proffrink

I got a UTG ITA - it's zeroable, very bright, clear, cheap and rated for real steel so it's your best bet if it's going on a DG. Usually the blowback kills anything made for airsoft. Should work with a magnifier too if you use the included low mount. There are a couple of video reviews out there to take a look at if you're bothered. Holosun also make great near-replicas of the T1 and others if that's a look you're into.

Think you're right - the US frame (which is the one most people buy for some reason).

rekd

I could turn up as a grammar Nazi. That other chap did and he got a whole thread made about him.

No, they won't. VCRA covers the purchase and not ownership. Also you surely know by now that UKARA isn't the only form of defence anyway, right? Quick questions thread may be more suitable for this sort of stuff in the future by the way.

Everything is an M4 unless it's a bullpup or has wooden nature. I think that's just about anyone that buys anything Ares by the way: 1-3 months Wow this thing looks and shoots great. 3-6 months Wow this thing looks great. 6-12 months *sold*

I'm not the one who's admitting to having other men's crotches in their crosshairs. Goddamnit man. Nightmares or dreams?

Saucy

Disassemble, clean, lube and reassemble. Sounds like the hammer isn't resetting when you shoot so it's either a displaced spring, dirt trapping it or broken altogether. There are loads of disassembly guides online so take a couple of hours and have a look at it for yourself - identifying the broken part should be simple once you compare it to that from a video. Other than that you could send it off, but either way getting to the hammer in any of the MP7s requires significant disassembly. It's not hard if you're patient, but will be a little frustrating the first time.

B-b-but the question was answered already.

Here: http://lmgtfy.com/ Gives you a link. Use the URL shortener to get a link that isn't immediately obvious to the victim.

If that's the excuse we're going with then. 7/10.

I'm sorry

Best go make a thread then

Yeh, I just mean to watch your FPS - an NPAS should be fine. I'm just thinking of a lot of CO2 pistols that shoot far too hot and get CO2 banned for everyone. By and large they should be, but you've not told us what gun you have. The WA system - for example - has some good CO2 magazines out there (like GHK). The bulb should be stored within the magazine so as far as the rest of the gun is concerned it's business as usual.

CO2 if you can do it and it's properly regulated in a decent gun. If not, Nuprol 4.0 and Guarder Powerful as the strongest (I use Guarder Powerful) along with propane. The fact of the matter is your GBBR isn't going to work in the winters here even with the best green gas. Find CO2 magazines or consider HPA. One final thing you can do is buy hand warmers and keep your magazines warm before you fire them; buy decent one-use hand warmers (like MyCoal ones) and not the microwavable kind - one per pouch and they should stay hot for up to 6-7 hours.

Did you order a blank suppressor and they sent you one with markings too?

Last link is messed up.

It'll work fine for sure, but I've not seen it do any better over some of the cheaper stuff like Smart Gas and Pro Gas.

Depends on your budget. http://www.uktactical.com/ and http://www.military1st.co.uk/ are good, but wait for sales on stuff. If you want decent reproductions of carriers and pouches, try Flyye (they're a brand/manufacturer) - best place to buy them is from AliExpress, DHGate or http://store.specwarfare.com For issued kit eBay is usually your best bet as http://www.flecktarn.co.uk/ for new kit used by various militaries. Honestly though the best prices are always gained by someone who Googles for 15 minutes and picks the best option. Edit Also I didn't read your question properly but luckily Jedi did. Sorry.

Wouldn't be that specific. A lot of people seem to find the WE gas fine - I've found it rather expensive for what it is. If you're going the green gas route then Pro Gas or Smart Gas (which can be bought from the continent) are very affordable and perform quite well. If you need more power, you may wish to look into propane, MAPP or something like Nuprol 3, 4 and Guarder Powerful gas. Propane is a good choice if you don't mind the smell as it's cheap and effective.

Oh god, don't get us started. Probably best to use that search function as there are loads of threads about how to power your GBB - propane, green gas (and all the different strengths within that) and MAPP.

If you're concerned about blow back then look into an HPA-rigged Tippmann or maybe even a Daytona Gun (if you have the dosh). Solenoid HPA engines don't have any of that sweet sweet recoil of course.

Hm, see the thing is by design it won't fire with the sear back on auto anyway - the bolt has to knock it out of the way. Your bolt looks fine in those pictures, which still makes me thing the auto sear is to blame (though I can see some fair amount of wear to the hammer there too). Auto sear looks seated correctly, and though I still can't quite see the contact edge it doesn't look too bad. I'm afraid one would have to get their hands on it to help further, so it's looking like you may have to send it off. Hopefully it's just a case of cleaning the lower and/or replacing the hammer and auto sear. Thing is, stock GBBRs aren't meant to last for ever and they're made cheap. That's the main issue I see with people using all these HPA magazines - huge amounts of wear on the internals.

Yeh, it's the auto sear as you've just confirmed. When you push it forwards, it sits in the position it would for semi (i.e. disengaged), so that's why it works again. Usually the bolt would smack that sear forward like you are there, so that could be a culprit too. Either it's damage to the surface of the hammer (not likely as I can kind of see it there) or it's misaligned - as you say - or just very worn. We kind of need to look at the bottom of the auto sear though as that's where it contacts the hammer. Finally, it's also possible some dirt has built up in your selector and is pushing the sear further than it should be. So it could be a case of disassemble, clean and reassemble those two parts or - at worst - a new auto sear (just under £10). It's up to you if you want to try it yourself or get someone else to do it. I will say there are plenty of reassembly guides out there for the selector or and auto sear, but if you've not the time then it may be best to send it to some place like Milspec Solutions (though be ready to pay a fair amount of money). I can't find anything on the compatibility of WA-compatible auto sears with LM4 designs. I'd say they should work, and at most may require a small bit of filing - this could be come a problem if you send it to a professional as not many will keep the OEM parts as specific as this in stock (indeed, I couldn't find anywhere selling an original sear other than the KWA website). If it were me I'd remove the sear and check it for damage. At worst I'd have to replace it later (a little fiddly) and at best I can know where the problem is and then maybe sort out a replacement part myself rather then sending it to someone who's just going to tell you that they need to order the part in and that it's going to take weeks for that to happen. I'll see if I can find anything on WA parts compatibility (because if they work then that's a lot of effort saved). Without that sear the only effect you'll get is that obviously you'll be locked to semi only. Basically: It's either the bolt not pushing that sear forwards when you shoot or the sear is worn or misaligned. Edit Could you take a picture of the underside of your bolt too?