem as the flash hider will conceal it. 6.01 will give you a negligible FPS increase, but a wider bore will give you better accuracy and allow a more consistent hop. If you're happy with the FPS of your stock one then go with the 6.03. Also, it'll be slightly less prone to jams.

Basically it's a CO2/HPA conversion kit for many different bolt action sniper rifles. Shizbaski posted a video he made just this evening: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28004-tm-vsr-10-mancraft-mod-guide/ Here's the site too: http://shop-mancraft.com/en/

But before you do that, have you removed and lubed it?

Gas sniper rifles are naff in general. You'd be better buying a springer and putting a Mancraft SDiK in it.

I'd say even less. It takes expensive equipment to product them in such bulk for such a small market and I can't imagine too many companies are happy with their machines sitting idle for more than a few hours at a time.

As far as I'm concerned, any airsoft company that has to spend as much on advertising as Nuprol is taking that out of the budget somewhere - they're never going to be as good as some other brands that don't take out placements in magazines, on websites etc. in such a small market. During my adventure to find heavyweight tracer BBs earlier this year, I spoke directly with some distributors and one of the representatives said they were actually in Europe at the time talking with companies. One month later Nuprol .28g and .30g tracers pop up. This was a rep from Yuanjun - they make fairly average BBs according to the reviews. Now I know that it takes longer than a month to get a product like this to market, but the fact that they were the only manufacturer openly advertising 0.28g and 0.30g tracers is enough to make me wonder where these BBs are being sourced. They're a pretty specialist product, and I'd wager there are only a handful of companies making them - maybe Nuprols are simply a rebrand. It certainly wouldn't be the first time in airsoft. That said, their tracers seems fine and some of their stuff is alright but they're never going to compete with some of the other stuff out there

Don't exist above .25g

I've bought the Nuprol .30g tracers and they seem to feed fine. Like you say though, they seem to vary a bit batch-to-batch.

If you're new then electric is going to be easier to maintain and will perform much better on a far lower budget.

From where?

Bit of a bump but I got up far too early this morning and did this - had to wait until not to give it a proper test. The results are good but the finish isn't. It lights up BBs very well: It shines on maybe the 3rd or 4th BB from the hop chamber, so they stay pretty well lit.

If that's the case then AFAIK: Put orange tips on (buy them there and bring them over) Declare them (duh) Cover up any trades with RTV or customs in the US may file them off (especially Glock stuff)

No need to lengthen the hop window unless you want to shoot over ~.35g - an R-Hop will lift everything between .25g to .35g - you'll likely need a mill or a very steady set of hands and a Dremel to lengthen the window and it's not worth it.

Heavily simplified, there are two things that contribute towards heavier BBs 'going faster' in the same barrel with the same amount of air: a. Stays in the barrel slightly longer - more time for the air to act on the BB resulting in more energy transfer and a higher muzzle velocity. b. The energy a heavy projectile has decays slower dduring flight than a lighter one with the same amount of energy when it leaves the barrel. Therefore, a target further away will feel a lot more of the energy - this is one of the key contributors towards the hate HPA and GBBR users get as heavier ammunition has the impression of hitting you harder than it should. The fact is that most AEGs are running .20g and .25g and they decay quicker. E.g. If you were to stand right infront of the barrel of one gun firing a .20g at 350fps, and one firing .43g at 265fps they would feel the same (both ~1.14J). If you were to get hit from 30m away by those two same guns then - despite them having the same energy when they leave the barrel - the .43g will have more energy than the .20g when it reaches you.

None with your usual HPA rig, but DGs need much better airflow and the bore of the line is decreased significantly at any quick detach point. It'll knock down your RPS and FPS (probably trigger response as well). It's recommended strongly by the distributor to get a single QD.

You're welcome. Only issue I can spot is that Firebase is a double QD - like I said, you want a single QD (i.e. no QD on the regulator; just on the line that goes into your grip/stock etc.). Ask them if they can fit a single QD and remove the one on the regulator itself if you're going for a DG.

Yeh, it won't hop at all if installed properly, however if you have the proper nub set up then when you do turn it on it has about 3 times the surface area of a standard hop - even at next to nothing it's going to skyrocket .25s. It can be done, but one must remember that a heavier projectile will conserve energy more efficiently during flight. Even with the a good amount of spin, a .25g isn't likely to be going more than 40 metres.

The ORGA Magnus 6.32 is brilliant - would highly recommend. I'm using the 500mm one. The Prometheus Delta Strike 6.20 is also alright, but its plastic hop window was a bit of a silly decision by them. It was meant to make installing flat hops and R-Hop patches easier by allowing modification of the window and better adhesion to RTV (the gasket sealant you're meant to use with the patches) but in the end it just wears a bit quicker. I'm using it in my M4 right now (I think ~450mm) and it seems to be fine. To get an EV R-Hop in there you will need to lengthen the hop window. Even if you do that, you would severely over-hop a .25g; this is the exact problem I had with my M4 DMR and had to switch up to .30g - I'd say that's the minimum for any R-Hop really but I know some would disagree with me. I'd recommend just a regular R-Hop patch and .30s. if it's a DMR then you won't be going through much ammo anyway, right? As for power, there's not a huge amount you can do with a GBBR but the GHK mags should be putting out enough gas anyway - if you have an NPAS installed then you can quite easily get that thing up to just shy of 500fps on a stock barrel. I'm using the GHK gen 2 M4 magazines and they can certainly put out enough power with the NPAS tuned correctly. Edit Changed some fings

TNK Guns has been around for years now fortunately. They never closed, but the old distributor in the US had a falling out with the manufacturers - Tony assembles them himself though from the milled parts from Asia now AFAIK. It's also worth noting that as it's made of steel, aluminium and brass that they have not been known to break anywhere but the o-rings, crush rings and bucking (which can be obtained easily). Your 62/3000 won't last anywhere near as long on a DG unfortunately. Lots of air is needed to cycle the bolt even on just the rifle kits - you need to be running at about 100-110psi on most kits to put out 350fps. On a typical Polarstar/SMP that would give you over 400 if I'm correct? Here's the FB page.

Probably not. The hop, barrel etc. would be the wrong size for a start.

You're welcome. You'll have plenty of time to think about it and make sure you come to the right decision on the M200. As far as starter guns go, many would recommend the G&G CM16. Only £150 as a package and very tough - worth a look for when you get that UKARA sorted. Again though, you'll be able to form your own opinions from seeing others people's stuff up close and having handled some of the sites rental equipment or trying out others (people are generally more than happy to let you have a go with their stuff).